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Us too 1 euro for computer fan and just a switch .I went down the DIY route using KISS principal
2 x computer case fans and an ON/Off switch.. less than £10 .. when it's hot, I switch on, when cold I switch off.. simples
I had 2 Brunner kits, they both packed up within a few weeks. I bought a CBE kit, works great and almost silent, as opposed to the Brunner fans ...........
This is a video of my second Brunner fan kit which developed the same fault as the first one
They were bought 2 years apart
It isn't 12v out that you need - it's simply the permanent 12v feed to the fridge. There are two 12v feeds to the fridge: one that appears only when the engine is running; and one that is there all the time to work the fridge control panel, gas igniter, etc. One exception is an input from solar panels on some vans but it's not common. So if you check wiring coming into the fridge from the vehicle the wire with 12v on it is the one you want.Can you tell me which is the 12v out position on the P-860 control on back of fridge?
Ours looks like this (didn’t come with a cover)
View attachment 248136
The problem with that is I understand that that was never meant to take much load and the wiring was thin. I was lucky and found a 12V circuit feeding the additional 12V outlets that I had put in by the dealer, and was able to tap into that.It isn't 12v out that you need - it's simply the permanent 12v feed to the fridge. There are two 12v feeds to the fridge: one that appears only when the engine is running; and one that is there all the time to work the fridge control panel, gas igniter, etc. One exception is an input from solar panels on some vans but it's not common. So if you check wiring coming into the fridge from the vehicle the wire with 12v on it is the one you want.
The problem with that is I understand that that was never meant to take much load and the wiring was thin. I was lucky and found a 12V circuit feeding the additional 12V outlets that I had put in by the dealer, and was able to tap into that.
It sounds as if your fans are blowing towards the fridge. The risk is probably low but if the top vent and flue were obstructed, say by snow or leaves fumes could be blown into the vehicle. The fridge installation should be draught proofed but it won't be gas tight I suspect. Fans should be on "suck" not "blow".I fitted a CBE system last week. I have not really had a need for it but found it in the cupboard where it had been since I removed it from my N&B. The difference between the vans being Morelo fit the upper vent more like chimney on the roof of the van. This appears to be far more effective at reducing heat build up which makes sense given hot air naturally rises and will escape through the chimney. However, I thought it would do no harm to fit anyway given I have it. I have fitted it slightly above the bottom inlet vent in the hope it will suck more cool air in from the vent and help the natural flow out through the roof. I did not bother running the controller into the van. It is sitting inside the front cover set on auto min. Its not a hard job to remove the vent cover if I ever want to switch it to manual.
I also hooked into the 12 volts which was available on one of the connection blocks.
the Dometic fan kit is that.. the fan is fitted to the back on the fridge 2/3 down and sucks cold air in through the bottom vent and blows the air over the fins and out via top ventIt sounds as if your fans are blowing towards the fridge. The risk is probably low but if the top vent and flue were obstructed, say by snow or leaves fumes could be blown into the vehicle. The fridge installation should be draught proofed but it won't be gas tight I suspect. Fans should be on "suck" not "blow".
Thanks, I guess they know what they are doing.the Dometic fan kit is that.. the fan is fitted to the back on the fridge 2/3 down and sucks cold air in through the bottom vent and blows the air over the fins and out via top vent
Oh lets not be too sure of that, if they made fridges fit for purpose you would't need to fit a fanThanks, I guess they know what they are doing.
This appears to be far more effective at reducing heat build up which makes sense given hot air naturally rises and will escape through the chimney. However, I thought it would do no harm to fit
As above. Compressor fridges should not have a problem.So if everyone here has fitted fans are your fridges really all complete crap ?
Ours has been totally useless in the recent warm weather (I say warm as I have lived in Spain)
If the fridges don't work in the UK I bet the European owners Feckin love theirs
The thinnest of thin wire on a hot thin day would happily drive the fans we're discussing. Wire too thin to supply them isn't easily available .The problem with that is I understand that that was never meant to take much load and the wiring was thin. I was lucky and found a 12V circuit feeding the additional 12V outlets that I had put in by the dealer, and was able to tap into that.
I have a 0.5 amp fuse protecting mine and that is running two fans.The thinnest of thin wire on a hot thin day would happily drive the fans we're discussing. Wire too thin to supply them isn't easily available .
It sounds as if your fans are blowing towards the fridge. The risk is probably low but if the top vent and flue were obstructed, say by snow or leaves fumes could be blown into the vehicle. The fridge installation should be draught proofed but it won't be gas tight I suspect. Fans should be on "suck" not "blow".
I think in our old Swift the guy fitting the fridge actually died doing it as he collapsed he just threw it in with his dying breath ! RIP you TosserGood point which has got me thinking. When I was installing the fans I did think to myself that the quality of the fridge installation was far better than I had seen in any of my other vans. I have no way of telling if the area is gas tight but got me thinking if the manufacturer uses the roof type vent if the spec needs to be higher for the eventuality you mention.
I'm not too concerned about the fan causing issues be it blowing or sucking due to the fan being set at 32 Degrees to kick in, so the chances of the fan running and having snow on the roof simultaneously are highly unlikely. Thank you for pointing it out, got me thinking a little about the differing quality of installation.
Ours works fine. It does need a good 24hrs to get cold, but it keeps the fridge cold and freezer box frozen in 32c. It does appreciate shade on that side, though, which is fine as its the same side as the hab door and awning, so is usually the shader side if that makes sense. Tis a new one, though, so wonder if there's some loss of efficiency in either the cooling gubbins or the insulation as they get older??So if everyone here has fitted fans are your fridges really all complete crap ?
Ours has been totally useless in the recent warm weather (I say warm as I have lived in Spain)
If the fridges don't work in the UK I bet the European owners Feckin love theirs
Ours works fine. It does need a good 24hrs to get cold, but it keeps the fridge cold and freezer box frozen in 32c. It does appreciate shade on that side, though, which is fine as its the same side as the hab door and awning, so is usually the shader side if that makes sense. Tis a new one, though, so wonder if there's some loss of efficiency in either the cooling gubbins or the insulation as they get older??
Our brand new Dometic is struggling in temperature lower than that , only fridge we have had in a van that really works was in the rv that would freeze a leg of lamb from chilled .Don't think age has anything to do with it. Its more an issue with product design limits. Basically, the fridge looses efficiency as the temperature increases and really struggles as the temperature hits the mid 30s' Fitting fans help and makes the fridge cooling process more efficient. I have had a number of Dometic and a couple of Thetford fridges all from new and have all struggled in the temperatures discussed.