Autotrail Cheyenne 544 1996 - battery draining somehow and question on switch panel (1 Viewer)

[AmandaC]

Hi All,

I'm new to the forum. I am fortunate to have a Autotrail Cheyenne 544 1996 in fantastic condition.

I am hoping that someone here has owned this make and model and can help me with the correct switch positions to avoid a flat battery or some advice or why the battery might be draining.

The van didn't come with the original manual and I have checked to see if it exists online, unfortunately it doesn't. Picture of the control panel is attached.

The previous owner advised - ensure that on the control panel I set the MAIN/AUX switch to MAIN for driving and parking at home /on a site.
He'd never had a problem with the battery going flat.

I've been doing this and finding that the battery goes flat and the van then won't start.
Either needing a jump start or even worse a full charge from a battery charger.

I had the van habitation checked and the fella who did it advised - set the MAIN/AUX switch to AUX for parking at home /when on the sites.
He thought that having the MAIN/AUX switch on MAIN when parked is the source of the draining battery.

So I have tried this way hoping this would work however my battery is flat again.

When I am parked at home /on a site I am always hooked up to the electric, I don't do wild camping. I make sure that I turn the van lights off, any internal lights off etc.

Any advice gratefully on the switches or how to work it why the battery is draining.

I plan to travel alone and whilst I have a set of jump leads with me this is a bit of a worry. Last year I was very fortunate to find one man on the campsite who didn't have an electric car and who could help me jump start the van. It would be better if I could find the root cause and resolve it.

Many thanks
Amanda

 

[pappajohn]

When on hookup switch to aux.
Main is engine battery
Aux is habitation battery.
It is possible the hab battery is past it's best and needs replacing.

 

[AmandaC]

Thank you pappajohn. When driving what should I set it to?

 

[GeoffnDee]

You may find the information you require if you google Plug-in-Systems who supplied the same control to other makes of Motorhomes (without the Autotrail logo) , I think that it should not matter which setting is used when driving , as both batteries should be being charged from the engine , but , as stated , Aux should be used when parked up .
If your starter battery is going flat when parked up , and you are using Aux , it could be that the starter battery is faulty (or needs testing)

 

[AmandaC]

Thank you GeoffnDee

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[AmandaC]

Hi GeoffnDee and pappajohn
I followed your advice of using Aux when parked up, thank you, however unfortunately the battery still went flat. I took it to Halfords for battery testing and they said both the van battery and the leisure battery needed replacing. I have done this, and left it parked on my drive using Aux. However the fridge is set to use the battery (the switch on the fridge) and it wont go cold. If I change the switch from Aux to Main which is what I used to use when parked up, then the fridge gets cold, however this is against your advice of using Aux when parked up and so I am concerned that I might end up with my new van battery being flat again. Why wont the fridge go cold when parked on Aux and the fridge switch is on battery?

 

[rb62]

You should really only run the fridge on 12v when the engine is running and then it will only maintain the temperature.

 

[ChrisL]

It would appear that your fridge only works off the engine battery when set to 12v, it should only be set to this when driving. Most fridges work on gas, 240v or 12v I'm not familiar with your specific vehicle but many have an automatic switch which will automatically select the energy source, so 240v if you're on hookup, gas if you're not and 12v if your driving or if out of gas or it's turned off.

 

[Jev88]

Set to Aux and never move it.

The one exception being on EHU and staying somewhere several days - flick to Main overnight to boost the engine battery.

Sounds like your engine battery is old and tired.

 

[GeoffnDee]

As stated , if your fridge has gas, 12v and 230v operation you should only run the fridge on 12v when the engine is running , use gas setting to run the fridge if not on EHU or 230v setting when on EHU (do you know the make and model of the fridge ? )

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[autorouter]

Your main and aux batteries are probably around 100Ah in capacity. The fridge probably takes at least 10A when it is running. So the fridge will last about 10 hours before the battery is completely flat. This is why fridges are not run from the battery alone. Except maybe on a cross-channel ferry for a couple of hours, when you're not allowed to use gas.

The engine alternator is quite capable of supplying 10A while the engine is running, and there is usually an automatic switch (a relay) that switches it to run from the alternator when the engine starts.

Some fridges need to be switched manually between the different power sources, and some have a control board with Automatic Energy Selection (AES). The AES switches to mains 230V when EHU is connected, or to gas if EHU is not connected and the engine is stopped. If the engine is running, it switches to 12V to run from the alternator. It's a good idea to copy that if your fridge is manual.

 

[AmandaC]

Hello,

To be clear - I have just replaced both the van battery and the leisure battery.

My van is 30 years old. Control Panel on wall and the fridge and its switches shown below.

I'm really sorry this morning my post wasn't correct.

I should have said this:

• parked on my drive and EHU in, using Aux on the control panel, and the fridge switch is set to use the MAINS (the switch on the fridge, the green one) and the fridge wont go cold "
• If I change the control panel switch from Aux to Main, then the fridge gets cold as I need it to be. But leaving it on MAIN is against the advice that I should have that control panel set to Aux when parked up.
• So why wont the fridge go cold when control panel is Aux and the fridge switch is MAINS? That should work right?

I know when I am driving I should put the fridge switch to Battery (the switch on the fridge, the red one) as that

I apologise that my earlier post was incorrect. I am new to this. Thank you for your help

 

[ChrisL]

Hello,

To be clear - I have just replaced both the van battery and the leisure battery.

My van is 30 years old. Control Panel on wall and the fridge and its switches shown below.

I'm really sorry this morning my post wasn't correct.

I should have said this:

• parked on my drive and EHU in, using Aux on the control panel, and the fridge switch is set to use the MAINS (the switch on the fridge, the green one) and the fridge wont go cold "
• If I change the control panel switch from Aux to Main, then the fridge gets cold as I need it to be. But leaving it on MAIN is against the advice that I should have that control panel set to Aux when parked up.
• So why wont the fridge go cold when control panel is Aux and the fridge switch is MAINS? That should work right?

I know when I am driving I should put the fridge switch to Battery (the switch on the fridge, the red one) as that

I apologise that my earlier post was incorrect. I am new to this. Thank you for your help



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It sounds to me like the element for the 240v side has failed, I don't know if spares for these are still available but you may need to take it into a motorhome repair place and ask them. In the meantime I think the attached manual is the correct one for your model if you don’t have one, if yours is a different model let us know and I'll try and find it for you.

 

[rb62]

Similar problem here,might be worth a read,

Auxiliary battery dead?

The question isn't so much, "Is it dead?" as, "Why is it dead?" I thought I had it on charge for the last 24hours, but it seems I had the charger switched off >.< so there's a faint glimmer of hope still but only faint. I could really do with an idiot's guide to camper electrics . . . Don't...

www.motorhomefun.co.uk

 

[GeoffnDee]

I think there may be a mis-understanding regarding using the Aux setting when parked up , meaning parked up (camping) , not on mains power , that is when Aux should be used as the 12v power for lights, water pump etc will then come from the Leisure battery and power will not be taken from your starter battery and gas can be used to operate the fridge . The main setting on the control panel should not be used when not on EHU but could be used, for a very short time off EHU , if your leisure battery goes flat, as an emergency measure , but this would then take power from the starter battery.
When plugged into the mains power supply (EHU) it is correct for the control main switch setting to be used and the fridge 230v switch setting used to run the fridge on 230v and the 12v side of things will also be able to be used as your battery should also be being kept charged up through the battery charger from the 230v supply.
For reference I think your fridge is an Electrolux RM4401 model. and if it is cooling on 230v setting when on EHU its 230v element will be ok.
Hope this all makes sense.

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[ChrisL]

For reference I think your fridge is an Electrolux RM4401 model. and if it is cooling on 230v setting when on EHU its 230v element will be ok.

As has been said it's not working on 230v.

"parked on my drive and EHU in, using Aux on the control panel, and the fridge switch is set to use the MAINS (the switch on the fridge, the green one) and the fridge wont go cold"

 

[GeoffnDee]

It does work (cool) when the Motorhome control panel is switched to main so I think the element must be ok but there is not a 230v supply when on Aux setting , there is a 230v supply and it cools when the Motorhome control switch is set to Main .

 

[ChrisL]

It does work (cool) when the Motorhome control panel is switched to main so I think the element must be ok but there is not a 230v supply when on Aux setting , there is a 230v supply and it cools when the Motorhome control switch is set to Main .

If you look at the wiring diagram in the manual I attached in post #13 you will note that there are separate heating elements for 12v and 230v marked G and C in the diagram, so I still think the 230v element has failed, in any case it would need to be tested, unfortunately it is not a service manual so i've no idea what the resistance should be but if there is no continuity at all then it is definitely fubared. New elements are available on ebay for £25 ish.

 

[autorouter]

unfortunately it is not a service manual so i've no idea what the resistance should be

The mains 230V element should be between 100W and 200W, so its resistance will be between 250Ω and 500Ω.

It's fairly easy (for a technician) to tell if the element has failed. Basically if mains 230V power is getting to the element terminals, and the element is OK, there will be a current of between about 200mA and 800mA. If there is no current flow, the element has failed. It is often possible to access the back of the fridge through the external vents, and replace the element without having to take out the whole fridge. To confirm the element has failed, disconnect the element wires, and measure the element resistance with a meter.

 

[GeoffnDee]

As the fridge in this case is cooling well on its 230v setting I believe that the 230v element must be ok and is not in need of testing.

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[autorouter]

As the fridge in this case is cooling well on its 230v setting I believe that the 230v element must be ok and is not in need of testing.

The OP says there was a mistake in the original post. The later post, #12, says that when switched to mains 230V power, the fridge does not cool.

There is some confusion regarding the MAIN/AUX switch on the control panel, which switches between the starter battery (MAIN) and the leisure battery (AUX). This is not related to the MAINS/12V switch on the fridge, which switches between the 230V MAINS and the 12V.

When the fridge control is switched to '12V', the fridge cools whether the MAIN/AUX switch is set to MAIN or AUX. But it flattens whichever battery is connected in a few hours, unsurprisingly.

 

[AmandaC]

Thank you all. Resolved.
I think the fact I made a mistake in my original post hasnt helped.
I know when the control panel switch is on MAIN and the Fridge green switch is on, the fridge goes cold.
I am going to stick with this whilst parked at home on the EHU and on the campsites on EHU.
When driving, I will put the control panel switch on AUX and the Red fridge switch is on, to keep the temp.

 

[ChrisL]

As the fridge in this case is cooling well on its 230v setting I believe that the 230v element must be ok and is not in need of testing.

I think you are misunderstanding the use of the word Main (meaning the engine battery) and Mains (meaning the 230v supply) it works when 12v are supplied from the engine battery (Main) it does not work when the 12v is supplied from the habitation battery (Aux) and the van is on hookup with the fridge set to Mains (230v).

 

[ChrisL]

Thank you all. Resolved.
I think the fact I made a mistake in my original post hasnt helped.
I know when the control panel switch is on MAIN and the Fridge green switch is on, the fridge goes cold.
I am going to stick with this whilst parked at home on the EHU and on the campsites on EHU.
When driving, I will put the control panel switch on AUX and the Red fridge switch is on, to keep the temp.

Is your engine battery being charged whilst you are on hookup? If not then it will be flat again quite soon.

 

[GeoffnDee]

AmandaC ,As ChrisL has said make sure that the battery charger is switched on and working when on EHU, there should be an on/off switch on it or at/near the 230v mains supply unit.
If you have not already done so , It could also be useful to you if you download the fridge operating manual that he put on and is on post 13

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[TheBig1]

The fridge requires 2 different 12v feeds, one from the battery for the control circuit, which should be connected to the leisure Aux battery. The other a feed from the alternator and van battery to power the 12v element when the engine is running only. If the 240v only works with the switch set to main, somebody has messed with the wiring. Not difficult to fix if you know how. Find the live 12v wire at the back of the fridge that only goes live with aux selected. Move that to the 12v control circuit live input. At an educated guess I suspect the 12v alternator feed has been joined to the same circuit. Then it will only draw power from the engine battery making it go flat if not being permanently charged,

This is why the previous owner advised wrongly on the switch and likely only ever used the van on sites with electric hookup

 

[pappajohn]

So why wont the fridge go cold when control panel is Aux and the fridge switch is MAINS? That should work right?

There's the problem....
The fridge is trying to use the 230volt mains (hookup) but it's not on hookup so the 12v panel is set to 12v hab battery.
The fridge won't cool as there's no 230v mains.
Switch the fridge to 12v.... If if still won't cool it needs to be on gas or hookup.
Apart from all this why do you want the fridge cooling at home?

 

[autorouter]

There's the problem....
The fridge is trying to use the 230volt mains (hookup) but it's not on hookup so the 12v panel is set to 12v hab battery.
The fridge won't cool as there's no 230v mains.

parked on my drive and EHU in, using Aux on the control panel, and the fridge switch is set to use the MAINS (the switch on the fridge, the green one) and the fridge wont go cold "