Alternative to the Ctek D250SE?

[Mr Drizz]

So as a follow on from this thread where I talk about killing my Ctek controller. I'm now looking for a replacement, something that takes more than the 23v Voc of the Ctek and can still charge from the alternator while the van is running.

Any suggestion?

Thanks.
Mark.

 

[autorouter]

You could look at the Votronic Triple - max 36V for the solar controller. Includes a mains charger and a B2B for charging from the Alternator.
<Broken link removed>

 

[Mr Drizz]

You could look at the Votronic Triple - max 36V for the solar controller. Includes a mains charger and a B2B for charging from the Alternator.
<Broken link removed>

Thanks. I was a little shocked at its price

 

[autorouter]

That's the downside of combination units - when one bit fails, you have to buy a new combination unit. I'd imagine CTEK devices are difficult to open to repair them. I prefer separate units.

 

[Mr Drizz]

After a bit of research it's seem that it's totally fixable. The units have 3 blade fuses (30a) inside protecting the circuitry. One of them will most likely have blown.

Ctek won't fix under warranty as it's user error.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Mr Drizz]

Update.
Had a look in side. Sure enough soldered in 30A blade fuse has popped.

Downside, I know bigger all about soldering and don't have the necessary kit.

 

[autorouter]

Had a look in side. Sure enough soldered in 30A blade fuse has popped.

You could ask CTEK if they will sell you some fuses, or at least tell you the brand/type of a suitable fuse. Once you have the fuses or the info, there's a lot of places could do the soldering. A local electronics place, or even a phone repair shop. Failing that, A&N Caravans in North Wales isn't very far away, or Apuljack Engineering. They both fix motorhome/caravan power distribution boxes, so will find that easy. If you can't get any sense out of CTEK, you could post a picture, someone might recognise the fuse type.

 

[Mr Drizz]

You could ask CTEK if they will sell you some fuses, or at least tell you the brand/type of a suitable fuse. Once you have the fuses or the info, there's a lot of places could do the soldering. A local electronics place, or even a phone repair shop. Failing that, A&N Caravans in North Wales isn't very far away, or Apuljack Engineering. They both fix motorhome/caravan power distribution boxes, so will find that easy. If you can't get any sense out of CTEK, you could post a picture, someone might recognise the fuse type.

I'll take some pictures later.
The fuse doesn't Look special, it really is just a blade fuse.

 

[Mr Drizz]

 

[autorouter]

The fuse doesn't Look special, it really is just a blade fuse.

I'd say you're right about that. Good photos, they show the faulty fuse well. Standard 30A blade fuse. The access looks a bit awkward but doable - have to make sure the other little components underneath don't get desoldered accidentally. Melting the solder on both contacts would be possible, but even easier would be to snip the fuse in two - carefully - and desolder each bit separately. Soldering a new fuse would not be a problem.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Mr Drizz]

I'd say you're right about that. Good photos, they show the faulty fuse well. Standard 30A blade fuse. The access looks a bit awkward but doable - have to make sure the other little components underneath don't get desoldered accidentally. Melting the solder on both contacts would be possible, but even easier would be to snip the fuse in two - carefully - and desolder each bit separately. Soldering a new fuse would not be a problem.

I had the same thought. I have bought a soldering kit and it has a solder sucker ( it's a new one on me)

Watched good few tutorials now and feel pretty confident I can do it

 

[Tdexter]

I'd be tempted to solder in a blade fuse holder so if it happens again in the future it will be easy to change.

 

[autorouter]

I'd be tempted to solder in a blade fuse holder so if it happens again in the future it will be easy to change.

If there's enough height above the board. If you do that, you could blob a bit of hot melt glue at the base to avoid vibration cracking - like you can see round the other big components. Or even silicone if you don't have a hot melt gun.

And just in case you haven't heard the well-known saying - If you're soldering, whatever the problem, the answer is more flux.

 

[Mr Drizz]

Pleased to say I have swapped out the fuse successfully.
Wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.

 

[Revolvor]

Pleased to say I have swapped out the fuse successfully.
Wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.

I fitted a CTEK D250 to my van, and I'm very pleased with it, but it's good to know about the fuses, and that they can be replaced if necessary.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Hoovie]

Handy to be able to do that I could imagine desoldering that fuse could cause potential issues as Autorouter was mentioning but you did it
I have a Redarc B2B/MPPT Dual charger a customer gave me which blew after he exceeded the input voltage on the solar side. But the Redarcs are all potted which makes way too messy to try and repair just an expensive ornament in the shed now.

To answer your initial question (which you no longer need the answer to of course ) the Ablemail AMS MPPT/B2B has an PV input limit of 32V.. so much greater window of safety compared to the CTEKs 23V. I think also it won't blow up anything if you exceed it but has a safety cutoff, which is good.

Personally, I prefer separate B2B and MPPT - allows much better flexibility and options (I run a Ablemail 60A B2B and a pair of Victron MPPTs).

 

[Revolvor]

............ Personally, I prefer separate B2B and MPPT - allows much better flexibility and options (I run a Ablemail 60A B2B and a pair of Victron MPPTs).

In hindsight, I should have gone with separate units, but as a MH newbie in 2015 I didn't even know what the terms MPPT or B2B meant, and the CTECK D250 seemed like a good solution, from a reputable manufacturer. I'd certainly go for a Victron or Votronic controller if I did it again.

 

[Mr Drizz]

Thank's guys, TBH if I'd had failed at the repair I would have taken a more serious look at separate units. Who knows I may still do that way down the road.

 

[cmcardle75]

Thank's guys, TBH if I'd had failed at the repair I would have taken a more serious look at separate units. Who knows I may still do that way down the road.

And with the CTEK working, you can now do that one at a time, if the need arose (i.e. trying to get more B2B current, or higher PV voltage).

 

[DannySafeway]

I reversed the voltage on my ctek250se and both fuses went iv changed them but now it lights up for 1 second and blows fuse again any ideas what else iv done and how to fix

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[DannySafeway]

Iv fitted swappable fuses now i was looking for a 5.0SMDJ22A but no joy finding any as been told they blow with the fuse?

 

[autorouter]

Is this what you want?
Broken Link Removed

 

[DannySafeway]

Looks like it its the fuse that blows on the input A in side