Alko Rear Axle Maintenance and Replacement

The only way you know it is getting to the bearing is if it comes out by the axle. You then know that enough has been squeezed through the bearings. If there is only one grease nipple how do you know which way the grease went when you injected it. Also depends on the type of grease used and how hot or cold it is. A thick grease is not going to get to where a thin grease gets no matter how much pressure you put it under.
 
Figaro said:
Humm, that`s a lot more than the 5 or 6 squirts recommended that I read in an earlier post
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Sometimes he's only under there for a few minutes, (tandem axles) so they obviously don't take a lot of grease every time.
I know someone who was having ride problems with their tandem axle MH, and when ALKO UK inspected the axles, they were both found to be completely empty of any grease at all, and had been like that from the factory. :eek:

Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
I recognise myself from that description! ;)

Bizarrely the axles were still fine! A whole shed load of grease was pumped into the axles but unfortunately that didn't cure the issue with my van.
 
We used to get our mechanic to grease until grease started to come out at the ends. It sometimes took quite a lot. We never had problems but I did wonder how much grease was inside the axle tube after 10 years.
 
I can highly recommend Fraser Brown. He has refurbished the alko axle on my previous motorhome. I have just removed the alko axle from our Hobby 600 to be picked up tomorrow for refurbishment. Very helpful, great friendly service, very approachable for advice. Visit his website or call Fraser, number on website.
 
Ecojoe said:
I can highly recommend Fraser Brown. He has refurbished the alko axle on my previous motorhome. I have just removed the alko axle from our Hobby 600 to be picked up tomorrow for refurbishment. Very helpful, great friendly service, very approachable for advice. Visit his website or call Fraser, number on website.
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Hi @Ecojoe. Can I ask please why your Hobby 600 needed an axle to be removed, and sent off for refurbishment?

Our 1999 tandem axled MH is still functional with neither axle needing removal, having had them serviced and greased annually. (y)

Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
Rear end is low on both sides my have been overloaded in the past or not greased
 
Just enquired at Marquis Motor homes if they would grease the rear axle on my 1 year old swift bolero with the al-ko chassis they stated it does not have any grease points, this was from 3 members of their staff Devon branch, so booked into main dealers. What a bunch of no nothing clowns.

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Not all Alko have grease points
Have you seen yours?
 
Just to clarify, they did not know about any lubrication of the rear axle and this was in their service reception. They had never heard of it ,probably thought I was making it up.
 
We asked specificall about ours but there are no grease nipples on the axle. So we must have the type sealed for life.
 
I watched mechanics in the 60's servicing BMC cars.... Minis, 1100s etc

They used to squirt grease under the rubber covers on track rods etc - their excuse - on new cars you couldn't get the grease into the joint - their way it 'looked' like it had been done........

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An old thread but I noted that there was a recommendation for using molybdenum disulphide grease. A word of warning, molybdenum disulphide grease age hardens and can actually cause parts supposed to move to seize. You may recall a Wessex helicopter crash in a lake in Wales some years ago. The root cause was determined to be the incorrect engagement of the tail rotor drive shaft disconnect coupling due to the molybdenum disulphide grease used on the coupling age hardening. The same was found to be true on the Sea King fleet which had a very similar disconnect coupling. The grease specified in the manuals and the method of application were changed 'toot sweet'

Do not use molybdenum disulphide grease unless the manual specifies it. If it is specified, check to see if the manual calls for cleaning and re-greasing as opposed to just greasing. Axle failure may not have the same consequences as a TRDS disconnect coupling failure but it is expensive.
 
Eenansue said:
An old thread but I noted that there was a recommendation for using molybdenum disulphide grease. A word of warning, molybdenum disulphide grease age hardens and can actually cause parts supposed to move to seize. You may recall a Wessex helicopter crash in a lake in Wales some years ago. The root cause was determined to be the incorrect engagement of the tail rotor drive shaft disconnect coupling due to the molybdenum disulphide grease used on the coupling age hardening. The same was found to be true on the Sea King fleet which had a very similar disconnect coupling. The grease specified in the manuals and the method of application were changed 'toot sweet'

Do not use molybdenum disulphide grease unless the manual specifies it. If it is specified, check to see if the manual calls for cleaning and re-greasing as opposed to just greasing. Axle failure may not have the same consequences as a TRDS disconnect coupling failure but it is expensive.
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Different stuff. The one l mentioned won't harden. There are some moly-based greases that are more moly than grease and are used in extremely highly-loaded and continually rotated bearings (CV joints). It doesn't harden either but might if used in less busy area.
 
Well, talk about irony ... we have been running about in the exact same mh as the OP and the old bus now has a significant list to port, which has also been diagnosed as a problem with the torsion bar(s). I certainly had no idea about the greasing requirement. :cry:

The OP hasn't been active since then; I wonder whatever happened to his old axle? However, it looks like Fraser Brown are still in business so I'll definitely be giving them a call.

I'll post updates back here if/when I make progress, in case it helps anyone else with a similar problem.
 
mickymouse said:
I have a Hymer on a alko chassis and the workshop manager [here in Spain] told me it was greased when I had water ingress and habitation check done! when I checked the grease nipples they still had spray paint over covers and had not been removed, I purchased grease from and brought a grease gun, I went to my local tyre depot and had them jack up the van and greased them myself, now I know they are done.
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Just ordered the Shell Gadus and grease gun from ebay. Will do mine later this week when they arrive.
 
Shell Gadus is the stuff i've used for the last 6 years on the axel of my 2003 Burstner 660 ..... once a year. Always takes grease, sometimes very little, sometimes quite a bit. I usually pump the hand lever on the grease gun until the back pressure is at a point where I am unable to pull the lever down.

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By sheer coincidence I took my van in to sort out a gas oil leak last week and while iI was in the local independent the mechanic spotted that my two rear axles had not been greased for some time i.e. probably fro new .
Rather disappointing to be honest since I just literally paid £500 for a Fiat professional service. I will now be buying a grease gun I’m given that I have self levelers it’s an easy job to take the weight off the back wheels and grease the axles twice a year .
 
wp1234 said:
Rather disappointing to be honest since I just literally paid £500 for a Fiat professional service.
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I think I'd be having a word with the Fiat Garage, and asking them for the itemised part of the service documents, if not already issued to you, and take things from there.

Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
You should put grease in until you feel resistance this should only take 7-10 pumps. Over filling can result in the internal seals being damaged. Personally I have not felt the resistant so just do 10 pumps. You only need to lift the wheel you are greasing, on a tag axle you can lift both wheels on the same side together. Grease nipples can be replaced quite easily and it is best to replace or renew the rubber cap. Lifting the wheels is recommended to ensure even application of the grease, if you cannot lift it is still best to get some in.

www.motorhometour.co.uk

Greasing / lubricating an AL-KO rear chassis on a motorhome - Motorhome Tour

How to lubricate and grease the axle on an AL-KO chassis. This needs to be done annually or every 20,000km or which ever comes first.
www.motorhometour.co.uk www.motorhometour.co.uk
 
JockandRita said:
I think I'd be having a word with the Fiat Garage, and asking them for the itemised part of the service documents, if not already issued to you, and take things from there.

Cheers,

Jock. :)
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To be honest I have had it with so called Fiat Pro mechanics and their service schedule. Im not impressed with any of them Ive had dealings with lately I’m afraid .
I’m going to start using my local and very professional indy garage , I will of course still always uses OEM parts just for peace of mind .
 
wp1234 said:
I’m going to start using my local and very professional indy garage , I will of course still always uses OEM parts just for peace of mind .
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I don't blame you.
My mate is a one man band, former HGV mechanic and ex Royal Mail workshops. TBH, If it wasn't for him over the last 18 x years, we wouldn't have been be able to keep the MH on the road.
In October, between us, we changed the dual mass flywheel and complete clutch kit................on our driveway in about 3.5 hours. The OE spec and warranted AP Lockheed parts sourced, were half the price Iveco wanted, plus fitting and VAT. :Eeek:

Cheers,

Jock. :)

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JockandRita said:
I don't blame you.
My mate is a one man band, former HGV mechanic and ex Royal Mail workshops. TBH, If it wasn't for him over the last 18 x years, we wouldn't have been be able to keep the MH on the road.
In October, between us, we changed the dual mass flywheel and complete clutch kit................on our driveway in about 3.5 hours. The OE spec and warranted AP Lockheed parts sourced, were half the price Iveco wanted, plus fitting and VAT. :Eeek:

Cheers,

Jock. :)
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Impressive ..wow
 
wp1234 said:
By sheer coincidence I took my van in to sort out a gas oil leak last week and while iI was in the local independent the mechanic spotted that my two rear axles had not been greased for some time i.e. probably fro new .
Rather disappointing to be honest since I just literally paid £500 for a Fiat professional service. I will now be buying a grease gun I’m given that I have self levelers it’s an easy job to take the weight off the back wheels and grease the axles twice a year .
Click to expand...
Fiat makes no mention of greasing axles in their service Schedule. That is because Fiat's suspension is leaf springs with no grease nipples. The torsion bar axle is made by Alko and added afterwards by the converter. This information should be provided by the converter, which is usually done by including Alko's service instructions in the information pack at handover. In the same way as providing service information from Thetford, Dometic etc for other items that the converter has added.
 
If you get an issue with torsion bar axles, fraser brown engineering will remanufacture them and return better than OEM. Much cheaper than a new axle
 
After reading this thread I checked our back axle, which is an Alko chassis (with grease nipples) and sure enough there was no sign of any grease on either the nipples or the dust covers.
I contacted Alko UK as to whether the wheels had to be hanging as I wanted to grease them quickly before we used the motorhome and I quote their reply:
___________
Good morning,
You can grease the axle on the ground it does not have to be elevated, However elevating can help spread the grease very slightly when lowered.

Regards
Service
___________
So, better to lift the motorhome, but not imperative.
 
Can't get a grease gun on mine without lifting it

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