Alde 3010 Blank Control Panel Solution/Fix

Hi fantastic tips thank you, will the Techna T16 Thermal Breaker 10A shut down at 93 dgr.Celsius ? I will order the circuit from ebay now and want to be sure its the right one ,
best regards Anders
 
This may be an old thread but still very relevant dismantled my friend's system today with a dead panel and exactly what the OP said, the thermal fuse was gone. Shorted it out and system working fine. Fantastic bit of built-in failure so it is pretty sure to fail after a few years of heating and cooling so Aldi can sell new boards at €300 each plus labour.
Thanks to the OP for a fantastic post.
Steve
 
Am I correct in inferring from dpsuk's post above that the Alde 3020 is fitted with the Techna T16 Thermal Breaker or is the T16 someone's interpretation of what the 3010 needs to provide thermal protection?
 
Thank you to dpsuk and others above. I tried the temporary work around suggested above and we now have heating again! Just as well as it's just turned cold again in Murcia. Unfortunately, I have a £300 replacement part on it's way....
If i can source a thermal fuse in Spain and solder it in or source a Techna T16 and wire it in i can maybe find a buyer for the new, replacement part and get some of the money back.

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Huge thank you for this post. Woke one cold morning to a blank control board and no heating.

Found your post. Followed the instructions for the temporary fix with 2 crocodile clips and fuse wire which worked, ordered a new thermal fuse from apuljack engineering which was received within a few days and fitted it following the instructions and all works perfect.

Absolutely brilliant ?
 
Another big thanks to dpsuk999 for his super post on blank control panel. Just had the same problem, ordered a fuse from apuljack engineering, bought a soldering iron from Argos, total cost £30.Job done,van now nice & toasty ?.
 
There is a thermal fuse on older Carver/Truma gas/electric heaters too.
Might be a similar fix?
 
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Reactions: kip
Hello. I'm experiencing the dead panel issue with Alde 3010. I'm a newbie with a multimeter. Can I accurately check for continuity with the thermal fuse still attached to the board? If so, it appears that's not the issue as the multimeter is dropping to near 0.
 
If your checking for continuity I think it should beep, anyway follow post one and TEMPORARILY by pass the thermal fuse, this will confirm it’s the fuse, follow the posts, they work, if I can fix it on a wet, frosty and foggy day on the Mosel, I’m sure you can, good luck👍

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This is a good example of the OP in this case but many others should take his lead and that is using the Search facility rather than often asking mundane questions immediately they join the forum.
Another reason to factor this in is that it brings subject of a technical nature such as this one back to the fro, l for one have archived all of the details for future reference.

Thanks to the OP for taking the time and effort to give such detail an example to all.
 
Hey guy's I have the same problem with heating stopped after a while when it warms up and got the Windo error (window open error) on the control panel. I've tried starting it with another panel and it worked for a short time and the everything went blank again. If I'm bypassing the 93C fuse I can start it but not with the old panel as it still says the Windo error. Any ideas of how I can remove the error from the panel please?
 
dpsuk999 said:
For all the fellow mh'ers who find their Alde control panel blank and who are told they need a new PCB board (at a cost of £280)! Please read this thread and the cost of repair will be considerably less at £0.59p!

Last week whilst in Italy I woke up to find my control panel blank and no sign of life at all. If you google this problem many people are told to first check the 2 glass 20mm fuses which are under the inspection cover at the top of your boiler (F1 and F3) which are 3.15amp. They are in little green fuse holders. Most of the time you will find these fuses are perfect and not blown and you will be told you need a new PCB. NOT THE CASE.

More likely it will be fuse F2 (a 90 degree non resettable thermal fuse) which in Alde great wisdom decided to solder onto the PCB and not make it resettable. This fuse is directly below the right hand side glass fuse. Thermal fuses degrade over time so you will most likely come across this problem if your boiler is a few years old and a good income stream for Alde.

If you are a competent diy'er then you can replace this fuse by re-soldering a new thermal fuse onto the PCB. Unfortunatly I didn't have a replacement with me so as a temporary measure I removed the PCB which is an easy job:

First remove the grey cover by unscrewing the top retaining screw and 2 on the side and remove. You will now be able to see the PCB board which will look like this:
View attachment 167032

Remove the brown, blue, black, red and grey wires from the left side, the three white connectors on the right side and the 3 black wires from the bottom relay. Make a note of where they go. Next undo a hex screw to the left of the PCB board but do not remove (fastens the heat sink to the casing) Now unclip the PCB board and remove. Now you can see the thermal fuse just below the white connector:
View attachment 167041

Test the fuse by setting your multimeter to ohms and test for continuity and more than likely the fuse will have blown (no continuity). As a temporary measure if you do not have a thermal fuse just cut the fuse as close to the fuse as possible and leave the tail wires in place and using a wire with crocodile clips just join them together. Remember this is a TEMPORARY measure until you can replace with a thermal fuse:
View attachment 167043

You can order the thermal fuses from here:
-Broken Link Removed-

Luckily I had a friend who was travelling my way so they brought the fuses for me.

View attachment 167055

So when you have a replacement thermal fuse, remember that they are rated at 93 degrees centigrade therefore when soldering be very careful not to blow the fuse with the soldering iron. I placed crocodile clips onto the tails to dissipate the heat and soldered one end:
View attachment 167056

Before soldering the other tail I tested the fuse to make sure it was ok. I then soldered the other tail:
View attachment 167057

1 hour later and all is working.
View attachment 167058
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Hi, I just happened on this brilliant site! Thanks for posting this, mine has just blown and hopefully I will be able to sort it. Did you solder the new fuse directly onto the board or onto the end stems of the old fuse?
 
I soldered directly onto the board 👍
 
DIYER said:
Hi, I just happened on this brilliant site! Thanks for posting this, mine has just blown and hopefully I will be able to sort it. Did you solder the new fuse directly onto the board or onto the end stems of the old fuse?
Click to expand...
Just out of interest if your not confident with a soldering iron,a fellow funster recently had a complete 3010 circuit board for sale £50 I think?.

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kip said:
Just out of interest if your not confident with a soldering iron,a fellow funster recently had a complete 3010 circuit board for sale £50 I think?.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I have it sorted though, all working perfectly again! Saved myself €350 at least!
 
UPDATE APRIL 2021

Although I completed this fix, on recent information gleaned I am left wondering wether it was the right thing to do? If you complete the fix use it as a temporary fix only measure to get your boiler on again, here’s why!

I shall elaborate, I took my van to Alde yesterday for a boiler service and fluid change, on examination the engineer said he would have to fit a new PCB as I had made a modification to the board ie a push button resettable thermal fuse, as a gas safe engineer he therefore said the type approval of the boiler had been compromised and he could not work on it unless he replaced the PCB. I agreed and he carried on. (If I had just replaced the fuse like for like he would have been none the wiser, however.....)

On further investigation he said that in actual fact what I had fitted was a resettable thermal breaker (Techna T16 thermal breaker as mentioned in post #22, this is an AC breaker it is not the same as a fuse and should not be fitted, as it only trips under load and not due to the heat, it needs to tested under rigorous conditions to gain type approval

The non resettable fuse in post #1 is the one that should be used, you can get the correct one on EBay


The engineer further stated that if the thermal fuse has blown there has clearly been an overheat situation with the boiler and it should be investigated at the earliest possibility rather than just replace the fuse. I have to agree, here’s why......

so back to the service and fluid change, on stripping down the case of my boiler it was clear there had been a leak of glycol around the main unit causing extensive corrosion and bowing of the boiler, probably due to lack of air cushion, which had probably been caused by either an excessive over heat situation, or frost, or both. The result was I would have to renew the boiler shell at a cost of £900 odd utilising the bits off the old boiler or fit an entirely new system for £2300. I am now the proud owner of a new Alde 3020 heating system in my van!!

Lessons learned, specifically for Alde systems, but others may be similar-

1. If your boilers thermal fuse blows, find out why, even if fixing it yourself, there’s a reason!

2. Don’t fit a breaker instead of a fuse, fit the exact same as a replacement.

3. Change the Glycol every two years on older systems, 5 years with the newer glycol.

4. If your using more than an egg cup full of glycol a year (his words) find out why!

5. Renew the air cushion every 10 days of use. Switch off the water pump, Open the safety -/drain valve of the water heater (water dump) for 20 seconds or until about a litre of water drains out. This allows the air cushion to renew at the top of the tank which is essential for absorbing pressure surges. ( no I didn’t know that either)

6. Drain the water boiler every winter as well as water tank (heating will still work)

7. Bleed the system once a year. Turn heating on till warm, turn off and bleed.

So of course, if your like me and have never bothered with any of the above that’s fine, and you too could have the following items off a 2012 Alde 3010 system for sale:-

Gas Valve
Gas Burner
Glycol Pump
Combustion Fan
PCB panel complete with thermal fuse (bench tested at Alde)

If you have ANY problems with an ALDE system the guys there are only too willing to help with any queries, give them a ring, or me as I’m now an expert;)

Hope the above is of some use and may save some of you from a VERY expensive fix! :eek: (y) :rolleyes:
 
This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
A BIG thank you for posting this, Alde system in Bailey Caravan, 2 crocodile clips and a piece of wire saved my wife from a cold week in the van!! and also saved my ears :0) - got back home, removed the circuit board, changed the Heat Fuse all good as new for £1.49 inc postage and Packing.

Once again - a BIG Thank you
 
Hi There, We have one of the control boards that has been brought to us for repair. We have identified the exact fault above but in addition what we think is a capacitor missing, which in your image that you are testing the continuity in is located directly to the right of the "F2" symbol on the board and left of the label "JP14". Aldel of course refuse to tell us what size this is so was wondering if anyone had one of these boards and could tell us what that component size is so we can replace it and save the owner a fortune for not having to splash out on a new board.

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Hi have the same problem, put the new thermo fuse and blew again , so bridge it to see it power up control unit it did for a few seconds and then went of and the unit was clicking a lot ??? Any help what could be?
 
dpsuk999 said:
For all the fellow mh'ers who find their Alde control panel blank and who are told they need a new PCB board (at a cost of £280)! Please read this thread and the cost of repair will be considerably less at £0.59p!

Last week whilst in Italy I woke up to find my control panel blank and no sign of life at all. If you google this problem many people are told to first check the 2 glass 20mm fuses which are under the inspection cover at the top of your boiler (F1 and F3) which are 3.15amp. They are in little green fuse holders. Most of the time you will find these fuses are perfect and not blown and you will be told you need a new PCB. NOT THE CASE.

More likely it will be fuse F2 (a 90 degree non resettable thermal fuse) which in Alde great wisdom decided to solder onto the PCB and not make it resettable. This fuse is directly below the right hand side glass fuse. Thermal fuses degrade over time so you will most likely come across this problem if your boiler is a few years old and a good income stream for Alde.

If you are a competent diy'er then you can replace this fuse by re-soldering a new thermal fuse onto the PCB. Unfortunatly I didn't have a replacement with me so as a temporary measure I removed the PCB which is an easy job:

First remove the grey cover by unscrewing the top retaining screw and 2 on the side and remove. You will now be able to see the PCB board which will look like this:
View attachment 167032

Remove the brown, blue, black, red and grey wires from the left side, the three white connectors on the right side and the 3 black wires from the bottom relay. Make a note of where they go. Next undo a hex screw to the left of the PCB board but do not remove (fastens the heat sink to the casing) Now unclip the PCB board and remove. Now you can see the thermal fuse just below the white connector:
View attachment 167041

Test the fuse by setting your multimeter to ohms and test for continuity and more than likely the fuse will have blown (no continuity). As a temporary measure if you do not have a thermal fuse just cut the fuse as close to the fuse as possible and leave the tail wires in place and using a wire with crocodile clips just join them together. Remember this is a TEMPORARY measure until you can replace with a thermal fuse:
View attachment 167043

You can order the thermal fuses from here:
-Broken Link Removed-

Luckily I had a friend who was travelling my way so they brought the fuses for me.

View attachment 167055

So when you have a replacement thermal fuse, remember that they are rated at 93 degrees centigrade therefore when soldering be very careful not to blow the fuse with the soldering iron. I placed crocodile clips onto the tails to dissipate the heat and soldered one end:
View attachment 167056

Before soldering the other tail I tested the fuse to make sure it was ok. I then soldered the other tail:
View attachment 167057

1 hour later and all is working.
View attachment 167058
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
You just saved me $1,000! I was told by a service professional that I had to replace the whole board. I asked about the thermal fuse, and he said that the whole board needed to be replaced, it would cost me around a $1,000 he told me. So I thought nothing ventured, nothing gained. And I ordered 2 Alde thermal fuses, one extra for 'just in case'. By way of testing I just hung the new one around the old one, and VOILA, the control panel lit up just beautifully! It WAS just the thermal fuse. I have not soldered it in, I have never soldered, this would not be a good one to learn on. My question is, could I just wrap the new fuses' wires around the old fuses' wires? I'm wondering about the longevity of such a solution.
 
Elite-Elec said:
Hi There, We have one of the control boards that has been brought to us for repair. We have identified the exact fault above but in addition what we think is a capacitor missing, which in your image that you are testing the continuity in is located directly to the right of the "F2" symbol on the board and left of the label "JP14". Aldel of course refuse to tell us what size this is so was wondering if anyone had one of these boards and could tell us what that component size is so we can replace it and save the owner a fortune for not having to splash out on a new board.
Click to expand...
Did you ever resolve this ? (and I realise you never actually joined, but you 'might' get notifications still?) it might be helpful for others if you can offer your solution?
 
Well put together.. Thank you.

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dpsuk999 said:
For all the fellow mh'ers who find their Alde control panel blank and who are told they need a new PCB board (at a cost of £280)! Please read this thread and the cost of repair will be considerably less at £0.59p!

Last week whilst in Italy I woke up to find my control panel blank and no sign of life at all. If you google this problem many people are told to first check the 2 glass 20mm fuses which are under the inspection cover at the top of your boiler (F1 and F3) which are 3.15amp. They are in little green fuse holders. Most of the time you will find these fuses are perfect and not blown and you will be told you need a new PCB. NOT THE CASE.

More likely it will be fuse F2 (a 90 degree non resettable thermal fuse) which in Alde great wisdom decided to solder onto the PCB and not make it resettable. This fuse is directly below the right hand side glass fuse. Thermal fuses degrade over time so you will most likely come across this problem if your boiler is a few years old and a good income stream for Alde.

If you are a competent diy'er then you can replace this fuse by re-soldering a new thermal fuse onto the PCB. Unfortunatly I didn't have a replacement with me so as a temporary measure I removed the PCB which is an easy job:

First remove the grey cover by unscrewing the top retaining screw and 2 on the side and remove. You will now be able to see the PCB board which will look like this:
View attachment 167032

Remove the brown, blue, black, red and grey wires from the left side, the three white connectors on the right side and the 3 black wires from the bottom relay. Make a note of where they go. Next undo a hex screw to the left of the PCB board but do not remove (fastens the heat sink to the casing) Now unclip the PCB board and remove. Now you can see the thermal fuse just below the white connector:
View attachment 167041

Test the fuse by setting your multimeter to ohms and test for continuity and more than likely the fuse will have blown (no continuity). As a temporary measure if you do not have a thermal fuse just cut the fuse as close to the fuse as possible and leave the tail wires in place and using a wire with crocodile clips just join them together. Remember this is a TEMPORARY measure until you can replace with a thermal fuse:
View attachment 167043

You can order the thermal fuses from here:
-Broken Link Removed-

Luckily I had a friend who was travelling my way so they brought the fuses for me.

View attachment 167055

So when you have a replacement thermal fuse, remember that they are rated at 93 degrees centigrade therefore when soldering be very careful not to blow the fuse with the soldering iron. I placed crocodile clips onto the tails to dissipate the heat and soldered one end:
View attachment 167056

Before soldering the other tail I tested the fuse to make sure it was ok. I then soldered the other tail:
View attachment 167057

1 hour later and all is working.
View attachment 167058
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Just had mine replaced 3 weeks ago 😩😩
 
dpsuk999 said:
For all the fellow mh'ers who find their Alde control panel blank and who are told they need a new PCB board (at a cost of £280)! Please read this thread and the cost of repair will be considerably less at £0.59p!

Last week whilst in Italy I woke up to find my control panel blank and no sign of life at all. If you google this problem many people are told to first check the 2 glass 20mm fuses which are under the inspection cover at the top of your boiler (F1 and F3) which are 3.15amp. They are in little green fuse holders. Most of the time you will find these fuses are perfect and not blown and you will be told you need a new PCB. NOT THE CASE.

More likely it will be fuse F2 (a 90 degree non resettable thermal fuse) which in Alde great wisdom decided to solder onto the PCB and not make it resettable. This fuse is directly below the right hand side glass fuse. Thermal fuses degrade over time so you will most likely come across this problem if your boiler is a few years old and a good income stream for Alde.

If you are a competent diy'er then you can replace this fuse by re-soldering a new thermal fuse onto the PCB. Unfortunatly I didn't have a replacement with me so as a temporary measure I removed the PCB which is an easy job:

First remove the grey cover by unscrewing the top retaining screw and 2 on the side and remove. You will now be able to see the PCB board which will look like this:
View attachment 167032

Remove the brown, blue, black, red and grey wires from the left side, the three white connectors on the right side and the 3 black wires from the bottom relay. Make a note of where they go. Next undo a hex screw to the left of the PCB board but do not remove (fastens the heat sink to the casing) Now unclip the PCB board and remove. Now you can see the thermal fuse just below the white connector:
View attachment 167041

Test the fuse by setting your multimeter to ohms and test for continuity and more than likely the fuse will have blown (no continuity). As a temporary measure if you do not have a thermal fuse just cut the fuse as close to the fuse as possible and leave the tail wires in place and using a wire with crocodile clips just join them together. Remember this is a TEMPORARY measure until you can replace with a thermal fuse:
View attachment 167043

You can order the thermal fuses from here:
-Broken Link Removed-

Luckily I had a friend who was travelling my way so they brought the fuses for me.

View attachment 167055

So when you have a replacement thermal fuse, remember that they are rated at 93 degrees centigrade therefore when soldering be very careful not to blow the fuse with the soldering iron. I placed crocodile clips onto the tails to dissipate the heat and soldered one end:
View attachment 167056

Before soldering the other tail I tested the fuse to make sure it was ok. I then soldered the other tail:
View attachment 167057

1 hour later and all is working.
View attachment 167058
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Clever guy 👍👏
 
I had exactly the same problem and repaired the same way, well done. Will never have this type of heating again as found the noise of the continuous expansion and contraction of the radiators very annoying.
 
Another success story due to dpsuk999’s informative post.
The fuse bridge is in and working and parts ordered to fit when home.
Thankyou for sharing.
 
DesandDek said:
I had exactly the same problem and repaired the same way, well done. Will never have this type of heating again as found the noise of the continuous expansion and contraction of the radiators very annoying.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you need the system bleeding and topping up, never had any noise from any of mine? (y)

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