Advice for using laptop in motorhome

It depends on your laptop. The latest laptops are USB-C with PD (=Power Delivery). Apple laptops have their own special chargers, I don't know much about them.

Most other laptops can use a 'Car Laptop Adapter', which converts 12V DC from the battery to whatever DC the laptop uses, usually 19V. This is usually more efficient powerwise than a 240V inverter and a 240V laptop charger.
This one, for example, is for up to 90 watts, and has 8 interchangeable tips that will fit most laptop power inlets. But not absolutely all of them, so worth checking if your laptop is at all unusual.
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That is really interesting. Thanks for that. Mine is a 2015 Macbook Air (if I remember right). It definitely isn't the USB-C type. I will have a Google and see if I can find the kind of thing you are talking about as I suspect that would be a far better solution. Thanks autorouter
 
It depends on your laptop. The latest laptops are USB-C with PD (=Power Delivery). Apple laptops have their own special chargers, I don't know much about them.

Most other laptops can use a 'Car Laptop Adapter', which converts 12V DC from the battery to whatever DC the laptop uses, usually 19V. This is usually more efficient powerwise than a 240V inverter and a 240V laptop charger.
This one, for example, is for up to 90 watts, and has 8 interchangeable tips that will fit most laptop power inlets. But not absolutely all of them, so worth checking if your laptop is at all unusual.
Broken Link Removed

Thanks to your pointer I found this one on Amazon.

Amazon product ASIN B07JQYXGBH
My model is listed and it is definitely includes a Mag2 connector so looks like that will work.

So do you think that will last longer on the batteries than the 240v converter I am currently using?
 
My model is listed and it is definitely includes a Mag2 connector so looks like that will work.

So do you think that will last longer on the batteries than the 240v converter I am currently using?
To be honest, probably not much longer. Even if it lasts twice as long,that's only one hour. I think there's another big problem somewhere. I'd want to establish that the battery is definitely getting fully charged before you start the laptop work. Then see how long it lasts on the 240V inverter.

First read the starter battery and leisure battery voltages after standing without charging or load for an hour or so at least. They should be about 12.6 to 12.8V.

Then start the engine,and read the battery voltages again. The starter battery voltage should have risen to at least 14V, probably 14.4V. This tells you the alternator is working, charging the starter battery.

While the engine is running, the leisure battery voltage should have risen too. Up to about 14.4V, but if it's really flat it might only start at about 13.6V, and gradually rise to 14.4V as it charges up. That tells you the alternator is charging the leisure battery. But if it stays at 12.8V, it's not charging.

You can do a similar test with the mains hookup. If the voltage rises, the battery is being charged, if not there's a problem.
 
To be honest, probably not much longer. Even if it lasts twice as long,that's only one hour. I think there's another big problem somewhere. I'd want to establish that the battery is definitely getting fully charged before you start the laptop work. Then see how long it lasts on the 240V inverter.

First read the starter battery and leisure battery voltages after standing without charging or load for an hour or so at least. They should be about 12.6 to 12.8V.

Then start the engine,and read the battery voltages again. The starter battery voltage should have risen to at least 14V, probably 14.4V. This tells you the alternator is working, charging the starter battery.

While the engine is running, the leisure battery voltage should have risen too. Up to about 14.4V, but if it's really flat it might only start at about 13.6V, and gradually rise to 14.4V as it charges up. That tells you the alternator is charging the leisure battery. But if it stays at 12.8V, it's not charging.

You can do a similar test with the mains hookup. If the voltage rises, the battery is being charged, if not there's a problem.

They sound like brilliant instructions. I'm going to order a multimedia now. Would this one do the trick:

Amazon product ASIN B07BMQ578Z
or what about this neat looking fellow that came up when I search for multimeter motorhome.

Amazon product ASIN B01JOUZELG
And this is only £8.99 and I could drill a hole so I could keep it wired up.

Gosh. I didn't realise there was so much stuff available :)
 
yorkieman the problem with a "fixed" meter is it defeats the option of using it to test various circuits \ issues throughout motorhome \ home \ etc. Would suggest you'd just be doing "spot-checks" as per autorouter instructions so the first one or if you're nr Leeds do you have a local Screwfix or Toolstation?

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They sound like brilliant instructions. I'm going to order a multimedia now. Would this one do the trick:

I would recommend that you pay a little bit more and get a clamp multi meter that can measure DC current draw, this will be useful in finding out how much current is being used if your battery is running down quicker then expected, and also look at some videos on youtube on how to use it properly.

I can recommend this one from personal experience.

Amazon product ASIN B076C8D5BW
 
yorkieman the problem with a "fixed" meter is it defeats the option of using it to test various circuits \ issues throughout motorhome \ home \ etc. Would suggest you'd just be doing "spot-checks" as per autorouter instructions so the first one or if you're nr Leeds do you have a local Screwfix or Toolstation?

The nearest Screwfix is Shipley, which I'll be going near today I think. I will look it up and see if I can stop off there. Thanks Gellyneck
 
The nearest Screwfix is Shipley, which I'll be going near today I think. I will look it up and see if I can stop off there. Thanks Gellyneck
This one might do for you.
 
This one might do for you.

At that price it sounds like a real contender :)

Just heading near there now so will see what the traffic is like. If it is bad I will get the order in online and hope for delivery tomorrow as I think we might head off on Thursday.

Thanks again Gellyneck
 
I would recommend that you pay a little bit more and get a clamp multi meter that can measure DC current draw, this will be useful in finding out how much current is being used if your battery is running down quicker then expected, and also look at some videos on youtube on how to use it properly.

I can recommend this one from personal experience.
For measuring voltage and resistance, any cheap multimeter will do. But be careful choosing a clamp meter. Many of them are intended for electricians working on mains wiring, and will only measure AC amps, not DC. Of those that measure DC amps, most of those will only measure quite high amps values, and are not very good for tracing small battery drains of less than one amp.

The meter recommended, the UNI-T 210E, is one of the few inexpensive clamp meters with low amps capability. It also comes with probes and can measure volts, resistance and continuity. I also can recommend this meter from personal experience. It's the one I always have in the motorhome.

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For measuring voltage and resistance, any cheap multimeter will do. But be careful choosing a clamp meter. Many of them are intended for electricians working on mains wiring, and will only measure AC amps, not DC. Of those that measure DC amps, most of those will only measure quite high amps values, and are not very good for tracing small battery drains of less than one amp.

The meter recommended, the UNI-T 210E, is one of the few inexpensive clamp meters with low amps capability. It also comes with probes and can measure volts, resistance and continuity. I also can recommend this meter from personal experience. It's the one I always have in the motorhome.

I ended up getting that inexpensive one from Screwfix that Gellyneck recommended. That should do the job, right?
 
I ended up getting that inexpensive one from Screwfix that @Gellyneck recommended. That should do the job, right?
Yes, that's the kind most people have, and will measure voltages, resistance and continuity (= checking for breaks in wires, bad contacts, blown fuses etc). Measuring amps is a bit of a fuss with a meter like this, but it's not often required.
 
Dunnah01 is spot on to point out that there are 3 conditions that an inverter will object to: low input voltage, high output current draw, and high temperature.
I would only add that the low input voltage condition can be caused by low battery voltage, bad contacts (e.g. the cigarette lighter socket), or cable that is not thick enough, if your inverter is connected by a cable rather than sitting directly in the cigarette lighter socket. A thin cable will cause a drop in voltage between the socket and the inverter.
 
Interesting thread. Once you have sorted what the battery issue is I would suggest that you use a car laptop 12 volt to 19 volt converter to charge your laptop.

Check out laVolta I have used their products before. We also make sure that we charge all the gadgets when travelling.

We happily run everything off 12 volts with no inverter.
 
I still want to know what the actual batteries are that have been fitted, we don't even know if they are kosha leisure ones. :rolleyes:

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I still want to know what the actual batteries are that have been fitted, we don't even know if they are kosha leisure ones. :rolleyes:
I'm going to get on with it today. I think I am a bit daunted by this high tech multimeter thingymajig. It keeps staring at me every time I go in the kitchen and I know I am doing everything I can to avoid it.
 
I'm going to get on with it today. I think I am a bit daunted by this high tech multimeter thingymajig. It keeps staring at me every time I go in the kitchen and I know I am doing everything I can to avoid it.
Do the non-male thing. Read the instruction manual!o_O
It's fairly simple, eg if you want to read voltage the black plug usually goes in the "COM" socket and the red in the "V" socket. Turn the dial to the appropriate voltage range, probably something like 20v DC. Black probe goes to the -ve terminal and red to the +ve terminal on the battery. Read the lcd screen and you've got the voltage.
 
Do the non-male thing. Read the instruction manual!o_O
It's fairly simple, eg if you want to read voltage the black plug usually goes in the "COM" socket and the red in the "V" socket. Turn the dial to the appropriate voltage range, probably something like 20v DC. Black probe goes to the -ve terminal and red to the +ve terminal on the battery. Read the lcd screen and you've got the voltage.
I've got visions of him just sitting in his kitchen twiddling it! :LOL:
 
Cold shower required for you, young lady!:hot::hot::hot:
I couldn't possibly know what you are alluding to! 😜

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To be honest, probably not much longer. Even if it lasts twice as long,that's only one hour. I think there's another big problem somewhere. I'd want to establish that the battery is definitely getting fully charged before you start the laptop work. Then see how long it lasts on the 240V inverter.

First read the starter battery and leisure battery voltages after standing without charging or load for an hour or so at least. They should be about 12.6 to 12.8V.

Then start the engine,and read the battery voltages again. The starter battery voltage should have risen to at least 14V, probably 14.4V. This tells you the alternator is working, charging the starter battery.

While the engine is running, the leisure battery voltage should have risen too. Up to about 14.4V, but if it's really flat it might only start at about 13.6V, and gradually rise to 14.4V as it charges up. That tells you the alternator is charging the leisure battery. But if it stays at 12.8V, it's not charging.

You can do a similar test with the mains hookup. If the voltage rises, the battery is being charged, if not there's a problem.

Followed the instructions to the letter. Awesome!!! Can't believe I managed to do something so macho :)

I wrote all the measurements down on a sheet, but stupid me left them on the kitchen top and we've now set off on an adventure. I'm going to get my son to photograph them and then I'll put them up here for you to critique :-)

Thanks for your help with this. Love this forum :)
 
Your Laptop is at risk if you use a direct 12v to laptop converter unles it is made by the laptop manufacturer. I use a PURE SINE WAVE inverter to power the laptop mains adapter no problem. I tried a cheap quasi sine wave inverter but it bleeped.
 
Your Laptop is at risk if you use a direct 12v to laptop converter unles it is made by the laptop manufacturer. I use a PURE SINE WAVE inverter to power the laptop mains adapter no problem. I tried a cheap quasi sine wave inverter but it bleeped.

Can you tell us if this is personal experience or hearsay? I'm asking because I have used a third party 12v laptop converter for years and not experienced any issues although I've never used it with the engine running just when parked up.
 
I am not doubting what Clive Mott has said from a pure technical standpoint but I have run both a Samsung and current HP laptop using a reputed 12 volt to 19 volt adapter (Lavolta) with no issues what so ever. Perhaps it depends on the type of laptop i.e a Mac.
 
Followed the instructions to the letter. Awesome!!! Can't believe I managed to do something so macho :)

I wrote all the measurements down on a sheet, but stupid me left them on the kitchen top and we've now set off on an adventure. I'm going to get my son to photograph them and then I'll put them up here for you to critique :)
Truly awsome! Looks like you've managed to achieve Government standard testing on your first go. Done the test, then the results are not available for a week:LOL:

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Your Laptop is at risk if you use a direct 12v to laptop converter unles it is made by the laptop manufacturer.
Are you saying that only laptop manufacturers can make a stabilised 19V power supply? I've used laptops on 12V adaptors since the last century, from PC World, Maplin, Conrad, MediaMarkt and others. I've never had a 12V adaptor from a laptop manufacturer. I'd bet that manufacturers buy in and relabel their mains power bricks anyway. Saves all that expensive EMC and Safety testing.
 
Sorry for the slightly off-topic post, but someone on this forum made a post, as well as a you-tube video, about building a low power pc for in-van use. I've tried searching the forum with various keywords, but not luck. Does anyone remember who it was?
 
Your Laptop is at risk if you use a direct 12v to laptop converter unles it is made by the laptop manufacturer. I use a PURE SINE WAVE inverter to power the laptop mains adapter no problem. I tried a cheap quasi sine wave inverter but it bleeped.
Howdy Clive :giggle: ... Mel B here ... how you both doing?
 
Oh my :-( I am just watching some Youtube vids as you suggest. I am clearly doing this all wrong as I know NOTHING about this stuff. And it seems like I should as we seem to go through batteries every two or three years. Looks like I will have to ditch the idea of my getting a portable coffee grinder for my birthday and get a multimeter instead :-(
If you're after a portable espresso maker, I recently got this one (link below) and I can ABSOLUTELY recommend it. You can charge it from the cigarette lighter, and if you pour in hot water (heated on the hob) it will make approximately 200 x espressos. (in about 90 seconds each) If you're out of gas, it will heat water from cold, but takes about 10 minutes, and you'll only get 3 espressos from a full charge. (but it will work from a 12v socket even if the internal battery is drained). It uses Nespresso capsules, so there's no mess too. Makes a really impressive brew.

Amazon product ASIN B07R55GT28
 
There is another way. I use a Windows laptop in the van when on hook up but if we are off grid I use an Android tablet. It does most of the things I can do on my Window laptop (but not all) and most importantly it charges using a USB-C port which means I can charge it from one of the USB ports in the van or better still from one of the two USB power bank we carry. Battery life is excellent - it lasts most of the day on a full charge. There are some decent productivity apps (Outlook, Word, Excel, Google Mail, Google docs) and I can do most of my basic photography stuff on it too. You can buy a decent Android tablet for £130 and with a bluetooth keyboard and mouse you'd have a good setup for well under £200. I paid top dollar for my mouse as I use it so much for photo editing but there are much cheaper options available. This is my setup.

Fire HD 10 - £130

Amazon product ASIN B07KD6BTCY
Bluetooth Keyboard - £12.95

Amazon product ASIN B017Z6QKAK
Bluetooth Mouse - £46.35

Amazon product ASIN B00JUHDYSO
64GB Micro SD Card - £10

Amazon product ASIN B073JYVKNX
The Fire HD10 is an absolute bargain (especially right now) and you can put the full Google Play store on it so you can use any app rather than being restricted to Amazon's app store. Best guide I've seen is here: https://www.howtogeek.com/232726/how-to-install-the-google-play-store-on-your-amazon-fire-tablet/

If you are wedded to Apple then go with an iPad but I have no experience of Apple stuff. Hope that helps.

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