90 Days in Turkey Spring 2022

[frwjd]

Day 186
Apologies to all of you who have been enjoying our posts and photos - none today. Today has been spent catching up on some things - including giving Dippy an internal Spring Clean - and also preparing for a friend who arrives in a few hours from UK to spend a few days enjoying this wonderful country with us.
Normal service will resume tomorrow!

 

[frwjd]

Day 187
Thursday 12th May

Good morning!
What a beautiful day, already in the 20's and 25C forecast.

Our friend John Bowker joined us last night so we're off to our local cafe/bar to have a traditional Turkish breakfast.

We'll also get the Dolmus to the market, have a walk around Fethiye center then along the sea front to Carikli Et.

Day 187
Our visitor from England, who is also named John, arrived safely from the airport last night after an uneventful flight! For ease of identification he will be referred to as "Young John". It's lovely to see him here and we both hope he enjoys his stay with us here in Fethiye.
Young John had messaged us when he left Dalaman Airport and we were expecting him to arrive here in a Taxi - imagine our surprise when he arrived in what appeared at first sight to be a Dolmus - we're not exactly on the route!
We had a good catchup into the wee small hours over a drink or two - or three - before falling into our beds. We've looked forward to welcoming our very first visitor here at our new rental apartment and hoped that he enjoys what the new day brings.
It was a beautiful day as we set off to the Angel Bar for breakfast, having lathered sun cream on every uncovered piece of skin. The sun was already very hot and we had a lot of walking to do today.
At the Angel, Young John was introduced to his very first Turkish Breakfast - I think there were 23 items on the table for him to try - where to start! There were pickles and meats and cheeses and salad, relishes and yogourt, honey still on the comb, olives, dates, figs, fresh bread and locally churned butter. The sweet and spicy aromas were enticingly diverse!
He tucked in with gusto, willing to try anything and everything - it was also his first sample of the delights of cay, which those of you who've tried it before will know is unlike just plain tea! Not just in flavour but also in the presentation of it as a Welcome gesture.
He seemed to enjoy it all!
Full to bursting, we took a stroll to the next experience - a Dolmus
Into town for the Market. The Dolmus was crammed to the gills with old people, students, young people, Mothers with prams - definitely standing room only!
We accidentally got off a stop too early and had to negotiate our way round the streets and alleyways to where we needed to be. Traffic was busy and the ever present scooters and motorbikes squeezed their way through tiny gaps in the traffic as we dodged across the road towards the market area.
We were expecting to see a mixture of stalls for fruit and vegetables, clothing, bags, handicrafts, spices, cheeses, nuts etc, it was to be a new experience - but Oh No - we'd mistaken the day! The car park was empty of the covered stalls we'd been expecting to find there.
Disappointed but undaunted, John threaded his way up and down roads and in and out of cars in search of the Halva, Turkish Delight and Baklava shops that were also on our list. We were soon in the area of the Fish Market and wound our way past the many shops with tantalising displays in their windows - the smell of sugar and honey were heavy in the air about us.
We stood outside and watched through the window as Young John was tempted by a pretty young lady displaying her wares - of Turkish Delight! She teased him with many titbits and tasters of all the various flavours as he followed in her footsteps around the shelves and stands of this delicious Turkish delicacy!
The next stop was for my favourite - Halva. You regular readers of our page will know that Halva is my reward after writing the evening's posts! The proprietor tried to persuade me to try the other various flavours but I remained true to my one love - Sesame flavour. Plain - Yes. But delicious!
John also bought me a container of fresh honey in the comb - I can't wait for tomorrow's breakfast!
The cheese shop was the third shop on the list - again, little tasters were offered, and accepted, as we strove to find something akin to the mature cheddar we have in UK.
We came close, with the proprietor's help, and bought a large chunk. Then he offered me a piece to try which he said was very good for toasting - I tried it - Oh my goodness, it made my eyes water and my throat constrict. He took one horrified look at my gasping face and yelled for water! An assistant came rushing to my aid, hastily unscrewing a bottle of water and offering it as he patted me on the back!
Once I'd recovered I was offered other samples to try. Not put off by my experience, I gamely tried them and - feeling a bit like Goldilocks - managed to communicate the fact in sign language that one was a bit too strong, one was a bit too mild - but the third one was just right!
The cashier - as with many people - asked where were we from, how long had we been in Turkey etc. We explained that we were travelling in a motorhome and this led to a big discussion as it's something he wanted to do.
The next area took us past a couple of butchers. John chatted with one butcher, getting an idea of what was available and the prices. The man was disappointed that we weren't buying that day, but we explained that we had lots to do before reaching home and the meat would suffer in the heat - we would come back another day with meat shopping in mind!
From the Fish Market, we went down to the harbour and sat in a small cafe for a cold drink. I asked for the Toilets and was told that they weren't available as there was a 5am - 5pm water cut off for the area! Disaster! We watched out for the public toilets as we walked back just in case they were in use but no luck.
The Address Bar was in better straits though! The toilets were in use but not the taps, however hand cleansing was easily done with hand sanitiser - so mission accomplished! The rest of the walk was a lot more comfortable!
Carikli Et for our main meal! As we wait for our food to be cooked I watch one of the waiters struggling to erect a huge sun umbrella. He struggled with it, trying to stop it from overbalancing in the increasingly strong wind coming off of the sea and eventually managed to open it fully.
Securing it's catch however, was another matter! He forced it upwards but it wouldn't slip into place, and every now and then it folded back up with him concealed inside it. Rather like the Triffid in the Sci Fi story of many years ago - it looked as if it was eating him!
Eventually another waiter came running to his aid - and was rewarded for his help with a mouthful of abuse for not coming sooner!
Our meals were delicious and the waiters entertaining! One in particular seemed determined to make us laugh, at one stage he came running past us in slow motion with the tiniest of tiny Chihuahua's on a long lead trying to keep up with him, it's little legs whirring madly!
A little while later the same waiter did an impromptu dance for us, and then teased John when he ordered a Raki - which he uses to help his digestion. There was an enormous round of applause from all the waiters when Young John - when challenged - downed his glass of Raki in one go - and stayed upright! A couple of the other waiters came and joined in the merriment and John persuaded them to have their photo taken with me!
A short taxi ride later and we were home again. It's been a good day! We're hoping that Young John may write something and post it later, of his feelings about his first day in Turkey. Watch this space!

 

[frwjd]

Day 188
Friday 13th May
Good morning
Another gorgeous day here with 25C forecast.
We're taking our visitor to the ruins at Tlos and will probably spend time in and around the pool.
Later we will visit Calis beach and our favourite chippy. Some photos from yesterday below.

This is a first, a guest writer! Our friend, John Bowker, is visiting us from the UK for a few days and has written about his first impressions......
I had no idea what to expect when visiting John and Wendy at their new abode near the Turquoise Coast. Arriving at night, the surroundings were closer to pitch black as the airport taxi meandered — quite literally — along a dual carriageway, revealing only silhouettes of mountainous terrain beyond the road.
The first morning in Turkey was bright and warm, a likely scenario that demanded a full slathering of Factor 50+ while sat on the apartment balcony. It overlooked the pool, which seren(Dippy)tously had been cleaned and refilled just the week prior, and the mountains I had glimpsed on the journey over; in the rising heat I was amazed to see the furthest peak covered in snow.
Off we set for breakfast at a neighbourhood cafe. John insisted I must have a “Turkish breakfast” and I imagined this to be some sort of variation on the usual cooked breakfast we have back in Blighty. No single-plate fry-up arrived, instead 25 separate dishes that filled the entire table, ranging from breads and cheeses to raisins in syrup and fresh honeycomb.
A short bus ride later we were in downtown Fethiye, a lively hub with a growing tourism industry and natural harbour. We searched for the Thursday outdoor market only to discover that it wasn’t taking place, but fortunately the permanent indoor market had plenty to see and was shaded from the midday temperature.
It struck me just how welcoming the community is here, and its relaxed vibe is just the tonic during my very fleeting visit to this fascinating part of the world. Tomorrow I’ll be forayed into some of the ancient history of the region, and at the end of my visit’s first day I can see why Wendy and John have become so enamoured with Turkey and its culture.

Day 188
A nice relaxed start to the day. Sat around the pool for a while and then steeled myself to actually swim in it! Friends and family will know that I'm not known for my swimming skills - mainly due to my total lack of co-ordination plus fear instilled as a child.
It took a while, but I eventually got up the courage to let go of the pool ladder and push myself off. The pool is deeper than my height so I can't just put my feet down if I get worried - once I started I had to finish!
I made it safely to the end (it's not a very big pool although it felt enormous at the time!) Step 2 was to have the nerve to turn around and swim back to the safety of the ladder. Made it!
Legs shaking, I managed to reach the safety of the sun lounger and collapsed in a little quivering heap, heart pounding while I recovered. Tomorrow - it won't be half as bad.
While I was lying there I had one of those "ear worms" repeating itself over and over in my head - "Jennifer Juniper" the 1968 song by Donovan. I'd have been 16 when I heard it on either tv or radio and it brought back many happy memories of those days.
Our destination today was 4,000 years old Tlos. We've been there before but our guest, "Young John", hasn't and we felt this was a fantastic example to show him some of the history that we explore on our travels.
We set off on our way, passing the busy towns on the route. As we pulled up at some traffic lights the driver of the white car in front of us leaped out and ran away! What on earth....? I felt very foolish when the lights changed and the car pulled slowly away ahead of us. I'd momentarily forgotten that the cars here are left hand drive so it was the passenger who'd abandoned ship and fled into the distance!
The snowy mountain tops were ahead of us as we passed through Camkoy, the boat yards on the left busy with repairs to the boats set up on trailers for easy access. Almost opposite were several scrap yards - the final destination for those doomed never to return to the sea, but possibly also a source of materials for repairs?
On our left at the traffic lights we sail past, is a tractor and trailer heavily laden with branches, a scattering of leaves left behind it to show it's route.The central reservation is filled with bushes bursting with bright pink flowers but we pass too quickly for me to identify them.
We in turn are passed - by a man on a motor scooter clutching a potted tree between his knees as he speeds past us, the upper branches whipping and flapping in the breeze of his momentum.
The many rivers we pass over have mostly been dry - or close to it. Rubbish has collected in the dry beds, the wind flipping the strips of plastic and paper in the breeze created by our passing. On the opposite side of the road is a factory selling brand new motor scooters and tractors, their colours bright and shining in the sunlight.
A tractor exits a newly ploughed field, weeds and grass dangling from the plough as it bounces up and down over the rough grass. The air is full of the scent of new tilled soil, a deep earthy smell mixed with the smell of the hot engine.
An elderly man, his back bent as he uses his stick to support his steps, moves carefully towards the Mosque, where other men are sitting in the shade of a tree. A table laden with small glasses of tea is between them as they chat. One of them leaps up and hurries to put a supporting arm round the elderly man as he reaches the steps and stops, obviously gathering his strength to tackle them.
We pass a tortoise gamely striding out across the road! There's no other traffic now so John swerves gently round him as we look up and see Tlos high above us. Our ascent now is slow, taking into account the twisting roads and the steepness of the incline.
The spot we parked in before was empty so John pulls in, tucking Dippy tight in to the side to keep the road clear for others. We were hoping to have some Pide for lunch but evidently there is only pancakes! So that's what we have!
Tummies momentarily satisfied and leaving John in charge of Dippy, Young John and I set off up the hill to the ticket office - 15 TL each.
It's a scramble and the rocks are unstable under our feet, so great care has to be taken especially as in some areas the ground next to you just falls away. We're soon peering into the rock tombs that abound in this fortress - one of which is said to be dedicated to Pegasus, the winged horse of Bellerophon.
The path spirals gradually upwards, towards the Acropolis - I leave Young John to explore this part by himself as I don't feel my more elderly joints will cope! He reaches the top to see the fantastic views and I take a long distance shot of him by the Turkish flag.
Photos taken, we descend to the road level again and walk along the road to the Arches that formed part of the great Market and then to the Theatre with it's great tiered seats.
The Temple of Chronos is still visually in very good condition but was, as with some other sections, barriered off due to the danger of falling masonry.
The sun was incredibly hot and we had begun to wilt by this stage so headed back to meet up with John and go and liberate some ice cream from the shop's giant freezer!
As we sat eating them we saw yet another tortoise crossing the road - or at least it was trying to! An elderly lady on a stool used her stick to turn the tortoise around each time it came close to safety. It was therefore in danger of being run over by the next car to come along!
Before we could intervene it was saved by some tourists who stopped to photograph it, thereby causing a diversion from which it managed to "hurriedly" scamper at the speed of a setting jelly into the grass verge and safety.
Hot and tired, we headed back to Ciflik to park Dippy up and from there walked along Calis Beach and eventually to the Fish and Chip shop by the bridge across the river. (via a Bar and some cold drinks!) A taxi ride back completed our hot and busy day having shown Young John some of the ancient culture to be found in this beautiful country.

 

[frwjd]

Day 189
Saturday 14th May
Good afternoon
25C today
A quiet morning in and out of the sun. I've just watered the garden and veg patch, the first time I haven't been soaked in the process
Young John is taking one for the team this afternoon, he's going to the local Hammam, I hope he'll write up his experience for us.
This afternoon and evening will be spent lounging in or by the pool then a walk to one of the beach bars for dinner.
Sadly young John will be leaving us tonight it's been really good to have him around and we look forward to his next visit.

Day 189
Today was our friend Young John's last day with us in Turkey. As part of the "Turkish Experience" John had booked him into a session at the Hammam in Calis Beach.
We drove him in and dropped him off while we wandered down to the beach area itself for a stroll in the sunshine. It was a bright and breezy day as we sat in a bar and watched the windsurfers speeding along just offshore.
Their aerobatics were breathtaking as they raced along, catching the wind then twisted and turned high into the air as their sail caught the uplift before dropping back down to skip along the waves.
The seafront was full of advertising boards for the various excursions and experiences - the Saklikent Gorge, Paragliding over the Blue Lagoon, Scuba Diving and Snorkelling. John confessed to me that Paragliding was something he'd like to experience! I need to investigate this further!
We wandered back along the beach to where we'd parked Dippy, next to the river. There were a couple of Ducks swimming along, each with their brood of ducklings following in their wake, webbed feet paddling furiously below the surface of the murky waters.
An elderly man wandered along the path bordering the river bank, fishing rod over his shoulder as he scanned the waters. Every minute or two there would be a flash of silver as fish threw themselves into the air to snatch at the insects flying about! A Fisherman's Paradise, surely! It was actually quite entertaining to see them flinging themselves acrobatically into the air!
The Fisherman thought so too! He settled himself down on a cushion pulled from his backpack and assembled his rod section by section, eventually casting far into the centre of the waters.
We sat back and watched him idly. The ducks paddled past him, then back again, an inverted "V" trailing behind them. Meanwhile the fish leapt. And leapt! And leapt! They leapt to the left of the fisherman. They leapt to the right of the fisherman. They leapt in front of him - they only didn't leap behind him because the road was there!
When Young John re-joined us after 2 hours of pampering in the Hammam he was invigorated and enthusiastic about his experience. He's kindly agreed to write about it and forward it to us to post when he returns to UK so that we can include it on a post for our followers. Watch this space!
We drove Dippy back to the apartment and then walked down to the beach to the Mekan Bar for some food. We were met by a welcoming committee of 2 large dogs, 2 puppies and a goat.
I avoided the goat, but the dogs were very entertaining, especially when one -"Caramel", started digging ferociously in the soft sandy soil near our table eventually unearthing a plastic bottle and then a root.
The root proved to be about 6ft long and Caramel backed away with it in her teeth, tugging and tugging as it slowly "pinged" up out of the soil. I had visions of the tree next to her being dragged infinitessimaly slowly below ground level at the same time as the root was pulled up!
We had a delicious meal of Lahmacun, Chicken in mushroom sauce, Chicken Shish and then Pancakes with sugar and lemon. Delicious! It was washed down with beer, white wine and Raki - a delicious Farewell meal!
We're now sat waiting for Young John's taxi to arrive to take him to the airport. It's been a lovely few days - over too quickly! Safe travels Young John, thanks for visiting and hope to see you again soon!

 

[frwjd]

Day 190 - a day late!
Apologies for this being a day late, however we were back late from the Angel Bar, the internet was playing up - and I was very tired! So we decided to hold the post over until this morning.
First - and most importantly - we heard that Young John had arrived safely home and is going to send us a post for you all to read about his experiences in the Hammam, and also about his overall view of his visit to Turkey.
Our morning started hot and bright, with a fierce breeze that deceived you into thinking it was cooler than it really was! The pool beckoned seductively but washing had to take priority. The washing part was easy - the difficult part was stopping it from ending up in the pool!
There seemed to be less dust than usual. A day or two ago I'd read that the interminable roadworks were - hopefully - going to be over by mid-July. This will mean not only less dust but also less traffic disturbances too, we hope.
The flowers are in full bloom everywhere, not just the beautiful Wisteria that scrambles over every upright structure but also Roses in all shades of red and pink all offset by the white ones. I've seen a few yellow ones, but not many.
On one of the trips onto the balcony to hang out yet more washing I glanced left and saw that the spoil-heap of soil from the building site opposite us is showing a mass of red poppies - mine and John's favourites! The new houses themselves are moving on rapidly - the metal roof struts are now being welded into place.
Down below me, John has been busy with the hose pipe. He's cleaned the layer of dust from each of the pool loungers and cleaned the tiles too. Moving across to the table and chairs under the shady arbour, he calls up to me. When I poke my head over the railing he motions with his hand towards the pool.
Swifts are swooping in to dip gracefully into the water of the pool, skimming along and then soaring up again into the air, performing an aerial ballet as they evade each other. It's a stunning display to watch and I stand mesmerised by the skill of their performance!
A few hours later we ambled along the road to the Angel Bar for a BBQ and music. It soon became quite busy with lots of Turkish families and some Brits too. The smell of wood smoke and meat cooking had wafted over us as we arrived. There was an array of various cuts of beef, lamb and chicken. Salads, dressings and a few things I couldn't identify - possibly a potato and egg combination, a pastry roll containing mince? I'm still getting to grips with the many Turkish dishes!
There was a stunning full moon rising in the background - a full eclipse of the moon had been predicted for 4.30am. I doubted that I'd be up to watch it however! In the meantime this moon was full and glowing a gentle shade of orangey-yellow.
The musician was getting set up - with the help of bar staff who suddenly decided to move him and his equipment to the low verandah of one of the ground floor rooms. Near disaster happened when they realised that they were trying to move some of it without unplugging it from the mains first!
The musician - and his music - weren't appreciated by everyone however, I enjoyed it! Music from my teens and twenties (and even my thirties) that brought back many happy memories of the local pub and a local group with a local singer, who sang anything and everything - just because they enjoyed it!
Then it was the turn of the Turkish music to be played! The men at the table behind us were soon up and dancing - fuelled by MUCH drinking of Raki! Fingers pointing to the skies they stamped and kicked and twirled around each other as their women looked on, clapping to the beat enthusiastically. Their steps were unsteady but their enjoyment was infectious!
We eventually made a gracious exit and set off for home and bed. However, at 4.30am the alarm went off! John wanted to see the eclipse! I was NOT amused!

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[frwjd]

Day 191
A day of necessary paperwork for me meant another quiet day as far as travelling was concerned. So - in between - I've checked out some things in the area that other travellers who follow in our footsteps may be interested in. Many of them are available with the local tour companies as day trips etc.
Butterfly Valley.
The valley itself is situated near Babadag and consists of a narrow 2 mile long canyon with 2 waterfalls falling over 200 ft into the abyss. The area is a designated nature reserve and is popular for camping, canoeing, hiking and scuba diving and can be reached best by boat - a shuttle service runs hourly from Oludeniz.
There are over 147 species of flowers and 105 species of butterflies, so a must for photographers!
The Blue Lagoon at Oludeniz.
The waters here are a conjunction of both the Aegean and the Mediterranean, dead calm and a beautiful shade of turquoise blue making it very popular for scuba diving! The Blue Flag beach is mostly pebbles and the area is a national Nature Reserve so no construction is allowed. It's stable weather makes it a hotspot for Paragliding and an annual 6 day, 150 mile Ultramarathon is run (pardon the pun) from here to Antalya, along the Lycian Way.
Dalyan Turtle Sanctuary
Run by a charity, the sanctuary rescues and treats injured Loggerhead Turtles and is always open to visitors - any small donations go to help this worthy cause. The nearby beach is where they lay their eggs between April and May, then August and September is the hatching time for these giant marine turtles.
Koycegiz Mud baths.
Does exactly what it says on the tin! I gather the idea is to roll around covering yourself in mud, lay in the sun and let it dry hard and then go and wash it off. My Mum would have had my guts for garters for doing this! Supposedly - when you're clean again, your skin feels baby soft!
So - a few ideas for day trips to keep you busy. Enjoy!

 

[frwjd]

Day 192
Tuesday 17th May
Good afternoon
The temperatures are really ramping up now and 29C forecast today, far more than I can cope with so I'll be doing my best to stay cool.
Not much going on today but I will be getting my hair cut and we'll be prepping Dippy for the trip to see friends at Dalyan tomorrow, it's only a one night stopover.
Have a good day!

Day 192
Another beautiful day when I woke up this morning! I don't think it will ever get boring, waking to sunshine instead of twitching the curtains open in the ambitious hope that maybe it won't be raining again! UK weather is unpredictable at best, the weather forecast often feels like it's a game of chance rather than science!
Today's plan - or lack of - involved John going for a haircut! Those of you who have followed us from the early days of the "Travels" page will possibly remember the palava of his previous haircut. Not quite traumatic - but definitely never to be forgotten!
Today's foray to the Barber's however, was uneventful - to the extent that he parked outside some shops and left me to protect Dippy while he was gone and was back almost before I'd got settled! 12 minutes in fact! It surely must have been the quickest haircut in history!
Following on from the activities I wrote about yesterday - have you ever considered White Water Rafting on the Dalaman? The idea intrigues me - but as an extremely poor swimmer it's really not an option! It does appeal to many holidaymakers to Turkey though.
The day starts off with teaching you how to paddle the raft correctly before throwing you in the deep end - maybe that's not a very good way of putting it - before you experience the full on thrill of the Dalaman river in full flood! There are breaks to just enjoy swimming in the calmer stretches and to take time out for lunch too.
If dry land is more your thing - what about Quad Biking? There are day excursions for this activity in the rugged Taurus Mountains. You can zoom around the pine scented forests along the dirt trails and even in the sand dunes! No driving license required for this activity so even I could attempt this one! I can imagine this one being a thrill a minute!
Taking the ferry from Fethiye to Rhodes looks interesting! Lovely beaches, Lindos archaeological site and Byzantine ruins at Filerimos - sounds like a busy day trip! This could be one for us to look into! As long as the weather is good and the sea is calm!

 

[frwjd]

Day 193
Wednesday 18th May
Good afternoon
The forecast is 26C today but it seemed hotter at 9am!
Today we're going to drive to Dalyan where we'll meet Wendy's friends Jill and John tomorrow.
First we must get a new SIM card for the Mifi.
When you enter Turkey any SIM card purchase is recorded against your passport and automatically expires after 90 days.
If you stay longer than that you must get a new SIM card and, therefore, number.

Day 193 - a day late!
It was very late by the time we got back to Dippy last night so I held the post over. We're now back safely in Ciftlik, Fethiye and hooked up to the Internet - so here goes.
We're off to Dalyan today to catch up with some friends from UK who are out here on holiday. We became friends when they joined the Archery Classes that I taught at Permastore and we last saw them when we were on our way to the Chunnel to start our trip in Dippy III, 193 days ago!
We'd stopped overnight in Hoxne (in Suffolk) the next village over from Eye, where I lived and worked for almost 30 years and were lucky enough to meet up with several friends before leaving on the trip. It seems like a lifetime ago!
It was a bright morning, with a stiff breeze blowing! We had to go via a Turkcell shop first, as the Mifi needed to be updated so that we had internet coverage. Luckily everywhere was quite quiet so we sailed in and sailed out again!
Somewhere around Kargi a woman on a motor scooter caused mayhem by indicating one way and turning the opposite way! Cars swerved and skidded round her as she carried on - oblivious to the blaring horns and shouts of the other drivers!
We wound our way along surrounded by the high hills, dense with trees and bushes between the craggy rocks. The air clarity is still dusty and swirls of it fly up as the traffic passes, coating everything in grey.
We pass lots of tractors pulling trailers piled high with vegetables, branches, all sorts of greenery spilling over the sides. Some of the trailers have garden furniture instead, plastic tables and chairs being transported to the bars and restaurants that are now beginning to re-open.
The fields are now filling with green plants sprouting and flourishing. The houses are having shutters taken off the windows, and the pools - so often full of dirty green slime are now brimming with fresh clean water. Tourist season!
Along the roadside, Rhododendrons are covered in bright pink and red flowers, reminding me of my children playing hide and seek in the thick bushes of their Grandma's garden in Surrey. A never ending delight of summer holidays. These bushes conceal a police car and 2 policemen drinking from plastic cups!
To our right, the houses march in tiers towards the heights of the hill, all of them appear to be balanced precariously on the steep sides - they probably command amazing views though!
The small truck stops are busy with drivers quenching their thirst before continuing their journeys, enjoying the shade of the great trees over their heads., Dust devils swirl around them with the passing traffic.
We pass an unusual workshop at the side of the road - a carpenter! His shop front is open and he sits working a lathe, the swirls of peeled wood sweeping into blonde curls that drop to the ground and then flutter away in the breeze. He has chairs and coffee tables, a bookcase and lampstands all on the ground around him for prospective customers to see. A craftsman at work.
We sail into Dalyan and head for the coach park we parked at before. The place isn't too busy yet but the spots under the trees in the shade are already taken. We'll keep an eye on things and move later if we need to.
We eat an ice cream each as we stroll along the river, we've been here before and it's a lovely spot! The 4th century BC rock tombs high in the cliffs are just as eye catching as they were last time! There were 170 originally we're told. Unaccessible now they're still eye catching from the riverside.
Above our heads an enormous German Shepherd is barking ferociously as it hangs over the 1st floor balcony of it's home. Down below is the object of it's fury - a Golden Retriever. The Retriever sits and wags it's tail calmly, a smug grin on it's face as it looks up. It then rolls onto it's back on the ground and seems to grin at the German Shepherd, then gets up and casually walks away, swinging it's hips as if to say - "I've wound you up. My work here is done!" The German Shepherd is having an absolute meltdown at this provocation and is still barking as we move away into the shade.
We stopped for a cold drink and got chatting to an Englishman and an Irishman in the bar - that sounds like the start of a joke! It isn't though! We had a very informative chat with the 2 of them, who have lived here for over 20 years and were a mine of information for us.
At last it was time to meet up with Jill and John! We found the meeting place - the Efe Bar and sat down with cold drinks and waited, and waited. We suddenly had a horrible thought - were we in the wrong bar?
I sent Jill a quick text and she appeared next to us almost immediately! We were at the front entrance, where there were just a few tables and chairs and they were in the rear end of the Bar which was much bigger! John had been sent in the opposite direction to find us but soon re-appeared!
The next few hours were spent having a delightful catchup not only on each other but also on other friends of mine back in Eye! It was so good to hear all about the happenings of the last couple of years and also to laugh as we reminisced about people and situations. I was very happy there and still miss it and the friends I made.
It was a lovely evening with good company and we eventually parted with many promises for catching up again when we return to UK in a few months time.

 

[frwjd]

Day 194
Thursday 19th May
Good morning.
27C today!
We're going to have a full English breakfast at the nearest restaurant then will be heading back to Fethiye.

Day 194
Yesterday's bitter wind had blown itself away during the night and we woke to a much calmer and therefore warmer morning. A quick coffee to get our brains into gear and we decided that a cooked breakfast was in order!
We headed across to the beach restaurants and checked the menu's for the best option. The staff in all of the restaurants were hosing down the patio floors and it washed gently down the steps and across the path, draining off into the river.
An elderly English woman came slowly up the steps and a waiter rushed to give her a steadying arm to hold as he escorted her courteously to a bench, plumping the cushions behind her as she settled herself. We've noticed how polite and accommodating most of the waiting staff are, especially with their elderly clients!
Last night's blare of music has been replaced with a gentler, more soothing tempo, very relaxing as we sat under the palm trees and studied the menus at the Okyanus Bar.
It was no contest really - we hadn't had a full English Breakfast since Nov 7th, as we readied to leave the UK. We waited in anticipation, watching the dragonflies flitting to and fro nearby, the first few boats were already moving back and forth along the river.
When it arrived - we weren't disappointed! It looked and smelled delicious! A cat came and sat patiently waiting to see if she'd be invited to join us, eyes huge and appealing!
That first mouthfull was savoured slowly! The rest was wolfed down! The barest scrap of bacon fat was left for Mrs. Cat to enjoy with us when we finished - all that was left on the plate was the smear of baked beans!
The waiter came and enquired if everything had been ok and we assured him that we'd enjoyed every mouthful. He was intrigued to hear how long we'd been travelling and confessed that it was a dream of his and his wife's to have a karavan and do the same as us - once the children were grown and not at home anymore, that is!
We walked slowly back to Dippy and battened down the hatches ready to leave. The coach park was rapidly filling with tour coaches and one spilled it's bus load of young students onto the walkway, all of them laughing with each other as they headed towards the beach.
We found out later that today was Attaturk Youth and Sports Day, when the youngsters re-enact important moments in Turkish History and perform traditional folk dances. Whether this was to do with that or just a day at the beach, we don't know! We hope they enjoyed whatever they did!
We reached home uneventfully and started to unload Dippy and move things across to the apartment when disaster struck! On the second trip to Dippy, the apartment door blew shut - with the keys on the INSIDE of the door! Also inside were our Phones! The only lucky part to this is that John had decided to NOT cook the chicken we were going to have tonight - consequently it was still in the fridge rather than in the oven!
An embarrassing visit to our lovely upstairs neighbour solved the problem, with much pantomime sign language I managed to relay the situation, she then managed to contact her husband, who in turn contacted our landlord's sister, who has a spare key! However, she was still at work for the next hour so would come when she was finished!
We pottered about in Dippy for a bit and then sat in the garden in the evening sunshine to wait. In the meantime, I visualised how to climb the metal framed grapevine encrusted arbour to reach the balcony! However - possibly due to my age - John wasn't keen on me trying it!
Help eventually arrived in the shape of the landlord's sister - Ooma (apologies for guessing at a close approximation of the correct spelling of her name!) but the problem was compounded by the fact that the keys were in the lock on the INSIDE of the door thus preventing the spare key from being any help.
Nothing daunted - Ooma climbed the arbour but could only reach so far - but not far enough. As she descended I pointed out a different route to her, the one I'd planned earlier - success! She scrambled up and over our balcony railings and opened the door from the inside!
The rest of our evening has been very - quiet!

 

[nicholsong]

How come you got bacon on your Full English?

Most English in Turkey will kill to get hands on any bacon that boats will bring in from Rhodes or Kos. Maybe somebody from the restaurants takes a weekly day trip to Greece and drops the customs man the usual - and maybe a packet of bacon also?

Or maybe things have changed, but I thought Erdogan was making Turkey less secular and more Islamic. What is your opinion?

Geoff

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[frwjd]

Hi Geoff

I'm sorry but I was sure I had answered this!?

I believe there are 70k Brits living on this coast plus all those visiting on holiday. Many of the restaurants offer a full English and, in Fethiye, there's a specialist pork butcher, not visited yet.

I try no to get involved in Turkish polirics but I did google the Islam v secular issue a couple of weeks ago.
It seems that although the President is pushing towards Islam it just isn't working and there are less practicing Muslims year on year. The majority of the population are young people and they're not listening. I read only between 8 and 11% of Muslims are visiting mosques, no idea how accurate that is. As a tourist there are towns that are Islamic but, in general, Turkey appears to be as western as anywhere in Europe.

 

[frwjd]

Day 195
Friday 20th May
Good morning
25C here today and next week sees temperatures climbing closer to 30C
Some important personal business to attend to today but we have young John's review of his Hammam experience to post later
It's weekend, enjoy!

Day 195
Today's post is courtesy of "Young" John, our recent guest, who gallantly acted as "Guinea Pig" for us!
Monday morning, on the Manchester Airport train - this time en route to work, not a holiday - and I was remembering the Turkish Hammam Spa experience I had just a few days before.
"Are you John?"
"Er, Yes and No!" John D had booked the session but was unable to attend, so I was there solo.
I was guided through what would take place and shown the changing room. One crucial detail however was unclear; do I keep my underwear on? You're given a thin linen towel to wrap around you, but having nothing on underneath seemed a bit awkward. (But then again you're to be washed and don't want your undergarments soaking wet afterwards?)
Panic. In a last second decision I took them off and made sure the towel was extra securely fastened before I waddled through the reception area and down to the spa.
With some complimentary soda water I went to sit in the sauna for 15 minutes. "It were 'ot!" Then on to the steam room. After a short while I was collected by one of the spa attendants and was asked to lie down before being scrubbed from head to toe and then lathered with warm foam.
There were a few awkward moments when gestured to sit up or turn over - details spared for the benefit of all - after which I was drenched with water and guided out of the spa to change into a new towel.
The Hammam experience continued with a break and some Turkish apple tea, and then onwards to a massage and then unexpectedly, a few moments of chiropractics! With my neck vertebrae still intact and leg muscles a little sore, I tottered down the steps and out into the afternoon sunshine.
It was an unforgettable experience and fully recommended to anyone visiting Turkey.
Young John - thank you for acting as "guinea pig" for us and also for taking note of the experience for the benefit of our readers. You're a star!

 

[frwjd]

Day 196
We have thunderstorms predicted for today so have got up to date with the housework - including the washing. Not as silly as it sounds - the breeze on our balcony means things dry quickly - as long as you can stop them from blowing away.
As I got busy with the pegs I noticed that the 3 houses being built opposite us had 4 workmen setting themselves ready for work. The last couple of days have seen the metal struts for the roof hoisted into place and welded together, sparks flying in the sunlight.
There had been the occasional mishap as they were passed hand to hand from the ground to the roof, some of them falling with a great clanging of metal on metal as someone fumbled the pass. No screams of pain or horror as of people falling though, so that's something!
I hadn't expected to see them working today though as it's Saturday! Maybe there's a rush on to get the houses finished and up for sale?
It's not long before they're hosing the concrete floors down and using brooms to sweep the water off the structure, great floods of grey water cascading down to the ground.
All 4 of them start laying the bricks for the upstairs outside walls and the spaces were soon being filled in, leaving only gaps where the windows would eventually be. It looks as if they're bricking themselves into a great prison.
They've made great progress by lunchtime and take a break to eat, squatting in the shade of the ground floor as they laugh and chat with each other.
It's been breezy all morning but now the wind increases to almost a gale, dust devils dance along the road below me and I make a hasty grab for the washing as it threatens to blow away. The palm tree next to us bends and sways with the force of it, fronds fluttering madly as they whip backwards and forwards. Banks of cloud scud past in great roiling drifts of pale grey, spilling over the mountains that surround us.
A large van and a car arrive and their occupants busy themselves moving things on the building site. The sound of a heavy engine to my right pulls my attention round to the end of the road, where a concrete mixer truck slowly makes it's way towards the site, it's barrel rotating ponderously.
50 yards behind it, trundles the vehicle whose official name I don't know, but it's the one that sucks the concrete out, up a great tube, and then spits it out again, depositing it where it needs to go.Those of you of a certain age may remember Gracie Fields sing the Thingummybob song? It's like that!
Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tensing - the goats - are atop the spoilheap eating the scarlet poppies and blatting fiercely at the machinery making all the noise and disturbing their lunch!
The concrete mixer truck has arrived at the site but can't get past the van so sound their horn repeatedly - and are ignored. So the driver decides to edge his way past Dippy's rear end. John and I watch with bated breath, just waiting for the least little judder to show that they've mis-judged the angle!
The concrete sucking machine (which is a little smaller than the mixer) eases itself carefully into place allowing the concrete mixer to now ease itself back past Dippy again and reverse into position.
The concrete sucking machine is now able to extend it's extremely long arm, to which is fixed the other end of the tube, up towards the roof level of the nearest house where it's grabbed by one of the workmen, leaning outwards precariously. (I'm not sure that Health and Safety exist in Turkey!) The concrete is now sucked up the tube from the mixer truck and deposited where needed.
Fascinating to watch - not so easy to describe!!!
The process is repeated on the other 2 houses but before it's finished - another lorry turns up! This one is a double sized lorry carrying bricks! The road is now impassable in all directions - especially as the Van STILL hasn't been moved!
To compound all this - they're then joined by a heavy duty fork lift truck which has come to unload the brick lorry - which is now therefore trapped between the heavy duty fork lift truck and the cement lorry!
The mess was eventually untangled with much jiggling backwards and forwards, arm waving and shouting - and someone FINALLY moving the van!
I do hope they don't work tomorrow!

 

[frwjd]

Day 197
This morning started with a short walk down to the nearest shop for some bread for breakfast. The Nazar Garden Hotel was full of people as I passed it, mostly children queuing to have their photos taken as their parents looked on.
Their water slides were in full operation and the screams of excited children rent the air as they hurled themselves down the curving chutes in great sprays of cold water. It's already very hot and I watch a little enviously, however our own pool will be put to good use a bit later, I'm sure!
Music was blaring out - as it had been last night too! It had stopped at Midnight thank goodness, but has shown us what living in a tourist area is like when the season starts. I had earplugs in and although they deadened the sound to a certain extent it was still noticeable. I think it's one of those times when John's glad his hearing aids rarely work!
I turned back into our road to be greeted by the long haired German Shepherd from the local Bar, pottering about the grass verge near the rubbish skips. He wagged his tail politely when I greeted him and sniffed the bag of bread hopefully - "No chance mate, this is for me, not you!" A big sigh and he strolled back the way he'd come.
A motor scooter pulled up next to me, carrier bags dangling each side of it. I greet the lady driver as she peers into the rubbish skip, dangling over the edge to retrieve anything plastic that she can take for re-cycling. Her response of "Merhaba" echoes eerily from the depths, her feet wiggling to keep her balance so she doesn't fall in.
The clatter of a vehicle belting along the road pulls my attention from her. It's a flat bed truck, kicking up great clouds of dust into the air as it speeds towards me. I can hear excited shrieks coming from it and as it passes I see there are 2 children aged about 10, balancing in the open rear. Their arms are outstretched as they try to stay upright without holding on to anything, hair flying as the truck bounces up and down on the uneven road surface! My heart's in my mouth as they disappear into the distance.
After breakfast we decide to go for a drive and look for the Sunday Car Boot sale/Sunday Market and head for the Camkoy area. We just potter along enjoying the scenery and the sunshine and spot a car boot sale across a field - we'll investigate that one at some point, maybe on the way back - we're in no rush.
This rural area looks hot and dusty, there's been no real rain for a while but thunderstorms are predicted for later. I can imagine they'll be very welcome. Over to my left is an enormous area that has obviously recently been the target of tree felling. The trunks are trimmed and neatly stacked ready for transporting, and as I watch a lorry appears from the lane next to it, stacked high with timber.
I do a double take as we pass a narrow road where the tree at the entrance has an animal skull nailed to it - sheep or goat? Is it an advertisement for a butcher - or a warning of "Abandon hope all ye who enter here!"?
The rain has started as we approach the market, nothing major but a steady fall, none the less. We edge our way along the narrowing road, lined on both sides with vehicles of all descriptions - selling animals of all descriptions! Chickens and chicks, ducks and ducklings, sheep, goats - one sticks it's head out of the back of a truck as Dippy's open window passes it - John nearly had a face wash with it's long tongue!
We park up and wander back to see what's available. Mostly fruit and veg but also plastic buckets, brooms, mops etc. Clothes - new and second-hand, shoes etc. Plants, carpets, rugs and blankets. An enormous variety. The place is a heaving maelstrom of people and we squeeze our way though. The smells are of bread/cakes, the earthiness of the many root vegetables, wood smoke from the hot snack area, the smell of hot tea brewing - the smell of wet goat!
We spot carrots! Not something we've come across often, so buy some of those and some strawberries too, plus some little cherry tomatoes. We pay the lady, but are 2 TL short as we only have notes and no coins. She has no change either so waves us away with a smile, letting us off. A few yards on I remember that in the dark recess of one of my many pockets I have some coins - usually needed for the loo! We head back and pay her - she does a double take and laughs. How many people go back to settle their debt - equally, how many people are generous enough to wave away a genuine shortfall in payment?
The rain increases as we head back and once inside the thunder and lightning start. The rain is heavy but not dreadfully so, however the layers of dust are washed off of the trees and shrubs and everything takes on a more vibrant hue. You can smell the soil as the rain soaks into it and smell the lightning as it sears across the sky - a hot smell as of something singeing!
And of course, with the rain and the sun come rainbows!

The photo below was copied from a Fethiye related FB group.

 

[frwjd]

Day 198
Monday 23rd May
Good morning
Already very warm and 28C forecast.
We enjoyed yesterday's drive in the mountains but didn't stop anywhere because of the thunderstorm.
Today we'll return to Yesil Uzumlu as it seemed a lovely little town.

Day 198
After yesterday's storms, today dawned hot and dry. We had a leisurely breakfast, last night had been a disturbed one with several ambulance sirens in the background to our sleep so we were still drowsy.
We set off for Uzumlu before lunch and were soon passing the open park areas and grassy spots that had been busy with picnics and BBQ's yesterday afternoon. Today they were empty and smoke free. However, many of the little water shrines now have vans parked at them, with tables and chairs set up. Lots of the vans have their rear doors open, displaying gas bottles and portable BBQ grills which are being pulled out and set up at the roadside to become food stops for passing drivers.
When we reach Uzumlu we're struck by what a peaceful little place it is. There are many English voices around us but whether they're tourists or residents, we don't have time to find out! They had all had lunch and are dispersing as we start up the main street. Our footsteps took us up towards the turns for Cadianda - a site we will be visiting at some point, but not today.
Most of the buildings here in the centre are old and the style is almost Tudor-like. Overhanging wooden balconies, enclosed by glass windows, timber framed buildings with stout wood doors bring a touch of Olde Worlde glamour to it. The outskirts had shown us the modern side with the villas and apartments, Police Station, Dispensing Chemist, Post Office, Bakers and a Butchers plus 2 petrol stations. It made a nice mix!
They also had a Wine Shop! Small, and so dark that I nearly asked them to put the lights on, but John selected 2 bottles to take away with us. (A small glass of one of them has just appeared at my elbow!)
We appeared to have reached the end of the Town Centre in record time, so clambered back into Dippy and headed for our 2nd stop - up and over the mountains to Cameli.
Our route takes us past lots of expensive looking villas as we climb ever upwards. They have fencing and locked gates and signs with ferocious looking dogs on them!
As we climb in great spirals round the mountain we pass 2 dead trees balanced precariously on the edge of the precipice. Their branches are intertwined as if they are doomed lovers in a death pact, about to plunge together over the edge of the cliff to their deaths below.
There have been many rockfalls and the edge of the roadside is littered with great chunks of fallen cliff, water cascading down in mini waterfalls, washing mud and smaller stones with them. High up, many tree's roots have been exposed by the deluge and they seem ready to topple at any time, barely clinging to their original place.
I look left and can see the ridge of mountains to that side - not very far away at all, streaks of white snow angling downwards from the heights, like dripping icing on a cake. The snow markers have been with us for a while and we pass a sign telling us we're at a height of 1500 metres. John points to a large tortoise gamely crossing the road to the side of us - his gaze fixed firmly on the safety of the bushes as he plods on.
We've barely had any traffic pass us - in any direction, if we were to break down up here it could be quite a problem! The views are lovely though!
We drift thankfully into Cameli and park up in the town square next to an open eating area. The sign on the nearby kiosk advertises Hamburgers among other things and we realise how hungry we are! The waitress however, doesn't understand what we want so goes for help! The young man doesn't either! When they finally disappear we're not entirely sure what we'll get! Especially when the young man surrepticiously legs it around the back of what seems to be the Police Station!
We sit back and admire the lovely little square, flower borders, large shady trees, a few old men discussing the troubles of the world over their tea! Peaceful!
The young man reappears at our side and tells us something about Coca Cola - which we'd ordered with our Hamburgers - we just agree with him and he trots happily away - returning with 2 bottles of what tasted like the Cream Soda we used to drink when we were kids. The Coca Cola was off, evidently! We're now wondering what the Hamburgers will turn out to be!
The Hamburgers turn out to be - Delicious! Although, we're not sure where they were cooked - definitely not in the immediate vicinity as the young man received a phone call and scuttled behind the Police Station again, reappearing 5 minutes later with the plates!
When the bill is asked for he tells us in Turkish - which of course, we don't understand! I get him to write it down on my pad - 60TL. I attempted to get him to repeat the words for me so I can learn the pronounciation for 60 but unfortunately, he doesn't understand. A lovely little interlude though!

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[frwjd]

Day 199
Tonight's post has come about via a throw away comment from John! "Did you know the James Bond film, Skyfall, was filmed here in Turkey?"
As it happens - I did! However that was the sum of my knowledge on the matter. It pricked my interest though. Enough for me to do a little investigating into the topic!
The fight scenes in "Skyfall" on top of the moving train were filmed around Adana, while the chase scenes took place in, around - and on the roof of - the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul! The first scenes were near the Yeni Cami mosque and the Spice Bazaar and I gather that the filming in the bar with the scorpion was shot at Sarigerme Beach near Dalaman. The original film sets and lots of equipment were badly damaged before filming started - by 80mph winds! So they had to start again!
Another James Bond film - From Russia With Love - was also filmed around Istanbul, including near the Hagia Sophia and using the Sirkeci railway station. While "The World Is Not Enough" filmed around Istanbul and also used the "Maiden's Tower", based on a small islet near the entrance to the Bosphorus Straits.
The Liam Neesen "Taken" films - both 1 and 2 - were also Istanbul filming locations while one of my all time favourites - The Water Diviner - starring Russel Crowe REALLY went to town, with locations including the Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque, Tlos, Fethiye, Kayakoy, Kalkan, Lycia and Cannakale!
How often, when we watch something on tv or the big screen, do we say - "I've been there!"
Well, John and I can say that about those locations - all except Kayakoy - which is still on our "to do" list.

 

[frwjd]

Day 200
Wednesday 25th May
Wow, day 200!
We didn't have any expectations when we left the UK only that we would have to face numerous different challenges along the way.
It was planned to be an 11 month trip returning to the UK on or before 7th October 2022 and Turkey was our final goal.
We entered Turkey on February 7th, are still enjoying this amazing country and still have so much more to see.
The heat is now a challenge for me as I knew it would be but it's perfect for Wendy .
The forecast for the next week is between 27 and 30C! We don't have any celebration planned but might think of something later.

No post this evening as Wendy has been poorly all day. Let's see what tomorrow brings.

 

[frwjd]

Day 201
Thursday 26th May
Good morning
32C forecast today!
Wendy is still under the weather so it will be another quiet day, we all need them don't we!?
I have to go into Fethiye to meet our "advisors" and re-register Dippy on my passport. I also have questions for them regarding various practicalities and legalities about our stay and travels.

Day 201
Unfortunately, I slept through most of Day 200 and most of today as well! Thank you all for the Get Well wishes, they're much appreciated.
Many years ago I was treated - repeatedly- for sore throat and earache. My GP at the time diagnosed it as Tonsilitis and treated it with anti-biotics on a more or less monthly basis. When she went on holiday, her Locum saw me, read my notes, and sent me to the Cottage Hospital next door. A few days later I had to have a cancerous tumour removed from my throat. I still suffer from occasional bouts of sore throat and earache which tend to be bad enough to completely floor me! However, it usually only lasts a few days, thank goodness! John has managed to look after me for the last couple of days, plus running around with other things, to do with Dippy etc.
Tonight, I've managed to make it to the Angel Bar (with John's steady hand) and eat a pancake - so must be on the way to recovery!
I hope that normal service will be resumed tomorrow!
Thank you all once again.

 

[frwjd]

Day 202
Friday 27th May
Good afternoon
33C here today so keeping cool is the main aim of the day.
So much going on in the background, of which, more news imminently.
It's weekend! Get out there and enjoy it!

Day 202
Feeling lots better today but still not up to travelling yet - my balance is still a little - precarious!
We had a cracker of a storm yesterday afternoon! It crept slowly in, with gentle rumblings and little puffs of air. A few spots of rain and then the gentle grumbling sound increased a little. The palm trees next to the apartment swayed gently, disturbing the Blue Jays that nest there and then we heard thunder.
In less than 10 minutes the storm was right overhead - so was the lightning! A fork of it zigzagged down to the ground directly in front of the apartment's garden wall at the same time as an absolutely enormous thunderclap shook the apartment walls! The electricity went off, the lights went out and the battery clock on the wall stopped in it's tracks - 4.34pm.
John and I backed hastily away from the windows - stunned at the ferocity of Nature in full on temper tantrum mode! It's progress was slow so it lasted quite a while and then moved on but didn't display anything else as dramatic as that thunderflash. I can honestly say I've never been so close to anything so explosively volatile!
By the time we walked down to the Angel Bar to feed my bad throat a nice, easy to swallow pancake it had almost disappeared, just a quiet rumble in the distance as we meandered back.
John had received a phone call from the UK with news about an op he has been waiting for for 3 years, so we had lots to think about between then and today.
Therefore, today has been used for making decisions and plans to carry those decisions out. We will leave for UK in a few days, having prepared Dippy for the journey and make our way back via Bulgaria, Serbia, Croatia, Austria, Germany, Belgium and France.
The trip will give us a chance to visit some areas we didn't visit on the way to Turkey so will give us the opportunity to carry on with our Posts as we travel - on a State Pension.
Once in UK we will head up to the North of England and get settled onto a site near the hospital while John has his op and then - once he's fit again - head back to Turkey.
We hadn't envisaged this turnabout in our travels - but it all adds to the adventure of travelling big distances and lengthy timescales at our age!

 

[frwjd]

Day 203
A peaceful night - thanks to some earplugs! The early morning sun was already hot by 7am and there was not a breath of air to help cool things.
I made a list whilst eating a leisurely breakfast, of things to bring out of Dippy as being not essential for this trip. A second list was of things that we've brought into the flat but now need to put back in!
A 3rd list was of things to look forward to once we're back in England! Anchor butter, real Cheddar cheese and my favourite Sherbet Lemon sweeties!
Breakfast over, we started to sort out things from the list and carry them back. As we came past the downstairs flat we were introduced to our new neighbour, "Werma" a Ukrainian gentleman. The pool was filling rapidly with visiting children enjoying the cool water, it was nice to see their childish enthusiasm as they swam and splashed and "dive - bombed" each other! I wish I had their confidence in the water.
Having stowed things away tidily indoors, John suggested we go for a meal at the Angel Bar - via the boat builders opposite us. If they were open, he wanted to ask if they'd consider re-spraying the newly repaired section of Dippy's rear corner, so as to tidy it up. It was 5.30pm on a Saturday evening so we weren't even sure if anyone would be there.
We waded through the vegetation between us and the boat builder's yard, via the abandoned industrial sized greenhouse that used to grow Aubergines, turning right at the patch of bamboo and then continuing along the goat track that led to the yard.
They were open and working and the owner spoke very good English luckily, so it made the explanations easier than we'd been expecting. He followed us back to take a look at Dippy and told us he could do it ok and to drive her round and onto his site.
He set his assistant to work immediately, polishing off the remains of the tape that had initially held the rear corner panel in place after it had fallen off on the motorway! While he did this we ran our eyes over the enormous boat suspended on wooden beams while they worked on it - a big job, in more ways than one!
We hadn't expected to be seen to immediately, as they're always busy, so we were even more surprised when we were told that if we went immediately to the industrial estate in Fethiye and got 1kilo of the correct shade of white paint, they would spray it tomorrow! He explained where the industrial estate was - and then directed his assistant to go with us for quickness and ease of translation! It was close to closing time for the shops so we had to hurry!
Apologies to "the assistant" I never got his name!
The streets we were eventually directed to were getting increasingly narrow when the assistant motioned to us to pull up and park. As with many of Turkey's trades, this street was FULL of auto repair shops of varying descriptions. We'd pulled up in front of a man sitting on a scooter, ready to go home - it was 6.30pm.
The assistant jumped out and spoke to him and the next thing we knew he was groping under Dippy's bonnet in a most familiar way. I felt like saying politely -"Excuse me, have we been introduced!!!" However, time was of the essence! John explained later that concealed under the bonnet was the correct number for the shade of paint.
In barely a couple of minutes the paint was being loaded through the passenger door and we were trying to reverse back out of the very narrow,very busy road. Normally, this is a job for the 2 of us, but as the non-English speaking assistant was in my seat and I was in the spare passenger seat further back in the seating area, with no view, it was a tad difficult. Especially as this is Turkey and the road rules don't count unless you get caught out!
However, John managed to extricate himself and turn our rear end into the opposite street, only to find that we were being blocked off by impatient traffic ahead of us who wouldn't give way to enable us to move. The driver of a big yellow digger which was also blocking the road came to our rescue suddenly!
He ran across the road, dodging traffic and ignoring blaring horns as he scrambled up into the digger's cab. He more or less forced his way forward with little charges and then brake slamming stops and the traffic scattered before him - a case of them moving or he just might drive over the top of them! Once clear, he pulled over and waved us onward, a big grin on his face!
We left Dippy in their most capable hands once we were back and we continued on to the Angel for food which as usual was delicious. Lemon Chicken for me and Chicken breasts for John. Yummy!

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[frwjd]

Day 204
A short post again today! With the surprising news that we need to return to the UK for John's operation we've been limited to lots of thinking but not much in the way of action!
I think the only "action" for me today has been getting out of bed because I was absolutely convinced that I'd been dreaming about horses - and finding that 2 white horses were clip-clopping along the path outside our windows!
I did a double take, as I'm quite used to seeing goats and sheep outside the apartment now, but they were really there! One walked past, then the other followed it and I spent the next half-hour watching them grazing on the waste ground before they ambled off along the road.
Lists have been the order of the day. Lists for what to take with us, lists for what we MIGHT take with us. All have been written and re-written. Lists for what I might take back to drop off with my children, lists of anything we need to do while we're back in UK. Lists of who we'll have time to see before we come back again.
Lists of what medications we need, have, and will need to re-stock on the to and fro of the journey. (We tend to look like a travelling pharmacy when we go anywhere for longer than 24 hours!)
John had the biggest list of all as it encompassed what route we'll take and what countries we'll travel through and therefore what visa's/documentation we need for each country.
The rest of my day was spent supplying him with coffee and chopped up fruit to keep him going. Necessary, but not necessarily important.
Our new downstairs neighbours have been to-ing and fro-ing with moving their things into the apartment - they're coming as we're leaving! I hope they don't think it's something they said! We'll have to get to know them when we come back in a couple of months time.

 

[frwjd]

Day 205
Wendy is off to the dentist so I'm having Moussaka in the cafe across the road.
I bet you think moussaka comes from Greece but ....

Moussaka - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

Day 205
Mixed feelings when I woke up this morning! Someone told me once that "Every day you wake up - alive - is a good day!" I totally agree - however, I have to visit the dentist today!
As anyone who - like me - grew up with the NHS dentist during the 1950's/60/s can tell you, going to the dentist was a thing of intense trepidation if not outright fear! It's also a fear that you don't necessarily get over.
My dentist during my early years of living in Suffolk, Peter Clarke, helped me enormously with combating my fears, but once he moved away my confidence moved away too. So, when I had a filling fall out a few days ago, I started to panic! Especially as we're on the verge of travelling back to UK for John's operation, which means that if I end up with raging toothache it will be a nightmare journey to say the least!
I reached out to the Fethiye Ex-Pat's Forum for Dentist recommendations and received several suggestions- including one from "Sarah", who is a receptionist at DOC. Despite being on maternity leave (thank you for the baby pic's Sarah, it made my day!) she kindly checked the appointments and was able to link me to an available slot for today! Less time for the nerves to increase!
We walked along to pick up the Dolmus and we soon found the building ok. It was enormous! John waited in the Bar across the road for me. He would have come in with me for support but it would have actually made me more nervous to have him there!
I needed to fill in the registration form and was so nervous that A) I couldn't remember our Ciftlik address and B) I couldn't remember my various health conditions! Luckily - I had a prescription with me to take to the Chemist so was able to refresh my memory with that! Both of the receptionists who dealt with me spoke good English and were very friendly ladies.
So, at 1pm I met Berker Atar who has the most charming, soothing and professional manner that I've been subjected to in a long while!
We chatted while he put me at ease and then with great gentleness, he got to work. Within a few minutes it was all done and my shaking legs had stopped enough for me to stand upright. I doubt I shall have any qualms about going back to have an annual check up in the future!
Having rejoined John, we set of for the Post Office to enquire about a small parcel John has been expecting for a while. We queued up and eventually made it to the head of the line. No luck, but it was suggested we go "upstairs" with a hand waving in the general direction of some stairs in the side wall. No luck there either.
So off we go again and popped into a chemist along the road to get our prescriptions filled.
The dispensing chemist was very helpful - especially with making sure that she pointed out that some of the medications were a different strength to the UK version, so to be aware and break some in half so as not to overdose!
We'd had to explain that we're travelling and, as with so many people's reactions, she told us this was her dream - to have a motorhome and travel. Her colleagues agreed and we asked them if they'd like to be on our Facebook page? YES PLEASE! So - they had their photograph taken with me so we could include it with tonight's post! See John's post below!
As we left - I spotted Gorgeous Georgios in the corner of the shop! I don't think John took a photo though, sadly! Many of you may remember the original Gorgeous Georgios - a runner along the beachfront esplanade on one of our stops - red trunks and oiled bronze body rippling in the sunshine as he repeatedly pounded the sidewalk! Oh my!
This version though was the chemist shop's advertising dummy, bound with bandages and a - truss? Be still my beating heart!
We strolled a little further and stopped for some cold drinks and then shopping and grabbed a taxi home. The taxi driver was a young lady who drove as all Turkish drivers do - breakneck speed, with one hand on the wheel and the other on her phone!
We cooled off a little and then strolled down to the Mozzy Bar for food and got chatting to "Amanda" who was also interested in our trip and hopefully is now reading this! If so - Welcome Amanda!

 

[frwjd]

Day 206
We were hoping to collect Dippy today from the boat builders who were re-spraying her rear end, however, when John went round there it was to find that not only was she not ready for collection, but she was far from being finished. In fact, the condition of her left him very concerned.
A phone call to the boat yard's owner, who wasn't present, brought him zooming round on his scooter to have a discussion with the man doing the re-spraying job. Some progress was made, although we are concerned that the dust and grit being blown onto the wet paint will cause a problem. We'll just have to wait and see and keep our fingers crossed.
This does mean that our departure has been delayed again and we're now looking at Thursday before we're on our way. A case of "Watch this space!"
In an effort to distract ourselves we decided to go and eat at Carikli Et this evening. Grilled salmon for both of us and we had dessert too - not something we do often! Chocolate Brownie and Chocolate Cheesecake to follow, while we sat and put the World to rights! Politics, religion, relationships, education, all were discussed in great detail.
At one point we got up and switched places, much to the Waiter's distress! He thought we were leaving without paying the bill, I think. In actual fact, I was in the draught of the sea breeze and was chilly and John was in the sun and baking! A change of seating positions made it all right for both of us.
We come from different ends of the country and different backgrounds and it was interesting comparing our lives and experiences with each other. It also dredged up so many memories too, of our childhoods, our friends, our careers over the years.
An elderly man came round selling roses and John bought me 3, much to the man's delight! A half-hour later he was round again catching the new customers, and tried to sell some to us again- John held up the 3 he'd already bought and tried to sell them back to him! He laughed delightedly and gave John a kiss on the cheek!
We watched the sun go down over the bay, a glorious orange and red sunset, highlighting the small yachts anchored offshore. The islands dotted all around the bay give the impression that you're actually surrounded by mountains on all sides and being held in a giant bowl of gently rippling water. Otis Redding's 1967 song "Sitting on the Dock of the Bay" started playing and gave it all a very surreal, peaceful feeling as we got ready to go.

 

[frwjd]

Day 207

We've been struggling to find a local bar, until tonight.
We walked down to the beach and turned right instead of left and visited the Mavi Beach Bar and Restaurant.
Superb food and a very warm welcome! We can't wait to go back
Wendy will be writing.more later but, for now, our thanks to a lovely host Volkan
Photos from the bar below

Day 207
I had a few hours of necessary paperwork to complete this morning, lightened only by seeing an aerial "dogfight"! A small Hawk had obviously come too close to where some Swifts are nesting and this resulted in them ganging up and mobbing him. I've seen it a couple of times before but as I was on the balcony, this was almost at eye level so a very different perspective!
After lunch, we walked round to the boat builders yard to go and collect Dippy. We'd seen her after the first day of work and had hoped that all would be well. Unfortunately, that wasn't the case.
We found that some areas had been accidentally sprayed whilst some necessary areas had been missed. The painter had obviously not been up to the job.
Understandably, we weren't charged! We now have to hope to be able to rectify the problem as soon as possible.
We made several trips to finish emptying unnecessary items from Dippy, and filling her up with the necessities needed for the trip back to UK for John's operation. We'll finish after breakfast tomorrow and hope to leave about lunchtime.
The Mavi Bar along the beach had been the subject of several recommendations for good food and not expensive so this evening we walked along to try it out. It had been described as looking like a wooden shed - which it did, albeit a very nice one! However, the food was excellent!
The setting was delightful, a small cove surrounded by the scattered islands, the lights on them winking on and off as the light began to fail. Further along, lots of cars were parked up on the pebbly beach, including a couple of small Motorhomes.
As the light faded the beach chairs were brought out along the waters edge and people settled around BBQ's and a bonfire, the smoke working at keeping the bugs away!
A small spider appeared in front of my face, startling me. We both watched warily as it slowly climbed a long thread of web suspended from the edge of the table to the rush matting roof above us. Neither of us is keen on spiders - and the ones here in Turkey JUMP!
Just in front of us were a Mum and 2 children fishing near the beached canoes and sun parasols. The children soon scampered away to play, leaving Mum to carry on with rod and line.
"Vulcan" the Barman/Manager came and chatted animatedly to us after we'd eaten. (Pizza for me and Adana Kebap for John. Both delicious!) Vulcan explained that he is a very good Barber and could give John a haircut, shave and nostrils fire plucked for a good price!!
As with so many people we've met on the trip, he was delightful company and interested in our travelling. He had his photo taken with me and is waiting for tonight's post to turn up so he can see himself! He was also intrigued by the fact that I am an Archery Instructor and asked if I wanted to set up on the beach and teach him!
A couple of dogs came to check if we'd saved them some scraps but they were out of luck! One of the dogs obviously has some husky in him judging by his fur colouring, curled up tail and his icy blue eyes!
We finished our drinks as the last of the light departed like a pale pink ghost around the headland and walked back to the sounds of the night in the reeds around us. Early-ish bed and an early-ish start tomorrow as we begin our journey back.

 

[frwjd]

Day 208

We left today for our return trip to UK for John's hospital appointment. The last trips to and from Dippy were accomplished, food transferred from one fridge to the other, the non-slip mat for the shower had been used in the apartment so needed to be transferred over too.
We'd aimed for 1 pm as our deadline and started Dippy's engine at 12.54. Not bad going! We reached the end of the road and those dreaded words were uttered "At the end of the road, make a U-turn!"
We both groaned, and John shook his head and just said "NO!" She re-routed and we were soon sailing along.
We rattled through Kargi and Yaniklar and at Inlice the Call to Prayer rang out - with some massive interference on the loudspeakers! The sort that make your teeth grit and your ears ache as a shudder goes up and down your spine!
The central reservation as we swept through Gocek was one long ribbon of dark pink flowering shrubs and a little further on we caught a glimpse of the wide sweep of the bay before we turned into the tight corner that catches so many drivers unawares. Almost every garden along this part has at least one boat in it.
We reach a toll booth, the cars in front are charged 15TL, our size means we are charged 28TL, not quite double.
We're soon passing Dalaman, a long sprawl of houses to our left. The airport is there and a plane is sinking slowly earthwards as we pass, bringing tourists in to enjoy this beautiful country even if it's only for a couple of weeks.
At Ortaca we pass a tractor pulling a trailer full of field stones and 2 trucks carrying split logs. Then as we approach the next bend there's several men working at shovelling a landslide of orange mud and rocks off of the edge of the road. There's still trickles of water coming down the steep side of the hill, adding to the mess.
The orchards at Beyobasi and Yangi are in full leaf, the green a rich dark colour, but I have no inkling of which fruit they're bearing. Workers are moving between the rows as we pass.
At Toparlar there's been a very big fall of rock. Concrete blocks are already in place as a retaining wall until something more permanent can be done - again, there's water trickling down, draining along the roadway.
At Kizilyaka we pass a lorry with a load of tomatoes leaving the area of polytunnels to our right and then John points out the parked up airplane that's now a restaurant - I think it was called Ucak Park Restaurant, it must certainly be a talking point!
The first Police stop and check point we've seen today is being set up as we carry on past them. One of the Policemen smiles and lifts a hand as we pass them. There are several more in rapid succession, with people being questioned at the side of the road, lorries and trucks mostly, but private cars too. The tour buses seem to be exempt!
A vast area of sea appears on our left, with lots of gaily coloured para sails from the wind surfers and then we swing up onto the steep mountain road and climb steadily up past the slowly crawling lorries, our ears popping with the altitude.
We reach Kizilagac and the Sat Nav suddenly makes a death defying leap from the dashboard and lands in my lap! I hang onto it until John can find a layby to stop in and we stick her back in place and have a cold drink and an ice cream to cool down. The heat has been steadily increasing and it's now rather like having a hairdryer going full blast in your face!
We pass some lovely rock formations at Kafaca, they look as though someone has sliced them into layers and then stacked them atop each other, the way you stack pebbles at a beach. The scenery is reminiscent of a Wild West film.
We reach the outskirts of Izmir and join the crazy traffic mayhem! It sometimes reaches just a crawl and at others it's a scramble to stay safe as people switch lanes indiscriminately at high speed. The spread of the city encompasses everywhere you look and reminds me how much I hate such busy, built up areas.
John heads for a petrol station with a massive car park at it's rear for lorries etc and with a lovely restaurant with delightful staff. Kofta, chips, a dish of spicy salsa, slices of toast, salad (which we didn't have), 2 bottles of water and 2 Coca Colas - £7.23p
We're now trying to cool Dippy down enough to sleep in the car park tonight. There's a bit of a breeze and we have windows and skylights open to catch as much of it as possible, but it may be a challenge. Tomorrow's forecast is hotter!

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[frwjd]

Day 209 - a day late!

Apologies for no post last night, a long, hot and busy day of travelling to a lovely little site, which I will come to in a few minutes! We stayed up late talking to people on this site, it's been a long time since we had a real conversation with anyone rather than just a few words of broken Turkish, responded to by a few words of broken English - so we indulged ourselves!
So Day 209 - we'd set off at 10am with a stiff breeze at our backs and patchy cloud scudding along overhead. Last night had been a bit noisy with the big lorries coming in and going out and people talking, but it settled down about midnight as the drivers fell asleep in their cabs.
A bigger problem for us had been the heat. We had every available window and skylight open and the mosquito nets in place, but it was still like an oven. I enjoy the heat and mostly slept through it but John struggled and what sleep he did get was low quality. We grabbed a quick coffee and decided to get an hour or two's travelling under our belts before stopping for breakfast.
We're soon running alongside a bank of low hills, where straight lines of olive trees march slowly uphill. In the central reservation is a man in a high viz vest spraying the weeds and to his left is the beautiful blue sea, dotted with little sail boats scudding along.
We soon stop for fuel and need to top up the LPG. We've found a few times that we 're asked for ID for this - usually a driving license, however the lady attendant looks at it blankly, turning it over and over and shrugging. She calls a colleague who does the same. John's Ikamet card, showing our short term residency, is acceptable though!
Soon after this we go through the first of the Tolls - 88.5TL (£4.30–). The wind has now increased significantly and the trees and bushes are whipping back and forth. We feel the push of the wind whenever we break cover from them.
Ovacik brings us to the farmland spread out both sides of us, a red tractor harvesting in straight lines - I could easily imagine myself back in Suffolk, watching the tractor from Baldwins farm as I walk over to my allotment for the day. As I'm watching, we pass 6 giant tomatoes in the next field! They're advertising the crops from the polytunnels alongside them and suddenly every verge is filled with signs and stalls selling tomatoes, strawberries, raspberries.
We both do a double take as we pass Kabakum!
"Did I just see.....?" asks John. "Yes," I answered, "You did just see a bright blue three wheeled motor cycle towing a bright blue caravan!!!!"
"Thought so."
As we approach Gomec we pass the wooden skeleton of a large boat pulled up in the field. The splayed timbers of it's damaged hull and deck show a shadowy, dark interior. It looks to have been there for some time, the wood bleached to a silver grey and weeds and vines growing against and over it. I suppose it will be there until the wood finally decays and the rest of the structure collapses in on itself. How sad. I wonder where it's been and what it's seen before fate brought it here. A "nodding donky" pumps water into the field next to it - nodding in agreement to my thoughts?
The turquoise waters of the sea are to our left and the road divides it from the laid out salt pans to our right, the colours varying from blue through to white depending on the stage of drying reached.
As we reach Burhaniye we have to swerve round 2 men pushing a broken down car towards the road exit. When we reach the traffic lights there's an open backed truck in front of us, carrying 6 sheep who look at us looking at them and baaa at us. I politely Baaaa back and they blink!
The next set of traffic lights is even better for entertainment! A similar truck - but with a large cow squeezed into the small back of it, it's rear end and it's tail dangling over the tailgate, swishing! It turns it's head and quirks an eye at me as much as to say "Does my bum look big in this?" Oh yes, it does!
We head for Kucukkula and then spiral up the mountains. A blue lorry is coming down very slowly, it's bonnet is tied open with rope and wisps of steam are coming from it. There's an enormous tailback of cars behind it, the narrow road making it difficult to pass.
Once on the level again, we stop for a quick drink and snack and then it off again! We pass a motorhome - only the 2nd we've seen since we left the apartment.
A while after we pass Ehine we can see the Bosphorus spread out to the side of us, the Straits of Dardanelle. On the other side is Gallipoli where hundreds of thousands of military personnel lost their lives. The new bridge across the Straits is where we're heading for, the 1915 bridge, named for the year of the battle that cost so many lives. We wanted to cross it before, but hadn't been completed.
We cross in almost total isolation and that gives it a very eerie feeling! There were a handful of workmen, and a couple of cars - and us! The views were spectacular in all directions, and we reached the Toll at the other end all too soon. 279.50TL
Our next stop was to be a Vineyard - until Sat Nav took over that is! We were doing OK, and turned up a wide dirt road having spotted the Vineyard's sign. As we reached the top of the slope we were met by - a barbed wire fence, guard towers, and pictures of armed soldiers with a warning not to attempt entry!!! We retreated slowly away from the Army Base! A couple of miles further on we passed a low loader carrying an Army tank! Just to re-inforce the fact that we hadn't found the Vineyard!
We continue on after a hasty drink and snack and reach the Border between Turkey and Bulgaria just on 6pm. The queues aren't too bad and we move slowly along and are through the Turkish side in no time at all. The Bulgarian side is equipped with what resembles a shallow version of a sheep dip! As you roll across it, disinfectant is sprayed over the sides and fountains up from below. On some vehicles it reaches up the sides but Dippy's too tall. W e find out it's to combat African Swine Fever - sounds nasty!
We join the wrong queue! We went in the line for buses/coaches but despite our size, we should have gone in the line for cars! So John had to do a massive reverse back along the fencing to change over. If anyone had been behind us there would have been a massive problem.
Passports and vehicle documents are scrutinised and then we're waved through. Every single car and van ahead of us are searched thoroughly, but we are only given a quick scan through the habitation door. Next step is to buy a Vignette that allows us to use the Bulgarian roads, similar to road tax.That office is closed so we are told to go IMMEDIATELY to the nearest garage or face a hefty fine!
We find a delightful little site - Sakar Hills. Hardstanding for a few vehicles, grass for tents etc. Very peaceful, apart from the railway track behind us, but it's not a particularly busy line. The owner is an Englishman, Matt, who charges us 14TL per night for pitch, water, toilets, showers, chemi loo disposal, electric and internet.
The evening was spent talking to a young Danish couple who have a 7 week old puppy! They're here while they wait for their "pet passport" to be made ready. Also "John" from - Burnley! John's here with his black Lab, Daisy. Burnley are the rival footie team to John's Blackburn Rovers! Luckily we all got on very well indeed! Before we knew it - it was bedtime. A delightful evening talking to people where we don't have to struggle with our poor grasp of Turkish or their poor grasp of English. It makes such a difference!

 

[frwjd]

Day 210

We don't have sim cards for all the countries on our return journey so posts will be a bit sporadic.

 

[funflair]

Hi John and Wendy, just caught up with your travels, Kayakoy "been there" and a few others, I think a lot of the places may have changed dramatically since we were there 30 years ago but it sounds like the people are just as welcoming and helpful, safe travels as you work your way back to the UK.

 

[frwjd]

From what we hear I don't think you'd recognise the place except from the lovely people

 

[frwjd]

Day 211

Another very hot night, we had a rest day yesterday as the heat had been exhausting so driving wasn't an option, however, we really needed to get going again! Dippy was filled with water, the toilet cassette emptied, rubbish binned, neighbours said Goodbye to and then off to settle up with the owner, Matt. He'd started this site from scratch 14 years ago and it's been a lovely place to stay. Small but not tiny, extremely well kept and lovely open spaces to enjoy. Matt himself is a lovely guy and ensures that his customers/residents are happy!
We left just after 11am and popped to the shop just along the road for bread and drinking water. The shopkeeper only spoke Bulgarian and there seemed to be a problem with me paying for the shopping, but we couldn't understand each other.
However, a man who was also on the same campsite as us was there and very kindly stepped in. He translated for me that the shop didn't take Euros, or debit cards, so I couldn't buy anything! He then took my Euros from me and exchanged them for the correct currency from his wallet and helped me pay what I owed. A gentleman!
We set off - and drove for HOURS through flat land with nothing except grass and trees and the very occasional small town in the very far distance. The teeth jarring, back breaking roads were absolutely awful, with potholes and uneven surfaces galore.
We reached the Border between Bulgaria and Serbia at 3.15pm and were asked on the Bulgarian side for our Passports and Vehicle documents - no problem. Then we drove the few yards to the Border to cross into Serbia. The booth was empty, as the customs officer was having a cigarette so we had to wait! He eventually sat down and glanced at our passports then waved us through.
The scenery was once again flat grass and trees, with the occasional tractor and at one point the monotony was broken by having to dangle out of the cab window to retrieve a Toll ticket, which we paid several hours later at a cost of 1,690 Serbian Dinar (about £12.35p).
We'd had a couple of very short breaks to grab a quick drink and draw breath - but John was keen to keep going as long as possible. As it got close to late afternoon we were looking out for somewhere to stop overnight and John keyed a likely place into the Sat Nav. We wound round and through some small villages but
there are a distinct lack of readable place names along the route, so I couldn't make notes of them as we drove. The tourist buses were out in force though, in the space of less than an hour 34 passed us.
We quite suddenly found ourselves in an area of huge lakes, on both sides of the road. The Sat Nav pinpoints the camp site for us as being down a very steep "Unmade road" - a track in the grass! The turn is much too tight so we have to continue on for a way and then do a 3 point turn and come back, easing ourselves down the grassy slope and arriving at Camp Calinovac.
We're greeted warmly by the owners who are tending the many plant pots and hanging baskets. They take one look at our hot and dusty faces and bring out a jug of delicious home made Elderflower cordial, and some fiery liquid which could strip paint! They have only a few words of English (which is still more than our Serbian) so telephone their son who acts as a go-between on the phone.
The daily rate here is 6 Euros for the van, plus 6 each for us = 18 Euros per night. The 2 toilets and 2 showers are modern and clean but unisex.There is also a small camp kitchen with cooking facilities, crockery and pans etc and a fridge.
John drove 418 miles today so the total for 2 and a half days of actual driving is 1,023. He MIGHT have a rest tomorrow!

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