2015 Hymer Exsis i 414 upgrade to Lithium, DCDCS charger/charge controller, inverter thread!! (1 Viewer)

[growly_bear]

Sorry, I have no idea either.

I do know there are some fuses hidden behind the panel on the right hand side under the window, that was fun!

Oh no, not more fuses! another exciting adventure! where exactly do I find these?

 

[Lenny HB]

Oh no, not more fuses! another exciting adventure! where exactly do I find these?

Best not to.
Probably for the media option that is where they fit the amp.

 

[growly_bear]

Best not to.
Probably for the media option that is where they fit the amp.

I can't go there (yet). The speakers are shocking. Not seen anything resembling am amp. I'll be sure to post what I find

 

[autorouter]

Hymers usually have a Schaudt Electroblock, with a separate display panel.

As the dcdc+s is to be fitted under the passenger seat, adjacent to the EBL, can I feed the +ve for the EBL from the +ve Hab connection on the dcdcs? As both upstream and down stream are fused, would it need a separate fuse? (this would leave a spare fuse on the busbar).

Yes that fuse arrangement is fine in theory, no separate fuse needed, and if the B2B was 30A or less that would be a good option. I'm not so sure about sending 50A or so through the EBL, I don't think it would last long. Better to wire the B2B output direct to the leisure battery, even though that needs another wire and fuse.

No problem with the relay explanation, I'm sure it's informative to someone. The water level sensors usually plug into the control panel that controls the EBL, some multiway plugs at the back. You can get a manual for the EBL and the display panel from the Lippert website, there's quite a lot of information and a wiring diagram, but not much info about the wiring once it leaves the EBL.

What EBL number is it?

 

[Googlebot]

Oh no, not more fuses! another exciting adventure! where exactly do I find these?

Take speaker out, look up, there are 2 or 3 in a block. Think they are for the electric heated mirrors. The fusebox couldn’t have been good enough.

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[Googlebot]

Think they might be for the step as the buzzer is there? I might be wrong, there must be more to it than the step though.

 

[growly_bear]

Hymers usually have a Schaudt Electroblock, with a separate display panel.

Yes that fuse arrangement is fine in theory, no separate fuse needed, and if the B2B was 30A or less that would be a good option. I'm not so sure about sending 50A or so through the EBL, I don't think it would last long. Better to wire the B2B output direct to the leisure battery, even though that needs another wire and fuse.

No problem with the relay explanation, I'm sure it's informative to someone. The water level sensors usually plug into the control panel that controls the EBL, some multiway plugs at the back. You can get a manual for the EBL and the display panel from the Lippert website, there's quite a lot of information and a wiring diagram, but not much info about the wiring once it leaves the EBL.

What EBL number is it?

It's a EBL 29

The proposed wiring is external to the EBL. The cable I'm referring to is the EBL supply from the DCDCS hab connection rather than a separate fuse at the busbar.

Yes, mine has the above the hab door simple display. I'll download the diagram as I'm sure it will come in handy!

Thanks!

 

[growly_bear]

Take speaker out, look up, there are 2 or 3 in a block. Think they are for the electric heated mirrors. The fusebox couldn’t have been good enough.

Hymer must be having a laugh!

 

[growly_bear]

Think they might be for the step as the buzzer is there? I might be wrong, there must be more to it than the step though.

Is considered the step but so many relays. However, it will be obvious when it doesn't work when I pull stop out!

 

[growly_bear]

Can someone please explain why the battery link cable has to be connected between the starter -ve and the hab battery busbar and not directly to the batter terminal (ie betweet the shunt and the -ve terminal)? I can't get my head around how the shunt will see the -ve from the EBL29 and Ah being used. Does this make sense? Isn't the link wire there as in motorhomes there is unlikey to be a convenient earth?

I've looked at another recent thread on here and the link wire is in the same location...

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[autorouter]

Can someone please explain why the battery link cable has to be connected between the starter -ve and the hab battery busbar and not directly to the batter terminal (ie betweet the shunt and the -ve terminal)?

The purpose of the link from the starter battery negative to the leisure battery negative is to carry the return current from any charging devices like the split charge relay or B2B, which are powered by the alternator. The starter battery negative will be connected to the chassis, which is what carries the return current from the alternator body which acts as its negative terminal.

So the charging current path for the leisure battery is: alt+, starter+, B2B in, B2B out, leisure+. On the negative side, it's leisure-, shunt, bus-, starter-,chassis, alt-.

The question is why does it go to the negative busbar, not the actual leisure battery negative terminal. That's because all current going into the leisure battery negative needs to go through the shunt. If it doesn't go through the shunt, it doesn't get accounted for in the state of charge calculation that the shunt performs. The contribution from the alternator is significant, if that is missing the calculation will be way off all the time.

A shunt is simply a chunk of metal similar to a copper bar, with very low resistance, equivalent to a couple of inches of thick wire. The point is, it is a very small but very accurately known resistance. By accurately measuring the tiny voltage across that shunt resistor, the amps cam be calculated. Using a microprocessor and a timer, the amps can be added up second by second, to keep track of the charge going in and out of the battery.

 

[growly_bear]

The purpose of the link from the starter battery negative to the leisure battery negative is to carry the return current from any charging devices like the split charge relay or B2B, which are powered by the alternator. The starter battery negative will be connected to the chassis, which is what carries the return current from the alternator body which acts as its negative terminal.

So the charging current path for the leisure battery is: alt+, starter+, B2B in, B2B out, leisure+. On the negative side, it's leisure-, shunt, bus-, starter-,chassis, alt-.

The question is why does it go to the negative busbar, not the actual leisure battery negative terminal. That's because all current going into the leisure battery negative needs to go through the shunt. If it doesn't go through the shunt, it doesn't get accounted for in the state of charge calculation that the shunt performs. The contribution from the alternator is significant, if that is missing the calculation will be way off all the time.

A shunt is simply a chunk of metal similar to a copper bar, with very low resistance, equivalent to a couple of inches of thick wire. The point is, it is a very small but very accurately known resistance. By accurately measuring the tiny voltage across that shunt resistor, the amps cam be calculated. Using a microprocessor and a timer, the amps can be added up second by second, to keep track of the charge going in and out of the battery.

I don't know what you do or did for your day job, but I'm guessing a teacher as you explain so thoroughly and concisely! Thanks for taking the time to explain this. So if the link was fitted to the battery terminal, the -ve current from the alternator would be included in the shunt calculations.

Getting there slowly...

 

[autorouter]

So if the link was fitted to the battery terminal, the -ve current from the alternator would be included in the shunt calculations.

If the link was fitted to the negative busbar (not the battery terminal), the -ve current from the alternator would be included in the shunt calculations. If it was fitted to the battery terminal, the negative current would bypass the shunt and not be included.