‘Bailey’ PS306-6A-BC & Victron Bluesmart Charger (1 Viewer)

[The Artilleryman]

I think I may have been over thinking this problem.
We don't use EHU - except at home 24 hours before departure, to get the fridge/freezer down to operating temperature - so I'm going to disconnect the supply to the PS306, at the c/u and tape the cable up safely, this then isolates the PS306 and it will work in battery only mode.

The LiFePO4 will be charged by solar or B2B depending on whether on site or driving, or at home via the IP22 on EHU.

This will save all the hassle of pulling the "van" fuse and having to reset the time on the Seattle control panel.

 

[CraftyPete]

I’ve pretty much done the same. Disconnected the old PSU and put a c14 socket on the ip22. As far as me and the auto electrician think, removal of this fuse disables the split relay charge. So the van ‘thinks’ it’s never on EHU. The ip22 tops up the batteries same as the B2B and MPPT. I’m reasonably happy, added some 12v and usb sockets. Let’s see how it goes.

 

[autorouter]

As far as me and the auto electrician think, removal of this fuse disables the split relay charge. So the van ‘thinks’ it’s never on EHU.

Can you clarify what you mean by the split charge relay? Most people on here use 'split charge relay' for the relay that connects the leisure battery to the starter battery/alternator when the engine is running, and disconnects it when the engine stops.

I think you are referring to the relay or relays that switch the EHU charger to the leisure battery, and the EHU 12V supply to the hab circuits. Then reconnect the hab circuits to the leisure battery when the EHU is disconnected.

 

[CraftyPete]

The split relay I speak of is the one that previously connected veh to hab when engine runs.

 

[The Artilleryman]

CraftyPete does your alarm for lost 230v still work ?
I've lost that and the mains connected symbol on the Seattle control panel - I think I know the cause - but wondered if yours is the same.

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[CraftyPete]

Yes, this has gone. I could fix it, did it previously on our old Chausson. The PSU has a white signal wire going to PDU. Snip it, inset Wago connectors. I bought a 500mA driver. Apply mains to driver (I’d use c13/c14 ‘y cable with c13 socket. ) dc+ of driver to PDU and dc- to GND/negative bus bar. I just wasn’t feeling up to doing it.

 

[The Artilleryman]

Yes, I thought that was the cause.

 

[CraftyPete]

Some time later, I have restored the 'mains disconnected' functionality, only a 10 min job and I had all the bits already. Probably not much more that £10 worth of bits all-in. Electrics in this van now almost complete. I had ordered and fitted a Euro style 12V socket, but I have no 12V Euro plugs - what a shame we don't use this standard as a socket rated up to 20A is, IMO, better than a 10A one (& we don't smoke ). Replacement on backorder (I wanted a white one, to do with the white invertor mains out socket).

 

[autorouter]

I had ordered and fitted a Euro style 12V socket, but I have no 12V Euro plugs - what a shame we don't use this standard as a socket rated up to 20A is, IMO, better than a 10A one (& we don't smoke ).

You can get plugs that will fit both. This one has a red sleeve that allows it to go in a cigarette-lighter socket, as well as the Hella type. I agree, the cigarette-lighter socket is a real bodge, and the Hella socket (ISO 4165) is a proper power plug, but there are millions of them out there.

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[The joker]

Found these maybe a bit late but what do you think for future reference?

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