Another peaceful sleep, albeit slightly uncomfortable from overeating at the pub. You don't need a seafood chowder as starter followed by a main course. I decided in the morning I wasn't that stuffed so enjoyed an Irish Breakfast. After the van had participated in the queue for motorhome toilet (service point), I resumed the last bit of the Ring of Kerry. Not very exciting and at Kenmare I left it behind.
Just round the corner I entered the Beara Peninsula and the Wild Atlantic Way merged into a new route, the Ring of Beara. Immediately this was more promising than Kerry. The N roads were left behind onto a narrower and bumpier R grade road twisting through woodlands, if not forest. Initially there was not much coast but some promise as you crossed bridges over tiny inlets.
Signage indicated a coast road route, a separate from the main ring. Why not. Almost immediately single track, and becoming overgrown. It emerged round a headland with promising views over the Kenmare Bay but no real places to stop and admire the scenery.
The next side loop, which was part of the Ring of Beara but not the Wild Atlantic Way was even more interesting, rugged and challenging. Fortunately there was little traffic and 20mph was fast with the terrain. Rewarded by some great views even though there was nowhere to stop to admire them.
I now started to criss cross the Beara Peninsula in a large figure of eight pattern. Low speed and gears had knocked my fuel consumption and a top up would be essential. After doing so at the largest town, Castletown-Bearhaven, I drove back on the south side to Adrigole.
Now I was in for some real fun, the Healy Pass. The summit is effectively a border between Counties Kerry and Cork, who share the Beara Peninsula. Parts are a wide single track and mostly good opportunities on the main windy uppy bits for passing. Small viewpoints at the top with an odd closed pottery gift shop and decent waterfall. Oh and sheep.
Right at the bottom, back on normalish (for Eire) narrow but two way roads I encountered my first unpleasant Irishman. Most have a cheery wave as you pull over to leave space and pass. This one had a PVC and despite I had pulled tight to the side with door mirror folded, there were all sorts of width gesticulating from him and partner. It would appear the expectation was that I should reverse, but I'm not sure to where. He was most peeved when I got out and directed him past me, that he had had to fold his mirror. If the poor chap had actually been able to drive his van he wouldn't have needed to. He had over a foot of tarmac left on his passenger side. Never mind.
I now reverted to the far, western end of the Wild Atlantic Way and Ring of Beare. Again the road became single track and this time prohibited anything wider than 2.5m. A lot more uppy downy twisty with little in the way of passing spots for much of the time.
Part of this end peninsula was in the early to mid 1800s known for copper mining employing some 1500 people including some from Cornwall. They even brought steam engines to pump out water whilst ore was shipped to Wales for processing. Only ruins now remain but some rocks still show green traces of the copper.
There were further great views on the way back down to Castletown-Bearhaven.
My stopover this evening is a car park with dedicated motorhome bays almost central to the town. Castletown-Bearhaven is the main white fish port in Ireland. Otherwise, not that interesting as it's high street of smaller shops and many pubs has seen better days and the industrial background has limited the aesthetics. It's raining which, given I've had Guinness quite a few nights in a row, means I'm not tempted out for another.
Just round the corner I entered the Beara Peninsula and the Wild Atlantic Way merged into a new route, the Ring of Beara. Immediately this was more promising than Kerry. The N roads were left behind onto a narrower and bumpier R grade road twisting through woodlands, if not forest. Initially there was not much coast but some promise as you crossed bridges over tiny inlets.
Signage indicated a coast road route, a separate from the main ring. Why not. Almost immediately single track, and becoming overgrown. It emerged round a headland with promising views over the Kenmare Bay but no real places to stop and admire the scenery.
The next side loop, which was part of the Ring of Beara but not the Wild Atlantic Way was even more interesting, rugged and challenging. Fortunately there was little traffic and 20mph was fast with the terrain. Rewarded by some great views even though there was nowhere to stop to admire them.
I now started to criss cross the Beara Peninsula in a large figure of eight pattern. Low speed and gears had knocked my fuel consumption and a top up would be essential. After doing so at the largest town, Castletown-Bearhaven, I drove back on the south side to Adrigole.
Now I was in for some real fun, the Healy Pass. The summit is effectively a border between Counties Kerry and Cork, who share the Beara Peninsula. Parts are a wide single track and mostly good opportunities on the main windy uppy bits for passing. Small viewpoints at the top with an odd closed pottery gift shop and decent waterfall. Oh and sheep.
Right at the bottom, back on normalish (for Eire) narrow but two way roads I encountered my first unpleasant Irishman. Most have a cheery wave as you pull over to leave space and pass. This one had a PVC and despite I had pulled tight to the side with door mirror folded, there were all sorts of width gesticulating from him and partner. It would appear the expectation was that I should reverse, but I'm not sure to where. He was most peeved when I got out and directed him past me, that he had had to fold his mirror. If the poor chap had actually been able to drive his van he wouldn't have needed to. He had over a foot of tarmac left on his passenger side. Never mind.
I now reverted to the far, western end of the Wild Atlantic Way and Ring of Beare. Again the road became single track and this time prohibited anything wider than 2.5m. A lot more uppy downy twisty with little in the way of passing spots for much of the time.
Part of this end peninsula was in the early to mid 1800s known for copper mining employing some 1500 people including some from Cornwall. They even brought steam engines to pump out water whilst ore was shipped to Wales for processing. Only ruins now remain but some rocks still show green traces of the copper.
There were further great views on the way back down to Castletown-Bearhaven.
My stopover this evening is a car park with dedicated motorhome bays almost central to the town. Castletown-Bearhaven is the main white fish port in Ireland. Otherwise, not that interesting as it's high street of smaller shops and many pubs has seen better days and the industrial background has limited the aesthetics. It's raining which, given I've had Guinness quite a few nights in a row, means I'm not tempted out for another.
