Beynac

Saturday 2nd September 2023
We had a massive thunder and lightning storm in the night that woke us both up! We were up just after 7am and we left the site at 8.15 and headed to the Dordogne, and to a campsite at Beynac et Cazenac. It was a long drive for Del, we stopped a couple of times and also stopped for fuel and arrived at the campsite at 1.15. Lovely welcome from an English speaking receptionist who gave us a choice of pitches. We set up and had a late lunch. It’s very hot and humid, we looked longingly at the pool but visited the launderette instead and did our washing! Had a wander round, I got bread at the bakery across the road and we had lovely hot showers, a welcome relief after a week of strip washing! Ate tea around 7pm then sat outside with drinks. It’s a little cooler now and a far more comfortable temperature. After our early start this morning I didn’t hang around too long for bed!
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Sunday 3rd September 2023
Had an unhurried morning, it’s going to be another hot and sunny day. We walked to the tourist information centre down the road and collected some maps, also looked at the restaurant menus and researched the times of the boat trips. Decided to walk up to the castle that was perched on top the cliffs above the village of Beynac. Steep old walk up to the castle but well worth it for the fabulous views. Had an ice cream before making our way back down the narrow cobbled lanes to the village centre.
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After lunch we sat and chilled then Del decided to do a bike ride. He set off around 4pm although it hadn’t really cooled off and was still very hot in the sun.
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We showered later in the evening then around 6.30 we opened a bottle of local cider and sat in the shade with our drinks and nibbles. We got something to eat a little later, after the sun had gone down and it was a little cooler! Del couldn’t resist the fish and chip van that visited the site tonight! I had a few chips and the left over quiche.



Monday 4th September 2023
Our 41st wedding anniversary and Robs 39th birthday! We had plans to have coffee and croissants for breakfast but discovered the boulangerie is closed on a Monday! Walked down the road to take a river boat trip on the river Dordogne. It’s a flat bottomed “gabarre boat that is especially designed for shallow water. We had about 50 minutes with a guide pointing out various castles, buildings and points of interest. We learnt that Baynac means the “ place of the big rock” as “beyn” means big rock and “ac” means “the place of”. The river boats transferred goods down the river until the steam train arrived in 1882 and 50 years later by 1935 the last gabarre was seen on the river, putting an end to 2000 years of commercial boating. We passed various castles, the Castelnaud which was owned by the English during the 100 years war and it stood in opposition to the French castle, Beynac. We also saw Fayrac castle which is now private and was demolished back in the day but rebuilt by an American family. Lots of history in just one short boat ride! It’s extremely hot again today, we bought some lunch from a bakery and came back to the van to sit in the shade and enjoy a quiet lunch.
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Around 3.30 we had a short walk along the river but it’s just too hot! We had planned to visit the swimming pool but decided to FaceTime Rob and wish him a happy birthday. At 5pm we went up to the bar to partake of Happy Hour! Two drinks later we ordered burgers from the visiting food truck and ate them back at the van. We are both suffering with insect bites that are itching away on our legs and arms - most annoying.

Tuesday 5th September 2023
Yet again another hot day with temperatures rising to 33 degrees. After breakfast and coffee we set off on our bikes about 2 miles up the road to Les Jardins suspendus de Marqueyssae. It is a chateau high on the rock with massive gardens that were restored at the end of the 19th century after they had fallen into neglect during the war. A man named Julien de Cerval set about planting tens of thousands of boxwood plants that define the many paths and walkways. Many plants are cut topiary style into shapes, such as spheres, ovals and some are cubes, shaped together like tumbling boxes. The gardens are 130m above the river and give panoramic views all around. We walked the length of the gardens, just over a mile then circled round and walked back along the main avenue. At 12.00 we joined a talk about the gardens that was given in English.
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After we left the chateau and gardens we cycled on to the next castle which was Castelnaud. We didn’t go inside but had an ice cream next to the river. By now it was extremely hot so we cycled back and had lunch in the shade of the van awning. At 4pm we cycled up the chemist where I bought cream for our many mosquito bites. Some of mine are blistering and so I thought we’d try something local! I got 2 tubes of cream recommended by the lady who served me in the chemist. At 6.30 we went up to the bar for a beer and ordered pizza for tea. Showered after tea and Del packed away the bikes, chairs, tables and mat, ready for our move tomorrow.

Heading towards Souillac.

Location

Comments

Watch the mozzie bites if they are blistering. More chance of them getting infected.
 

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Old Rascal
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