What thickness did you use on your Autotrail please? I was thinking 1.1 mm.
And which crimps?
Mitch
And which crimps?
Mitch
Fly screen hab door Kevlar string thickness
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Two on Tour
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I used the 200Lb breaking strain, which I have just measured to be 0.9mm.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07283VX4D?tag=mhf04-21
........ and I used electrical boot lace crimps.
The ones I used were 5mm in diameter, which is more than enough to contain the 3 strings that it crimps. Just use a pair of pliers to crush them, and add a drop of superglue to be sure.
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OP
OP
That’s great mate thank you very much for that information from your own experience.
I hope my attempt goes as well
The horrex video is very quick.
Mitch
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That’s great mate thank you very much for that information from your own experience.
I hope my attempt goes as well
The horrex video is very quick.
Mitch
I'm not about for the next few hours, but send you over a couple of links to info that might help when I get back.
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I'm back MitchandJenny
My best advice is to take plenty of photos of the position of corners, string routes and the string termination positions before you start stripping out the mesh and any areas that that catch your eye as you go along so you have something to refer too when you are stood there scratching your head.
The first one I re-strung on the living room floor, and it was a killer, the other 3 that I have done were on a table which was so much easier.
This Horrex guide made life easy.
https://www.horrex.nl/_files/ugd/14074c_37227aee5fd3463abc4cc71b1d603ef8.pdf
Give me a yell if you get stuck.
My best advice is to take plenty of photos of the position of corners, string routes and the string termination positions before you start stripping out the mesh and any areas that that catch your eye as you go along so you have something to refer too when you are stood there scratching your head.
The first one I re-strung on the living room floor, and it was a killer, the other 3 that I have done were on a table which was so much easier.
This Horrex guide made life easy.
https://www.horrex.nl/_files/ugd/14074c_37227aee5fd3463abc4cc71b1d603ef8.pdf
Give me a yell if you get stuck.
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......... or contact Breeze Blinds ......
Some details here, it could mean your thinning hair lasts a little longer
Some details here, it could mean your thinning hair lasts a little longer
OP
OP
Thank you both for your input .
2 on tour why 4 hab door screens
Mitch
2 on tour why 4 hab door screens
Mitch
Two on Tour
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Thank you both for your input .
2 on tour why 4 hab door screens
Mitch
Re-strung our one twice and Tinker 2 twice.
First time around, I thought I would be clever and upped the string size to the 2.1 mm, but after a while the outer sheath of the kevlar string wore through and started snagging in the mesh until it became impossible to open or close the fly screen.
Unfortunately I had also used the 2.1mm string on Tinker 2's re-stringing.
Both now re-strung with the 0.9mm for sometime with no problems.
OP
OP
Thanks for explanation and tip Paul, 0.8mm on order.
Mitch
Mitch
As a side note:
I see the time taken to restring the fly screen door using the instructions above is around 5 hours.
Breeze Blinds restrung our Hymer fly screen door in 2 hours whilst we waited.
Apparently the art of restringing motorhome blinds is getting the tension right.
Cost was £90 (They also fixed 3 of our Remis blinds as well)
Personally I'd rather spend £90 and get the job done properly by an expert rather take twice as long to do a job half as good.
I see the time taken to restring the fly screen door using the instructions above is around 5 hours.
Breeze Blinds restrung our Hymer fly screen door in 2 hours whilst we waited.
Apparently the art of restringing motorhome blinds is getting the tension right.
Cost was £90 (They also fixed 3 of our Remis blinds as well)
Personally I'd rather spend £90 and get the job done properly by an expert rather take twice as long to do a job half as good.
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Two on Tour
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As I said, I have re-strung these a few times now and 3 hours would be more realistic.
Getting the tension right is not an art, in fact it's pretty simple as there is only one string line you have to adjust to get the correct tension.
I rather take a fence that you infer that I would end up with half as good job, or maybe you are referring to if you yourself had a go at it.
Of course, you're not taking into account the time and cost of getting to and from Breeze Blinds.
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grasscutter
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Is this Breeze Blinds of Chichester.
Yes
that is the company
https://www.breezeblinds.co.uk/
Mark Osborne
You can drive to them, or, stay on Ellscott campsite, which is 200m from Birdham pool marina near Chichester, and they will come to you and fix on site.
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Just done brother in law one and it had 6 strings that were strung as 3 loops. Two went to top runner then a spring, one went to bottom runner then a spring. Nt that hard once you can visualise the run for the strings.As I said, I have re-strung these a few times now and 3 hours would be more realistic.
Getting the tension right is not an art, in fact it's pretty simple as there is only one string line you have to adjust to get the correct tension.
I rather take a fence that you infer that I would end up with half as good job, or maybe you are referring to if you yourself had a go at it.
Of course, you're not taking into account the time and cost of getting to and from Breeze Blinds.
Hardest part was getting it out the van!
OP
OP
NOT looking forward to doing it.
Mitch
Mitch
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Hi there - I am in a similar position to where you were but I cannot solve the string puzzle. A lot of the system is still in place so I thought I could simply repeat the process but I am not seeing any signs of a crimp connection? Is there a way you could post a simple diagram - maybe showing the strings seperately and then connected? The Hartal diagram doesnt seem to make much sense?Re-strung our one twice and Tinker 2 twice.
First time around, I thought I would be clever and upped the string size to the 2.1 mm, but after a while the outer sheath of the kevlar string wore through and started snagging in the mesh until it became impossible to open or close the fly screen.
Unfortunately I had also used the 2.1mm string on Tinker 2's re-stringing.
Both now re-strung with the 0.9mm for sometime with no problems.
I'm wondering if I should have two seperate loops that are then connected in some way?
Hi there - I am in a similar position to where you were but I cannot solve the string puzzle. A lot of the system is still in place so I thought I could simply repeat the process but I am not seeing any signs of a crimp connection? Is there a way you could post a simple diagram - maybe showing the strings seperately and then connected? The Hartal diagram doesnt seem to make much sense?
I'm wondering if I should have two seperate loops that are then connected in some way?
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Why not post a picture of your screen then peeps can see if it’s same as what they have repaired
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I simply photoed and noted the string routes and tensioning positions of what I had before I started to strip out the original stringing.
I then followed the re-stringing instructions from 1 to 10 on the Horrex guide that I posted earlier in post #5 of this thread and did the terminations and tensioning as per my particular frame, copying the photos that I took for reference before I started.
https://www.horrex.nl/_files/ugd/14074c_37227aee5fd3463abc4cc71b1d603ef8.pdf
I have arrowed the crimps from the Horrex guide.
Thank you so much for the info. I will try to post a photo. It may be confusing because we left everything we had in place and guessed the broken bits. Black original white new trying to copy
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- Jan 11, 2022
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Is there only one spring tension point?
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Have you 6 threads across the blind?
Nope only 4 and I am still not with it???
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Ok so yours is two sets of two.Nope only 4 and I am still not with it???
Each spring is separate and not joined to the other strings.
Start from the bottom spring take cord down the fixed edge, across the bottom runner then up the moving edge of the screen. You then go across the screen in the top hole, loop behind the fixed edge and go back across the screen at the second from top hole, then back down the moving edge and back to the spring, tie off the cord only when both sets of loops are threaded. To tension, have someone hold the screen fully open, all runners in place and all back together. Then pull the threads tight and tie a knot top and bottom, you can now try screen, I would clean top and bottom runners as they will have grit dust etc in them which stops the slider and cuts the cord. If tension is now needed unscrew the spring fixing and slid it up or down.
Sorry don’t have pictures
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- Jan 11, 2022
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It might be like this one also
licencedtoretire.com
The Frigging Flyscreen | Licenced To Retire
During our trip, BTL (before the lockdown) to the Waikato River, we experienced the failure of our flyscreen. There is a design flaw with the shape of the door in our motorhome. If the wind blows the door shut, it closes onto the flyscreen stretching the internal strings beyond their limits...
licencedtoretire.com
That’s fantastic. I will follow the instructions you have given. So it is possible there is no crimp which is the part that had been bamboozling me! There were 2 broken cords on the bottom spring so I think that would mean no crimp?
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On your second picture you have the cords tied to spring and the other hole, just join the threads to the spring from the same direction. If both bottom threads are gone these will be looped up to the top two threads through the screen.
Bit crude but drawing has yellow line as slider, black as frame,green is cord path, blue is the spring. Just reverse for other end.
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