Non MH Electrical help (1 Viewer)

[monzer]

I'll throw this in to this section but it's basically me needing some help at work.

We've a new foot pedal for our metal worker and I thought it would be a like for like replacement but the wiring does seem a bit different.

All terminals are numbered but I am not sure where all the wires from the old pedal should go on the new one. Can anyone help? Apologies for the crappy sketch.

 

[Odd job]

Can you check the terminals with a multimeter? Do you have any instructions for the machine?
Is it possible to call the manufacturer for advice?

 

[monzer]

Can you check the terminals with a multimeter? Do you have any instructions for the machine?
Is it possible to call the manufacturer for advice?

Nah I thought the new pedal would have came with some kind of diagram but nothing. Thought I'd throw it up on here to see if anyone could make sense of it.

 

[Odd job]

Nah I thought the new pedal would have came with some kind of diagram but nothing. Thought I'd throw it up on here to see if anyone could make sense of it.

Can you contact the pedal maker?

 

[two]

Interesting puzzle.
It looks like the configuration may have changed, if the numbers are meaningful, but I'd assume the same connections as before (ignore the numbers).
Best suggestion is to put a resistance meter across the terminals of each and see if they behave in a similar way. The broken one may be different, of course, but it might lend a clue.

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[NicM]

If you can pin it out with a meter, should be able to work it out.

 

[autorouter]

Does the pedal switch have a make/model or anything else on its label?

 

[monzer]

Does the pedal switch have a make/model or anything else on its label?

It's an emas make I think...

 

[monzer]

Should also add that on the new part the terminals marked 13 & 14 are also marked NO

And terminals 11 & 12 are marked NC.

Dunno if that helps.

Unfortunately measuring resistance is out of my electrical experience knowledge.

 

[Odd job]

I hope this may help

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[Odd job]

It appears to be a 2 stage pedal switch not a variable speed switch so as long as you keep to the diagram the worst that may happen is, it is the wrong way round, if so just swap the wires, good luck.

 

[Odd job]

Should also add that on the new part the terminals marked 13 & 14 are also marked NO

And terminals 11 & 12 are marked NC.

Dunno if that helps.

Unfortunately measuring resistance is out of my electrical experience knowledge.

NO = normally open and NC = normally closed NO means when at rest there's no connection on these terminals but contact when the pedal is pressed NC is the opposite.

 

[autorouter]

The brochure for the PDKA11GX20 says it's a 2x (NO + NC) double speed. I don't know what double speed means, but NO = Normally Open, and NC = Normally Closed. So it's an On/Off switch rather than a variable resistance control switch. I'd go with The Ex-Gasman's recommendation. 'Normally' means unenergised, ie pedal not pressed.

https://axxacnc.com/content/pdfs/EMAS_2021_Product_Overview.pdf

Don't forget to take a picture of the wires to the old switch, for reference, especially if your memory is as bad as mine.
Oh, and CIFT HIZLI means Double Speed in Turkish (Thanks Mr Google)

 

[monzer]

Had it wired up and blade wouldn't come down with the pedal pressed. Swapped about a bit and got the blade coming down without the pedal being pressed.

Getting closer

 

[Realist]

What’s the part no on the old pedal.

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[monzer]

Okay I'm getting nowhere.

So I thought I'd confuse you all a little more...

This is the old pedal... All wires are numbered so I have added them in to this pic. You can also see the little wiring diagram. Also note the plastic ram that activates the switch is on the right hand side of the unit.

But this is the new unit and seems very different.

I'm offering up a boiled tattie to anyone who can tell me which number wire goes where

 

[Realist]

The diagram is written on the back of the old switch, match it to the new.

 

[monzer]

The diagram is written on the back of the old switch, match it to the new.

You'll need to give me more than that for me to part with a boiled tattie. I know very little with this kind of stuff.

 

[Realist]

The new switch it says NO normally open on all terminals, or am I seeing things?

 

[monzer]

The new switch it says NO normally open on all terminals, or am I seeing things?

No the 11 & 12's are NC the 13 & 14's are NO

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[Realist]

in the picture of the switch above on the plate is written NO on all terminals.

 

[monzer]

in the picture of the switch above on the plate is written NO on all terminals.

It just looks like it is. The C looks like an O on that photo.

 

[autorouter]

The new switches are rotated through 90 degrees compared to the old switch.

For example, on the old switch the left-most pair(43, 44) are NO, and the second-left pair (31, 32) (unused) are NC. So the wires 3,5 from 43/44 need to go to one of the NO pairs on the new switch, marked 13/14.

Similar thing for the right hand side. Wires 4/6 go from 23/24 on the old switch to right hand 13/14 on the new switch. Wires 1/2 go from 11/12 on the old switch to the right hand 11/12 on the new switch.

The pedal activates the switches in two steps. With luck it should work when wired like that. If it activates the switches in the opposite order (50/50 chance) then you might have to swap the wires to the left and right switches

 

[monzer]

The new switches are rotated through 90 degrees compared to the old switch.

For example, on the old switch the left-most pair(43, 44) are NO, and the second-left pair (31, 32) (unused) are NC. So the wires 3,5 from 43/44 need to go to one of the NO pairs on the new switch, marked 13/14.

Similar thing for the right hand side. Wires 4/6 go from 23/24 on the old switch to right hand 13/14 on the new switch. Wires 1/2 go from 11/12 on the old switch to the right hand 11/12 on the new switch.

The pedal activates the switches in two steps. With luck it should work when wired like that. If it activates the switches in the opposite order (50/50 chance) then you might have to swap the wires to the left and right switches

Just finishing my pot noodle and heading over to try that!

 

[monzer]

Cheers autorouter

The 50/50 chance of needing reversed proved true but I did reverse them and got it working.

Let me know where you want the tattie sent

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[RandallC]

I'll throw this in as the OP mentioned "WORK"

Are you sure you want to risk a (and use the correct terminology) non-competent person repair to a piece of industrial equipment that should a malfunctions occur may result in a visitation by the HSE.

Just asking!

 

[monzer]

I'll throw this in as the OP mentioned "WORK"

Are you sure you want to risk a (and use the correct terminology) non-competent person repair to a piece of industrial equipment that should a malfunctions occur may result in a visitation by the HSE.

Just asking!

Ach it'll be fine

 

[Odd job]

I'll throw this in as the OP mentioned "WORK"

Are you sure you want to risk a (and use the correct terminology) non-competent person repair to a piece of industrial equipment that should a malfunctions occur may result in a visitation by the HSE.

Just asking!

It goes on and off, what could possibly go wrong

 

[meanders]

I am with RandallC on this especially as a blade is mentioned. Strongly suggest you get its operation and installation independently verifDied by a competent person and get a signature to that effect. If something goes wrong and a part has been replaced, HSE will take action even if the part in question played no part in the accident. A bit like health insurance where they will not pa out for a broken leg because you failed to tell them that you saw a doctor about a sore throat.

 

[pappajohn]

you saw a doctor

When did they start that again.

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