Jane & Rog’s Balkans Tour

AF Marina pulled alongside in Bari an hour late. As we approached Italy you could see a thick brown fug over the port.

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Disembarking was slow. Customs was very tedious. As we had been tucked away on the lower deck, we were last off the boat. It was 10.30 before the animal import inspector waved us over to view Flynn’s papers.

After the complexity of getting him back into Spain from Morocco, we’d done a lot of research on the paper work needed. Even so, it wasn’t enough. The man gabbled away in Italian without really caring if we understood. “il certificato sierologico è buono ma ne serve uno di una settimana fa, preso in Albania…“ We tried Google Translate without success. Eventually he asked Jeremy if he could phone a friend.



“You don’t have a rabies certificate from an Albanian vet” came the helpful voice on the phone. We explained that his unbroken vaccination certificate and titre test proved he couldn’t have caught rabies and (pushing the truth a little) we hadn’t really been in Albania long enough to get a titre test. At this point Flynn spotted the police sniffer dogs and told them, very directly, that he was in charge here and they should back off. A casual observer might describe his communication style as “rabid”. He does try to help.

“But it’s the law, you must get this test. There is rabies in Albania,” the customs man continued.

Resigned, and fearing the worst, we asked what we should do. Back to Albania?
“He will let you through this time but next time, please go to an Albanian vet”.
We opened the car and on seeing Flynn the stern border guard changed demeanour. “Ciao bellezza,” he greeted Flynn, before asking his breed, scanning his microchip and wishing us a safe journey. Flynn reciprocated the warm greeting but omitted to wish him a good journey or scan his microchip in return.

Italy is blisteringly hot. The Garmin briefly displayed a message that it was “outside its operating temperature” then left us to navigate out of Bari using old fashioned signs. We stopped at a random Carrefour for supplies and whilst I shopped, Jane sat with the engine running and cab air con on as the outside temperature climbed to 38C.
After a couple of false starts, we ended up at the harbour in Porto Termoli (///informal.blondie.timeslot).

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The site is lovely, tucked between a beach for Flynn to swim and the harbour with its bar for us to have a quick snifter before walking up to town for dinner.
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Jane had found a Michelin recommended “local eat”. Trattoria L’Opera (///hipbone.focal.everyday). In a close repeat of yesterday’s farewell to Albania we ate raw seafood, pasta with raw prawns and the octopus (J) and squid (R). At €100 including wine it was great value - cheaper than a night out at our local at home.

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Quality and service were up on Albania slightly, quantity was down so we snuck in a gelato on the way back to Denby.

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It’s too hot to walk flynn somewhere he can’t swim even early in the morning so tomorrow we’ll be heading north/up as in to the mountains.
 
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It’s too hot! It was 31 degrees by 9am and about 36 by midday. With a dog, this makes van living almost impossible - the only time we can leave Flynn is if we’re on hook-up and the air con can go on, and it’s far too hot for him to walk around anywhere with us.

So we’ve decided to head for home. We drove all the way to Cremona, and Camping Parco al Po (sandwich.learn.coverage) which turned out to be a good site, once we’d battled with its automated entry system.

Flynn got a lovely cool swim in the river Po, and the highlight of my day was a menu with a choice of at least 12 local sparkling wines, one of which I drank with an amazing view of the piazza and cathedral.

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Cremona is the town where Stradivarius plied his trade, and is littered with violin makers. We definitely want to return to Italy when it’s cooler!

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That level of heat for us Brits can be very debilitating and that's why we now only go in May and September, but it did take us oldies a long time to wise up and of course when we had kids (long gone) there was no alternative. Italy is just a bit magical.

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Jane had found a Michelin recommended “local eat”. Trattoria L’Opera (///hipbone.focal.everyday). In a close repeat of yesterday’s farewell to Albania we ate raw seafood, pasta with raw prawns and the octopus (J) and squid (R). At €100 including wine it was great value - cheaper than a night out at our local at home
didn’t think the Dukes head was that expensive 🤔🤔🤔🤔😂😂😂😂
 
Now your talking yes last time I was there i asked if I was paying a deposit for the glass😂😂😂😂😂😂
We had new years there in 2019 8 of us and with food and drink £160 each them girls can drink good night though😂😂😂😂😂
 
We have not seen any maps or routes for a while guys
Sorry, didn’t get the impression people found them useful. This is a map from my app Mundus, where I’ve filtered just for camping spots. Last night’s camp site is at the top ledt, and the night before is Porto Termoli, bottom right.

By the way, if you use a Garmin sat nav, and an iOs device, you might like Mundus. I added a feature so that you can share a Mundus pin to Garmin Drive (and hence your Sat Nav’s favourites) - we’ve found it so useful on this trip. If you use iOS but have a different Sat Nav and this doesn’t work (it might) - tell me, amd we’ll try to fix it in the app once we’re home.

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That level of heat for us Brits can be very debilitating and that's why we now only go in May and September, but it did take us oldies a long time to wise up and of course when we had kids (long gone) there was no alternative. Italy is just a bit magical.
I agree - we went a month later than planned, and it was the wrong decision, although the weather was just mad anyway, either too cold and wet or too hot and never just right.

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That's a shame - there's nowhere cooler further north?
Still there's no point in 'wasting' your 90/180 days if you're uncomfortable and not enjoying.
Yeah, there’s always another time, and dogs and heat don’t mix. We’d be better with some walking in lovely Wales over the summer, and revisit Spain or Italy in the autumn.
 
Just spent a lovely evening catching up with your blog, thank you so much for taking the time and effort to share your trip. I feel we are kindred spirits, although I don’t drink, hike and can’t cook fish.

cliffanger Cremona might be a nice stop for us in September? You could busk with your uke outside a violin shop whilst I eat ice cream, Martin searches for cake and Cliff bemoans Italian coffee sizes.
 
We drove out of Italy into Switzerland. Like Austria and some of the Balkans, driving in Switzerland requires you to pay road tax at the border. Unlike other countries the tax is for a year and costs roughly one kidney.

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We drove through to about 15:00, passing through the Gotthard Road Tunnel, at 16.9 km, the second longest road tunnel in Europe.

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We drove on to about 15:00 eventually parking up at Camping Sursee (///drank.initial.vies). As I set up and paid Jane phone the French vet and booked le worming appointment. French vets like to play a game of Vingt Questions with their customers so this was more complicated than you’d expect.

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There was a great dog walk down to the lake for Flynn but, as we were returning it started raining.

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We decided not to walk into town and despite the presence of a SAUSAGE VENDING MACHINE we didn’t fancy cooking. Instead we ordered pizza from the site. It was good but like everything made in the Swiss it cost one arm and most of a leg.

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* road tax €50, pizza €20 each
 
To be fair, both the sausage-vending machine and the camp showers took Swiss francs, which we are trying to avoid owning.

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Sorry, didn’t get the impression people found them useful. This is a map from my app Mundus, where I’ve filtered just for camping spots. Last night’s camp site is at the top ledt, and the night before is Porto Termoli, bottom right.

By the way, if you use a Garmin sat nav, and an iOs device, you might like Mundus. I added a feature so that you can share a Mundus pin to Garmin Drive (and hence your Sat Nav’s favourites) - we’ve found it so useful on this trip. If you use iOS but have a different Sat Nav and this doesn’t work (it might) - tell me, amd we’ll try to fix it in the app once we’re home.

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Very useful maps, please keep them coming. Safe onward travels 👍
 
Flynn’s worming appointment went to plan at Clinique Vétérinaire De Sierentz (assembled.tarred.misfit) - a very friendly vet who charged us just over €30.

After that we shopped for our last bbq of the holiday, planned for Saturday night. We tried a chain of supermarkets that was new to us - Grand Frais - and were very impressed. As you’d expect from the name, it had a massive selection of everything fresh - all sorts of fruit and veg, including some quite unusual ones, and a good variety of meat and especially fish.

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Our campsite for the night was Camping Trois Chateaux, just outside Eguisheim. Their booking in system was tediously inefficient and it must have taken me a good 30 minutes to get to the front of the queue, be allowed a place (only about five left!), walk to choose my pitch, and queue again to pay for it and be told where the bins were - information which I’d heard before many times, in French, German, English and Spanish. Their receptionist wasn’t good at process management but she was a great linguist.

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A little later, we took Flynn to explore the town. Well, we explored the town, and he explored the town’s sparrow population - luckily for the sparrows, without success.

Eguisheim is a chocolate box village, with brightly coloured half-timbered houses arranged in their medieval concentric street pattern. It has been rated as one of France’s most beautiful villages since forever.

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It’s a wine town, with vineyards aplenty housing their tasting rooms, but also a brewery - closed today for exceptional reasons. I wonder what an exceptional reason might be? Sickness and funerals all seem pretty usual reasons. It would have to be something like “discovered tigers romping in the mash” or “aliens requested urgent meeting in village hall re beer exports to Alpha Centauri.”

We stopped at the excellent Maison Alsacienne De Biscuiterie where the deliciousness of the mere one each of their almondy biscuitettes that we sampled forced me back to buy a whole bag.

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Then we did a small wine tasting at Ginglinger (ridge.achieving.snipped) - super friendly people who let Flynn come in, and switched to English as his French isn’t too hot. Or course a few bottles were purchased!

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After all this wine, Rog needed a beer, and for some reason I can’t pretend to understand as a mere woman, ordered one bigger than his head.

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Back at the site, we chatted to an amiable retired professor of medieval history from Durham University, who gave us many top tips for medieval French villages to visit, some of which I managed to add as pins in Mundus.

I phoned the restaurant recommended by the vineyard and the prof, and booked us a table for 7pm.

We wandered into town a little early, and completed our wander around Eguisheim.

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Dinner was merely OK, and the service was super slow, so it was quite late when we got back to Flynn.

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Flynn’s worming appointment went to plan at Clinique Vétérinaire De Sierentz (assembled.tarred.misfit) - a very friendly vet who charged us just over €30.

After that we shopped for our last bbq of the holiday, planned for Saturday night. We tried a chain of supermarkets that was new to us - Grand Frais - and were very impressed. As you’d expect from the name, it had a massive selection of everything fresh - all sorts of fruit and veg, including some quite unusual ones, and a good variety of meat and especially fish.

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Our campsite for the night was Camping Trois Chateaux, just outside Eguisheim. Their booking in system was tediously inefficient and it must have taken me a good 30 minutes to get to the front of the queue, be allowed a place (only about five left!), walk to choose my pitch, and queue again to pay for it and be told where the bins were - information which I’d heard before many times, in French, German, English and Spanish. Their receptionist wasn’t good at process management but she was a great linguist.

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A little later, we took Flynn to explore the town. Well, we explored the town, and he explored the town’s sparrow population - luckily for the sparrows, without success.

Eguisheim is a chocolate box village, with brightly coloured half-timbered houses arranged in their medieval concentric street pattern. It has been rated as one of France’s most beautiful villages since forever.

View attachment 773298

It’s a wine town, with vineyards aplenty housing their tasting rooms, but also a brewery - closed today for exceptional reasons. I wonder what an exceptional reason might be? Sickness and funerals all seem pretty usual reasons. It would have to be something like “discovered tigers romping in the mash” or “aliens requested urgent meeting in village hall re beer exports to Alpha Centauri.”

We stopped at the excellent Maison Alsacienne De Biscuiterie where the deliciousness of the mere one each of their almondy biscuitettes that we sampled forced me back to buy a whole bag.

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Then we did a small wine tasting at Ginglinger (ridge.achieving.snipped) - super friendly people who let Flynn come in, and switched to English as his French isn’t too hot. Or course a few bottles were purchased!

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After all this wine, Rog needed a beer, and for some reason I can’t pretend to understand as a mere woman, ordered one bigger than his head.

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Back at the site, we chatted to an amiable retired professor of medieval history from Durham University, who gave us many top tips for medieval French villages to visit, some of which I managed to add as pins in Mundus.

I phoned the restaurant recommended by the vineyard and the prof, and booked us a table for 7pm.

We wandered into town a little early, and completed our wander around Eguisheim.

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Dinner was merely OK, and the service was super slow, so it was quite late when we got back to Flynn.

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Loving the blog, lots of golden nuggets of info👍
Eguisheim really is a beautiful place, we was there last wed/Thurs, very pretty👍
Like you we’re heading home we’re in Rudesheim getting ready for somewhere near the chunnel tonight and on the train in the morning☹️
 
Loving the blog, lots of golden nuggets of info👍
Eguisheim really is a beautiful place, we was there last wed/Thurs, very pretty👍
Like you we’re heading home we’re in Rudesheim getting ready for somewhere near the chunnel tonight and on the train in the morning☹️
We’re on the chunnel Monday morning. One stop near Reims tonight, then near or in Calais.
 

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