Newly acquired 2002 Flair 7100i Iveco

Joined
Feb 13, 2012
Posts
105
Likes collected
44
Location
West Sussex
Funster No
19,800
MH
N+B Flair 7100i
Exp
Since 2012
We had a flair 9000ie on an Iveco chassis. Terrific vehicle just too big for our needs.
Only thing to go wrong was a heater resistor which caused a smell followed by a panic. Fixed very cheaply.
Good if you can find one. Sometimes for Sale in the N and B owners club.

I have recently bought a 2002 Flair 7100i Iveco. Driving back from Scotland I heard a crackling sound closely followed by an overheating electrical smell. The heater control panel felt rather too warm. Is this what you had? If so how was it fixed please?

I suspect this'll be the first of many questions. I will attach a couple of pictures later. See if anybody recognises the van. It's been a bit under-used of late so there are a few expected problems to sort. I'll enumerate them when I post the pictures.
 
Exactly the same situation. We took it to a repairer, not flair, but Iveco. They changed the main resistor and said it was a fairly common fault.
Phil

Presumably not a diy job? When I get the Alde working I could just turn-on the heat exchanger.
 
Thank you, sounds reasonable. Just need to find a local Iveco service garage.

Welcome

Hope you are going to join the N&B Owners UK forum. It is free and some experienced N&B owners on there.

BTW don't forget to change the MH in your Avatar - the Hymer is still showing. The B644G was what I was looking for 10 years ago till I walked into an Arto 69G and immediately changed my mind, and I am very pleased I did.

Geoff
 
Couple of pictures of the van taken at Englethwaite Hall on the way back from Scotland. One or two issues to be fixed. Looking around 'internet they seem to be commonplace in a van of this vintage. Hopefully straightforward repairs.

1. Alde Compact 3000 no life whatsoever. Fuse is ok and I've pressed the overheat reset button. When the (old style control panel) levers are moved up and down various clunking and clicking noises can be heard from the boiler. So presumably there is some, electrical, communication underway.

2. Electrolux RM6505 fridge-freezer. I think it works on gas, seemed to feel colder after half-an-hour. However on hook-up/12v can't feel any change. Probably need to put it on 240v over-night with a thermometer. The Approved Engineer report suggested problems with the AES. All I can say is the light comes on. He also noted black streaks above the external vent, suggesting combustion issues

3. Dometic/Electrolux B1901 air-conditioning unit tripped the RCD the one time I switched on the unit when on hook-up.

Leisure batteries had joined the choir proverbial, so a visit to Halfords at Ayr to fit whatever was available was a priority. I might try some Fiamma drip-strip to deflect the rain from the windows. The slab-sided design produces a bit of a Niagara. My Hymer had an in-built roof-line guttering so not an issue. It'll take a while to master the gearbox. I've driven automatic cars for many years and the FIAT had such a spread of torque I could almost drive it like an auto. Has anyone any experience of remapping the 2.8 litre to give a bit more mid-range?

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Couple of pictures of the van taken at Englethwaite Hall on the way back from Scotland. One or two issues to be fixed. Looking around 'internet they seem to be commonplace in a van of this vintage. Hopefully straightforward repairs.

1. Alde Compact 3000 no life whatsoever. Fuse is ok and I've pressed the overheat reset button. When the (old style control panel) levers are moved up and down various clunking and clicking noises can be heard from the boiler. So presumably there is some, electrical, communication underway.

2. Electrolux RM6505 fridge-freezer. I think it works on gas, seemed to feel colder after half-an-hour. However on hook-up/12v can't feel any change. Probably need to put it on 240v over-night with a thermometer. The Approved Engineer report suggested problems with the AES. All I can say is the light comes on. He also noted black streaks above the external vent, suggesting combustion issues

3. Dometic/Electrolux B1901 air-conditioning unit tripped the RCD the one time I switched on the unit when on hook-up.

Leisure batteries had joined the choir proverbial, so a visit to Halfords at Ayr to fit whatever was available was a priority. I might try some Fiamma drip-strip to deflect the rain from the windows. The slab-sided design produces a bit of a Niagara. My Hymer had an in-built roof-line guttering so not an issue. It'll take a while to master the gearbox. I've driven automatic cars for many years and the FIAT had such a spread of torque I could almost drive it like an auto. Has anyone any experience of remapping the 2.8 litre to give a bit more mid-range?

View attachment 346612View attachment 346613View attachment 346614

Looks nice, hope you will be very happy with it once the initial issues are sorted out.

1, If you re going to keep this its probably worth getting an appointment at Alde Northampton and getting the heating fluid changed and overhauled.

2, If you don't know when it was last changed, I would change the burner and jet as a first step.

3, Did you note the size of the breaker and how much load you were trying to put through it? probably need to be at least 16a.

It is a big ask for the 2.8 to propel that size vehicle, which is why they are significantly cheaper than the 3 litre version. A remap would make a big difference, The Fiat version had an option to change the fifth gear ratio, I'm not sure if the Iveco also had this?

Jon
 
Think it will be 6 speed already Jon ? but you are right it.s a big ask to shift a heavy vehicle with 2.8 but it the lower torque on the 2.8 the really tells over the 3 litre.

Martin

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Looks nice, hope you will be very happy with it once the initial issues are sorted out.

1, If you re going to keep this its probably worth getting an appointment at Alde Northampton and getting the heating fluid changed and overhauled.

2, If you don't know when it was last changed, I would change the burner and jet as a first step.

3, Did you note the size of the breaker and how much load you were trying to put through it? probably need to be at least 16a.

It is a big ask for the 2.8 to propel that size vehicle, which is why they are significantly cheaper than the 3 litre version. A remap would make a big difference, The Fiat version had an option to change the fifth gear ratio, I'm not sure if the Iveco also had this?

Jon

Alde Northampton no longer support the 3000 in terms of maintenance, despite still selling spare parts for this model. An independent Alde engineer is the best option.
 
What boiler has CazPaul got in his Concorde as they served that a few months ago.

Martin
 
What boiler has CazPaul got in his Concorde as they served that a few months ago.

Martin


Yes Martin we have the Alde 3000 and Alde said it was a myth they didn't support it. We had new parts fitted by them including the tank which was knackered.

@canopus,Ken you said Alde didn't support it at the time we had ours done which was refuted by Alde, I even posted you the pages in Alde UK brochure which has all the parts listed for our model.
 
Lovely van, should be reliable although a nice steady plugger, has it got some engine service history

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Looks nice, hope you will be very happy with it once the initial issues are sorted out.

1, If you re going to keep this its probably worth getting an appointment at Alde Northampton and getting the heating fluid changed and overhauled.

2, If you don't know when it was last changed, I would change the burner and jet as a first step.

3, Did you note the size of the breaker and how much load you were trying to put through it? probably need to be at least 16a.

It is a big ask for the 2.8 to propel that size vehicle, which is why they are significantly cheaper than the 3 litre version. A remap would make a big difference, The Fiat version had an option to change the fifth gear ratio, I'm not sure if the Iveco also had this?

Jon
Thank you, however apropos ". . . If you're going to keep this . . ." I'm always prepared to consider reasonable offers on most things I own.

I've contacted a local Approved Engineer who has Alde experience (whether 3000 I know not) and await his reply. Do you think it better to use him, Southdowns or Alde (Northampton)? Regarding the fridge the local AE did a decent job on a previous van's fridge with gas problems. So hopefully he'll resolve that issue. The air-con unit was probably fitted at first purchase, or soon after. At some stage the van passed through Southdowns Motorhomes sales so I would expect it to have worked correctly then. I imagine a service and clean will rectify tripping, if I can find someone who works on air-con units.

It's a six speed gearbox. When underway it moves along passably, but a bit more mid-range will be appreciated. My major complaint with the gearbox is its narrow gate. "Am I in fifth or third, where's sixth, bugger I'm in second" type of thing. Also the almost irrelevant difference between first and second. No sooner underway then it's time to change up. I find it exhausting on my shins. Guess I'll get used to it. Are there any recommendations for suppliers of Iveco remaps?
 
Thank you, however apropos ". . . If you're going to keep this . . ." I'm always prepared to consider reasonable offers on most things I own.

I've contacted a local Approved Engineer who has Alde experience (whether 3000 I know not) and await his reply. Do you think it better to use him, Southdowns or Alde (Northampton)? Regarding the fridge the local AE did a decent job on a previous van's fridge with gas problems. So hopefully he'll resolve that issue. The air-con unit was probably fitted at first purchase, or soon after. At some stage the van passed through Southdowns Motorhomes sales so I would expect it to have worked correctly then. I imagine a service and clean will rectify tripping, if I can find someone who works on air-con units.

It's a six speed gearbox. When underway it moves along passably, but a bit more mid-range will be appreciated. My major complaint with the gearbox is its narrow gate. "Am I in fifth or third, where's sixth, bugger I'm in second" type of thing. Also the almost irrelevant difference between first and second. No sooner underway then it's time to change up. I find it exhausting on my shins. Guess I'll get used to it. Are there any recommendations for suppliers of Iveco remaps?

What I was meaning was - If its a long term prospect its probably worth getting the heating fettled properly early on. personally I would get a specialist not a dealer to do it.

There are lots of people out there with Remap for 2.8JTD, we used Wow for our previous Arto ( same engine), lots of people on here have used Boosters. A tip, just make sure they know which engine it is, a previous Flair owner with the same running gear as yours had the 3 litre remap done in error and it caused him no end of problems going into limp mode.



 
Fiddling around with the Alde today. Investigating with a multi-meter whether there is 12v current to the boiler. As far as I could tell, checking with the Alde service manual at various points within the casing, something is getting through. I hadn't appreciated how quiet in operation the Alde seems. I'm expecting a distinct audible "click", as from the fridge, not an almost apologetic tick. Something I discounted as being extraneous; the leaves rustling, or the hinges on the gate (apologies to Ernie the Fastest Milkman). When to my surprise I heard what sounded like my domestic gas fired central heating boiler. I couldn't see or hear any pumps running so I turned off the system as a precaution. Can it be I have a working boiler, if only checkable on gas so far. Regarding pumps to the Alde, how many and where please. I see one at the top of the header tank. Also another adjacent to the under-floor boiler. Possibly a "Sure-flow"?

The model is an Alde Compact 3000 927B. For no particular reason I assume this to be a 2kW version.

Any advice regarding pumps and practicality of draining and refilling the glycol will be welcomed. Hopefully I'm not becoming over-confident.

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Pump in the header tank for circulating the glycol, they can fail after a few years so check it responds to the thermostat. The pump next to the boiler is your domestic water pump Shurflo and is operated by a pressure switch on the end of the pump casing when tap is opened or pressure drops in the system. The heating pump will run with or without the boiler fired up so you can test that anytime just set the right hand side slider up one click and turn up the thermostat, if the pump isn't running take it out of the tank and give it a spin.

Yes the boiler is fairly quiet, when it lights on gas you should get a brief confirmatory red light on the left side of the slider panel, and yes I believe that N+B set up the boiler with 2kw as the max on electric.

To drain glycol you may/should find a brass tap with a cap on the outlet under the floor directly below the boiler, open this and open a couple of radiator vents and the system should drain, some people say it's a bit of a job refilling and bleeding but on our Flair I just topped the header tank up with 50/50 glycol water and let it rise up to the the open vents and then ran the pump and bled the radiators, job done.

Martin
 
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That was a satisfactorily productive afternoon. Following forum's advice and that of a helpful correspondent at Alde (Andy Bailey) I bought a new circulation pump (Outdoor Bits.com, very quick service). Fitted same. I would like to say it was monumental spannering undertaking, but . . no. A bit of fiddling with the control levers, I think it's been a while since they were called into action, they were initially reluctant to engage. Some disappointment when nothing seemed to happen. Then - happiness. The sound of a boiler firing and quite quickly the sensation of gentle warmth from the radiators. Frabjous joy! Next to try it on 240v.
 
Does anybody know if these are available? Or even the manufacturer. Handles for the front window roller-blind. They have split around the retaining-screw holes. Alternatively has anyone an elegant alternative?
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At the van today to try the fridge and Alde on hook-up. Completely flat vehicle battery. Below 3v, something's afoot. Consequently couldn't move it to an electrical outlet. No idea yet what is causing a drain (I haven't removed the immobiliser key, could that be a cause?), something to address later; probably with a solar switcher, an extra panel and an auto electrician. Required firstly: a vehicle battery. Any recommendations?
 
Replacement Bosch battery, not easy to fit into the tray; the wiring crossing the back of it fouls the installation, needed to make a wooden plinth. Alde heating works on hook-up, hooray. However the fridge doesn't. I think it runs on gas but seemingly nothing from either electrical input. So I went a-hunting a replacement pcb. Hen's teeth. Then, like the answer to the maiden's prayer, one cropped-up via Facebook and eBay. I immediately bought. Upon receiving no confirmation of despatch from the vendor my suspicions that I wasn't dealing with an honourable individual were confirmed. He had sold it through Facebook after I had bought on eBay. What a bounder! I was rather hoping to fit it this weekend. So, unless one crops up in the UK today, I'm dependent upon the honesty of a gentleman named Josef from Lodz in Poland.

Or buy a new fridge.

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Hi oldieish
I hope you have sorted your little niggles out------- from our experience we believe you will be delighted with your van once you have got used to it!!!!!
Regarding the power, we have been very pleased with ours considering the size of van ---- we put ours on a weighbridge on the way to Portugal when towing the trailer and although slowing a bit on the long drags it performed well considering the all up weight was 8.5 ton!!!! And we came from an obscenely powerful 6 litre Cummins diesel camper!!
We had problems with our fridge but it was the gas that had escaped, so we had a new one fitted!!!! Very expensive but had to be reliable
 
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Maybe ours has been chipped??? I don't know!! The chassis and all running gear is more scaled down truck than beefed up car I believe???------ you commented on the low 1st gear------ if you get into the habit of using it to get you on the roll your clutch should last an extra hundred thousand miles or more!!!!! Also good for days like today when we have been in very unportuguese like traffic jams and just crawled along in 1st without hammering the clutch!!
I don't recognize the handle you are looking for---- is it from the windscreen roller blind???? We don't have these----- is your blind electric????
 
Hi Sundowners, trust you are happily settled in your new home.

As you see I finally found a Flair 7100, hopefully I'll be able to get it up to scratch without too many alarms. The more frequently I pop into it the more "at home" I feel. Some new blinds should complete the new look. A replacement circuit board and circulation pump has the heating working. I need to put on hook-up to be completely satisfied that all is well. The fridge seems to cool on gas, so I'l book in for an engineer's inspection hoping it is no more than a faulty element and a burner clean/replacement. New full-sized fridges are a tad pricey. They can have a look at the air-conditioning unit at the same time.

The Harol shutter is manually operated; looking on mobil.de at other N+Bs, some have this particular handle most do not. It'll be a case of fettling a repair or elegant alternative construction. I've had an example of the latter from a forum member. There's a broken habitation window to fix. I'll post a picture seeking advice at a later date, it doesn't affect the usability of the van. Also the roof roller blinds/mossie nets have both lost their joie de vivre and neither roll out nor retract with any enthusiasm. Following the recent Anglo-monsoon I'm considering attaching some Fiamma drip-strip rail above the windows. Worthwhile? Did you fix it to your van or was it already there?

Over the years previous owners have removed a couple of desirable features (meanies) including an Autosat 2 satellite system and an SFC fuel cell battery charger. Certainly I can't see any evidence of them still attached. Am I correct in thinking the charger is an Efoy system?
 
Hi
It's good to hear that you are feeling at home with your flair!!!
The windscreen blind handle is probably only fitted to manual blinds that's why you can't see it on all flairs (I am guessing this as ours is electric and does not have handles)
Are you sure you have 240v to the fridge??--- on an extremely rare occasion we stopped at a campsite in France and wanted to make the most of their fee!!! I was distraught to find our fridge did not work on 240v!!!! After we got back to UK and investigated I discovered the switch in the bottom of wardrobe (which I had never noticed before!!) was off----- it probably got turned off by something floating around on the floor!!!!!
Suggest you check it!!---- we know how expensive the big fridges are, we fitted a new one!!!!!!!!!
Ours was fitted with an aftermarket efoy (not a N+B standard appliance) but we took it out as hardly ever used it---------- we actually never bought any fuel for it!!!!!------- there are times it is handy but, for us was a waste of space,--- they are as big as a small Genny and use "funny fuel"!!------ In our opinion a Genny is FAR more useful/versatile---- so the efoy went!!!!!!
The springs on our blinds on the European roof vents are not so strong in the cold
----- the same ones on our caravan have last their blinds!!!------- the American fantastic fans on the other two vents are far superior!!!!
Please keep posting your mods as you do them--- interesting for us and we are sure for others too!!

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