WiFi Antenna install query

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Jan 22, 2019
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Adria PVC
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Rented a few times...now an owner.
Decided an upgrade to our Wifi was needed and have taken the plunge on a Poynting puck antenna and Teltonika router ...Now need to mount the antenna on the roof of the van (Adria Twin PVC).....

I was hoping to avoid cutting (another) hole in the roof if possible with all the added hassle of internal trim removal and wondered what better qualified funsters might think of attaching puck to the roof rails and feeding the cable inside through the bathroom vent?

Its close enough to where I want to site the router inside the van, and once inside I can run the cable in some trunking over the top of the bathroom ceiling. As far as I can tell, the vent is a permanently open, simple offset design (no extractor fan or anything, and a horizontal hole as marked in photo below, would be under the lip of the vent and would be very easy to seal on both sides with sikaflex....

Has anyone done this before or can maybe see why this would be a bad idea ? Second photo shows where I'd expect the hole on the inside to appear

IMG_3261.webp


IMG_3262.webp
 
I don't have one of these finding a phone hotspot adequate but I believe the cable from antenna to router should be as short as possible. I would go for the hole in the roof over a roof locker near the router. The antenna covers the hole.
 
And I thought my roof was dirty :D

Rather than mount on the roof rails, consider getting a raised bracket or plate to fit the aerial. https://www.motorhomewifi.com/product/stand-off/ may be similar elsewhere. That can be stuck down with Sikaflex type adhesive.

I am in the process of upgrading my aerial. The new Poynting 4x4 Mimo, suited to the Teltonika (I didn't bother with the versions that had wifi and other connections) has 4 separate co-axial cables, within a braided loom. That is a pain to get a waterproof joint however it is penetrating as most of the cable housings are for only single or two cables. The Poynting also has the cables prewired with the SMA connector ends, which don't fit through the many housing feeds. I may have to get a new crimping tool and replacement connectors :( It will however let me shorten the cables from the supplied 2m, which is longer than I want.

I'm not sure with the height of your mushroom vent if you can successfully feed them without risking water ingress. Cutting the vent or drilling it may see it shatter as I expect the plastic to be brittle.
 
A hole in the roof would save a little on cable run ....I reckon only about 80cms. It comes with a 2m cable so to maximize the benefit I would also have to cut and reattach all the connectors. It would also mean removing the cupboards and some ceiling trim in the lounge area, to get access

And I thought my roof was dirty :D

Rather than mount on the roof rails, consider getting a raised bracket or plate to fit the aerial. https://www.motorhomewifi.com/product/stand-off/ may be similar elsewhere. That can be stuck down with Sikaflex type adhesive.

I am in the process of upgrading my aerial. The new Poynting 4x4 Mimo, suited to the Teltonika (I didn't bother with the versions that had wifi and other connections) has 4 separate co-axial cables, within a braided loom. That is a pain to get a waterproof joint however it is penetrating as most of the cable housings are for only single or two cables. The Poynting also has the cables prewired with the SMA connector ends, which don't fit through the many housing feeds. I may have to get a new crimping tool and replacement connectors :( It will however let me shorten the cables from the supplied 2m, which is longer than I want.

I'm not sure with the height of your mushroom vent if you can successfully feed them without risking water ingress. Cutting the vent or drilling it may see it shatter as I expect the plastic to be brittle.
Yep - unfortunately at the moment the van stays out in all weathers on the drive 😁

I think the plastic is pretty brittle - the top cap clips on but I didnt fancy trying to unclip it in this freezing weather. If I can site the hole as high as possible under the cap, above the level of the roof channel (my photo shows the hole site too low), then any water should in theory run away down the channel. ...But yes, its a good point, the braiding around the cables won't help ...
I think you're right - not shattering it will be the main challenge - I guess in the worst case I could chop the old vent out and replace it.
 
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I fixed mine by drilling a hole through the roof obviously on top of a ridge and went into the wall cupboard. I had the advantage of doing the conversion so I knew what I was drilling through. I would not attempt to shorten the provided cables.

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Whatever route you decide on, make sure you do not take the cable round any sharp bends.

Geoff
 
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