Wheel bolts keep coming loose. Wrong size ?

[SJA42]

I thought owning a MH / PVC was meant to be fun !
Having stressed about buying new wheels and tyres for a while I have finally gone an bought them.

I moved from 15" steel wheels to 16" alloys but that has just given me a new headache - wheel bolts.

The alloys came with a set of M14 / 1.5mm - 33mm long black wheel bolts (and locking bolts) and having fitted the wheels on with these new bolts they just don't seem to stay tight.

I have fitted them using a torque wrench, set to the 160nm recommended by the supplier, but after pottering up and down the road they become loose and need at least one crank of the wrench to get them back to torque.

I assume they are simply no good and I need to replace them very asap.

Apologies for not knowing the correct name for parts of the bolts but the thread length of the new black bolt does seem to be the same as the old silver ones however the chamfered "head" of the new black bolts is noticeable narrower. Is this the reason for the slackening off issue ?

See photos for size comparison - the new black bolts do seem to be a bit lost within the recess on the wheel.

Do I just need to buy bolts with an approx 28mm diameter "head" ?
I haven't tried putting all my old bolts back in yet but will do that before I move the van again (unless I get some new proper fitting ones first).

Thanks.

 

[poppycamper]

In addition to chucking away torque wrenches, I see you’re slagging off ratchet ring spinners too!
Clearly, you haven’t removed many car bumpers or fitted towbars! Ratchet ring spanner’s are invaluable for that job (and others) where there simply isn’t room to get a conventional ratchet and socket in.
The alternative would be a standard open ended spanner, going one flat at a time. Removing the bumper could take all morning at that rate, not to mention the skinned knuckles!

TonyEmm
Is this a repeat of the thread about A Frames (I can't remember the exact thread title and really not that bothered or interested to search ) but basically ANYBODY and I mean ANYBODY that does not agree with your views were subsiquenty bombarded with incessant drivel about how you appear to have seen it/done it/are more professional/are better/and your company is the bestest ever company ever.
If it is a bite or argument you are after... you need to go else where and maybe a bit of therapy by torquing up your motorhome (do you actually have one) wheels nuts or get your ratchet ring spanner out and take it a walk with your nut runner.
I was not slagging the above.. I was only saying in my day (and yes i am also an EX marine engineer (steam and nuclear)) that we did not have the benefit of the above.. so we had to use spanners open ended and ring...however if you could actually have the luxury of space then... OMG use a ratchet.
Is it your goal in life to get peoples back up so much they eventually reply in such a way that Jim has no option but to send them to Coventry... sure you will correct me but did that not happen during the "A frame " debate.
Must go now and give my wheel nuts a good wholoping wi my lump hammer to make sure they tight.

 

[pappajohn]

Could it be the shiny finish just isn't providing enough friction either in the shoulder or in the threads?? Some loctite might help?

Definitely not.
Wheel stud/nut torque settings are for a dry clean thread.

 

[TonyEmm]

TonyEmm
Is this a repeat of the thread about A Frames (I can't remember the exact thread title and really not that bothered or interested to search ) but basically ANYBODY and I mean ANYBODY that does not agree with your views were subsiquenty bombarded with incessant drivel about how you appear to have seen it/done it/are more professional/are better/and your company is the bestest ever company ever.
If it is a bite or argument you are after... you need to go else where and maybe a bit of therapy by torquing up your motorhome (do you actually have one) wheels nuts or get your ratchet ring spanner out and take it a walk with your nut runner.
I was not slagging the above.. I was only saying in my day (and yes i am also an EX marine engineer (steam and nuclear)) that we did not have the benefit of the above.. so we had to use spanners open ended and ring...however if you could actually have the luxury of space then... OMG use a ratchet.
Is it your goal in life to get peoples back up so much they eventually reply in such a way that Jim has no option but to send them to Coventry... sure you will correct me but did that not happen during the "A frame " debate.
Must go now and give my wheel nuts a good wholoping wi my lump hammer to make sure they tight.

Get a life! You claim to be an engineer but then state that torque wrenches are a useless piece of kit only fit for amateurs?

As for ratchet ring spanners, if they’re available, why not use them?

The ’funsters’ here will LOVE you for bringing up a-frames…. Yet again!

 

[Jamesh]

Definitely not.
Wheel stud/nut torque settings are for a dry clean thread.

I must admit the loctite suggestion was a bit wide of the mark but the black finish on the OP bolts might have something to do with it?

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[Wabs]

TonyEmm
Is this a repeat of the thread about A Frames (I can't remember the exact thread title and really not that bothered or interested to search ) but basically ANYBODY and I mean ANYBODY that does not agree with your views were subsiquenty bombarded with incessant drivel about how you appear to have seen it/done it/are more professional/are better/and your company is the bestest ever company ever.
If it is a bite or argument you are after... you need to go else where and maybe a bit of therapy by torquing up your motorhome (do you actually have one) wheels nuts or get your ratchet ring spanner out and take it a walk with your nut runner.
I was not slagging the above.. I was only saying in my day (and yes i am also an EX marine engineer (steam and nuclear)) that we did not have the benefit of the above.. so we had to use spanners open ended and ring...however if you could actually have the luxury of space then... OMG use a ratchet.
Is it your goal in life to get peoples back up so much they eventually reply in such a way that Jim has no option but to send them to Coventry... sure you will correct me but did that not happen during the "A frame " debate.
Must go now and give my wheel nuts a good wholoping wi my lump hammer to make sure they tight.

I think that’s a little severe, everyone is trying to help each other, I don’t think anyone is intentionally being nasty

 

[lekkerSA]

From the wheel pics it appears as if the stud cone size is incorrect; it is too small and is hence entering the wheel cone too far. If you remove the wheel and look at the back face of the wheel with the stud inserted you will probably see that the cone protrudes just beyond the wheel mount surface and hence the stud bottoms out against the hub mounting face -I would expect the stud cone minor dia face the be at least 0.5mm below the wheel mounting face with the stud placed in the wheel First check that the supplier has given you the correct studs for the new wheels as it will not be possible insert just to add a cone spacer without remachining the cone location in the wheel You can do the same check with the OE studs and if they do not protrude, better to use those
Note - after-market wheels should have a load rating on them relating to the rim rolling and bending moment fatigue test approvals - be sure the load rating exceeds the max axle rating for your vehicle

 

[lekkerSA]

From the wheel pics it appears as if the stud cone size is incorrect; it is too small and is hence entering the wheel cone too far. If you remove the wheel and look at the back face of the wheel with the stud inserted you will probably see that the cone protrudes just beyond the wheel mount surface and hence the stud bottoms out against the hub mounting face -I would expect the stud cone minor dia face the be at least 0.5mm below the wheel mounting face with the stud placed in the wheel First check that the supplier has given you the correct studs for the new wheels as it will not be possible insert just to add a cone spacer without remachining the cone location in the wheel You can do the same check with the OE studs and if they do not protrude, better to use those
Note - after-market wheels should have a load rating on them relating to the rim rolling and bending moment fatigue test approvals - be sure the load rating exceeds the max axle rating for your vehicle

 

[lekkerSA]

sorry,,,,as it will not be possible just to add a cone spacer insert without remachining....

 

[ALKE]

Inncorect on 16" wheel it's 180nm for steel wheels, for alloys it's 160nm.

Phoned elite wheels who I bought alloys from they told me 180nm for my alloys checked after 50 miles back was spot on front needed small torque to reset I used the original bolts from steel wheels

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[Lenny HB]

Phoned elite wheels who I bought alloys from they told me 180nm for my alloys

Not what Fiat say.

 

[ALKE]

Yes but they’re not fiat wheels msw48 thanks for the heads up Lenny b