What's 'normal' voltage for vehicle battery?

[IannF]

Apologies for naive question from a complete newcomer. Have looked for answers in other posts but none quite match. Bought a new Ford-based Bailey Adamo in October so used little, given awful weather, before winter storage. Fitted with Sentinel Ultimate tracker the app gives me info on the vehicle battery voltage and this seems to run down rapidly. I don't know what 'normal' or 'good' voltage would be but after a 35 mile drive (on dual carriageways so mostly around 60mph) it usually settles at 12.2v. Just a few days later this will be down below 12v. We've been taking the van out for the same run around every five or six days with the same result. Today it was down to 11.7v before the run out. The solar panel trickle charges only the leisure battery. Noted advice about fitting a battery master. I couldn't possibly install one myself and the dealer won't; says it a Ford problem. Shortly we need to be away from home for two weeks+ so won't be able to continue with runs out. How low does the voltage need to go before the engine won't start at all?

 

[Carpmart]

12.7v is fully charged.

11.7 is way too low…

 

[IannF]

That's certainly helpful so thanks. Am I right in thinking that even in the far north of England in winter this rate of drainage is not usual?

 

[Carpmart]

That's certainly helpful so thanks. Am I right in thinking that even in the far north of England in winter this rate of drainage is not usual?

If you’re running an always on tracker you aren’t able to shut down properly, so will have a constant parasitic drain, which is further exasperated by cold weather too.

 

[PaulW2]

Apologies for naive question from a complete newcomer. Have looked for answers in other posts but none quite match. Bought a new Ford-based Bailey Adamo in October so used little, given awful weather, before winter storage. Fitted with Sentinel Ultimate tracker the app gives me info on the vehicle battery voltage and this seems to run down rapidly. I don't know what 'normal' or 'good' voltage would be but after a 35 mile drive (on dual carriageways so mostly around 60mph) it usually settles at 12.2v. Just a few days later this will be down below 12v. We've been taking the van out for the same run around every five or six days with the same result. Today it was down to 11.7v before the run out. The solar panel trickle charges only the leisure battery. Noted advice about fitting a battery master. I couldn't possibly install one myself and the dealer won't; says it a Ford problem. Shortly we need to be away from home for two weeks+ so won't be able to continue with runs out. How low does the voltage need to go before the engine won't start at all?

Could you take it for a longer run? It may be that you aren't managing to charge it fully in 35 miles, getting it to maybe 60% charge.

Or just put it on a trickle charger.

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[IannF]

In October our first trip was to Cayton Bay near Scarborough, around 100 miles from here. I wish now I'd looked to see what the state of the charge was after that. Lack of experience alas!

 

[PaulW2]

In October our first trip was to Cayton Bay near Scarborough, around 100 miles from here. I wish now I'd looked to see what the state of the charge was after that. Lack of experience alas!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B094VQ88X2/?tag=mhf04-21

I've got one of these. May be easier than spending many hours on the road!

 

[Lenny HB]

It will have a Smart alternator and they don't start charging until the battery is down to 12.2 - 12.4v but should never be down at 11. 7v. I would say it's a Ford problem. But t have Bailey fitted a B2B to charge the leisure battery if they haven't and relying on split charge relay that could be the problem.

 

[FrankNicklin]

Parasitic drain will pull a battery down very quickly. Trackers, alarms, radios, ECUs all draw power constantly. Your tracker is permanently live in order For it to present you will the battery condition remotely. When on the road the charge voltage should be somewhere around 13.5 to 14.8 volts I believe. Unless you can get the van on EHU the getting the battery up to a good level will need a run out every couple of weeks. You say winter storage is this at home or Secure storage. If at home plug in to home mains, if in storage move the van to a mains outlet and get it on charge, or lastly solar. I have 100w in my windscreen which just about keeps up with the parasitic drain, you will likely need a lot more if drain is heavy.

 

[IannF]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B094VQ88X2/?tag=mhf04-21

I've got one of these. May be easier than spending many hours on the road!

I'd be seriously challenged to take the battery out to recharge it (the battery itself is under the passenger seat while there are points under the bonnet for jump starting) and concerned about how battery removal would affect the tracker system?

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[IannF]

Parasitic drain will pull a battery down very quickly. Trackers, alarms, radios, ECUs all draw power constantly. Your tracker is permanently live in order For it to present you will the battery condition remotely. When on the road the charge voltage should be somewhere around 13.5 to 14.8 volts I believe. Unless you can get the van on EHU the getting the battery up to a good level will need a run out every couple of weeks. You say winter storage is this at home or Secure storage. If at home plug in to home mains, if in storage move the van to a mains outlet and get it on charge, or lastly solar. I have 100w in my windscreen which just about keeps up with the parasitic drain, you will likely need a lot more if drain is heavy.

It's in secure storage around ten miles away. It would be no problem to bring it home and hook it up to electrics for a few hours but I believe that affects only the leisure battery?

 

[PaulW2]

I'd be seriously challenged to take the battery out to recharge it (the battery itself is under the passenger seat while there are points under the bonnet for jump starting) and concerned about how battery removal would affect the tracker system?

AFAIK you can simply trickle charge via the jump starting points

 

[IannF]

It will have a Smart alternator and they don't start charging until the battery is down to 12.2 - 12.4v but should never be down at 11. 7v. I would say it's a Ford problem. But t have Bailey fitted a B2B to charge the leisure battery if they haven't and relying on split charge relay that could be the problem.

I really appreciate the reply but sorry to say I simply don't understand what the last sentence means..?

 

[FrankNicklin]

It's in secure storage around ten miles away. It would be no problem to bring it home and hook it up to electrics for a few hours but I believe that affects only the leisure battery?

I don’t know your MH, but my charger will charge either van or leisure by the flick of a switch on the controller panel when on EHU.

 

[Adders]

Apologies for naive question from a complete newcomer. Have looked for answers in other posts but none quite match. Bought a new Ford-based Bailey Adamo in October so used little, given awful weather, before winter storage. Fitted with Sentinel Ultimate tracker the app gives me info on the vehicle battery voltage and this seems to run down rapidly. I don't know what 'normal' or 'good' voltage would be but after a 35 mile drive (on dual carriageways so mostly around 60mph) it usually settles at 12.2v. Just a few days later this will be down below 12v. We've been taking the van out for the same run around every five or six days with the same result. Today it was down to 11.7v before the run out. The solar panel trickle charges only the leisure battery. Noted advice about fitting a battery master. I couldn't possibly install one myself and the dealer won't; says it a Ford problem. Shortly we need to be away from home for two weeks+ so won't be able to continue with runs out. How low does the voltage need to go before the engine won't start at all?

Hi - You are going through the same experience that I have. I too bought a brand new Ford based Motorhome (Roller Team not Bailey) back in September and have it in a secure compound with a tracker fitted. Like you the cab battery was lasting about 4 weeks max when not being driven before it got down to worryingly low levels, and like you I was worrying it was going to be a warranty job with ford. Early December I fitted a battery master from vanbitz after reading the advice to others on her. Was very easy to fit (all three required connections were in the main 12v distribution box in one of the cupboards), this means if the cab battery drops more than 0.5v less than the hab battery the unit trickle charges the cab battery from the hab battery, and because I have a solar panel that charges the hab battery this constantly gets topped up. Problem has gone away, I see the cab battery gradually drop then it hits its threshold and jumps back up to about 12.7v. Let me know if you need more info.

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[IannF]

That's really helpful to know so thanks. I am utterly hopeless with anything practical, let alone electrical, so I don't think I'd even recognise which connections were which let alone make the thing work. I tried watching a YouTube video of how to fit one and got lost after the first few minutes. Maybe I should try looking again. I appreciate your detailed response!

 

[hja]

I'd be seriously challenged to take the battery out to recharge it (the battery itself is under the passenger seat while there are points under the bonnet for jump starting) and concerned about how battery removal would affect the tracker system?

Is that the cab battery or the leisure battery?

 

[IannF]

The cab battery

 

[Adders]

I'd be seriously challenged to take the battery out to recharge it (the battery itself is under the passenger seat while there are points under the bonnet for jump starting) and concerned about how battery removal would affect the tracker system?

I took mine out to charge it initially (before I fitted the battery master), a bit fiddley at first but once you know how it is relatively easy to get it out from under the drivers seat (5min job). Regarding the tracker functionality with the battery missing, whilst it technically wouldn't be insured with the tracker not working, I worked on the principle it was in a locked compound with the manager living on site (farm) and even if they got in they couldn't start it so would need a recovery truck to take it away. Thought this was unlikely in the 3 days I had the battery out of the vehicle especially as it is is with about 25 other Motorhomes . A full charge cycle from a modern battery charger specific to the type of battery (AGM) did help as there is a start phase that effectively reconditions the battery - however it wasn't the solution as I mentioned above.

 

[Bognor Saint]

I have the same Bailey Adamo as you and also the same tracker. Ours is kept in storage and when I noticed the cab battery getting low I requested an EHU from the storage yard. I was puzzled to note that the battery level remained low. After a trip to the yard I discovered that the control panel needed to be switched on ( previous MH's this was not necessary).
Ours must be set up differently to yours as the solar will put a charge into both batteries. This is my first experience with a solar panel so I don't know if this is normal or not but looking at the controller it seems there may be options.

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[Lenny HB]

I really appreciate the reply but sorry to say I simply don't understand what the last sentence means..?

With the year of your van it will have a smart altenator it needs a B2B (battery to battery charger also known as a DC to DC charger) to charge the leisure battery. most manufacturers fit them but Bailey and other Brit manufacturers don't fit them on a lot of their models. They just fit the old fashion split charge relay which just connects the starter battery to the lesiure battery.

Like you the cab battery was lasting about 4 weeks max when not being driven

4 weeks is very good for a motorhome if the battery is not being charged.

 

[Jonno1103]

With the Ford try not to enter the van through the drivers cab door, always the hab' door and try not to use the central locking. Opening the former using the Ford key fires up the vehicles BCM which will then remain active for around 15 minutes. This has a detrimental effect on the life of the 92Ah AGM base vehicle battery housed under the drivers seat without hook up.

Use the Phantom supplied fob to deactivate the alarm and use the Hartal door key to enter your motorhome.

We have a June 2020 registered AT F70 F Line, the base vehicle was built October 2019. It also has Phantom's Sentinel Ultimate. If not on hook up expect a fully charged base vehicle battery to last between 4-6 weeks max until it's dead, it will then need replacing.

 

[FrankNicklin]

There seems to be a complete lack of information coming from dealers about battery care going forwards after purchase. Many Many buyers will put vans in storage or not have access to EHU when not being used. In my mind the vehicle batteries supplied are not fit for purpose given the increased parasitic drain from alarms, trackers, ECU's radios etc. Looks to me the vehicle battery is as supplied on the base vehicle, the manufacturer then adds a ton of power hungry additions but leaves the battery as is. I bet no dealer says to the buyer, by the way unless you use your MH regularly expect you battery to die in four to six weeks and you will need to spend £100 plus to replace it. Add in the fussy airbag controllers due to low voltage and it becomes a costly issue.

 

[Jonno1103]

There seems to be a complete lack of information coming from dealers about battery care going forwards after purchase. Many Many buyers will put vans in storage or not have access to EHU when not being used. In my mind the vehicle batteries supplied are not fit for purpose given the increased parasitic drain from alarms, trackers, ECU's radios etc. Looks to me the vehicle battery is as supplied on the base vehicle, the manufacturer then adds a ton of power hungry additions but leaves the battery as is. I bet no dealer says to the buyer, by the way unless you use your MH regularly expect you battery to die in four to six weeks and you will need to spend £100 plus to replace it. Add in the fussy airbag controllers due to low voltage and it becomes a costly issue.

I dunno, cars are the same... tracker, alarm etc. Start/Stop isn't any good for them either. Difference is we tend to drive them everyday. My missus bought a new Polo GTi from a posh VW garage 2 years ago and the battery was knackered.

 

[FrankNicklin]

I dunno, cars are the same... tracker, alarm etc. Start/Stop isn't any good for them either. Difference is we tend to drive them everyday. My missus bought a new Polo GTi from a posh VW garage 2 years ago and the battery was knackered.

Yes exactly they are driven every day, certainly not laid up for 6 weeks at a time which is my point.

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[Derbyshire wanderer]

I have the same Bailey Adamo as you and also the same tracker. Ours is kept in storage and when I noticed the cab battery getting low I requested an EHU from the storage yard. I was puzzled to note that the battery level remained low. After a trip to the yard I discovered that the control panel needed to be switched on ( previous MH's this was not necessary).
Ours must be set up differently to yours as the solar will put a charge into both batteries. This is my first experience with a solar panel so I don't know if this is normal or not but looking at the controller it seems there may be options.

You need to be mindful of the overall consumption of the control panel can be well above the solar input in winter. Fitting a battery master allows trickle charging of the vehicle battery when solar availability is good without using any habitation battery capacity for the control panel.

 

[Bognor Saint]

You need to be mindful of the overall consumption of the control panel can be well above the solar input in winter. Fitting a battery master allows trickle charging of the vehicle battery when solar availability is good without using any habitation battery capacity for the control panel.

Probably should have said that the solar is of no benefit when in storage as it is kept in barn storage.
I just ask for a hook up when needed.

 

[Derbyshire wanderer]

Probably should have said that the solar is of no benefit when in storage as it is kept in barn storage.
I just ask for a hook up when needed.

That is good that you have power available when needed . Just wanted you to be aware that some modern control panels use as much as 0.7a just on standby as they are monitoring so many sensors etc and will flatten the hab battery in days

 

[Jev88]

You mention there is no way you could fit a battery master?
In case you haven't seen one it is a box with just 2 wires. Two of them directly to your positive on your battery terminals.

 

[IannF]

I want to say thanks to this forum. This was my first post and I'm sure it was a question many experienced members will have seen asked many times before. Nevertheless I thought the sheer number of people replying with helpful suggestions was especially encouraging and I've certainly learned a lot. In summary I take away from this the two part message; learn how to better organise EHU in the winter months; get a Battery Master fitted! Both now in hand. My thanks to all who responded