Waxoyling a 2009 Peugeot Boxer

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DM14742

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I have an Autosleeper Warwick and want to Waxoyl underneath including as many box sections as I can gain access to.
I have looked at the sills and noticed that they have plastic plugs along the length underneath, I assume that by removing these I can introduce waxoyl into the sill sections and refit them afterwards. Has anyone done this to confirm my assumption ?
I am also trying to find drainage holes in the sills to allow moisture out, I can't see any but wonder if the plugs I mentioned act as drains, I don't know if they would allow tiny amounts of water out but would like to ensure that they are clear if they do exist. Has anyone got any tips regarding applying Waxoyl? I was going to warm it up a little so it flows easier and use a garden pressure spray to apply it. I will be on my back in the drive so haven't the advantage of a vehicle lift. Will use goggles and dustmask and give the underside a thorough clean first.
 
I had a quote for £500 inc vat for a professional install last week. Includes all voids and cab doors. They clean it beforehand so all should be good
DIY on the drive seems a hard choice. That said I haven't yet decided wether to proceed.
 
Zains Pops said:
I had a quote for £500 inc vat for a professional install last week. Includes all voids and cab doors. They clean it beforehand so all should be good
DIY on the drive seems a hard choice. That said I haven't yet decided wether to proceed.
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I was going to go that route too but am struggling with £500 ( I'm a Yorkshireman ) :D so am up for DIY but hopefully some experienced help / advice will come along!
 
Hi Jez,
Put the container u are spraying from in a bucket of near boiling water. Make sure u have plenty of cardboard underneath to catch all the drips and there will be lots.
Depending on the distance from an access hole in box sections a spray that only points forward may not reach all surfaces. I madeup a length of pipe with the end capped and with holes around the circumference so that the spray was coming out sideways.
I found it was a filthy job and would never do it again myself but needs must when strapped for cash.
Hth

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Dinotrol is a far better product than Waxoyl, but does not matter what you use if the preparation is not done properly. Commercial applicators will steam clean the chassis inside and out, some then use a dewatering solution and finally have the vehicle in a drying booth to ensure no moisture remains in the box sections.

If you mess this up on your driveway all you succeed in doing is encapusulating mud and water into the crevices of the chassis, accelerating the tin worm, wasting your money and leaving black tarry drips on your drive when the sun shines.

Layout the cash once and get on with enjoying using your Moho, you know it makes sense.
 
I did this on our first van and it is a mucky job.

I used an air compressor and a Schulz gun and it takes a fair bit of pressure to push it through.

You will need to get the oil warm or it just does not like to flow. I used lots of very hot water and a bucket.

Every thing you use for the work with be covered when you finish including the drive and of course you.
 
@Jez and Lin. :)

Jez, I did the Waxoyl thing on a grey import Isuzu Bighorn (Trooper) 4x4, using the hydraulic hoist in the Brigade Workshops. Although I wasn't lying on my back, it was still a bitch of a job, for all the reasons mentioned by others above. :( Even with the workshop fan extractors operational whilst I was doing the job, I was covered in the stuff, and the 4x4 also had a fine layer of Waxoyl all over it, as did the hoist, and the surrounding floor area. :( The clean up took me ages, using white spirit. :(

TBH pal, I'd be finding the right firm to do it and parting with my money........................as hard as that might be for yourself. ;)

Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
I did ours on the drive.
Very messy but everything was definitely done correctly.
You can't beat DIY to guarantee peace of mind that the job was done right.
A decent capacity compressor is required to ensure good quality injection of the waxoyl in cavities though. I wouldn't fancy trying it with the plastic pump thingy you get in Halfords!
 
I do my Hilux on the drive , evan though I can crawl underneath it I still need to use ramps. Its a complete pig of a job, dont fancy trying do the boxer that way . Only advice I can add to whats already been said is mask anything underneath like exhaust and around brake disks etc with news paper and buy some cheap polythene dust sheets and cover the whole van before you start as the mist gets every where.

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When I had mine treated I booked it in with a waxoyl appointed applicator.
I was given the postcode of their premises.
Turned up and it was down a track to an old yard and a couple of barns and an outside hydraulic ramp.
The guy turned up in a van. I said that I thought it would have been at a proper depot.
He said its so messy cleaning them and applying the product that it's easier to use an out of the way place.
Have to say they were very good.
When I took the van in for its MOT with the guy who has always done it he said that they had done a really good job on it.
 
Although £500 or there abouts is expensive. How long does this last. Is it the life -reasonable price, of the vehicle or just a few years - expensive.
 
Longevity of the particular treatment chosen is dependant on the type of service the vehicle is exposed to and the ongoing care given after treatment.
 
I would be happy to part with the dosh if I knew it was going to be done properly and therein lies the problem for me. When it comes to injecting into box sections, sills etc how are you to know it's been done? I think I'd rather do it myself in spite of it been a mucky job because I just don't trust anyone I don't know to do the job properly.

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Zigisla said:
Although £500 or there abouts is expensive. How long does this last. Is it the life -reasonable price, of the vehicle or just a few years - expensive.
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I've been told about 8 years by a vehicle body technician
 
Dinotrol application uses airless technology to generate a high pressure fog inside the box sections without the use of solvents or thinners which can cause slumping and runoff from vertical surfaces. The nozzles on the spray lances used provide a 360 deg fan and an experienced operator will be listening to the pump (Graco or Aro) stroking so knows he is introducing the correct volume of product. This is way beyond what can be achieved on your driveway with a garden sprayer and a bucket of hot water trying to keep Waxoyl thin enough to pass through a nozzle designed for water. Add up the cost of the products, purchasing a garden sprayer, masking tape, plastic sheets, your time and still make a hash of it, it really makes sense to get a professional to do it.
I have no affiliation to any particular service but recommend you check out Rustbuster.
 
Sheldon C said:
Dinotrol application uses airless technology to generate a high pressure fog inside the box sections without the use of solvents or thinners which can cause slumping and runoff from vertical surfaces. The nozzles on the spray lances used provide a 360 deg fan and an experienced operator will be listening to the pump (Graco or Aro) stroking so knows he is introducing the correct volume of product. This is way beyond what can be achieved on your driveway with a garden sprayer and a bucket of hot water trying to keep Waxoyl thin enough to pass through a nozzle designed for water. Add up the cost of the products, purchasing a garden sprayer, masking tape, plastic sheets, your time and still make a hash of it, it really makes sense to get a professional to do it.
I have no affiliation to any particular service but recommend you check out Rustbuster.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that information. I will check up Rustbuster, I agree that it would make sense so long as they do do it properly, I also wondered if conversation companies such as Autosleeper, I.h. etc carry out any further rustproofing in addition to what's been added by the vehicle manufacturers? Considering the cost of a new PVC which can easily be £50000 plus I would have thought the weak link long term considering the financial investment is corrosion and it would be best protected from new when the Van is clean underneath.
 
question is why? the van is galvanised

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mitzimad said:
question is why? the van is galvanised
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So was my 2001 Fiat Ducato PVC. I've just had all the inner sills and one wheel arch welded due to tin worm so whilst galvanising obviously helps it doesn't appear to halt rust over the longer term!
 
On the same theme, i've got a 51 plate boxer with the usual rust in the wheel arches. MOT due in sept and at the last service the garage recommended undersealing after the rust has been repaired. Looking underneath (compass avantgarde) there is quite a bit of plywood visible. Assuming the underseal is there to prevent rust so will only be applied to chassis etc, what if anything should I (or the garage) treat the plywood with?
 

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