Waxoil yes or no?

[Tim P]

I have just had my 2021 Elddis Envy 185 in for its first biannual service at 12860 miles. I had it done at an independent as my local Peugeot dealer can't do vehicles over 2.1m high, and the next nearest is miles away. The Mechanic that did the service said there was "nothing wrong an everything was good" however he also mentioned that while the chassis extensions we galvanised the rest of the vehicle was not an suggested perhaps to get it waxoiled as protection against rust.
It seems strange that Peugeot do not put any kind of rust inhibitor on their chassis and obviously Elddis don't. Any comments gratefully received.

 

[TheBig1]

Waxoyl is no longer the best solution, lanoguard is much better and still allows you to see if any rusting starts

 

[Guigsy]

I'm pretty sure that the chassis is galvanized. Sevel vans take a good while to rot. My 2007 was still pretty much perfect other than some bubbles on the cills behind the driver's door.

 

[Lenny HB]

The Fiat's are galvanized so I would expect the Peugeot's to be as well.

 

[Gromett]

Galvanisation does not give rust proofing, it just slows it down.

I agree with TheBig1 and would also recommend against waxoyl and go with Lanoguard or Fluid film. Highly effective.

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[Gromett]

I was just starting to write a quick explainer of galvanisation for those who don't understand what it means and remembered my chatGPT subscription. Here is what it had to say. I completely agree with it.

 

[Ditcha]

Fiat's are galvanized and painted, all coated steel wether or not it's galvanized, painted or other special coatings is just a way of extending the the life of steel. Galvanizing if by far better than most as the whole structure is dipped in a hot vat of zinc so gets in all the places other coatings can't reach but still not 100%.

 

[TheBig1]

The thing with galvanising or painting is that it creates a barrier, but anything that breaks through the barrier, scratches or drilling will leave raw steel exposed. Especially with drilling or cutting, the localised heat produced will cause very quick oxidising of the area which then spreads under coating. A very important reason never to drill into or cut a galvanised chassis like the ALKO ones. You often see the begginings of rusting soon after accessories like towbars etc get bolted on. A quick application of rust converter, allow it to dry and coat with lanolin based rust inhibitor will prolong the life of the van

Likewise, if your vehicle gets damaged and the metal bodywork repaired, it lets rust start from the inside of the panel. Coating the inside with lanolin based inhibitor will extend the life of the vehicle

 

[chatteris]

I'm pretty sure that the chassis is galvanized. Sevel vans take a good while to rot. My 2007 was still pretty much perfect other than some bubbles on the cills behind the driver's door.

my work van a 2007 citroen relay has had o/s outer sill welding front and rear and will need o/s front inner arch and n/s inner sill repairs for next mot

 

[Otter Spotter]

I have been looking at Lanoguard, but I can’t get a proper answer regarding whether I need to use a rust inhibitor on any existing rust before coating it in Lanoguard what the consensus?

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[TheBig1]

I will always treat any existing rust before applying Lanoguard. A rust converter on very light surface rust and a proper clean up on anything flaky or worse

 

[PP Bear]

I’ve used this extensively across all my vehicles, including the van. Easy to apply as well with a very good spray discharge.
Removed all inner wings on the car and front ones on the van and everywhere’s had a good under-sealing

 

[Gromett]

I’ve used this extensively across all my vehicles, including the van. Easy to apply as well with a very good spray discharge.
Removed all inner wings on the car and front ones on the van and everywhere’s had a good under-sealing

View attachment 754551

I personally avoid stuff like that. It rusts from behind and you can't tell until it is too late. I really hate the stuff now.

 

[Gromett]

I’ve used this extensively across all my vehicles, including the van. Easy to apply as well with a very good spray discharge.
Removed all inner wings on the car and front ones on the van and everywhere’s had a good under-sealing

View attachment 754551

check this video out My van rusted from behind after using this. I ended up writing the van off.

 

[TheBig1]

I have seen a car where pretty much the whole floor pan dropped off in one piece just after passing an MOT. It was covered in underseal, which hid the extensive rust under the carpets. Black waxoyl is very similar and is a magnet for dirt sticking to it. Working on it afterwards is a messy job and welding becomes a big gamble

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[Otter Spotter]

I have seen a car where pretty much the whole floor pan dropped off in one piece just after passing an MOT. It was covered in underseal, which hid the extensive rust under the carpets. Black waxoyl is very similar and is a magnet for dirt sticking to it. Working on it afterwards is a messy job and welding becomes a big gamble

Are you talking about Waxoyl or Lanoguard? Years ago I waxoyled couple of my cars, including a Rover SDI but they were sold before I saw any problems, except it was sticky, messy and a pain to get off the paintwork when I oversprayed.

 

[bigwood]

My father used to swear by Supertrol now Dinatrol applied using a spray gun and compresor.
Since I lost the use of a workshop I now use Bilt and Hamber simply because it comes in large spray cans with long nozzles.

 

[Gromett]

Are you talking about Waxoyl or Lanoguard? Years ago I waxoyled couple of my cars, including a Rover SDI but they were sold before I saw any problems, except it was sticky, messy and a pain to get off the paintwork when I oversprayed.

The problem with waxoyl is that it is a waxy coating and traps moisture behind it. You have to apply it to perfectly clean, dry and as rust free as possible. I have seen a waxoyl'd car with rust behind it.

Dinatrol

I tried Dinatrol and it failed failed fairly quickly with rust creeping behind the coating. I was initially a big fan of it. but got dissapointed after 2 years with the results.

Fluid film and high zinc primer were the only worked well for me. Fluid Film is the US version of Lanoguard.

 

[Guigsy]

my work van a 2007 citroen relay has had o/s outer sill welding front and rear and will need o/s front inner arch and n/s inner sill repairs for next mot

Which to be fair, is pretty good for a 15 year old workhorse. Sprinters of that age are riddled with tin worm. I can remember BL cars being rot boxes in 3 years.

 

[TheBig1]

Are you talking about Waxoyl or Lanoguard? Years ago I waxoyled couple of my cars, including a Rover SDI but they were sold before I saw any problems, except it was sticky, messy and a pain to get off the paintwork when I oversprayed.

The car I mentioned in the post you replied to was old fashioned underseal, as mentioned by other posters. You used to see cars bodged to get through an MOT using a flattened, opened out tin can to cover a rust hole and then smothered with underseal to hide it. A tap with a screwdriver and it appeared to be solid metal, when in reality it was tar and rust

Waxoyl is as you know wax that can be thinned down with white spirit or petrol. To be effective it needs checking and topping up once a year or after anything scratches or splits it. The problem is that it rusts behind the coating and especially if you use the black version, it hides what is going on within the metal. Repairs to a waxoyled vehicle get very messy and it will actually burn if it gets hot enough

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[Gromett]

On the Waxoyl front. this is worth a quick watch. As you can see it dries out and rust can creep behind it. Because Lanoguard doesn't set and creeps it "self repairs". You do need to re-apply but it is not such a nasty job and you don't need to clean off the old stuff first.

 

[bigwood]

I did think Dinatrol seemed thinner than Supertrol and it didn’t seem to last as well. Having said that at the time I was washing my Landrovers underneath more at the time. As I said I had use of a lift and compressor to top up underneath as needed.

 

[bigwood]

On the subject of rust proofing one of foremen at the bus garage used to spray the underside of his Escort van with waste oil once a year. It stunk for about a week and left stains on the workshop floor. He was old school and stuck to his ways but good to work for.

 

[Gromett]

On the subject of rust proofing one of foremen at the bus garage used to spray the underside of his Escort van with waste oil once a year. It stunk for about a week and left stains on the workshop floor. He was old school and stuck to his ways but good to work for.

Waste oil is brilliant (except it is illegal and nasty for the envirnoment), acts the same way as Lanoguard does. One is a petroleum based oil the other is a natural oil (lanolin). Both will creep if damaged. So if you get a stone chip the oil will creep back in a restore the protection. I tested this on a few samples. I scratched one and rust didn't appear in the scratch. I also sprayed only half of one and it crept another 2" across it.

 

[TheBig1]

I have mentioned using rust converters above. There are various brands but most use the same chemical, tannic acid, to convert the ferric oxide to a different stable chemical compound (ferric tannate). As you brush or spray it on, it looks like a milky white liquid. Within 2 hours it turns black as it dries out. The resultant compound is inert and will prevent further rusting. You can then paint straight over or just coat with a lanolin based rust inhibitor if it won't be seen.

I used to use Jenolite rust converter, but that is a gel based acid. I now keep Fertan in the garage, which is far less harmful environmentally.

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[bluesurf989]

I've just ordered the ultimate kit from lanoguard,it should be here this weekend.I have cleaned down all the under side of our hymer ready for application,not a nice job but i think worth doing. I will let you know how i get on

 

[Ditcha]

One thing for sure is no matter what you use it's a losing battle against rust you can delay it but not stop it. I used this

Dynax-UC - Bilt Hamber

See-through long term anti-corrosion wax for bare metals or painted surfaces. Supplied with a 145mm application straw.

bilthamber.com

Used from new but not on the whole of the chassis just on vulnerable areas and bolts, nuts etc that aren't already protected seems to work well.

 

[Swamp]

I’ve been looking at Lanoguard and it looks really interesting. I used to use Waxoyl and that seemed to work well but I can see the advantages of Lanoguard even if it does suggest re-coating every year
My only uncertainty is that I believe Fiat chassis are galvanized and the FAQ section of Lanoguard‘s website specifically says that it isn’t recommended for galvanized surfaces.…

 

[Gromett]

I’ve been looking at Lanoguard and it looks really interesting. I used to use Waxoyl and that seemed to work well but I can see the advantages of Lanoguard even if it does suggest re-coating every year
My only uncertainty is that I believe Fiat chassis are galvanized and the FAQ section of Lanoguard‘s website specifically says that it isn’t recommended for galvanized surfaces.…

I am not sure they are saying you can't use it, only that it may have an interaction that affects it's appearance. I think they may be referring to uncoated galvanised steel where its' appearance matters.

To save other from having to search for it. Here is the text in full.

I read it as lanogaurding galvanised steel is not necessary so they don't recommend it. In addition it may interact and cause visual changes?

 

[TheBig1]

Fiat Chassis are painted, so ideal to lanoguard. Alko chassis are bare galvanised steel and treating that with lanoguard will make it appear darker, not shiny any more. But it works very well to prevent rusting. Especially around bolt holes and where accessories like towbars are attached

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