VAN WON'T START

Rugeley Tim

Rugeley Tim

Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Posts
299
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383
Location
Rugeley
Funster No
18,969
MH
Autotrail Savanah
Exp
Since 2009
Unfortunately I have a A/T Savannah on a 2.3 Fiat Ducato Base Vehicle, to say I have had issues since I have owned it is an under statement. The Van itself has suffered from numerous issues including de-laminating floor, damp +++ plus numerous other irritating issues. Whilst the build quality for AT is well known I have suffered even more from issues on the base vehicle which include: New Clutch, new starter motor, new leaf springs, new airbag ECU. Having returned from Oxford C&CC site yesterday without any issues I reversed on the drive to unload and switched off the engine but the wife said I was a bit too close to the bins so went to move it but the bugger was dead. Battery showing at 14.2V and no faults highlighted during the drive back but the thing won't start, turn the key and nothing which leads me to believe either a knackered starter motor (again) an earth problem or something wrong with the immobiliser any ides gratefully received although I am no mechanic.
 
Worth checking your battery terminals are tightened up, also check all main earth leads to the engine, they are renowned to need checking when this sort of problem arises.
How old is the van?
LES
 
Cant really help on the technical reason for non starting , but would question the voltage quoted we would only get 14+ Volts if running or on mains hook up

Good luck from a fellow sufferer of what might go wrong already has 🤔
 
Check the battery terminals are clean and tight and the earth connections are secure and not corroded.the latter more so if an older van.
If you turn on the headlights and try to start it do they stay bright? If they don't it's probably an earth issue if they stay bright it's probably the starter ,just give it a knock with a lump of wood and see if it kicks in.

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Van is 2013 with 40k on the clock, having just driven 200+ miles over the weekend I would have thought that (unless the alternator is knackered) that the battery should have been fully charged and if the alternator was knackered the battery light would have come on the dashboard. I do have one on those Halfords starter pack (upto 3L) which I initially tried but had no success (didn't turn over at all) but will have to pick up the LR from the place I normally keep the MH and also check the earth connections. Thanks for all the advice so far.
 
From your battery voltage the alternator appears to be ok and battery is fully charged,jump stating it will not do any better if your battery is ok ,.if it wont turn over at all it does sound like the starter but try the lights on as above. Don't forget though if you flatten the battery don't jump it or you risk your airbag ECU again.
 
Rugeley Tim said:
Van is 2013 with 40k on the clock, having just driven 200+ miles over the weekend I would have thought that (unless the alternator is knackered) that the battery should have been fully charged and if the alternator was knackered the battery light would have come on the dashboard. I do have one on those Halfords starter pack (upto 3L) which I initially tried but had no success (didn't turn over at all) but will have to pick up the LR from the place I normally keep the MH and also check the earth connections. Thanks for all the advice so far.
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If you have ordinary jump leads, just connect that between engine and chassis and then if it starts you will know it's an earth problem.
 
L' Hobo said:
If you have ordinary jump leads, just connect that between engine and chassis and then if it starts you will know it's an earth problem.
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That’s interesting 👍 would I be right to think you only need to connect the negative side of the battery ?

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DavidG58 said:
That’s interesting 👍 would I be right to think you only need to connect the negative side of the battery ?
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Yes!

Your welcome.

If your battery is showing 14.2, your Alternator should be ok if this is after a run. It will probably settle down to about 13.7 after an hour or two.
If it was me and you have had problems with it in the past, I would suspect something wrong with the starter motor, no power or earth for example?
 
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PeterCarole29 said:
Is it auto
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Good point.
Mine's an auto and was dead as a doornail one morning on a pitch. I'm a pretty clued-up mechanic but it still took me 20 mins of head scratching, testing the battery with a meter and trying jump leads with a spare battery before I noticed that I'd left it in 'D'. :doh:
(It was early, before my second brew and fag).
 
L' Hobo said:
If you have ordinary jump leads, just connect that between engine and chassis and then if it starts you will know it's an earth problem.
Click to expand...
For us complete mechanical thickos, would you please clarify what you connect to what and where with the jump leads? Thanks in hope!
 
DavidG58 said:
That’s interesting 👍 would I be right to think you only need to connect the negative side of the battery ?
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So on my van the starting points are an 'Earthing point' and a 'Live point' under the bonnet as the starter battery is hidden away under the passenger seat so I presume you attached the jump lead to the Earthing point and another part of the body? Sorry if I am being thick.
 
Give the solenoid on the top of the starter a wack with a spanner & or waggle the small elctrical connector on it as well.
TheTwoOfUs said:
What product did you find that worked a treat on the headlights?
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One end on a metal part of the engine & the other end on the battery negative terminal.

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gus-lopez said:
Give the solenoid on the top of the starter a wack with a spanner & or waggle the small elctrical connector on it as well.

One end on a metal part of the engine & the other end on the battery negative terminal.
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I think you have taken my quote from another thread and put it in a thread where it doesn't fit. ;)
 
Do not connect the positive to the chassis. You will get one heck of a spark and may damage some of the electronic bits in the van.
 
Ingwe said:
For us complete mechanical thickos, would you please clarify what you connect to what and where with the jump leads? Thanks in hope!
Click to expand...

Sorry, been eating,

Yes, get the normal jump leads, connect one end to the earth bolt under the bonnet (or any other CLEAN part of the chassis) and the other end to a clean part of the engine body, the best connection is a large bolt or stud. ( the 'proper braided earth lead is normally down beside the air filter)

As has been mentioned in a earlier post, DO NOT CONNECT THE POSITIVE (or + ) SIDE TO EARTH if your not sure, don't do it!
 
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If the OP measured the battery at 14v after trying to start the vehicle, then virtually nothing has drawn current from the battery since switching off.

So it points to: Starter connection, immobilizer, neutral switch, ignition switch etc.

Could be something as simple as a wire fallen off at solenoid. Best to check circuits with meter to narrow it down.

Geoff

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DavidG58 said:
Cant really help on the technical reason for non starting , but would question the voltage quoted we would only get 14+ Volts if running or on mains hook up

Good luck from a fellow sufferer of what might go wrong already has 🤔
Click to expand...
it will show charge voltage for a while after its disconnected
 
Rugeley Tim said:
Van is 2013 with 40k on the clock, having just driven 200+ miles over the weekend I would have thought that (unless the alternator is knackered) that the battery should have been fully charged and if the alternator was knackered the battery light would have come on the dashboard. I do have one on those Halfords starter pack (upto 3L) which I initially tried but had no success (didn't turn over at all) but will have to pick up the LR from the place I normally keep the MH and also check the earth connections. Thanks for all the advice so far.
Click to expand...
You got an LR too? That’s some fleet …😇😆😎
 
Was the battery tested on the battery poles or the clamps I helped a guy who had a full battery on the poles but 10 v on the clamps
 
donkey said:
If the OP measured the battery at 14v after trying to start the vehicle, then virtually nothing has drawn current from the battery since switching off.

So it points to: Starter connection, immobilizer, neutral switch, ignition switch etc.

Could be something as simple as a wire fallen off at solenoid. Best to check circuits with meter to narrow it down.

Geoff
Click to expand...
This plus the battery disconnect relay if it has one - do you have the red thing on the ignition barel?

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If there is no noise at all from the starter motor when you turn the key, it could easily be a loose this wire from the back of the alternator or starter solenoid that has become disconnected.
 
Have you tried it with the spare key?
When you switch the ignition on does the instrument panel light up?

If you’ve already checked and found there’s no feed to the small wire on the starter solenoid you could try the following
I recently had a none starting problem with a Skoda Octavia, the instrument panel lit up but the starter motor didn’t do anything, I traced it to a faulty starter relay in the fusebox.
Your van has 2 fuse boxes, one in front of the drivers knee and another under the bonnet on the passenger side, both boxes have fuses and relays inside, check for a blown fuse, also with the key turned all the way to the start position (before wriggling any relays) give each relay a tap with a screwdriver handle, a sticking relay would cause the problem you have now, I suspect the starter relay is in the fuse box under the bonnet.

Chris
 
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There are terminals in the engine bay for jump starting if you need to. Same on Boxer, Ducato, etc.

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