EdRedBird
Free Member
- Sep 21, 2021
- 117
- 22
- Funster No
- 84,353
- MH
- Transit Conversion
- Exp
- N00b
Hey everyone,
I have a 2010 Ford Transit that recently failed its NCT/MOT and needed a bit of welding work. I've driven it about 100 miles since getting it back. Last night, I noticed a burning smell inside the van. After checking twice and not finding the source, my passenger accidentally dropped a water bottle, and when I picked it up, I realized the box under my seat was hot.
Thinking there was a short circuit, I disconnected the DC controller and waited for a bit. The van started up, and the housing seemed to have cooled down. However, once I got to a safe spot, I realized the battery was bubbling, crackling, and leaking. I removed the seat and took out the affected battery. My Transit has two batteries, but it ran fine this morning with just one.
Now, I have a few urgent questions:
I have a 2010 Ford Transit that recently failed its NCT/MOT and needed a bit of welding work. I've driven it about 100 miles since getting it back. Last night, I noticed a burning smell inside the van. After checking twice and not finding the source, my passenger accidentally dropped a water bottle, and when I picked it up, I realized the box under my seat was hot.
Thinking there was a short circuit, I disconnected the DC controller and waited for a bit. The van started up, and the housing seemed to have cooled down. However, once I got to a safe spot, I realized the battery was bubbling, crackling, and leaking. I removed the seat and took out the affected battery. My Transit has two batteries, but it ran fine this morning with just one.
Now, I have a few urgent questions:
- What could have caused this issue? Is it likely related to the welding work?
- Could the parallel battery also be damaged? I checked it during and after the drive this morning, and it seems fine.
- The DC to DC controller appears to be in good shape. I suspect it would have failed before causing damage to the house batteries (which are flooded), as they're wired to the common negative on the controller and not the chassis. Does this make sense?