Truma trauma - heating off

[G-RMPS]

The heating went off overnight in our Hymer B698. No red, or yellow, or green lights on the controller so no power to it. There’s gas (though it was on 240v setting). The mains power switch has been recycled, but hadn’t tripped. Other 240v services work.

I’ve checked all the fuses in the “blue box thing” (I forget its name), but that’s just the 12v stuff, isn’t it?

With some difficulty I found the Truma heater/boiler - how did it take me two years to locate such a big item? There’s a wee 10A fuse inside an access cover. That doesn’t appear to be blown.

I’ve run out of ideas. Any further ideas on offer? Looks like we’re staying at home at New Year :-(

 

[G-RMPS]

I found an installation manual. I see there’s also a 20A fuse. I’ll check that.

 

[two]

Does it work on EHU?
What kind of gas are you using?

 

[Fontie]

Does it work on EHU?
What kind of gas are you using?

There’s gas (though it was on 240v setting). The mains power switch has been recycled, but hadn’t tripped. Other 240v services work.

Sounds like it was working on 240v and now doesn't work on either 240 or gas

 

[Gellyneck]

Don't just rely of the fuses looking OK. I'd either test them with a meter or replace.

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[two]

If it doesn't work on mains or gas, it's a 12V problem.
Does the internal light come on (if there is one), when you open the door?

EDIT
sorry - in my haste, I thought we were talking about a fridge.
ignore that.

Is there any sign of life from the control panel?

 

[Speve]

Have you checked the flash code on the pcb on the boiler that will give you an idea as to what is wrong

 

[MikeD]

I don't know what model Truma you have but on our 4E the fuse u can see at the top is the 12v one.

There is another at the bottom of the electronic area that is a 10amp 240v slow burn. It blows fairly regularly on our Truma heater.

Originally it took me about 8 hours to dismantle everything to get at it. I blown a few times and I can change it in 90 minutes now.

View media item 22104View media item 22101

 

[G-RMPS]

Thanks for above. 12v and 240v work in the van, but the heater control panel is dead. Agree that will be 12v. I tested the small 10A fuse in situ with a multimeter. The larger fuse (supposedly a 20A slow-blow) doesn’t look like a glass fuse. More like copper wire wound around a former. I tested the 12v input connector cable (to a spade fitting) on the heater control board. Didn’t seem to be any voltage there, but I don’t know if I should expect to see something.

Cheers...Keith

 

[rosalan]

Don't you have another fuse on your Electrobloc?

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[G-RMPS]

All of the fuses on the EBL look intact, though I haven’t yet put a meter on them. I’m assuming 20A here too. I also checked the pin on the EBL connector and it doesn’t look insecure, or burned.

 

[G-RMPS]

I don't know what model Truma you have but on our 4E the fuse u can see at the top is the 12v one.

There is another at the bottom of the electronic area that is a 10amp 240v slow burn. It blows fairly regularly on our Truma heater.

Originally it took me about 8 hours to dismantle everything to get at it. I blown a few times and I can change it in 90 minutes now.

View media item 22104View media item 22101

We have a 6E. I have only removed the top access cover but the exposed section looks just like your picture. I see I will have to remove the whole cover to access the fuse at the bottom. Is the red button on the left a reset button? That might be something to try if it is indeed a button.

 

[MikeD]

The button is the overheating protection reset

Page 21 of the Operating instructions

Overheating protection 230 V (Combi E)

230 V heating mode has a mechanical overheating protec- tion switch. If the 12 V power supply is interrupted, for example during operation or during the after-run period, the temperatures within the appliance could activate the over- heating protection.

Power consumption at 12 V

Heater + boiler
Combi 2 E UK /
Combi 4 (E) / 4 E UK: 1.2 – 6.5 A
Combi 6 (E) / 6 E UK: 1.4 – 6.5 A
Boiler heating maximum 0.5 A
Quiescent current approx. 0.001 A
Heating element – FrostControl (optional): maximum 0.4 APower consumption at 230 V
Combi 2 E UK / Combi 4 E (UK) / Combi 6 E (UK)
3.9 A (900 W) or 7.8 A (1800 W)
Protection class
IP 21



Resetting the overheating protection: Allow the heater to cool, remove the connection cover and press the reset button

 

[pappajohn]

The larger fuse (supposedly a 20A slow-blow) doesn’t look like a glass fuse.

Fuses should be marked on the circuit board with the voltage and amperage (like the incoming 10a one) and will be removable.
What you mention isn't a fuse.

 

[MikeD]

Are you sure about the 20amp fuse as I did not think the Truma went over 10 amps on 240v.

I doubt many sites go over a 13amp supply. I suspect your van will be max 10amp supply on 240v.

The higher output of the boiler needs the gas supply to achieve this.

Also I think the 12v to the panel is supplied from the Truma boiler.

Again I am no expert on Truma.

You really need a response from Dave Newell or Truma.

Alas I suspect both are on holiday at the moment.

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[jockaneezer]

The fuse is to the right of the "copper wire wound round a former"object. It's the brown/black/orange/blue striped item you should be checking.

 

[G-RMPS]

That’s the one I checked!

 

[Diggerdi]

We've got the same problem but we can't get to the "flap" on the top/side of the boiler due to the boiler being fitted hard against the wall. Not too bothered at the moment as it works on gas and we're not going anywhere in the next few weeks. Fortunately, I have discovered we have a Truma registered engineer within 5 miles of home who I have spoken to and he will have a look at it 2nd week January. Ours is the 6E with the CP Plus controller. The fault was a W 45 H which is one or other of the fuses, or needs resetting after overheating, none of which we can access

 

[G-RMPS]

I couldn’t figure out how to completely remove the power electrical cover to inspect the lower 10A fuse. I did eventually manage to remove and inspect this fuse, which appears to be OK. Putting it back “blind” was not easy.

Pressing the reset button did nothing.

I will replace the top fuse even though it looks OK as it appears to control the 12v circuits (I assume the fan and the controller). If that doesn’t work I guess I’ll have to take it to someone who knows what they are doing!

 

[Gellyneck]

If that doesn’t work I guess I’ll have to take it to someone who knows what they are doing!

You maybe know of them but just in case you don't Dougie at Gem Caravan Care in Crossford is Truma registered. Might be worth a call to see if he could give you some other pointers. Having said that he might need to get "eyes on".

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[G-RMPS]

Thanks for that. I wasn’t aware. I’ll give them a try if/when I have to give up!

HNY when it arrives...

 

[Gellyneck]

Have a good one yourself.

 

[tonyidle]

"copper wire wound round a former"

choke

 

[G-RMPS]

In my defence I was referring to a diagram ;-)

 

[Drum Major]

Hope you manage to sort things out happy new year when it comes

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[G-RMPS]

For the avoidance of confusion, according to the manual the two fuses in the Truma unit are F10A, not slow-blow.

The relevant fuse in the EBL 29 is 20A. I see it was a 10A fuse in the EBL 99.

 

[G-RMPS]

Hope you manage to sort things out happy new year when it comes

Thanks, same to you!

 

[gerry mcg]

Our Truma CP control panel is powered by a 12v supply which is fused on the EBL119. If there is no display showing on the truma CP it sounds like a blown fuse on the EBL to me. This is our EBL fuse layout. The Truma CP has a 10A fuse
View attachment 196277

 

[G-RMPS]

That end fuse, 20A in my case, covers the heater and the electric step. The step works, so it’s not the fuse ( well not that fuse anyway).

Thanks anyway!

 

[jezport]

All of the fuses on the EBL look intact, though I haven’t yet put a meter on them. I’m assuming 20A here too. I also checked the pin on the EBL connector and it doesn’t look insecure, or burned.

Looking ok can be misleading. I had one that looked perfect but had blown

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