Truma Combi 4 Help Please

[Jezter]

Suspect I'm one of many genuinely rooting for you on this saga, David! Some crap luck.
Hope you get it resolved soon.

 

[davidathomas42]

So I went out to check the code again

It seems the first code on start up is nothing or not assigned.

It then put up this code
sslsllls
sslsllls
sslsllls

I watched it cycle through 3 times and wrote it blind watching the video back so im pretty certain that is correct.

Looking at possible faults I am ruling out the control panel and data wire as they are all brand new today and nothing really seemed wrong with the other ones.

That leaves me with combustion air motor. The output was very weak when I picked it up. I remember mentioning to the dealer about this and he said it was because it was running on 240v at the time I tested it not gas. I remember my 2015 vans truma been really fast output but as it was older I didn't over question it. I am now thinking was it on its last legs.

Then it's the PCB board for paint spray? Not sure about that.

 

[Pausim]

unfortunately mine been older doesn't have the reset button on it.... Or if it does I certainly cant find it

Perhaps on your model it is further down the board. Have you tried removing the lower part of the casing?

 

[davidathomas42]

Perhaps on your model it is further down the board. Have you tried removing the lower part of the casing?

Tomorrow I plan to remove he bed frame to get better access and pull all the panels off and (1 look for it) and then clean and dust it as I notice they get covered in dust and have a general poke about to see if anything is stuck or jammed.

Randomly there is small lumps of coal kicking around it?

 

[jockaneezer]

It wouldn't need the "combustion air fan" to run if electric heating only was selected, but if you're saying the output from the vents wasn't that "strong" it could be the circulation fan that's playing up ? ISTR people having problems with these as the oilite bearings on them can dry out, slowing the fan/increasing the current they need ?

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[davidathomas42]

It wouldn't need the "combustion air fan" to run if electric heating only was selected, but if you're saying the output from the vents wasn't that "strong" it could be the circulation fan that's playing up ? ISTR people having problems with these as the oilite bearings on them can dry out, slowing the fan/increasing the current they need ?

Thats interesting.... I am going to pull the new leisure battery tomorrow and refit the one I removed to see if that makes any difference

 

[GeoffnDee]

One of the possible faults listed is- Battery earth to minus terminal combi defective - you could try an extra connection from the battery to the Combi minus to eliminate it as the cause of the problem (a meter could show the correct voltage even with a poor connection/wiring being the problem) The blink codes would need very little power to operate.

 

[Landy Andy]

Thats interesting.... I am going to pull the new leisure battery tomorrow and refit the one I removed to see if that makes any difference

If you suspect voltage then start van engine, plug in EHU, or connect new and old batteries via jump leads. But from the bits I’ve read above, I doubt it is a battery voltage problem. Possibly voltage to unit, but not at battery.

 

[davidathomas42]

One of the possible faults listed is- Battery earth to minus terminal combi defective - you could try an extra connection from the battery to the Combi minus to eliminate it as the cause of the problem (a meter could show the correct voltage even with a poor connection/wiring being the problem) The blink codes would need very little power to operate.

Would putting a 12v battery straight to the truma be ok or does it have to go through the motorhome system first to regulate the amperage? I wouldn't think so but dont want to fry anything. I have a spare battery charged in the garage.

 

[GeoffnDee]

The motorhome system supplies a fused battery supply to the combi so you would be by- passing the vans minus wiring , run a temporary extra wire from the existing leisure battery minus to the combi minus to by pass any possible minus wiring faults between the combi and the battery via the Motorhome system.

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[Gellyneck]

It wouldn't need the "combustion air fan" to run if electric heating only was selected, but if you're saying the output from the vents wasn't that "strong" it could be the circulation fan that's playing up ? ISTR people having problems with these as the oilite bearings on them can dry out, slowing the fan/increasing the current they need ?

Thats interesting.... I am going to pull the new leisure battery tomorrow and refit the one I removed to see if that makes any difference

We had a previous problem with our 4e that gave a "flashing light code" (sorry, can't remember what it was) but it turned out to be the circulation fan as jockaneezer mentions.
Local Truma service agent said to remove the grill cover for the fan, gently tap \ rotate the centre spindle \ fan and brush out any muck.
As it turned out the grill wasn't fitted (it was lying on the floor next to it's location) and when using a 1/2" paint brush there was a huge amount of dust \ muck \ etc came out.
Once cleaned up, started the boiler from the control panel and lo and behold oft it jolly well went!
I asked the service guy if we should oil the fan and he said "no leave well alone at it would just attract \ hold more muck and jam up the fan again".
He did also say it is worthwhile giving it a wee dust out every year or so. Guess what I did last week.
Might not be your issue but could be worth a go as it only takes a few minutes to do.
This is the grill cover you want to remove.
It's on the left-hand side, as you look at the pcb's, down below the black tubing in your photo.
It's a push fit and just pulls straight off.

 

[davidathomas42]

We had a previous problem with our 4e that gave a "flashing light code" (sorry, can't remember what it was) but it turned out to be the circulation fan as jockaneezer mentions.
Local Truma service agent said to remove the grill cover for the fan, gently tap \ rotate the centre spindle \ fan and brush out any muck.
As it turned out the grill wasn't fitted (it was lying on the floor next to it's location) and when using a 1/2" paint brush there was a huge amount of dust \ muck \ etc came out.
Once cleaned up, started the boiler from the control panel and lo and behold oft it jolly well went!
I asked the service guy if we should oil the fan and he said "no leave well alone at it would just attract \ hold more muck and jam up the fan again".
He did also say it is worthwhile giving it a wee dust out every year or so. Guess what I did last week.
Might not be your issue but could be worth a go as it only takes a few minutes to do.
This is the grill cover you want to remove.
It's on the left-hand side, as you look at the pcb's, down below the black tubing in your photo.
It's a push fit and just pulls straight off.

View attachment 572744

This is the hassle of that. I can’t get to anything with the bed frame in the way and the screws to remove it are blocked by stuff fitted afterwards.

I could remove some slats but that will break the retainers so have to buy new ones. Not a big deal but I’d prefer not to have to break stuff

Trying to get access though to clean it all

 

[Gellyneck]

This is the hassle of that. I can’t get to anything with the bed frame in the way and the screws to remove it are blocked by stuff fitted afterwards.

I could remove some slats but that will brake the retainers so have to buy new ones. Not a big deal but I’d prefer not to have to break stuff

Trying to get access though to clean it all

From your photo you should be able to get your hand down the side of the boiler (the right-hand side of the photo) and get a pull on the grill.
It looks like you've already removed the combustion air motor \ fan grill \ cover?
The circulation one is below that and to the top of your photo.

 

[davidathomas42]

Managed to get the cover off to the fan. Its dusty as suspected but not insanely. I gave it a good few spins by hand then switched the unit on. Still getting same error code. s s l s - l l l s which is code 46 still.

I have put back the original switch's and wire on the wall now so its not getting silly with stuff all over. I have pulled the power wires from it and going to leave it until 4pm now to totally drain any residual power.

I cant see a reset button anywhere on the unit like the later ones that have it next to the led light. I cant find anything on youtube either for one. Does anyone know if there is a hidden one anywhere?

Past that I am again at my limit

Oh I did try a fully charged leisure battery direct to the terminals too for power and got the same error code so that rules out the negative earth part of the checklist.

 

[Gellyneck]

Managed to get the cover off to the fan. Its dusty as suspected but not insanely. I gave it a good few spins by hand then switched the unit on. Still getting same error code. s s l s - l l l s which is code 46 still.

I have put back the original switch's and wire on the wall now so its not getting silly with stuff all over. I have pulled the power wires from it and going to leave it until 4pm now to totally drain any residual power.

I cant see a reset button anywhere on the unit like the later ones that have it next to the led light. I cant find anything on youtube either for one. Does anyone know if there is a hidden one anywhere?

Past that I am again at my limit

Oh I did try a fully charged leisure battery direct to the terminals too for power and got the same error code so that rules out the negative earth part of the checklist.

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[Markco]

I've just stripped and rebuilt one for a friend to renew the heater elements the reset button if I remember correctly is if looking at heater from the circuit boards it's on top left u won't see it while heater is in position buts in the little square hole nightmare to find and both circuit boards have there own inline fuse on them if that helps

 

[dunnah01]

Managed to get the cover off to the fan. Its dusty as suspected but not insanely. I gave it a good few spins by hand then switched the unit on. Still getting same error code. s s l s - l l l s which is code 46 still.

I have put back the original switch's and wire on the wall now so its not getting silly with stuff all over. I have pulled the power wires from it and going to leave it until 4pm now to totally drain any residual power.

I cant see a reset button anywhere on the unit like the later ones that have it next to the led light. I cant find anything on youtube either for one. Does anyone know if there is a hidden one anywhere?

Past that I am again at my limit

Oh I did try a fully charged leisure battery direct to the terminals too for power and got the same error code so that rules out the negative earth part of the checklist.

View attachment 572759

You've got plenty of room to remove the PCB covers to look for the reset pin and also check the 240v fuse.

 

[davidathomas42]

You've got plenty of room to remove the PCB covers to look for the reset pin and also check the 240v fuse.

All covers are off now. Where’s this reset pin then?

 

[Markco]

Try this to find it

 

[dunnah01]

There's hopefully a button as post #46 photo

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[davidathomas42]

Try this to find it

I have the red switch he’s pressing with a match but I don’t have the other one next to the flashing light.

I have pressed it for over a minute and multiple times to no success

 

[davidathomas42]

This is my board

 

[dunnah01]

The reset button looks to be above your thumb in the middle of the group of 4 screw contacts on the LH board in photo 2

 

[Markco]

What serial number do u have

 

[GeoffnDee]

The reset button on the left is only for 240v operation (if it overheats), the one that you do not have , by the flashing light ,I think you will find, is fitted on the later (Black body) Combi 4E heater with power boards that can be used with the later Truma CP Plus digital display which uses the button to link the power board with the Digital display .

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[davidathomas42]

What serial number do u have

 

[Pausim]

I doubt that the 230V overheat button will help and without a reset button I would be inclined to disconnect everything from the pcb and hope that it will will reset itself overnight. There may be capacitors that need to discharge before it will forget itself and boot up refreshed. I might even be tempted to short out the + and - 12V terminals * but perhaps before doing so wait to see if anyone on here says NO bad idea.

* Edit, after everything is disconnected.

 

[Ingwe]

Not sure if this page from the Truma site helps. May have been covered earlier.

Truma Combi Boiler Fault Codes - Caravan Motorhome

A list of Truma Combi Boiler fault codes, what they mean and how to rectify the them. For Truma Combis 4E and 6E with the CP panel installed.

www.caravanmotorhome.org

 

[davidathomas42]

I doubt that the 230V overheat button will help and without a reset button I would be inclined to disconnect everything from the pcb and hope that it will will reset itself overnight. There may be capacitors that need to discharge before it will forget itself and boot up refreshed. I might even be tempted to short out the + and - 12V terminals * but perhaps before doing so wait to see if anyone on here says NO bad idea.

* Edit, after everything is disconnected.

I pulled all the power today and left it for 7 hours before powering up.

 

[Clive Beeza]

I pulled all the power today and left it for 7 hours before powering up.

Something that worked for me when the system would not reset
leave the system powered 12 volt only, (red light flashing)
and remove the small glass fuse shown in the previous pictures,
this worked for me several times over a long time,
until I made appt with Truma to call in, and investigate what the problem was,
It was the Truma boiler PCB at fault, fixed in 15 minutes
You have nothing to lose, takes only minutes to pull and refit the fuse
good luck.

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