Truma Combi 4 Help Please

Gellyneck said:
On the power shutdown I had tried it off for a couple of minutes with no success however after being off for a hour or so it had reset. Might be worth a try?
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I wonder if to do that I just pull the power to the unit rather than shut the van down again. That way there is no residual voltage in any wiring efc. It’s only 2 little spade connectors so easy to do
 
It would be better to try using the black power shut down button on the Power supply unit (if it is a Sargent unit) , as when you reconnect using this method it resets the PSU and this may also in turn reset the Truma system. (if that is what is needed)
If that does not work it would Also be worth checking the continuity at all of the wires that connect the boiler to the control switches.
 
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GeoffnDee said:
It would be better to try using the black power shut down button on the Power supply unit (if it is a Sargent unit) , as when you reconnect using this method it resets the PSU and this may also reset the Truma system. (if that is what is needed)
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Not the best photo as this was from last night so doesn’t show models etc. but this is the power closet

AA2E2FD4-DBEB-4BA4-A43F-F48F39C7D5E3.jpeg
 
I would certainly take out that fuse and check for continuity. As you rightly say, it might have blown under the cap. I had this happen on one of the boat engine fuses last year.
 
davidathomas42 said:
I wonder if to do that I just pull the power to the unit rather than shut the van down again. That way there is no residual voltage in any wiring efc. It’s only 2 little spade connectors so easy to do
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Don't know. As GeoffnDee said I just used the shutdown button on the Sargent EC500 power distribution panel.

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I’ve just pulled the EHU. Leisure battery fuse. And power and all plugs from the Truma. What I’ve found is the cab battery still powers the Hab and there is voltage in the Truma power wires still (unplugged though) so it’s not yet been fully powered down yet.

I’m hesitant to pull the cab battery too as the Truma is now 100% disconnected from anything else in the van. I’ll leave it that way for a couple of hours then try again.

I’ve tested the mini fuse and that works fine. I’ll put it back in when I re power.

Fingers crossed as this is about the end of anything I can try
 
Well. 2 hours fully powered down.

And no. Nothing. As far as I can tell it’s just dead!

All I can do now is wait for Truma in Derby to reopen on the 4th of Jan and ask to pop in for them to take a peek. I’m sure it will take them 10seconds to tell me what’s wrong with it.

My New Years trip will have to be on sites or pins with EHU so I can run my plug in fan heater.

At least I’ll still be able to get away.

Final job is to see why the cab 12v sockets don’t work as can’t stand anything been unserviceable.
 
Bump
 
Please let us know what was wrong when you are fixed as it may help in the future if trying to help with a similar problem.

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davidathomas42 said:
My New Years trip will have to be on sites or pins with EHU so I can run my plug in fan heater.
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Not sure when you're away but weather is, allegedly, going to be unseasonably mild for the next week or so. Add a woolly jumper and :xThumb:
 
davidathomas42 said:
No. Switches appear 100% dead
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Have you tried swapping the phone type leads to see if there is still no signal to the combi E dial from the PCB, it would at least rule out the leads. Also have you tried the red reset button under the left panel cover next to the pcb?
 
dunnah01 said:
Have you tried swapping the phone type leads to see if there is still no signal to the combi E dial from the PCB, it would at least rule out the leads. Also have you tried the red reset button under the left panel cover next to the pcb?
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There is no red reset button on mine. Too old I guess. I don’t have a spare lead to swap out to test it but I get power at the switch end of it as I can see that on the multi meter

Tried to look on Amazon for a cable to test it but it’s 6 pin and there all 7 or 8 pin Ethernet ones on there.
 
The reset button that has been mentioned is under the plastic cover left of the photo you have taken there is a hole in the plastic cover that you can insert a wooden toothpick into for instance but before you get your hopes up I believe that is only related to 240v ac but it might be worth checking in case.
I think its a mechanical reset.

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davidathomas42 said:
There is no red reset button on mine. Too old I guess. I don’t have a spare lead to swap out to test it but I get power at the switch end of it as I can see that on the multi meter

Tried to look on Amazon for a cable to test it but it’s 6 pin and there all 7 or 8 pin Ethernet ones on there.
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Just to confirm you've found the reset button - it isn't red and its hard to find behind the PCB cover:

truma.png


I was also really just suggesting swapping your two existing black wires over to eliminate them as a possible issue ie use the short wire to connect the PCB to the Combi e switch and the longer led to connect the two switches together. If you get some lights on the switches it could point to the longer lead being faulty
 
Still no where with this. 4 nights over new year. 2 with a 240v fan heater and 2 with no heating at all off grid other than the gas hobs while cooking..... Oh and no shower as cold water only.

I have today been to Truma after work to grab a new data lead that my dealer was still waiting on. I then called at my dealers and picked up the new switches just incase. Plugged it all in and nada. zero. zilch.

The dealer said next step would be to try replacing the board. But he's off work tomorrow so that wont be ordered until Friday at least now and got knows how long that will take and will that even work 🤷‍♂️ i'm doubtful. But it has to be something wrong.

Im getting really fed up with this now. Not worked since late November only 4 weeks after getting the motorhome and I wanted to be away in it for all my days off over winter.

It's a warranty item but i'm getting to the point of just saying sod it and buying a brand new unit and installing it myself.

Truma cant book me in for diagnosis until Feb they are saying. Dealer will probably take at least that long. Meanwhile i'm £30k + £7k in bits and mods into a van I cant get full enjoyment from.

Screenshot 2022-01-05 at 16.50.47.png
Screenshot 2022-01-05 at 16.50.54.png
Screenshot 2022-01-05 at 16.51.00.png


Other than the board been dusty (guess from the fan) I cant see anything visually wrong with it. Is this the one that would be replaced? or the one that everything plugs into? Or another one????


Screenshot 2022-01-05 at 16.51.18.png
 
I'd suggest taking the main PCB out and hot footing it to https://www.arelectronics.co.uk/ in Cannock. They have a test boiler and all the parts you've already bought and will be able to find the problem for you very quickly.
 
Update.


Seems while it was dark I noticed a red LED giving off a code.

Now to look it up.

If anyone can help its a 4E

 
Ive managed to decode it. s s l s l l s s

The Truma trouble shoot guide says voltage either too low so replace 12v battery. Its a new leisure battery and showing 12.8 volts. lower limit for the unit is 10.5 so should rule that out.

2nd action says replace electronics. Guess that means PCB

Anyone any other thoughts first?

Item 44.

Screenshot 2022-01-05 at 19.10.19.png
 
If you are having to buy a new board I have one which the engineers removed trying to trace a fault on our combi 4E. It turned out to be a faulty controller! It has been returned to Truma fully checked and working 100% perfectly. They are £265 new, I want £185 for this one and can post it first class.

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Just been back out to the van and checked the code from a cold start

Its slsl lsls which I now get as item 90 unassigned recheck code :banghead:
 
Phileas Fogg said:
If you are having to buy a new board I have one which the engineers removed trying to trace a fault on our combi 4E. It turned out to be a faulty controller! It has been returned to Truma fully checked and working 100% perfectly. They are £265 new, I want £185 for this one and can post it first class.
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Thanks. I may take you up on that once I finish this insane diagnosis. Driving me mad.
 
Your red flashing light reminded me of this video. When my Combi needed resetting this sorted it out for me. The problem I had was I was holding the reset button either too long or not long enough but after dark I saw the red flashing light and managed the reset following this procedure. Your Combi may be different but there might be something in it that helps you.
 
Pausim said:
Your red flashing light reminded me of this video. When my Combi needed resetting this sorted it out for me. The problem I had was I was holding the reset button either too long or not long enough but after dark I saw the red flashing light and managed the reset following this procedure. Your Combi may be different but there might be something in it that helps you.
Click to expand...

unfortunately mine been older doesn't have the reset button on it.... Or if it does I certainly cant find it
 
davidathomas42 said:
Thanks. I may take you up on that once I finish this insane diagnosis. Driving me mad.
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No problem hope you don't need it the engineer said he will buy it but I would rather save a fellow funster a few quid.

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