Trailer Lock

Joined
May 22, 2020
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MH
Auto Trail Imala 620
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I have a side loading motorcycle trailer from Armitages. The trailer is fitted with a cast coupling known as Triple Lock, for which I have only one key. I decided for peace of mind I would get another spare key; a number can be found on the key. I contacted Armitages, no luck. I managed to determine that the item is known as manufactured by Bradley, no luck here either. On inspection, I found the coupling casting to have Indespension cast into the item, presumably Bradley supplies the item to them. I then contacted Indespension and quickly received a Telephone call to inform me that they were able to supply a spare key. Amazing I thought, then the caller informed me the price £36, plus postage. The caller probably heard my gasp for air, before asking him if he was joking. I then replied that I would then pass on this, thank you. I think I will instead just be careful with the key and in the worst case scenario, disable the lock. What an absolute rip-off !!!
 
Why not try a key cutters? Surely the key can't be that special?
 
Thinking outside the box, excellent 👍
Yeah I’ve seen them, but there doesn’t seem to be a way of removing the existing lock, searched everywhere and found nothing. I’m wondering if the lock is a “one time” fitment.

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Why not try a key cutters? Surely the key can't be that special?
The key is actually rather special, a cylindrical type with segments cut, not one that the usual cutters can replicate.
 
If it's like this the barrel should just pull out.
Screenshot_2022-11-27-21-47-59-28_260528048de7f2f358f0056f785be619.jpg
 
I think there is a difference between this and the one fitted to my trailer. I have been advised by someone that knows someone (uncorroborated of course) that it can only be removed by destructive techniques which then prevents another lock being fitted. I don't want to start forcing anything which could then render the lock broken if there is an alternative. I'm still trying to find out a definitive answer, there must be someone out there that knows one way or another. This (photo) is the same as mine.
triple.jpg
 
Try a decent locksmiths, not just a key cutter. I've had a tubular key like you show above copied - though even then the locksmith did have to send it away to a specialist firm.
 
Try a decent locksmiths, not just a key cutter. I've had a tubular key like you show above copied - though even then the locksmith did have to send it away to a specialist firm.
That is probably the route that Indespension take, sending the request to another company to cut a single key, hence the stupid cost. This is the reason I was looking to replace the barrel/key which seem to be available for around £10, the question is though, if and how it can be done?

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That is probably the route that Indespension take, sending the request to another company to cut a single key, hence the stupid cost. This is the reason I was looking to replace the barrel/key which seem to be available for around £10, the question is though, if and how it can be done?
When I've hired trailers with that coupling in the past, the lock barrel has come out accidentally with the key when unlocking it! If that is a deliberate design - unlocking with the key also enables barrel removal - or a past-it's-best lock on a hire trailer is another matter. Worth a fiddle around to try though.
 
My Armitage trailer has that coupling and the key withdraws the barrel when it's unlocked. It's the only way that the handle can be lifted ie with the barrel out.
 
Thanks guys, I will investigate further. I've had the trailer locked/unlocked and the barrel has never moved, but I will re-visit and see if it does indeed move when unlocked and come out.
 
It looks like that lock is held in place by a snap ring (like a circlip, but without the holes in it that accept your circlip pliers for fitting/removing) if you can see the "silver crescent" around the top half of the lock ?
You would probably need to wreck the snap ring to get the lock out and I dont know where you would get a replacement, but you could just replace it with a modified internal circlip ?
 
Well this is the situation. Key is inserted, rotated through 90 degrees anti-clockwise and pulled out against spring pressure. The key is held in the lock in this position and used to pull the brass plunger outwards. The plunger must be held in this position while the coupling handle is raised to release the trailer from the ball, two hands job, one holding plunger out, one lifting coupling handle. Once released, the brass plunger returns to its rest position under spring pressure, the key rotated 90 degrees clock-wise where it can now be removed. The lock barrel can not be pulled out or removed, nor does there seem to be an obvious way to do so. See photo's.
tl1.jpg
tl2.jpg
tl3.jpg

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You could well be right , I will try to get a closer look with a magnifier. It would make sense as it would give the casual thief a hell of a job to remove it, at the same time it will give me the same problem, though I have the time to do so. I will first need to find out if I can buy a replacement barrel and keys before potentially doing some damage in the process. The ones readily on sale for around £10 are obviously not the same as mine. Its not the end of the world, its just that currently if I were to damage or lose the one key I'm screwed, particularly if the trailer is attached at the time.
 
Looking at this one

there seems to be a pin to hold lock in position, see bottom picture, either a roll pin or a taper pin.

Possibly the handle needs dis assembling.

Looking online you might find a video of how to remove the cylinder.
 
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Looking at this one

there seems to be a pin to hold lock in position
Yeah, this is what I originally believed to be the solution, but it appears the lock I have is not the same. As others have mentioned, this one appears to come out when unlocked.
 
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Compared to the crappy pressed steel hitches on most unbraked trailers, those cast ones with the integral lock are massively more secure - I wouldn't fancy trying to get that barrel out if the key got lost! Not without destroying the hitch in the process.

I've got a not dissimilar problem actually - the garage managed to lose my van keys when it was in for a repair :rolleyes: A genuine mistake by them , they were mortified and paid for another set of keys, luckily I had a full set of spares. But...

  • Fiat key was easy enough - luckily I've a specialist locksmith not far away, he cut a new key then coded it with his gizmo
  • Habitation key was super easy & cheap, ordered online on the key code
  • New Sigma alarm fob ordered online and coded at home
  • Clutchclaw pedal lock was a bit of a pain - the manufacturer just didn't reply (I've had this with NK group before - good products, awful customer service) - in the end I found who made the lock barrel that they use and they sold me a key from the code
  • The safe is a pain - no one does the blanks, the manufacturer will do a spare key to code but only if I get a form proving ID signed by a solicitor! A bit OTT for a cheap £50 domestic safe. I've resigned myself that if ever they key got lost it wouldn't be that hard to get into it with some tools, it's only a pressed steel box, even if it would wreck it. We only really use it for the passports when we're away.

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Compared to the crappy pressed steel hitches on most unbraked trailers, those cast ones with the integral lock are massively more secure - I wouldn't fancy trying to get that barrel out if the key got lost! Not without destroying the hitch in the process.

I've got a not dissimilar problem actually - the garage managed to lose my van keys when it was in for a repair :rolleyes: A genuine mistake by them , they were mortified and paid for another set of keys, luckily I had a full set of spares. But...

  • Fiat key was easy enough - luckily I've a specialist locksmith not far away, he cut a new key then coded it with his gizmo
  • Habitation key was super easy & cheap, ordered online on the key code
  • New Sigma alarm fob ordered online and coded at home
  • Clutchclaw pedal lock was a bit of a pain - the manufacturer just didn't reply (I've had this with NK group before - good products, awful customer service) - in the end I found who made the lock barrel that they use and they sold me a key from the code
  • The safe is a pain - no one does the blanks, the manufacturer will do a spare key to code but only if I get a form proving ID signed by a solicitor! A bit OTT for a cheap £50 domestic safe. I've resigned myself that if ever they key got lost it wouldn't be that hard to get into it with some tools, it's only a pressed steel box, even if it would wreck it. We only really use it for the passports when we're away.
On the plus side, at least the garage were to blame and picked up the bill to replace the keys, still a lot of aggro though. Some would say to me, just pay the £36+ and buy the spare key from Indespension, but I think I must have some Yorkshire blood. Also, being an Engineer I hate to accept defeat sorting a problem.
 
I don't get this, you have obviously spent time researching where you can get a spare key from and have found that a compatible key can be obtained for £36+postage, but this is a "rip-off" so you won't pay.

However you appear prepared to buy a replacement barrel for £10.87 (free postage) which may or may not work on your type of trailer and in order to use it you have to destroy your lock/barrel and potentially make the trailer unusable in the process, all just to save £25ish and Engineering pride!!!

To me it's a no brainer, buy the key that you know works and have the peace of mind of having a functioning lock and trailer plus a spare key

p.s I am a Tyke but would still spend the money for the replacement key
 
I don't get this, you have obviously spent time researching where you can get a spare key from and have found that a compatible key can be obtained for £36+postage, but this is a "rip-off" so you won't pay.

However you appear prepared to buy a replacement barrel for £10.87 (free postage) which may or may not work on your type of trailer and in order to use it you have to destroy your lock/barrel and potentially make the trailer unusable in the process, all just to save £25ish and Engineering pride!!!

To me it's a no brainer, buy the key that you know works and have the peace of mind of having a functioning lock and trailer plus a spare key

p.s I am a Tyke but would still spend the money for the replacement key
I'm not considering buying the replacement barrel for £10.87 as I know it's not the correct part, otherwise I would have done so already. Neither am I prepared to do anything which will damage my trailer. These points I have made quite clear in my posts. I am however prepared to buy the correct barrel together with 4 keys if I can locate the supplier. As mentioned, I am investigating the method used to secure the barrel in place as to avoid causing any damage, jockaneezer has already mentioned a snap ring. I will not be doing anything until I have all the information I need to complete the task, that is the lock, its availability and its method of attachment. Only then will I complete the job. Ask any Engineer and they will agree, the satisfaction of achieving a task which others have suggested difficult to impossible. If you know, you know.
 
I have the same lock on my hitch & only one key so would be interested in how you get on. Did you find a solution yet?
 
I have the same lock
Take the key to a good locksmith, they can cut roll secure, had loads done while you wait

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