Tour of Northern Spain

[Old Barrian]

I've had a quick search but cannot find anything relevant so I'm raising this as a new query.

I'm looking at making a trip across Northern Spain from Santander/Bilbao to Santiago de Compostela possibly incorporating a couple of day's travel on the narrow gauge railways in that part of the world. It doesn't seem to a popular tourist area so there seems to be little information on the internet. So, does anyone have suggestions for particular places to visit and/or campsites which might be relevant?

Thanks in advance for any assistance you can offer.

 

[David and Sally]

The Picos are stunning but some roads might be tight for a Moho.
Coastal towns along the top there are beautiful.

Enjoy

 

[Lenny HB]

Have a look at some of my threads on Spain & Portugal, links in my signature.

 

[Two on Tour]

We mainly wild camped when we were last over in Northern Spain, but we did spend a few days at Camping La Paz which has their own large sandy beach.

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@43.4010087,-4.6525695,441m/data=!3m1!1e3?hl=en-GB


There is a roman villa called La Olmeda near Saldana, that's well worth a visit if you are near that way. The floor mosaics are stunning.

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place...gBAZIBFWFyY2hhZW9sb2dpY2FsX211c2V1bQ?hl=en-GB

There are a couple of places we enjoyed watching vultures soaring if your into that sort of thing.

We were driving along through the Canyon del Lenza with a sheer drop on our left when we looked out of the passenger window to see a vulture gliding at the same level as us just 10 feet away.
We pulled over at this spot and spent a magical afternoon watching them soaring around the canyon and the rocks above us.

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@42.2975429,-2.4214999,231m/data=!3m1!1e3?hl=en&authuser=0


The other great place with magnificent views is at the top of the escarpment at De Pancorbo a Orduna where you can watch the vultures and other birds of prey flying with the paragliders in the evening sun. We overnighted in the carpark at the top of the escarpment. Loved driving the 180% hairpins up to the top of the escarpment.

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place...8m2!3d42.964463!4d-3.0230386?hl=en&authuser=0

 

[DBK]

We've been several times and there are delightful spots. The only drawback is the weather. It's called "Green Spain" for a reason - it can rain a lot and at any time of the year.

I described our most recent visit in this thread starting at post #209:

Two Go Back to Spain

It's working fine here John.(y)

www.motorhomefun.co.uk

I can recommend staying a night at the aire at Cabo Finistère, the mostly westerly point of Galicia. You can find a description of our visit there and to other places in the region in my book Two Go to Spain - which I wouldn't normally promote so obviously on here but you might find it useful.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[L' Hobo]

I stopped at a campsite at Zarautz a few years ago, bar, cafe etc on hillside and within walking distance of town.

 

[Two on Tour]

You might like to take the Fuente De cable car on the South side of the Picos.
I seem to remember someone saying a little while ago that you could still overnight in the carpark there.

Fuente Dé · 39588, Cantabria, Spain

39588, Cantabria, Spain

www.google.co.uk

 

[Lenny HB]

You might like to take the Fuente De cable car on the South side of the Picos.
I seem to remember someone saying a little while ago that you could still overnight in the carpark there.

Fuente Dé · 39588, Cantabria, Spain

39588, Cantabria, Spain

www.google.co.uk

Right next to a campsite so probably get moved on, as wilding is illegal in National parks. We have stopped in car parks in the Picos but ones that are well out of the way.

 

[grasscutter]

Stunning area. Take your time if you can. Certainly the Picos and definitely Praia das Catedrais (Cathedral Beach).

 

[jongood]

The Picos are stunning but some roads might be tight for a Moho.
Coastal towns along the top there are beautiful.

Enjoy

We get our up and down the Picos, with no probs (check at the avatar) just watch out for overhangs. We prefer posada de valdeon to Fuete De

Old Barrian Northern Spain is gorgeous IF the weather is right. If the weather is not right then go south.

Lost of lovely places and lots of choices of places to stop, too many to list just get on S4Sor Camper contact and go with the reviews.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[jumartoo]

We escape our south east corner of Spain in the summer and head north. Normally to Asturias and Galicia where the weather is so much more comfortable than 40+° in Murcia.

We have had mixed weather "ooop north" even in July and August but we're happy to wait it out. The scenery is stunning and there are many official places to park overnight, some even with free leccy.

Just arm yourselves with the apps and go and explore. I don't think you'll be disappointed.

Galicia

And I have more, many more

 

[royandsharont]

Old Barrian Just spotted this post, we followed the Camino all the way from France, as much as you can in a van, and walked where we camped. I’ll dig out the details, it will take a bit of time, but I’ll post them on here for you. It was one of our most wonderful trips,

and we have done quite a few

 

[DBK]

Old Barrian Just spotted this post, we followed the Camino all the way from France, as much as you can in a van, and walked where we camped. I’ll dig out the details, it will take a bit of time, but I’ll post them on here for you. It was one of our most wonderful trips, View attachment 593992and we have done quite a few

The map show that the most westerly point of the Camino was at Cabo Fisterra where the pilgrims would burn their old clothes they had walked in before returning to the cathedral at Santiago d C with cleaner attire. The first photo in jumartoo's post above shows the aire there. It wasn't as busy when we were there but on the point of the Cape you can find little burning places where today's pilgrims burn a token item of clothing. Judging by the smell socks were a popular offering.

It is here you will find the "kilometre zero" marker.

 

[Emmit]

Three years ago I walked the Camino Frances from Pamplona to SdC.

I did a Blog on here and it can be read/seen on here as;

"I'd like your Support. 'Plodding' for Prostate Cancer UK"​

There are photos on there you may find of interest.

Regards

 

[royandsharont]

Old Barrian Over the years whilst travelling through France & Spain we have come across many Pilgrims, walking to Santiago de Compostela and we would chat with them when able to. It became a desire to see what it was all about, and we decided one day to make the journey there in the van to find out. Our first attempt, from Portugal, was thwarted by rain and abandoned for the better weather further south. But in August 2018 we decided to make another attempt to reach the famous city and see the Cathedral. Our van was almost 8.5m long and weighed 4 tonnes to give you some idea of how we were travelling. We were extremely fortunate to spend 3.5 weeks in Galicia without a drop of rain! Unheard of the locals said as we were leaving for home. This is our journey Old Barrian so I hope it helps.

On 29th August we set off from Hull to Zeebrugge and headed south crossing the Pyrenees as St Jean Pied de Port as we wanted to follow the French route of the Camino de Santiago.

We stopped at the Pilgrims registration office in Roncesvalles, the start of the Camino in Spain, and was able to park in a mid-sized car park behind the centre using one of the coach bays. From here it is 790K on foot to Santiago. It was worth the stop to visit the Pilgrims office and see what they were all doing and getting their ‘passports’. The area was also the scene of a big war in 778 when the famous Roldan died nearby. A bronze statue of him with his horse is just off the road entering the village from France and we managed to park the van on the road to visit it.

From here we travelled to Pamplona, where we camped at the ACSI site Campsite Camping Ezcaba GPS: N 42°51'26" W 1°37'25". It is about 9K outside the city but there is a cycle path into the city and a bus service a short walk away on an industrial estate. The campsite is fine with a restaurant. Pamplona is a wonderful city to visit and has lots of history, including much about the pilgrims route.

Our next stop was Logrono, again on the Camino and capitol of Rioja. We stayed at the local site on the edge of the River Ebro adjacent the park, Camping La Playa GPS: N 42°28'15" W 2°27'17". We could walk directly into the town through the park and the campsite was particularly good, if a bit tight for our van getting in and out of the pitches. Logrono was a real treat for the Tapas route and the Camino went straight through the centre of the town.

We then went off to Burgos, where we had stayed before, which is a wonderful city to visit and should not be missed. There is a campsite on the edge of the city with easy cycling along the side of the river and we locked our bikes up there to enter the city on foot. The cathedral is wonderful. Gran Camping Zarautz.

However we did not stop to visit this time and decided to camp on the actual Camino at Camping Camino de Santiago in Castrojeriz and spend some days walking along the Camion ourselves. The campsite is literally on the Camino in the large village and has a restaurant specialising in slow cooked lamb, very nice if a bit expensive we thought. It has all the facilities needed but in need of a refresh really. There is a Templar Castle high above the plain and some cave houses, all accessible by foot, and on the main Camino street through the town the church has been turned into a museum. This really enabled us to understand what the Camino was all about. Our favourite place though was the Casa del Silencio, a house on the Camino where you could enter and contemplate your thoughts. There were lots of plaques with sayings inscribed on them. I will not tell you what they said as it would spoil the experience but safe to say they are still etched on my memory. You will meet many Pilgrims here who stay overnight in the hostels or tents alongside you. It was so good for us we stayed about 5 nights I think and walked each day or rode our bikes.



Our next stop should have been Leon but for some reason we decided not to visit the city and stopped overnight at Camping El Bierzo GPS: N 42°33'32" W 6°44'45" in the village of Villamartin de la Abadia, just to the west of Ponferrada. A lovely open campsite with plenty of greenery and plenty of Stork’s nests visible atop the old church belfry. We had passed many Pilgrims this day walking at the side of the roads we were travelling on so we felt we were doing it too, as much as you could in a van

Our final days drive took us past 100’s of Pilgrims as we neared Santiago de Compostela and we arrived in the famous city on 11th September staying at Camping As Cancelas actually in the city and a short bus trip to the centre. We found a large Mercadona Supermarket on the way in with ample street parking in an industrial estate and the campsite was fine if a bit difficult to get onto the pitches once again. The campsite has a steep main road with terraces off.

Santiago de Compostela was everything, and more, that we expected. If you get there you must try to make the daily Pilgrims Mass. 11:00 AM I think, if only to experience the large incense ball being pulled across the nave? We arrived 35 minutes early and got the last 2 seats on the very back row so be early to ensure you get in. The square outside is full of Pilgrims who have just arrived and to see the excitement on their faces at having completed the journey is worth every penny. The selection of typical Galician food on offer is of unbelievably high quality for a tourist destination. We can recommend the rack of lamb at Casa Paredes close to the Cathedral square.

From here we wanted to spend some time relaxing and wanted to also see the journeys end on the Atlantic coast so headed of and spent 3.5 weeks at Camping Camping A' Vouga. Louro. GPS: N 42°45'39" W 9°3'44". The campsite is on the shore of this largish village where we watched a local type of Dolphin each day, cycled and walked and visited nearby Muros. We found the Pensioners meeting room/bar up in the village where we enjoyed many a glass of wine or beer with pinchos, after a day out cycling, and enjoyed the pleasant company of the locals, who thought we were a bit of an attraction.

Muros had some excellent food places to eat and a rather unusual sea water driven corn mill which is now a museum. Also in the hills above the campsite we found prehistoric stone carvings at Petroglifos Laxe das Rodas, again accessed on cycle and foot.

We caught the bus from outside the campsite to the ‘Journeys End’ by Cape Finisterre Lighthouse. That was not easy as so many Pilgrims caught that only bus from Santiago de Compostela each day and the first one to pass us was full! The visit was worth seeing the end and some of the abandoned or burnt items left by the Pilgrims but it was a lot of walking on a hot day. There is a very large car park by the end if you were able to take your own van.

We absolutely loved it here, hence our long stay, and didn’t want to leave but we had other things we wanted to see on our way home. So I think your request was mainly for info about the Camino de Santiago really but to finish off Ill simply list our stops on the way back.

First Lugo to see the Roman walls but we couldn’t get parked in our big van, another time for sure though. Camping Grandella at Valdepares in Asturias with its ancient fortified settlement from 100/200AD under excavation at El Ranco. Cangas de Onis, Asturias just to see the Roman bridge and old town before camping at Camping La Viorna in Potes to get access to the Picos del Europa. A Guided tour and walking the gorge was an unmissable experience that we had to wait 5 days to get re numbers for the personal guided tour. Camping Oyambre, Cantabria to visit Comillas via bus, One of Spain’s most beautiful towns and also Santillana del Mar a medieval town and ancient cave paintings at Altimira, again by bus. Finally Camping Orio at Orio to visit San Sebastian via train. Wonderful city and world leading Pintox. Home through France returning on 27th October. A really fantastic tour, one of our favourites. We hope you enjoy yours.

Far too many wonderful photos to add to here but if you want to see them to get the benefit of how wonderful this trip was then here is a link to my Instagram account starting with the first photo of this tour. Hope you can follow the rest from there.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BnEEyWDggPJ/?utm_medium=copy_link

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[jumartoo]

Old Barrian Over the years whilst travelling through France & Spain we have come across many Pilgrims, walking to Santiago de Compostela and we would chat with them when able to. It became a desire to see what it was all about, and we decided one day to make the journey there in the van to find out. Our first attempt, from Portugal, was thwarted by rain and abandoned for the better weather further south. But in August 2018 we decided to make another attempt to reach the famous city and see the Cathedral. Our van was almost 8.5m long and weighed 4 tonnes to give you some idea of how we were travelling. We were extremely fortunate to spend 3.5 weeks in Galicia without a drop of rain! Unheard of the locals said as we were leaving for home. This is our journey Old Barrian so I hope it helps.

On 29th August we set off from Hull to Zeebrugge and headed south crossing the Pyrenees as St Jean Pied de Port as we wanted to follow the French route of the Camino de Santiago.

We stopped at the Pilgrims registration office in Roncesvalles, the start of the Camino in Spain, and was able to park in a mid-sized car park behind the centre using one of the coach bays. From here it is 790K on foot to Santiago. It was worth the stop to visit the Pilgrims office and see what they were all doing and getting their ‘passports’. The area was also the scene of a big war in 778 when the famous Roldan died nearby. A bronze statue of him with his horse is just off the road entering the village from France and we managed to park the van on the road to visit it.

From here we travelled to Pamplona, where we camped at the ACSI site Campsite Camping Ezcaba GPS: N 42°51'26" W 1°37'25". It is about 9K outside the city but there is a cycle path into the city and a bus service a short walk away on an industrial estate. The campsite is fine with a restaurant. Pamplona is a wonderful city to visit and has lots of history, including much about the pilgrims route.

Our next stop was Logrono, again on the Camino and capitol of Rioja. We stayed at the local site on the edge of the River Ebro adjacent the park, Camping La Playa GPS: N 42°28'15" W 2°27'17". We could walk directly into the town through the park and the campsite was particularly good, if a bit tight for our van getting in and out of the pitches. Logrono was a real treat for the Tapas route and the Camino went straight through the centre of the town.

We then went off to Burgos, where we had stayed before, which is a wonderful city to visit and should not be missed. There is a campsite on the edge of the city with easy cycling along the side of the river and we locked our bikes up there to enter the city on foot. The cathedral is wonderful. Gran Camping Zarautz.

However we did not stop to visit this time and decided to camp on the actual Camino at Camping Camino de Santiago in Castrojeriz and spend some days walking along the Camion ourselves. The campsite is literally on the Camino in the large village and has a restaurant specialising in slow cooked lamb, very nice if a bit expensive we thought. It has all the facilities needed but in need of a refresh really. There is a Templar Castle high above the plain and some cave houses, all accessible by foot, and on the main Camino street through the town the church has been turned into a museum. This really enabled us to understand what the Camino was all about. Our favourite place though was the Casa del Silencio, a house on the Camino where you could enter and contemplate your thoughts. There were lots of plaques with sayings inscribed on them. I will not tell you what they said as it would spoil the experience but safe to say they are still etched on my memory. You will meet many Pilgrims here who stay overnight in the hostels or tents alongside you. It was so good for us we stayed about 5 nights I think and walked each day or rode our bikes.



Our next stop should have been Leon but for some reason we decided not to visit the city and stopped overnight at Camping El Bierzo GPS: N 42°33'32" W 6°44'45" in the village of Villamartin de la Abadia, just to the west of Ponferrada. A lovely open campsite with plenty of greenery and plenty of Stork’s nests visible atop the old church belfry. We had passed many Pilgrims this day walking at the side of the roads we were travelling on so we felt we were doing it too, as much as you could in a van

Our final days drive took us past 100’s of Pilgrims as we neared Santiago de Compostela and we arrived in the famous city on 11th September staying at Camping As Cancelas actually in the city and a short bus trip to the centre. We found a large Mercadona Supermarket on the way in with ample street parking in an industrial estate and the campsite was fine if a bit difficult to get onto the pitches once again. The campsite has a steep main road with terraces off.

Santiago de Compostela was everything, and more, that we expected. If you get there you must try to make the daily Pilgrims Mass. 11:00 AM I think, if only to experience the large incense ball being pulled across the nave? We arrived 35 minutes early and got the last 2 seats on the very back row so be early to ensure you get in. The square outside is full of Pilgrims who have just arrived and to see the excitement on their faces at having completed the journey is worth every penny. The selection of typical Galician food on offer is of unbelievably high quality for a tourist destination. We can recommend the rack of lamb at Casa Paredes close to the Cathedral square.

From here we wanted to spend some time relaxing and wanted to also see the journeys end on the Atlantic coast so headed of and spent 3.5 weeks at Camping Camping A' Vouga. Louro. GPS: N 42°45'39" W 9°3'44". The campsite is on the shore of this largish village where we watched a local type of Dolphin each day, cycled and walked and visited nearby Muros. We found the Pensioners meeting room/bar up in the village where we enjoyed many a glass of wine or beer with pinchos, after a day out cycling, and enjoyed the pleasant company of the locals, who thought we were a bit of an attraction.

Muros had some excellent food places to eat and a rather unusual sea water driven corn mill which is now a museum. Also in the hills above the campsite we found prehistoric stone carvings at Petroglifos Laxe das Rodas, again accessed on cycle and foot.

We caught the bus from outside the campsite to the ‘Journeys End’ by Cape Finisterre Lighthouse. That was not easy as so many Pilgrims caught that only bus from Santiago de Compostela each day and the first one to pass us was full! The visit was worth seeing the end and some of the abandoned or burnt items left by the Pilgrims but it was a lot of walking on a hot day. There is a very large car park by the end if you were able to take your own van.

We absolutely loved it here, hence our long stay, and didn’t want to leave but we had other things we wanted to see on our way home. So I think your request was mainly for info about the Camino de Santiago really but to finish off Ill simply list our stops on the way back.

First Lugo to see the Roman walls but we couldn’t get parked in our big van, another time for sure though. Camping Grandella at Valdepares in Asturias with its ancient fortified settlement from 100/200AD under excavation at El Ranco. Cangas de Onis, Asturias just to see the Roman bridge and old town before camping at Camping La Viorna in Potes to get access to the Picos del Europa. A Guided tour and walking the gorge was an unmissable experience that we had to wait 5 days to get re numbers for the personal guided tour. Camping Oyambre, Cantabria to visit Comillas via bus, One of Spain’s most beautiful towns and also Santillana del Mar a medieval town and ancient cave paintings at Altimira, again by bus. Finally Camping Orio at Orio to visit San Sebastian via train. Wonderful city and world leading Pintox. Home through France returning on 27th October. A really fantastic tour, one of our favourites. We hope you enjoy yours.

Far too many wonderful photos to add to here but if you want to see them to get the benefit of how wonderful this trip was then here is a link to my Instagram account starting with the first photo of this tour. Hope you can follow the rest from there.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BnEEyWDggPJ/?utm_medium=copy_link

It sounds like you had a brilliant trip. We cycled from Roncesvalles to Santiago and had very mixed weather!

As you enjoyed that route you might enjoy following the Via de la Plata. We cycled this route from Sevilla to Santiago in May and the flowers were wonderful.

 

[royandsharont]

It sounds like you had a brilliant trip. We cycled from Roncesvalles to Santiago and had very mixed weather!

As you enjoyed that route you might enjoy following the Via de la Plata. We cycled this route from Sevilla to Santiago in May and the flowers were wonderful.

Thanks jumartoo, I shall take a look at that. We absolutely loved that trip and were ever so lucky with the weather, it meant our friends who live near you missed our autum visit that year & with the pandemic we haven’t been back since Some are arriving here tomorrow

I was surprised to see so many cyclists doing it. We had one Australian pitch his tent next to us at Castrojeriz and in Santiago, where you finish at the office near the square, I captured a great photo of a Dutchman’s bike parked up outside displaying all his bits & bobs that I’m sure you will be aware of. It’s on the Instagram photos if you have access, around 11/9/18.

I’m sure we shall meet one day at El Berro over a glass of wine I just need the new van to come

PS. I’ve just bookmarked the route, we have stayed at some of the locations but not many so it would be good

 

[Old Barrian]

Wow - what a great response! Thanks to everyone for their suggestions - I'm spoiled for choice.

 

[DBK]

Wow - what a great response! Thanks to everyone for their suggestions - I'm spoiled for choice.

I missed the bit about the narrow gauge railway. I've been on it from Santander to the French border where we started cycling up to Roscoff along the west coast of France. It stops at every village so it isn't fast but then neither was our subsequent cycling!

There is a good aire at Liéganes which has services and is literally beside the FEVE station. It is a branch line running into Santander where you could get a train going west which I think might be more interesting than the easterly route we took.

The photo below show my brother and our two bikes waiting for the train at Bilbao - where we had to change stations coming from Santander.

 

[Orion]

I missed the bit about the narrow gauge railway. I've been on it from Santander to the French border where we started cycling up to Roscoff along the west coast of France. It stops at every village so it isn't fast but then neither was our subsequent cycling!

There is a good aire at Liéganes which has services and is literally beside the FEVE station. It is a branch line running into Santander where you could get a train going west which I think might be more interesting than the easterly route we took.

The photo below show my brother and our two bikes waiting for the train at Bilbao - where we had to change stations coming from Santander.

View attachment 594665

We did almost exactly the same journey when cycling La Velodyssee but stopped overnight in Bilbao to enjoy the nightlife - the subsidised Basque region local trains are incredibly cheap and very bike friendly. IIRC that train is known locally as ‘The Mole’ because of the amount of tunnels it bores through travelling across the valleys running down to the sea on the route.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}