Testing fuse continuity on Alde board

Mikey RV

Mikey RV

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I have a multi meter and need to test the continuity of a fuse on my Alde pc board. Which setting do I need to put my multi meter on please before putting the probes on each end of fuse. Urgent it’s cold. 👍
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Yes, two on tour is correct but so is Brianmor.
Both settings will work.
6 O'clock position will give a reading in ohms.
Low reading shows OK.
The other position will give an audible "beep" if fuse is OK.

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Take no notice of Denise Joe and listen to happy jack. Have you taken the fuse out to test it as you may get some strange readings if not.
 
Thanks for the advice everybody. I will admit to being absolutely brain dead on electrics which is why I needed help. I have a multimeter but don’t know the first thing about it which is why I asked the question. Alde said that the fuse in the motherboard was a possible cause. The other two fuses were ok, I managed to check them. To get to check that fuse is a bit tight but I managed it. Nothing showed up on the multimeter. It never even lite up when I switched it to the setting. So I will be heading down to Devon on Wednesday and hopefully get someone to look at it down there. Fingers crossed. 🤞
 
Mikey RV said:
Nothing showed up on the multimeter.
Click to expand...
Then it never made a connection.
The screen will either show ohms, a resistance, or it will bleep.
If it did nothing either the fuse is blown or you didn't make contact with both ends

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Happy Jack said:
Yes, two on tour is correct but so is Brianmor.
Both settings will work.
6 O'clock position will give a reading in ohms.
Low reading shows OK.
The other position will give an audible "beep" if fuse is OK.
Click to expand...
I agree. Both will work. But as you say the diode test also gives a beep so is my preferred method.
 
My hearing is so bad these days I can't hear any beeps, another wonderful sign of old age.
 
Good point Landry Andy. Never thought it had a battery but I have just opened it up and yes a battery is in there 9v and I would think it’s dead. I did think it strange how nothing lite up on screen when turned on. So off to get a battery today and then retest fuse on circuit board. At least that will eliminate one thing. 👍

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Update. New battery purchased and fitted to multimeter. Fuse on mother board reads 1 or -1 depending which way round you put the leads. This fuse is soldered on board. Because it’s registered something does that mean it’s ok. Other two fuses which you can replace are good.
 
I saw an interesting way of checking fuses the other day.

If it’s the tube type fuse found in plugs etc.

Get your smart phone to the pin screen, hold the fuse at one end and touch the other end on the screen on a number.

If the phone sees the fuse it’s good, if it doesn’t it’s blown 😊

You could do the same with a blade type fuse as well.
 
I was using my meter on sons bathroom light which had stopped working, even with a new bulb.
At first I was getting a reading of 120v at the bulb holder, then nothing
Checked between switch and lamp for continuity.
Ohms bouncing all over the place. (No Continuity function)
Put a new 9v battery in and just the same but no voltage at all.
Gave up at that point.
Bought a new meter but not been back yet.
Old one was still showing random readings even with leads removed.....now in bin
 
Mikey RV said:
Update. New battery purchased and fitted to multimeter. Fuse on mother board reads 1 or -1 depending which way round you put the leads. This fuse is soldered on board. Because it’s registered something does that mean it’s ok. Other two fuses which you can replace are good.
Click to expand...
A simple and crude explanation

Turn your meter on. You normally get a beep, and some reading on the screen. Set meter to correct setting, number 9, white triangle thing, as Two on Tour suggested. Look what reading you get on meter, touch the two leads of meter together, look what reading. Separate leads. Reading should be different.

The reading you got when leads were touching is what you will get if fuse is ok, reading you had with leads separate is what you will get for blown fuse.
 
Landy Andy said:
A simple and crude explanation

Turn your meter on. You normally get a beep, and some reading on the screen. Set meter to correct setting, number 9, white triangle thing, as Two on Tour suggested. Look what reading you get on meter, touch the two leads of meter together, look what reading. Separate leads. Reading should be different.

The reading you got when leads were touching is what you will get if fuse is ok, reading you had with leads separate is what you will get for blown fuse.
Click to expand...
Yes Landy, that's a good way to explain to a novice.

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pappajohn said:
I was using my meter on sons bathroom light which had stopped working, even with a new bulb.
At first I was getting a reading of 120v at the bulb holder, then nothing
Checked between switch and lamp for continuity.
Ohms bouncing all over the place. (No Continuity function)
Put a new 9v battery in and just the same but no voltage at all.
Gave up at that point.
Bought a new meter but not been back yet.
Old one was still showing random readings even with leads removed.....now in bin
Click to expand...

Be careful if you get a reading of 120v on a 240v system. It can be a sign either the positive or the neutral wire are not making good contact. I only know this after getting a mild tingle from a piece of equipment plugged into a standard 240v socket. The electrician did explain but cannot really remember it, something to do with half the AC wave.
Hopefully someone more qualified can explain, but as I said, be careful.
 
pappajohn said:
I was using my meter on sons bathroom light which had stopped working, even with a new bulb.
At first I was getting a reading of 120v at the bulb holder, then nothing
Checked between switch and lamp for continuity.
Ohms bouncing all over the place. (No Continuity function)
Put a new 9v battery in and just the same but no voltage at all.
Gave up at that point.
Bought a new meter but not been back yet.
Old one was still showing random readings even with leads removed.....now in bin
Click to expand...
You have probably got a neutral fault.
Get it checked by a competent electrician urgently! I used to be an electrical engineer.
 
Landy Andy said:
A simple and crude explanation

Turn your meter on. You normally get a beep, and some reading on the screen. Set meter to correct setting, number 9, white triangle thing, as Two on Tour suggested. Look what reading you get on meter, touch the two leads of meter together, look what reading. Separate leads. Reading should be different.

The reading you got when leads were touching is what you will get if fuse is ok, reading you had with leads separate is what you will get for blown fuse.
Click to expand...
An extremely nice clear explanation. Brilliant.
 
Ok so I have been in contact with Alde and told them my readings on the fuse you can’t change on the motherboard. Long thin thing on top row of photo below big block. They said it should read 4/5 so is knackered. But it’s less than two years old so if I send it off to them they will test and replace it. Lots of swearing and photo taking to remind me where all the fifteen connections go and with my bad shoulder, bad back and bumping my head I got it out and it will be posted off tomorrow. To be honest I nearly gave up but pleased I got it out. Will be even happier when the other ones back in and the heating is working again. Will update when job is complete. 👍
 
Sent it off to Alde yesterday with tracked mail. Looked this morning at tracking and sorry we sent it to the wrong crow lane so have diverted it. Thanks Royal Mail, when are you getting taken over.
Meanwhile I am sat here typing this and the temperature is 4 degrees and that’s inside. Even my I pad won’t charge because it says it’s too cold. So off to Argos today to get a heater before I freeze to death or get a divorce. 😂 Just hope that the mother board Is the problem and all will be sorted when it comes back. 👍
Photo is the one that should have been on last post. It proberly froze and dropped off. 😂
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Good luck, don’t forget to drain boiler just in case .
Maybe worth checking the blue connector, it looks as though it’s got warm
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When i was an electrocs apprentice, a piece of equipment we made had a 160mA fuse, one batch we bought were very poor quality, so one of the other lads wes asked to knock up a quick tester, so they could be tested, before they were inserted.
This he did, but the first 20 he tested all failed, that was when he relised that the current to feed the bulb he was using as an indicator was already 200mA. This is in the days before LEDs were readily available.
 
Mikey RV said:
Sent it off to Alde yesterday with tracked mail. Looked this morning at tracking and sorry we sent it to the wrong crow lane so have diverted it. Thanks Royal Mail, when are you getting taken over.
Meanwhile I am sat here typing this and the temperature is 4 degrees and that’s inside. Even my I pad won’t charge because it says it’s too cold. So off to Argos today to get a heater before I freeze to death or get a divorce. 😂 Just hope that the mother board Is the problem and all will be sorted when it comes back. 👍
Photo is the one that should have been on last post. It proberly froze and dropped off. 😂
View attachment 983690
Click to expand...
Just wondering if you’ve had any luck fixing this
 
Yes forgot to update.
New motherboard came back as the one I sent back was only eighteen months old and the main fuse on it had failed. So with me getting in all sorts of positions and swearing a bit and following my photos I took of all the fifteen connections I got it done and yes it’s working fine. And all works on gas fine also as we had a power cut for 36 hours while in Devon in the storm. 👍

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