Swift plastic bed runner supports replacements.

[barryd]

So the inevitable happened on our Christmas trip and I broke one of the rear lounge bed runner supports. It happened a few times on our old Kontiki but it seems even on the newer models they are still prone to giving up the ghost. I used to keep a few lengths in the garage on the old van but I dont have any for this one. I have found some lengths from The Leisure warehouse but the length I want which is 168cm is an eye watering £125 and I reckon I should get a spare for the other side also. Anyone got any spare or know where I might find them a bit cheaper? It is what it is I guess but I wonder if they can be improved upon and maybe supported better.

I can get the 1 meter cuts a lot cheaper and I wondered about buying two or three of them and if having them in two sections would improve on the strain on the supports or make it worse. Any thoughts?

This is the runner

 

[Purrfecttune]

Two years from new, one side on ours broke two thirds of the way down so I shortened it and repositioned it.
Then the other side broke three years in, two thirds of the way down.

Obviously a very poor design fault.

I ‘bit the bullet’ and bought a long length, I used a full length one side and the remainder the other side adding to what was left of the original. At the join, I sandpapered the edges to make them meet the best I could then applied a small piece of Duck Tape over the join.
After attaching them, I got two lengths of wood and used a saw to chamfer the correct angle along each length and attached them tight underneath for support.

Consequently, if you support them (as above) you shouldn’t need spares?

I contacted Swift to express my disappointment with the original quality and was irritated to receive a reply that said that they would have replaced them under a four year warranty (Do’h!)
They also said that they do not fit that design any more.

 

[barryd]

Two years from new, one side on ours broke two thirds of the way down so I shortened it and repositioned it.
Then the other side broke three years in, two thirds of the way down.

Obviously a very poor design fault.

I ‘bit the bullet’ and bought a long length, I used a full length one side and the remainder the other side adding to what was left of the original. At the join, I sandpapered the edges to make them meet the best I could then applied a small piece of Duck Tape over the join.
After attaching them, I got two lengths of wood and used a saw to chamfer the correct angle along each length and attached them tight underneath for support.

Consequently, if you support them (as above) you shouldn’t need spares?

I contacted Swift to express my disappointment with the original quality and was irritated to receive a reply that said that they would have replaced them under a four year warranty (Do’h!)
They also said that they do not fit that design any more.

Thanks. This design looks even weaker than the original on my previous 1996 Kontiki. I like your idea of strengthening them though. Our van gets a lot of use. Up to six months of the year so what I dont want to find is mid trip one breaks and I dont have a backup. The good thing about this van is if necessary the rear lounge seats are long enough to sleep on as singles which I had to do at Christmas. Pretty grim though. Ok for an emergency or a couple of days.

 

[Purrfecttune]

What gave me the idea is that when it broke the second time we were halfway through our trip around Scotland (Isle of Mull, Outer Hebrides, NC 500, Orkney).

We were at Dunnet Head and I popped into the Spa shop to see if there was any way of propping it up, such as long, sticky out screws. The guy from the garage opposite was in there (all a family business) and went out the back and found two short lengths of wood that were perfect. Not only that, they still had screws in them! So I used both, one to prop up the broken side and one to support the other before it could break again.

So, tried and tested in an emergency, likely to be even better now it’s ’custom made’.

 

[SVMC15]

I bought the 1m lengths in the end. I made a squarish dowel for the joint. I ended up buying 3 of them ready for the other side failing and it was still cheaper than the 1.6m length

Before the runner section failed and it was just the inner edge the seat rests on broken, I was using a piece of wood which worked really well. I was thinking of coming up with a plan to replace the whole lot but I got sidetracked on other things.

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[meanders]

One of ours broke on the old van. I used some beech strip I already had, routed out the L shape and waxed them. I then replaced the plastic completely. I glued and bolted them into place as the board they were fixed to did not seems particularly strong for holding screws. I must have taken a whole half kilogram of my payload, but were not going anywhere. When you think of the weight exerted on them by an adult on top, hollow plastic was never going to be up to job.

 

[The Coops]

I would try a length of Dexion shelving support and if it can be fitted then cover it, its supposed to take 200Kgs +

 

[lorger]

I have no knowledge of 3D printers so possibly talking nonsense, could you get it printed. PaulandChrissy might be able to answer this.

 

[headlight]

Two years from new, one side on ours broke two thirds of the way down so I shortened it and repositioned it.
Then the other side broke three years in, two thirds of the way down.

Obviously a very poor design fault.

I ‘bit the bullet’ and bought a long length, I used a full length one side and the remainder the other side adding to what was left of the original. At the join, I sandpapered the edges to make them meet the best I could then applied a small piece of Duck Tape over the join.
After attaching them, I got two lengths of wood and used a saw to chamfer the correct angle along each length and attached them tight underneath for support.

Consequently, if you support them (as above) you shouldn’t need spares?

I contacted Swift to express my disappointment with the original quality and was irritated to receive a reply that said that they would have replaced them under a four year warranty (Do’h!)
They also said that they do not fit that design any more.

Likewise on my Swift the runner on one side cracked.
I couldn't get the same shape runner anywhere.
So where it had cracked I put a small nut and bolt either side of the break, through the wood it was attached to to hold it in place, then screwd a length of batten tight underneath it.
Not noticeable unless you get on your hands and knees and much stronger now.
All I had done was sit on the bed, all 11 stone of me so not a great load I wouldn't have thought.

 

[Puddleduck]

I have no knowledge of 3D printers so possibly talking nonsense, could you get it printed. PaulandChrissy might be able to answer this.

It would depend on the material used (PLA not strong enough), size of the printer (Max print size of ours is 20cm cube) but would take hours to print.

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[lorger]

It would depend on the material used (PLA not strong enough), size of the printer (Max print size of ours is 20cm cube) but would take hours to print.

Told you I know nothing about 3D printing

 

[PaulandChrissy]

The length you need is the problem. My biggest printer can only do 360mm cubed. I can print in carbon fibre nylon so that would be super strong, but the length is still the issue. Also as Puddledock mentioned before, large items like that can take days to print.

 

[Sleeveless]

I made my own from aluminum profiles , not because the plastic runner failed, but because Bailey thought it acceptable for the centre sliding section to be an inch lower than the sides, causing a dip in the bed. If you don't want to go that far , just reinforce the underside of the plastic runner with angle profile where it bears the weight.

 

[PaulandChrissy]

I made my own from aluminum profiles , not because the plastic runner failed, but because Bailey thought it acceptable for the centre sliding section to be an inch lower than the sides, causing a dip in the bed.View attachment 1001406

Now that’s a much stronger solution.

 

[Puddleduck]

large items like that can take days to print.

And always go wrong when you take your eye off it.

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[barryd]

I made my own from aluminum profiles , not because the plastic runner failed, but because Bailey thought it acceptable for the centre sliding section to be an inch lower than the sides, causing a dip in the bed. If you don't want to go that far , just reinforce the underside of the plastic runner with angle profile where it bears the weight. View attachment 1001406

That looks really good. I have a biker pal down in Birmingham who can design and build anything who has offered to help but he is 180 miles away. He would build something like that out of steel or aluminium I guess. My thoughts were to buy the proper runners and try and re-enforce them. My next door neighbour is pretty handy. Trouble is Im absolutely useless unless it has strings or a screen.

That might be the answer though. Some angle profile steel or aluminium under the proper runners. Not sure how strong the supporting wood is though of the seat.

Thanks for all the help so far everyone.

 

[Purrfecttune]

Providing you use enough (and long enough) screws in the support underneath, the side wall should be fine.

It will be primarily supporting the entire length from the top, so the underneath support will only be an addition that isn’t taking the full weight.

 

[barryd]

Providing you use enough (and long enough) screws in the support underneath, the side wall should be fine.

It will be primarily supporting the entire length from the top, so the underneath support will only be an addition that isn’t taking the full weight.

Thanks. A friend has suggested Sikaflex for the support baton. Maybe both screws and sikaflex? Out of my comfort zone. I am going to take it to my neighbour this morning and show him the problem. See what he comes up with.

 

[Purrfecttune]

Thanks. A friend has suggested Sikaflex for the support baton. Maybe both screws and sikaflex? Out of my comfort zone. I am going to take it to my neighbour this morning and show him the problem. See what he comes up with.

I never thought of that at the time. If I had, I would have sikafkexed it as well

 

[barryd]

So my engineer type neighbour has had a look and I sent some pictures over to my designer pal in Birmingham. Next door neighbour said some matching timber supports would work but maybe metal might be better. One thing I discovered is the angle is not 90 degrees on the underside of the bed runner structure. Perhaps it was designed this way to increase strength. Doesn't work then!

This is what my pal in Birmingham knocked up yesterday as a quick back of the fag packet design. Probably in 50cm sections (easier to ship).

If I go this route ill just buy another strip of the original bed runner and fit the supports. Which will be best and look the best do you think. Steel / Aluminium or timber?

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[Purrfecttune]

The reason I used a length of timber was because a carpenter friend of mine had the right type of portable machine saw that could be set at different angles, thus enabling me to cut it along the entire length at the correct angle.

(Not being right-angled posed the biggest challenge).

 

[Purrfecttune]

A photo of mine.

The grey strip is the plastic length and the wood is underneath. I used coloured wood varnish once it was in place.

With the cushions in place it’s barely noticeable.

 

[barryd]

Thanks. My neighbour thinks it wont be a problem getting the angled wood. I think my guy in Birmingham said the steel or aluminium would be powder coated. Just cant decide which would function best and look the best. I need to get it right as Mrs D is not keen on the idea at all and thinks I just should just get another runner and not bother. I know what will happen though. Mid trip next summer ill break the other one.

 

[Purrfecttune]

Without support they will definitely keep breaking, so an expensive option. Also, it’s likely that there will come a time when they are no longer available at all.

Both sides on ours broke before the mileage reached 12,000 from new

Aluminium would be good, the only people who would notice it would be those that already knew it was there, and even then, only if you were on your hands and knees. It would also be very light and look a natural part of the trim.

 

[SVMC15]

Thanks. My neighbour thinks it wont be a problem getting the angled wood. I think my guy in Birmingham said the steel or aluminium would be powder coated. Just cant decide which would function best and look the best. I need to get it right as Mrs D is not keen on the idea at all and thinks I just should just get another runner and not bother. I know what will happen though. Mid trip next summer ill break the other one.

I think I would use aluminium, 2mm section though. As for finish you could use worktop vinyl to colour it?

Depending on how keen you are to take the runner off you could remove the angle section at the bottom of it and then use a right angled aluminium section, possibly even stick permanently to each other.

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[barryd]

Thanks. I have made a little video which was just for my friend who has offered to design the metal supports but it might give you an insight to how it all works. It wasnt really meant for public viewing so apologies in advance for the sweary bits.

 

[Purrfecttune]

Looks veeeeerrrry familiar!

 

[barryd]

Bit of a curve ball but another friend has thrown a really simple solution into the ring. Just remove the plastic runners altogether and fit two pieces of matching timber the full length for the slats to run out on. My worry with this is there must be a reason the manufacturers build these complex hooked over bed runners. My thoughts were that by looping them over it perhaps applies more pressure vertically than something that is just screwed into the side but if you were to strengthen up the other side could you not literally bolt on two pieces of wood instead?

 

[Purrfecttune]

I did consider that, and also wondered why that simple idea wasn’t used in the original design, which is why I kept the runners and reinforced them in case I’d missed something.

I think it may be so that most of the weight falls directly downwards on top of the supporting walls. If resting on something that is purely affixed from the side, then it would rely on full sideways pressure on the screws used to attach it.

 

[barryd]

I did consider that, and also wondered why that simple idea wasn’t used in the original design, which is why I kept the runners and reinforced them in case I’d missed something.

I think it may be so that most of the weight falls directly downwards on top of the supporting walls. If resting on something that is purely affixed from the side, then it would rely on full sideways pressure on the screws used to attach it.

That was my concern also. However some decent timber screwed in along several regular locations and Sikaflex with perhaps some reinforcement on the back of the side panel might work. My designer had a closer look at the design of the official runners and he thinks they will still break eventually even with the metal supports as the structure is such that the two sides of the support and the structure will not be flat against each other. The bed wont collapse with the supports but the runners will eventually break still. Coupled with the fact that so far its seems the original runners are in short supply (I can only find one) its inevitable that down the line I am going to need to come up with something bespoke that will last the lifetime of the van. Its likely ill keep it 10 to 15 years.