Starter motor trouble

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Jul 15, 2020
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Hi
We have had an intermittent fault with our hymer b764sl since new.
On a long run, particularly when hot, the bus fails to start when turned off.
Sometimes there is then a click and all returns to normal.
I have replaced the starter motor and solenoid but problem persists.
Currently stuck in a leclerc car park in Normandy…..
Any suggestions/ people had similar problems?
Cheers
Paul
 
Possibly the earth connection from chassis to gearbox. (The cables in the crimps can corrode)
Confirm it by using a temporary jump lead from under-bonnet earth point to engine block.
 
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Could be voltage drop on the circuit to the solenoid , try direct jump from heavy battery positive supply to solenoid activation terminal to eliminate .(little square spade)
 
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Dodgy connection on cable to solenoid.
Another favourite is the ignition switch.
Easy to overcome . Get 5' of cable crimp female terminal on one end, when non start happens,leave ignition on, remove terminal to solenoid, push on terminal on your cable and touch other end to battery live. Make sure not in gear.
 
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Hi
We have had an intermittent fault with our hymer b764sl since new.
On a long run, particularly when hot, the bus fails to start when turned off.
Sometimes there is then a click and all returns to normal.
I have replaced the starter motor and solenoid but problem persists.
Currently stuck in a leclerc car park in Normandy…..
Any suggestions/ people had similar problems?
Cheers
Paul
When you say you have replaced starter motor
Did you do it or someone else
Was the gearbox face clean from corrosion and bolts clean from corosion

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Do you find that once the engine has cooled down after say 2 hours, then it starts as normal ?
Not sure if it's the same issue, but this used to be a regular problem on older VW vans.
The solution was to hit the starter motor with a heavy blunt object.

I eventually replaced the can of beans/half a brick with a small hammer to get around the regular problem.
Several times in motorway services amazed people by starting their old VW's with a can of beans.
 
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Thank you all
When fully cooled it will start after a click of disengagement.
Yesterday I ended up lying in a soaking car park tapping solenoid with a claw hammer but it worked!
I will look into the electrical ideas but it seems mechanical?
Just don’t know what to do about it…
 
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Seeing as you say you have changed starter and solenoid its pretty unlikely to be mechanical, particular factor is heat increases electrical resistance , and its most likely the pre rotate pull in power that's low , so connections, terminals and current need checking .

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DoktorHymer I had similar and it was the ignition switch, new switch off fleabay £12 and all good. It is a bit of and arse to change so you need to be sure that's the prob.
 
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If it turns out to be the ignition switch I wouldn’t bother, get a push switch and run direct to solinoid ,
Easier in the long run,
 
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I (after replacing earth strap + adding an extra) still have odd starting issues. Was mostly fine 10 times in a row over a long weekend away but one time it took maybe 6 key turns to get started. Just turn and a click - with some faith you try again and again then is starts.

How do you determine if the issue is the starter motor or the ignition switch? I'm hesitant to replace the starter motor as it was replaced maybe 3 years ago (2008 Relay 2.2L XLWB) so would have thought it would last a lot longer though is not used for some months.
 
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For what the switch costs (£12 on fleabay) it's worth a go. It fixed my same issue but it's a PITA to do.
 
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Hi
We have had an intermittent fault with our hymer b764sl since new.
On a long run, particularly when hot, the bus fails to start when turned off.
Sometimes there is then a click and all returns to normal.
I have replaced the starter motor and solenoid but problem persists.
Currently stuck in a leclerc car park in Normandy…..
Any suggestions/ people had similar problems?
Cheers
Paul
Similar on a Ducato based Swift Siena. Turned out to be the deadly Ducato earthing problem. Replacing the earth strap between the battery and the chassis has done the trick so far . . . .

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For what the switch costs (£12 on fleabay) it's worth a go. It fixed my same issue but it's a PITA to do.
OK, can do - any pointers appreciated for instructions and product - are we talking a new barrel and keys like this link?
 
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OK, can do - any pointers appreciated for instructions and product - are we talking a new barrel and keys like this link?

stylo2000 I just replaced the switch, the hard part is getting the trim covers off, mine needed long reach allen keys.




This vid on youtube is not in english but it easy to follow, you can see the black switch at around 3.25 in. You dont need to take the whole assembly off to change the switch, you just unplug the loom then unclip the switch from the barrel housing then do the reverse with the new one. The important thing is to note which way it came out as I think it can go back in 180° out, if you know what i mean.

Just had a butchers, on mine 2013 the screws to remove the steering column housing are 3mm allen screws I needed long reach ones with a ball on the end as 1 or 2 are at a slight angle.

Hope this all helps.
 
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Check the small connection on the starter solenoid is tight and clean. Fixed a non starter the other day due to this. Ok cold, not ok hot.
 
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This vid on youtube is not in english but it easy to follow, you can see the black switch at around 3.25 in. You dont need to take the whole assembly off to change the switch, you just unplug the loom then unclip the switch from the barrel housing then do the reverse with the new one. The important thing is to note which way it came out as I think it can go back in 180° out, if you know what i mean.

Just had a butchers, on mine 2013 the screws to remove the steering column housing are 3mm allen screws I needed long reach ones with a ball on the end as 1 or 2 are at a slight angle.

Hope this all helps.
OK will have a look and see - probably have a van that won't start for another reason after that :)

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So after a nice trip where engine starts first time get home and then won't start. Guessing may be temp related so let it call down. no joy, next day no joy so call AA. AA comes and starts - driving me mad :) He thinks may be the key as he said he felt it not engage first time properly but next time was OK. So Looks like I'm going to be buying a new barrel and fitting that hopefully will work OK with current key.

Looking at my ignition, looks like the ring on the outside is missing and also maybe the plastic tab that I see in the videos - guess someone has done something with this before! When I bought the van it only had 1 key - a basic looking one that I suppose has the immobiliser chip inside.

Considering this - is it possible/DIYable to replace the whole unit and still use the same key?

1721566871553.png
 
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Also check the starter battery connections if a Fiat the negative quick release terminal sometimes works lose.
This was the cause of my starting issues. Sounded like the starter motor but the positive terminal wasn't making a solid enough connection all the time.
Most of the time it was fine. But occasionally I would get a no start, always when I had recently run it and it was warm such as going to the shop.
Started ok to get to the shops. but coming out of the shops it wouldn't start.
 
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Normally a replacement needs coding to recognise the key(s). This includes recoding for all the keys for which it was originally set up but which may be an issue if you only have one of them.
 
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