Solar panel location

[GaryGavlaar]

Hi all,

Just about to install a 175w victron panel to my roof. Just wondering if there is a preferred location to choose when installing. I'm looking at the back at the mo (see picture) but could maybe bring it upto the front, but may have to go longest edge forward if I come to the front.

Also, I'm going the sika flex 252 route I think and wondered if you can get a spoiler if some kind to divert air over the to when driving maybe. Any too tips would be very much appreciated.

Cheers.

 

[Just smiffy]

I’d put it with room that I may possibly put more panels in the future.
I would also try and get some Ali angle for brackets rather then the plastic ones…

 

[RM_Marine]

I used a set of these as I had a after market panel fitted and there wasn't anything fitted

Spark 2 aluminium solar panel side brackets/spoilers for fitting solar panels to motorhomes, caravans, boats or roofs Amazon product ASIN B09K6FB5RH


Thank you for commenting and saying that my roof is very clean , that's wet and forget for you.

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[GaryGavlaar]

I’d put it with room that I may possibly put more panels in the future.
I would also try and get some Ali angle for brackets rather then the plastic ones…

Why not the plastic ones? Seems to be the go to method. They will be bonded down with sika. Not the easiest of things to do to bolt angle down and have plates, nuts bolts coming through the motorhome ceiling.

 

[GaryGavlaar]

I used a set of these as I had a after market panel fitted and there wasn't anything fitted

Spark 2 aluminium solar panel side brackets/spoilers for fitting solar panels to motorhomes, caravans, boats or roofs Amazon product ASIN B09K6FB5RH

Are these just a spoiler or are they supposed to be to replace the hard plastic corner fixings?

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[Tombola]

Are these just a spoiler or are they supposed to be to replace the hard plastic corner fixings?

brackets with a "spoiler" profile

 

[Figaro]

Are these just a spoiler or are they supposed to be to replace the hard plastic corner fixings?

There are many instances of people losing panels whilst driving. Nearly all have used plastic corner attachments.
I believe the theory is over time the plastic gives off oils / releasing agents particularly in warm climates. These can weaken the bond.

 

[Guigsy]

There are many instances of people losing panels whilst driving. Nearly all have used plastic corner attachments.
I believe the theory is over time the plastic gives off oils / releasing agents particularly in warm climates. These can weaken the bond.

Aren't alloy brackets always screwed down?

 

[Figaro]

Aren't alloy brackets always screwed down?

I put some stainless self tappers in the ali brackets along with the sikaflex after research. The trouble is they only go into the thin ali sheet which isn't a secure fixing on its own

 

[Stealaway]

Why not the plastic ones? Seems to be the go to method. They will be bonded down with sika. Not the easiest of things to do to bolt angle down and have plates, nuts bolts coming through the motorhome ceiling.

I wouldn't be able to just trust glued corners especially I would be fitting them.
I consider L brackets to be belt and braces and they don't have to be so long as to come through the roof.
Burstner used screwed down brackets to be sure.

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[Guigsy]

I put some stainless self tappers in the ali brackets along with the sikaflex after research. The trouble is they only go into the thin ali sheet which isn't a secure fixing on its own

So if you add a couple of screws to plastic brackets, I'm sure they'd be secure too.

 

[RM_Marine]

I wouldn't be able to just trust glued corners especially I would be fitting them.
I consider L brackets to be belt and braces and they don't have to be so long as to come through the roof.
Burstner used screwed down brackets to be sure.

View attachment 761529

Oh I love the rockery feature on the roof, where is the fire pit and Marsh mellows

 

[GaryGavlaar]

I wouldn't be able to just trust glued corners especially I would be fitting them.
I consider L brackets to be belt and braces and they don't have to be so long as to come through the roof.
Burstner used screwed down brackets to be sure.

View attachment 761529

Surely a couple of self tappers going into a plastic roof isn't going to do much extra. If the wind got under the panel surely they would be straight out?

 

[Lenny HB]

Why not the plastic ones? Seems to be the go to method.

Nearly all the panels that come off have been fixed with plastic corners. Plastic corners have to have right adhesive only a few of the Stika's are suitable most people use the wrong one.

Aren't alloy brackets always screwed down?

Nope, I've fitted my own to 3 vans never screwed and never had any problems.

I put some stainless self tappers in the ali brackets along with the sikaflex after research. The trouble is they only go into the thin ali sheet which isn't a secure fixing on its own

Not a good idea, stainless steel & alloy combination causes galvanic corrosion, the alloy around the self tapper will just corrode away.

 

[Lenny HB]

wondered if you can get a spoiler if some kind to divert air over the to when driving maybe.

Recent thread discussing solid brackets & spoilers, if you reduce the airflow under the panel and just have airflow over the top it creates more lift.

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[Stealaway]

Surely a couple of self tappers going into a plastic roof isn't going to do much extra. If the wind got under the panel surely they would be straight out?

It's not just a plastic sheet.
The roof is a 10-15mm composite ply construction, strong enough to stand on.

 

[GaryGavlaar]

Lenny HB which is the correct adhesive. I've seen a guide that suggests sika 252

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

When I asked my panel supplier about using the plastic blocks I'd had supplied with the panel from him he stated their for "house flat roofs ". I did use them, but took an angle grinder to the bottoms, and also used some 75mm angle, as a belt and braces. There will be shed loads of reading on the subject in the search area.
Narrow edge on would be better, and as near as the cable entry point is going to be means less wire draped across the roof.
P.S. DON'T repeat my error and weigh down the panel after applying the Sikaflex 522, it should have a 2/3mm overall thickness [ see picture one] . Note also addition ally sections in photo 2.
I seem to have got away with it thus far, hitting 130km on some French roads, and it's still rock solid, but be warned.

 

[GaryGavlaar]

When I asked my panel supplier about using the plastic blocks I'd had supplied with the panel from him he stated their for "house flat roofs ". I did use them, but took an angle grinder to the bottoms, and also used some 75mm angle, as a belt and braces. There will be shed loads of reading on the subject in the search area.
Narrow edge on would be better, and as near as the cable entry point is going to be means less wire draped across the roof.
P.S. DON'T repeat my error and weigh down the panel after applying the Sikaflex 522, it should have a 2/3mm overall thickness [ see picture one] . Note also addition ally sections in photo 2.
I seem to have got away with it thus far, hitting 130km on some French roads, and it's still rock solid, but be warned.
View attachment 761540View attachment 761541

Yes I'm going to go down the tile spacer route I think to make sure I get that bead thickness, will also be sanding the bottom of the feet and the motorhome to get a decent key.

So you used 522? Ive been told 252 :/

 

[BouncyBoatFolk]

Yes I'm going to go down the tile spacer route I think to make sure I get that bead thickness, will also be sanding the bottom of the feet and the motorhome to get a decent key.

So you used 522? Ive been told 252 :/

Ask 50 people and you're as likely to get 50 different, "this is best " suggestions. To satisfy yourself fire an email off to Sikaflex. In answer to your question, yes I used 522. Check it's date also, make sure it's fresh stock.
Mike.

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[BouncyBoatFolk]

Yes I'm going to go down the tile spacer route I think to make sure I get that bead thickness, will also be sanding the bottom of the feet and the motorhome to get a decent key.

So you used 522? Ive been told 252 :/

Acetone the bottoms of the brackets, and the roughened area of the roof, mask up AFTER using the acetone, it affects masking tape and WELDS it to the roof , there's another "T" shirt you won't have to buy because I already have it
Mike.

 

[Lenny HB]

Lenny HB which is the correct adhesive. I've seen a guide that suggests sika 252

You need to talk to Stika, no way I would risk plastic brackets.

 

[Sandancers]

Acetone the bottoms of the brackets, and the roughened area of the roof, mask up AFTER using the acetone, it affects masking tape and WELDS it to the roof , there's another "T" shirt you won't have to buy because I already have it
Mike.

Sika actually sells an activator which is applied (after abrasion) to the two joining surfaces, before applying the 522 (and yes that's what the man at Sika tech services recommended). This activator is not cheap, has a limited lifespan, and you only use a tiny amount of it, but it cleans and primes the surfaces all at once. But read the tech sheet on how to apply it.