Solar panel fitting and damp readings

[VXman]

Had a solar panel fitted by a large motorhome aftermarket fitter (I'll not mention them yet as they will hopefully be dealing with it) about 6 weeks ago.

I took the MH for its first warranty damp check (1 year old) and the dealership said there are levels up to 40% in the area of the feet of the panel and the solar gland. This invalidates the water ingress warranty as it wasn't fitted by the manufacturer dealer. (Not thought about this when I had it fitted unfortunately)

Seems unfortunate that this has happened. A respectable motorhome fitter shouldn't have a problem with a straight forward job like this surely?

Or is this a common problem with auxiliary roof fittings?

Another question - what are acceptable and what are high damp readings? Is 40 very high. Some other areas are 10. Is that OK?

 

[Two on Tour]

Are your panels mountings plastic or aluminum?
My non-invasive damp meter senses the presents of metal and the reading increases when near metalwork and this could be the case for the raised damp readings rather than dampness itself.
Also, the solar panel cabling contains copper another metal and the damp meter may also be picking this up.

If the damp meter they used is the invasive pin type then I'm not aware that this type of damp meter will detect the presents of metalwork.

 

[stevec]

How did they mount the panels? If they used screws then I’d be very suspicious.

 

[Stealaway]

How did they mount the panels? If they used screws then I’d be very suspicious.

The factory fitted solar panel on my Burstner was fixed by stainless L brackets and screws.

 

[monzer]

Another question - what are acceptable and what are high damp readings? Is 40 very high. Some other areas are 10. Is that OK?

If I recall correctly, 10-15 is fine and to be expected. 40 is high though and will need to be looked at.

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[Kannon Fodda]

The hand held damp meters were originally devised for moisture content in timber to detect the wood susceptibility or risk of rot. Over time these meters became used for all sorts of stuff and unsuited materials, usually by people who had little clue how to interpret the readings given. To really impress the unwary many have added nice blingy LED warning lights and beepers just so someone can sell an expensive treatment. Ultimately these meters are part of a tool to assist diagnosis of whether there may or may not be an issue and all sorts of other things, including basic look touch and smell should be employed.

You have to understand the scale being displayed by the meter. Is it a percentage, relative to what? Is it perhaps 0-500 or some other random number.

Wood will be affected by general humidity. Your motorhome, left unheated would no doubt have higher ambient moisture content. Wood used internally for joinery such as skirtings in a heated house will probably have a moisture content around 8%. Structural timbers for ground floors, roofs, could be 10-15% depending on exposure. Above 20% moisture and some timbers will be increasingly susceptible to rot.

 

[Jimbohorlicks]

The factory fitted solar panel on my Burstner was fixed by stainless L brackets and screws.

It's not the type of screws( st steel are best though) it's the sealant that's needed to go with them thats important.

 

[VXman]

The hand held damp meters were originally devised for moisture content in timber to detect the wood susceptibility or risk of rot. Over time these meters became used for all sorts of stuff and unsuited materials, usually by people who had little clue how to interpret the readings given. To really impress the unwary many have added nice blingy LED warning lights and beepers just so someone can sell an expensive treatment. Ultimately these meters are part of a tool to assist diagnosis of whether there may or may not be an issue and all sorts of other things, including basic look touch and smell should be employed.

You have to understand the scale being displayed by the meter. Is it a percentage, relative to what? Is it perhaps 0-500 or some other random number.

Wood will be affected by general humidity. Your motorhome, left unheated would no doubt have higher ambient moisture content. Wood used internally for joinery such as skirtings in a heated house will probably have a moisture content around 8%. Structural timbers for ground floors, roofs, could be 10-15% depending on exposure. Above 20% moisture and some timbers will be increasingly susceptible to rot.

Sorry, I was talking percentage just being lazy in my typing.

Regarding timber. This is a one year old motorhome. Are roofs still made of timber? Certainly the floor isn't - it's GRP and therefore isn't even measured for damp.

 

[VXman]

How did they mount the panels? If they used screws then I’d be very suspicious.

I think they are screwed in but I also remember that being the recommended method of attachment. It is sealed as well.

Surely that should not be a problem. Stuff like satillite dishes must be screwed in too.

 

[Lenny HB]

I think they are screwed in but I also remember that being the recommended method of attachment. It is sealed as well.

Surely that should not be a problem. Stuff like satillite dishes must be screwed in too.

I fitted both solar panels & sat dish just with adhesive been up there 5 years without a problem.
A lot of companies won't just use adhesive to safeguard themselves against it failing. But a self tapper into thin aluminum is not going to do much.

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[AndyPK]

This invalidates the water ingress warranty as it wasn't fitted by the manufacturer dealer.

Does this mean that all of your ‘vans water ingress warranty is void, or just the roof where the panel/gland were fitted….?

 

[Lenny HB]

Does this mean that all of your ‘vans water ingress warranty is void, or just the roof where the panel/gland were fitted….?

If you read the small print of most manufacturers it completely voids the warranty, however if you had a leak in a totally different area I think you would have a good case in court.

 

[gus-lopez]

Surely that should not be a problem. Stuff like satillite dishes must be screwed in too.

No,not necessarily.

 

[Carolyn and Kev]

Salop leisure and Hab check state that the ' normal" for a zero percentage in any vehicle is actually 6 to 8% . The reason is due to moisture in the air at any given time. The colder the weather the more higher the "Normal" reading will be allowed. Both Salop and Hab check state that anything above 20% is classed as water ingress and further action is required to rectify it before it gets worse.
Our Last Apache 634 had 26% in the garage door areas and it ended up going back to Grimsby (Autotrail) for warranty repairs. It was found that the doors were actually allowing water to seep into the timbers in each corner of the motorhome. It was away for a 12 week period . That's 26%......So if a reading of anything higher is found it's obviously a big problem and the warranty should sort it out. That aside ..the company who fitted your solar system need to be looked at because their liability insurance should cover them in any case should they be held responsible for the water ingress you now suffer with. Think you will struggle with the Dealership to be honest?
Hope you can get it sorted though ASAP ?

Regards Kev

 

[VXman]

Does this mean that all of your ‘vans water ingress warranty is void, or just the roof where the panel/gland were fitted….?

I asked the Burstner dealer this. They said technically yes - however Burstner are flexible about it. I would assume that if there was adamp issue which was clearly unconnected to the solar panel then they should honour it.

One takeaway from this though is - if you value your warranty don't got to 3rd party fitters!

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[Lenny HB]

One takeaway from this though is - if you value your warranty don't got to 3rd party fitters!

Then they get a local 3rd party fitter to do the job, your warranty may still be in tack but you get a crap job.

Far better to do it yourself.

 

[AndyPK]

Then they get a local 3rd party fitter to do the job, your warranty may still be in tack but you get a crap job.

Ooooh…….cynical (but true?)!!

 

[VXman]

Then they get a local 3rd party fitter to do the job, your warranty may still be in tack but you get a crap job.

Far better to do it yourself.

Fine if you are experienced with DIY but I wouldn't be comfortable drilling the roof on my 1 year old van, nor removing panels inside to route wiring.