Solar Panel Cable Fitting

SteveandSue

SteveandSue

Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Posts
590
Likes collected
269
Location
Guisborough North Yorkshi
Funster No
5,677
MH
Malibu T410
Exp
Since August 2008
Just after a bit of advice re newly fitted solar panel

Would people expect the cable to be jointed underneath a newly fitted solar panel?
Old cable appears to have been cut and then jointed to the new cable and taped up?
So there is some slack in cables laid under panel which can move about.
Is this a fault waiting to happen in the future do you think? Or is it acceptable way of renewing a panel?
I would have thought new cable would be taken into van and if not long enough to go to the controller then a jointed inside the van away from the elements?
Peoples experience much appreciated
 
Most panels only have short leads and fitted with MC4 plugs, so you do find some installations with a type of join / connection on the roof, Unless the entry point is close enough not to need it.
You can either run extra cables into the van with MC4 plugs already on and plug into the solar cables.
OR.. Cut cables and join together with a terminal block or similar joint BUT it's a better practice to house that in an external box on the roof.
If it's just been joined and taped it may well be fine but not a neat way to do it..
 
Steve/Sue

Normally a weatherproof MC4 connector used for joining solar panel cables. Typically this is done externally and thus only 2 cables going into van rather than 4, 6 etc. Could you have the correct connector under the taping? Maybe grab a picture and post it up for us to see.

In my case I cable tied the MC4 connectors under the panel after drilling a small hole in the side of the panel and have no additional weather proofing on them.
 
I put new panels on my van a few weeks ago and the new cables were supplied and looked okay without any extra covering.
7827BCDE-0D77-475E-96FB-7B9124D3D4C6.jpeg
 
Thanks - will post a photo - just it looks wrong/scruffy for a new fit?

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
When I took off my old panel to fit a bigger one the cable had been routed through the PVCs roof through one of those plastic gland things. That was completely full of sealant so no way would you get a new cable through without replacing gland.

But panel also came with the plug things on end of cables that were about 4m long. Those would never get through a gland even if a very big hole drilled in roof. 4 m is far to long to be coiled on the roof.

The cable was long enough once those plugs cut off to get to the controller, with new gland fitted, but to do so I had a tedious time taking down bathroom ceiling and wall panel to get to the cable routes. OK a time is money basis how many motorhome electricians would do that.

So yes a joint on the roof makes sense, but I'd hope it would be with new waterproof fittings rather than a basic connector protected by taoe.
 
Whilst trying to take photos I decided to look inside trunking which was existing but had been turned around - on removing top I found what I presume is the correct type of joing used in the original installation?Joint 3.JPG
 
If you have some electrical tape to repatch it I'd open it up to have a look and see what's underneath.
 
SteveandSue said:
Whilst trying to take photos I decided to look inside trunking which was existing but had been turned around - on removing top I found what I presume is the correct type of joing used in the original installation?View attachment 775252
Click to expand...
Surely you can make the connectors off again, are they re-usable, if so cut back what you don't need and make them off again and leave all joints in the trunking
 
Insider said:
If you have some electrical tape to repatch it I'd open it up to have a look and see what's underneath.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't. I think you'd be rather annoyed to realise it's inadequacy. A proper IP rated jointing system is expected. That doesn't even qualify as a bodge.
 
You can buy MC4 “Y” shaped connectors for a few quid on Amazon or ebay, no need to be messing about with insulation tape which will go hot n sticky n loose it’s cohesion the first time it sees temperatures in excess of around 25-30 degrees. Self amalgamating tape doesn’t go gooey but it’s not nearly as good as the proper connectors. The other thing about the connectors is they are easy to make and break if you have a problem panel. You also have to suspect that the taped up version you have on your roof may not be making a great electrical connection, leading to extra heat, leading to burnt to the axles motor home. Take it back and demand proper connections and threaten to publish/name and shame on this site.

Cheers!

Ruus
 
Thanks for all the replies - they are helpful.
I am not going to remove anything at this point. It has been a bit of an ongoing saga for what we expected was a very simple job!
We are discussing our options but your replies are very much what I expected I just wanted to check that I wasn't been a bit over the top in my expectations.
I hadn't considered the heat generated from a white roof under the solar panel onto the taped joint - I was just thinking if something looks wrong then it usually is -I totally agree that it could now be reconnected at the connection in the conduit - but that really is not the point.
 
If I had to do an external connection of two cables I would sleeve the joint with adhesive lined heat shrink sleeving.

I would open up the joint and check how the cables are joined.

Easy enough to replace the cables to the panel they just have ring terminals where they connect inside the junction box on the back of the panel.
 
SteveandSue said:
View attachment 775248
Click to expand...
Whilst I agree with the sentiments of others, it looks like self amalgamating tape has been used. It is far more water proof that electrical tape and normal heat shrink sleeving.

I hope the connections are soldered and insulated though.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Whilst I appreciate the informative advice to put it right - that really is not the point. This was a very expensive job
- I don't think its self amalg tape - and if it is - once set you cant get that stuff off = You do not expect a taped joint to be stuffed under a solar panel! Or at least I don't.
I aint technical but I am certain I would not have done this - There are other issues around the fitting but I know what they are - I just wanted to check this one out - Qualified fitters don't normally tape up joints - and it seems you all agree.
Will let you know it eventually leads
 
Lenny HB said:
If I had to do an external connection of two cables I would sleeve the joint with adhesive lined heat shrink sleeving.

I would open up the joint and check how the cables are joined.

Easy enough to replace the cables to the panel they just have ring terminals where they connect inside the junction box on the back of the panel.
Click to expand...
Just re read your post Lenny
Cant see how you would get under the panel - its stuck down - again not what we asked for - but thats whole other story:(
 
SteveandSue said:
Thanks for all the replies - they are helpful.
I am not going to remove anything at this point. It has been a bit of an ongoing saga for what we expected was a very simple job!
We are discussing our options but your replies are very much what I expected I just wanted to check that I wasn't been a bit over the top in my expectations.
I hadn't considered the heat generated from a white roof under the solar panel onto the taped joint - I was just thinking if something looks wrong then it usually is -I totally agree that it could now be reconnected at the connection in the conduit - but that really is not the point.
Click to expand...
I hate it when people do a bad job,but if you take it back to the fitters it would probably cost more in fuel than to repair it yourself. Name and shame the company if they don't come to your house to re-do their bodge job!

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Hi Lenny
I cant see any bolts anywhere - the Alumimium angle is the bracket and that is the part of the panel that is stuck onto the roof - unless I am missing something the only way to get it off without potentially damaging the roof is to cut the angle off. But I will take another look. The previous panel was easy as just 4 bolts and it ws off and left the feet in situ.
 
You can cut the sealant from the bracket to panel frame with a filling/stripping knife. Just get a shiny two inch scraper, and wet it. Work at at it by moving it at angles and eventually you will be trough. If you have space use a hack saw blade, or multitool if you have one.
 

Join us or log in to post a reply.

To join in you must be a member of MotorhomeFun

Join MotorhomeFun

Join us, it quick and easy!

Join us

Log in

Already a member? Log in here.

Latest journal entries

Back
Top