Solar controller - is is it worth upgrading? (2 Viewers)

[Andy MacD]

Hi all, for the electrical experts who have done this some advice please.

I have a 2021 Adria Twin and last year installed 280ah Fogstar, Victron Shunt and battery master. I’ve very pleased with this set up as it extends the off grid days but never seem to get much out of the solar panel. Rarely do I see a + current. The standard Adria solar controller is a SunControl NDS SC300 MPPT connected to the schaudt EBL 211 and the panel is either 100w or 120w.

So the question is, am I likely to get any benefit from upgrading the solar controller to a Victron?

The photo shows typical reading from the shunt in full sunlight with clean panel and everything in the van off. I rarely get current above this.

For anyone who has done this type of upgrade what improvement could I expect.

Thanks

 

[VXman]

A few things here.

1. If you are not getting any voltage through I suggest there is something seriously wrong with your set up - you should get a reasonable voltage even in cloudy weather. A typical panel will give out 19 volts.

2. Is the NDS controller suitable to charge Lithium batteries? It's quite a basic controller. I upgraded mine to a Victron Bluetooth which is much easier to change settings and monitor what's going on.

3. Generally it is simpler to connect the output of the controller direct to the battery rather than go through the EBL.

4. What solar panel/wattage do you have?

 

[yorkiebar]

The controller seems fairly capable from a quick look at the manual. It has a lithium profile setting (via dip switches), is that profile selected ?

Manual : https://camperstore.es/WebRoot/Stor...y/User_Manual_NDS_SC300M_sun_control_mppt.pdf

 

[ontheroadagain]

We have had three different NDS Suncontrollers in our Adria.
None of them appeared to work correctly.
Over charging, under charging or not charging at all.
Changed to a Votronic about 15 months ago and have had no problems since.

 

[Richard n Ann]

rarely get current above this

Looks like it's now just on trickle charge and the amperage is OK for that but I'd expect a 100w panel to give at least 5 amps in sunshine when bulk charging.

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[Andy MacD]

A few things here.

1. If you are not getting any voltage through I suggest there is something seriously wrong with your set up - you should get a reasonable voltage even in cloudy weather. A typical panel will give out 19 volts.

2. Is the NDS controller suitable to charge Lithium batteries? It's quite a basic controller. I upgraded mine to a Victron Bluetooth which is much easier to change settings and monitor what's going on.

3. Generally it is simpler to connect the output of the controller direct to the battery rather than go through the EBL.

4. What solar panel/wattage do you have?

Thanks.
1. Normally sits around 14 but will get up to 19v.
2. Dip switches set for lithium.
3. That’s beyond me, I’m more of a play and play person.
4. Either 100 or 120w.

 

[Andy MacD]

Votronic

Which one did you get?

 

[ontheroadagain]

Which one did you get?

Votronic MPP 350 Duo.
I went for a Votronic as it also charges the vehicle battery.

 

[Guigsy]

Does the solar controller think the battery is fully charged? My 175w panel is currently putting nothing into my lithium battery because the battery is full and resting at 13.5v, so the solar has gone to float charge mode.

Probably need to run the battery down a bit and confirm the charger still doesn't put anything in.

 

[VXman]

Thanks.
1. Normally sits around 14 but will get up to 19v.
2. Dip switches set for lithium.
3. That’s beyond me, I’m more of a play and play person.
4. Either 100 or 120w.

3. It's the simplest and most obvious set up. Less possibility of problems. Essentially 2 wires (+ and -) from the controller to + and - of the battery.

4. 120 watt not much for a decent sized lithium battery.

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[Kannon Fodda]

Something very odd there as you should be seeing 5A plus in sunny weather.

As you have a Victron smartshunt get a Victron smartsolar. Should have integral Bluetooth which can speak with the shunt. 75/15 will be more than big enough.

 

[LithiumConvert]

My SunControl is connected direct to the batteries which works well enough, normally.

The problem is that the SunControl firmware crashes from time to time and the unit sits there doing nothing until I reset it by switching off the switch I put in the +ve lead to the panel just for that purpose.

 

[Andy MacD]

Does the solar controller think the battery is fully charged? My 175w panel is currently putting nothing into my lithium battery because the battery is full and resting at 13.5v, so the solar has gone to float charge mode.

Probably need to run the battery down a bit and confirm the charger still doesn't put anything in.

Yeh, but is like that all the time.

 

[Andy MacD]

My SunControl is connected direct to the batteries which works well enough, normally.

The problem is that the SunControl firmware crashes from time to time and the unit sits there doing nothing until I reset it by switching off the switch I put in the +ve lead to the panel just for that purpose.

Yes, I did hear that about them. So it’s the feed from the panel to the Suncontrol you switch off/on?

 

[potwalloper]

I had my 2021 Adria Twin upgraded yesterday by our Funsters 'Offgrid Power Solutions'. New kit was all Victron: 215W panel, 75/15 MPPT, 280AH Fogstar, Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC, Blue Smart IP22 Charger 12/20, and Van Bitz Battery Master.

With the new kit, the Solar output is so much better than the standard 120W panel / NDS controller.

Totally recommend Offgrid Power Solutions, Roger and Nigel are excellent.

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[Andy MacD]

I had my 2021 Adria Twin upgraded yesterday by our Funsters 'Offgrid Power Solutions'. New kit was all Victron: 215W panel, 75/15 MPPT, 280AH Fogstar, Orion XS 12/12-50A DC-DC, Blue Smart IP22 Charger 12/20, and Van Bitz Battery Master.

With the new kit, the Solar output is so much better than the standard 120W panel / NDS controller.

Totally recommend Offgrid Power Solutions, Roger and Nigel are excellent.

Thanks, been in contact with Nigel today about it. Just trying to decide if the upgrade would be worthwhile.

 

[RandallC]

Replaced mine with a viktron. Had look at the sunstroke found broken and dry joints. Very poor quality build

 

[Lenny HB]

Thanks, been in contact with Nigel today about it. Just trying to decide if the upgrade would be worthwhile.

Yes it will not much point in fitting Lithium unless you can take advantage of the fast charge they can take.
Get a decent controller fitted and more solar.
You won't go wrong with Roger & Nigel fitting it.

Revuarding how your system is behaving it looks like the controller is working like it would with a lead battery and not really suitable for Lithium.

Also best to bypass the EBL you lose about 5% connecting through the EBL.

 

[LithiumConvert]

Yes, I did hear that about them. So it’s the feed from the panel to the Suncontrol you switch off/on?

Yes.

The switch is useful to have for a number of reasons.

 

[ontheroadagain]

Yes, I did hear that about them. So it’s the feed from the panel to the Suncontrol you switch off/on?

Another option is to fit an inline fuse. Just pull the fuse to cut the power. To reset the controller you really need to disconnect the power from the battery. Just disconnecting the power from the solar panel won’t reset it. Make sure you connect the battery first when connecting it back up.

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[TheCaller]

1. Normally sits around 14 but will get up to 19v.

If you are seeing 19v on the shunt screen you show in your first post, the controller isn't working. The panel output should reach 19v, but your screenshot shows battery voltage, which should never be above about 14.8v max.

Are you measuring the 19v somewhere else?

 

[Andy MacD]

If you are seeing 19v on the shunt screen you show in your first post, the controller isn't working. The panel output should reach 19v, but your screenshot shows battery voltage, which should never be above about 14.8v max.

Are you measuring the 19v somewhere else?

The 19v is on the controller

 

[Andy MacD]

Another option is to fit an inline fuse. Just pull the fuse to cut the power. To reset the controller you really need to disconnect the power from the battery. Just disconnecting the power from the solar panel won’t reset it. Make sure you connect the battery first when connecting it back up.

Same as unplugging from the EBL then.

 

[TheCaller]

The 19v is on the controller

Phew! That's a relief. I did have a controller fail that way once - fortunately while still under warranty. I don't suppose it did much for the eventual cycle life of the batteries though.

 

[Iantj]

This anecdote lacks key details (sorry).
I had more solar fitted, at the last minute replacing the NDS with a victron, but keeping the wiring the same. I had another victron for the two new panels.
The old panels provided little charge because, with the pre-existing wiring, the battery often showed as charged and the Victron went into absorption or float. The victron for the new panels did not have this problem.
The victron for the older panels was required to not go through <some older gubbins> after which the older panels worked as expected.

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[Richard J]

3. It's the simplest and most obvious set up. Less possibility of problems. Essentially 2 wires (+ and -) from the controller to + and - of the battery.

4. 120 watt not much for a decent sized lithium battery.

Maybe consider connecting the earth to the non battery side of the shunt

 

[LithiumConvert]

To reset the controller you really need to disconnect the power from the battery. Just disconnecting the power from the solar panel won’t reset it.

Depends on the controller. It works on the NDS SunControl which the OP has.

It may well not work with other makes.

 

[ontheroadagain]

Depends on the controller. It works on the NDS SunControl which the OP has

Strange. That didn't work on mine. I always had to disconnect the battery.
Anyway - mine got permanently reset into the dustbin lol.