Slave switch on drivers side to operate passenger electric window.

[Gerry77]

Hymer Exsis 2014 RHD
I want to fit the above so I can open the passenger electric window from the drivers seat. I have a wiring diagram but can’t seem to get it to work so can anyone put me right please? I have found out that two connections are for switch illumination only not window motor control.

 

[Lenny HB]

Would help if you have drawing showing switch contacts, no idea from that drawing which ones are COM/NO/NC.

 

[Gerry77]

Original switch is HYMER original.

 

[Lenny HB]

Still doesn't make sense need an electrical diagram.

 

[Gerry77]

I haven’t got a Hymer wiring diagram I’m afraid.
I managed to get this diagram to work on my old B578 but so far not managed it this time.

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[Lenny HB]

Should be able to work it out using a meter but probably be easier to find it in a Hella catolouge the switch will have a part number on it.

PIA you putting this thread up as my Carthago is a poxy RHD and the window switch on the passenger cab door only works with the ignition on, at least the Hymers work for a couple of minutes after turning the ignition off. Also it's not a one press you have hold the switch the whole time.
More work for me.

 

[Lenny HB]

Found this on Mr Google.

car window switch wiring diagram - Google Search

 

[meanders]

I agree that diagram is close to meaningless. They basically need wiring in parallel though.

There should be two positives on the existing driver side switch: Lets call it D.

• one linked to the ignition I would have thought and that switch the motor. Lets call that DM+
• the other to the lighting circuit for illumination when the dash lighting is on. DL+

There will also be a Connection that only becomes positive when you press the switch down DD, and I assume another when the switch is pressed up DU.
NB: It might be sending + 12v to lift the window and -12v to lower it over a single cable for example. The following does not deal with that situation. In that case, you need to expose the connections on the existing switches and thoroughly test them out with a multimeter to see what is happening when you raise and lower the window and post back..

I am assuming the switch on the passenger side is already in place and lights up. In which case, it will already have the equivalents of DM+ DL+ and a negative meaning these do not need to be provided.
If the new switch is side by side to the one for the drivers mirror you need to connect:

• DM+, DL+ and Negative to the exact same connections on the new switch.
• find or put in cable(s) linking the equivalents of DU and DD on the new switch to the same terminals on the switch in the passenger door.

However if any doubt whatsoever, please consult an auto electrician. Shorting 12v is not a good idea and could create real and very expensive problems elsewhere!