Schaudt Elektroblock EBL 119 battery cut-off switch

[helzie2020]

The instruction manual for our Globecar Roadscout Elegance says "For long periods of inactivity (4 weeks or more), either disconnect the living area battery from the 12 V power supply or recharge it regularly." Since our van is parked on the public road, we have to run a cable from the house and across the pavement, which makes it hard to charge the living area battery, especially when the daylight hours are short.

However, the Schaudt Elektroblock EBL 119 manual says

ATTENTION! ​

Total discharge.
Damage to the leisure area battery:​

Fully charge the living area battery before and after closing down the system. (Connect vehicle to the mains with an 80Ah battery at least 12 hours and with a 160Ah battery at least 24 hours).​

...which suggests that you have to charge the living area battery fully before you turn off the EBL and so we have to charge the battery in any case, rather than just switching off the EBL to conserve the battery charge.

That all seems a bit odd to me. Do you think that there would be a problem if we switched off the EBL, even if we haven't fully recharged the living battery first? (We have two 95Ah AGM leisure batteries)

 

[royandsharont]

I think the advice is to ensure best longevity for your batteries

 

[autorouter]

The reason is to avoid degradation of the battery by sulphation. When a battery discharges, the materials the plates are made of turns into lead sulfate, which is an amorphous gooey substance. This is normal. When it charges, the amorphous lead sulfate turns back into the plate materials. The problem is, if the amorphous lead sulfate is left for along time (more than a week or two) it gradually changes into a hard crystal form which can't be turned back into plate material by the charging process. So the battery permanently loses capacity.

Ideally you should ensure the battery is fully 100% charged every couple of weeks, so that the crystals don't get a chance to harden.

Is it possible to remove the leisure batteries and take them into the house for charging? Some are easy to remove, some are difficult to access, under the driving seat etc.

 

[helzie2020]

The reason is to avoid degradation of the battery by sulphation. When a battery discharges, the materials the plates are made of turns into lead sulfate, which is an amorphous gooey substance. This is normal. When it charges, the amorphous lead sulfate turns back into the plate materials. The problem is, if the amorphous lead sulfate is left for along time (more than a week or two) it gradually changes into a hard crystal form which can't be turned back into plate material by the charging process. So the battery permanently loses capacity.

Ideally you should ensure the battery is fully 100% charged every couple of weeks, so that the crystals don't get a chance to harden.

Is it possible to remove the leisure batteries and take them into the house for charging? Some are easy to remove, some are difficult to access, under the driving seat etc.

That's useful information, thanks.

The two batteries are under the driver's seat and won't be very easy to remove. Not impossible, perhaps, but not something we would want to do regularly — especially as we are in a top-floor flat so would have to lug them from wherever we manage to park and then up 65 steps!

Do you think it would be okay if we used the battery cut-off switch on the EBL to disconnect the leisure batteries as soon as we return from a trip? I would assume that the batteries would be reasonably well charged at that point. And then we could turn the battery cut-off switch back to On when we set out on another trip.

 

[autorouter]

Yes and no. Yes, the battery would probably be OK for a few weeks if you did that. However the battery cutoff switch on the EBL is notoriously unreliable and prone to not switching back on, so best to find another way. There should be a fuse, or maybe two, very near the leisure batteries, and hopefully they are accessible without removing the seat. Usually a big 50A and a small 2A, remove them both.

Another possibility is to fit a battery isolator switch, something like this:

Panel Mount Miniature Battery Isolation Switch - 100A

Miniature panel mount battery isolation / master switch. 100A continuous, 150A intermittent. M6 terminals. Ideal for isolating campervan domestic circuits.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

There are other solutions, this is a frequent topic on here -
solar panels, either installed on the roof or propped up against the windscreen,
battery power pack with inverter, plus a small smart charger,
rubber cable protector ramps to allow mains cable across pavement, etc.

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[Pausim]

I put one of these on the negative terminal of the leisure battery when I had an EBL.
Amazon product ASIN B075CK7W3Z

 

[Lenny HB]

Best solution is to fit a solar panel so the batteries are kept charged.

If you are going to disconnect the batteries fit a seperate battery isolator switch do not use the switch on the EBL they are prone to failure..

 

[EuroTrotters]

Yes and no. Yes, the battery would probably be OK for a few weeks if you did that. However the battery cutoff switch on the EBL is notoriously unreliable and prone to not switching back on, so best to find another way. There should be a fuse, or maybe two, very near the leisure batteries, and hopefully they are accessible without removing the seat. Usually a big 50A and a small 2A, remove them both.

Another possibility is to fit a battery isolator switch, something like this:

Panel Mount Miniature Battery Isolation Switch - 100A

Miniature panel mount battery isolation / master switch. 100A continuous, 150A intermittent. M6 terminals. Ideal for isolating campervan domestic circuits.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

There are other solutions, this is a frequent topic on here -
solar panels, either installed on the roof or propped up against the windscreen,
battery power pack with inverter, plus a small smart charger,
rubber cable protector ramps to allow mains cable across pavement, etc.

That’s what happened to ours

 

[helzie2020]

Oh, good job we haven't used the cut-off switch on the EBL yet!

We do intend to fit a solar panel but that won't happen for a month or so. Also, we did have a solar panel on our last van, which worked well most of the time to keep the battery charged but it struggled in winter in Scotland, even when just parked up, not on a trip.

Those independent battery isolation / disconnect switches look like they might be a way forward, although it would have to be something very easy to install for me, as I'm pretty useless in practical matters. I'll take a look at them.

Thanks for all your time and expertise.

 

[helzie2020]

I put one of these on the negative terminal of the leisure battery when I had an EBL.
Amazon product ASIN B075CK7W3Z

I presume that I would need one of these for each of the two leisure batteries. Is that right?

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[Lenny HB]

I presume that I would need one of these for each of the two leisure batteries. Is that right?

Better to fit an isolator switch, as with your batteries under the seat it will save a lot of swearing & cursing.

 

[helzie2020]

Better to fit an isolator switch, as with your batteries under the seat it will save a lot of swearing & cursing.

I'm sure you are right but I don't think I feel confident to fit a new switch on the dashboard. I wouldn't know where to start!

 

[Lenny HB]

I'm sure you are right but I don't think I feel confident to fit a new switch on the dashboard. I wouldn't know where to start!

You don't fit it on the dash, you fit it next to the batteries or EBL, you can just fix it to the floor.

 

[helzie2020]

You don't fit it on the dash, you fit it next to the batteries or EBL, you can just fix it to the floor.

Ah, okay. Would this do it?

Kohree Master Switch Battery Disconnect Isolator Switch 12V-48V

And would I need two as I have two batteries? Or is there a way to set it up to use one switch for both batteries?

Maybe this:

CZC AUTO 1-2-Both-Off Battery Disconnect Switch 12V 24V 48V

 

[autorouter]

And would I need two as I have two batteries? Or is there a way to set it up to use one switch for both batteries?

No just one will be enough. From one of the battery positives there will be a thick power wire going to the fuse and EBL. There will also be a thin wire with a small fuse. Detach them both from the battery, and connect them to one side of the switch. Then you'll need a new wire, same thickness as the other thick wire, between the switch and the battery positive.

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[icantremember]

Ah, okay. Would this do it?

Kohree Master Switch Battery Disconnect Isolator Switch 12V-48V

And would I need two as I have two batteries? Or is there a way to set it up to use one switch for both batteries?

Maybe this:

CZC AUTO 1-2-Both-Off Battery Disconnect Switch 12V 24V 48V

I fitted a similar one of these 4 position isolation switches on our previous moho .. very useful for checking or replacing individual batteries while keeping the system live.

 

[helzie2020]

I fitted a similar one of these 4 position isolation switches on our previous moho .. very useful for checking or replacing individual batteries while keeping the system live.

Thanks.

 

[helzie2020]

Yes and no. Yes, the battery would probably be OK for a few weeks if you did that. However the battery cutoff switch on the EBL is notoriously unreliable and prone to not switching back on, so best to find another way. There should be a fuse, or maybe two, very near the leisure batteries, and hopefully they are accessible without removing the seat. Usually a big 50A and a small 2A, remove them both.

Another possibility is to fit a battery isolator switch, something like this:

Panel Mount Miniature Battery Isolation Switch - 100A

Miniature panel mount battery isolation / master switch. 100A continuous, 150A intermittent. M6 terminals. Ideal for isolating campervan domestic circuits.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

There are other solutions, this is a frequent topic on here -
solar panels, either installed on the roof or propped up against the windscreen,
battery power pack with inverter, plus a small smart charger,
rubber cable protector ramps to allow mains cable across pavement, etc.

I've been down to the van to have a look at the twin leisure batteries. They are fitted under the driver's seat and the tops of the batteries are almost touching the metal plate under the seat. It looks as if it isn't possible to access the battery electrodes to fit any kind of isolator switch, at least without removing the seat.

However, I can see what look like three fuses (see photo). Could I just remove one or more of these to isolate the two leisure batteries? Do you just pull them out? Is it easy to fit them back afterwards?

Thanks.

 

[Millcourt]

Not sure…… but pull them out and if none of the habitation area lights etc work, you have solved your problem of easily isolating the leisure batteries.

 

[autorouter]

As a guess I'd say the 40A and 2A fuses are for the EBL, for the habitation electrics, including the alternator charging. The 20A one may be for the fridge, or some extra appliances. Removing all three should isolate the battery.

For information, the 2A fuse is for the dedicated battery sensor wire, used by the EBL to measure the battery voltage, avoiding errors due to voltage drop along the thick power wire. If that's not in, the EBL won't turn on.

Is it easy to fit them back afterwards?

Yes, they just slot back in, you have your photo to remind you which fuse goes where.

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