Pilote lithium swap over advice.

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unclestinky

Joined
Nov 21, 2021
Posts
85
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91
Location
Dorset, UK
Funster No
85,531
MH
Pilote V600G
Exp
Since 2020
Hi
I am in the process of installing a Fogstar 280ah lithium and a Voltronic VCC1212-50 b2b in my 2021 Pilote G690D.
I think I’ve got my head around the b2b side of things (for the moment anyway).
The Pilote is fitted with a Idswitch LMP 1218-PWM master power unit ( this has lithium settings). The LMP has a switch to turn off the VCR to allow the b2b to be fitted in parallel.
I am running cable direct from the motor battery to the b2b, including a negative from the motor battery to the hab battery (not sure this is strictly necessary).
I have two questions please.

1. Although not mentioned in any of my instructions can I / should I disconnect the motor battery from the LMP?

2. Should the negative cable between the motor and hab battery go via my Smart shunt?
 
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I just connected mine via the original fittings and changed the power settings to lithium on the android controller. ( 200 ah) works perfectly well, charges up off the solar and alternator no problem at all and the solar keeps it topped up to about 80- -90% when not in use. From 2019 onwards its all ready for lithium just drop in and changed the charge settings job done ( Isolate/turn off before fitting and removing old battery/new battery obs!)
 
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The Coops said:
I just connected mine via the original fittings and changed the power settings to lithium on the android controller. ( 200 ah) works perfectly well, charges up off the solar and alternator no problem at all and the solar keeps it topped up to about 80- -90% when not in use. From 2019 onwards its all ready for lithium just drop in and changed the charge settings job done ( Isolate/turn off before fitting and removing old battery/new battery obs!)
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Am I right to assume your motorhome came with a b2b already fitted?
 
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I have never looked for one but the solar does charge both so I presume there is something fitted ( Its an A Class) It just has what it came with and I was told that the lithium fits straight in and change the charge rates on the android and that was it!
 
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The Coops said:
I have never looked for one but the solar does charge both so I presume there is something fitted ( Its an A Class) It just has what it came with and I was told that the lithium fits straight in and change the charge rates on the android and that was it!
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I think I am one of the unlucky ones, as my habitation battery gets very little charge from the smart alternator whilst travelling.
From what I’ve read in previous posts there are a lot of motorhomes that were supplied without a b2b charger and smart alternators.
When on hook up or solar the hab battery charges fine.

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A good amount of lithium batteries will be a better long term option because you can easily do a few days before returning to a campsite to recharge if solar isn’t working well .
 
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Swifter said:
A good amount of lithium batteries will be a better long term option because you can easily do a few days before returning to a campsite to recharge if solar isn’t working well .
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We stayed in a CL in Chepstow without hook up for a weekend and ran the fitted 110ah gel quite low. I was surprised to see that it had not recovered much by the time we got home to Dorset.
As I prefer the freedom of not having to rely on sites with hook up, I decided to fit a b2b, one thing led to another and I now have lithium to fit as well.
 
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unclestinky said:
We stayed in a CL in Chepstow without hook up for a weekend and ran the fitted 110ah gel quite low. I was surprised to see that it had not recovered much by the time we got home to Dorset.
As I prefer the freedom of not having to rely on sites with hook up, I decided to fit a b2b, one thing led to another and I now have lithium to fit as well.
Click to expand...

If a battery is significantly discharged, it could well take 8 - 10 hrs (possibly more) to get it fully charged.

Ian
 
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unclestinky said:
I’m hoping the b2b will improve the situation.
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It might 🤞 but SLA self limits the charge it’ll accept, particularly for the last 20%.
In contrast, LFP will suck as much as your charge source can deliver.

Ian

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bigtwin said:
It might 🤞 but SLA self limits the charge it’ll accept, particularly for the last 20%.
In contrast, LFP will suck as much as your charge source can deliver.

Ian
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Is that not the point of fitting a b2b with lithium?
 
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Every set up is different, on my camper I have a 120 amp B2B and the inverter / charger is also 120 amp, each of my 3 lithium batteries will accept 50 amps, so fast re-charge when driving or from mains or the built in LPG generat or.

One of the main advantages of lithium batteries as I see it is the ability to deep discharge and fast replenish
 
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eddievanbitz said:
Every set up is different, on my camper I have a 120 amp B2B and the inverter / charger is also 120 amp, each of my 3 lithium batteries will accept 50 amps, so fast re-charge when driving or from mains or the built in LPG generat or.

One of the main advantages of lithium batteries as I see it is the ability to deep discharge and fast replenish
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We are not big users of power while we are away, so I’m fairly confident the set up I am installing will greatly improve things.
Im by no means a sparky, but have read lots of posts on here and think I’m heading in the right direction.
Any thoughts on my OP would be appreciated.

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If your base vehicle has a smart alternator, it would need a B2B charger as standard otherwise your leisure battery will not get much of a charge.
 
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unclestinky said:
2. Should the negative cable between the motor and hab battery go via my Smart shunt?
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Yes. The whole point of the shunt is that absolutely all the amps that flow in or out of the battery flow through the shunt. The battery should be connected to the battery side of the shunt, and everything else, including any chassis earth connection, goes to the load side of the shunt.
 
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unclestinky said:
1. Although not mentioned in any of my instructions can I / should I disconnect the motor battery from the LMP?
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I can't see any good reason to disconnect it. As you say, there is a menu option to disable the split charge relay, which will solve the only potential problem. There may be other functionality like the starter battery voltage sensing and maybe the fridge power while driving, that you will want to retain, and disconnecting the starter battery might disable those functions.
 
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autorouter said:
I can't see any good reason to disconnect it. As you say, there is a menu option to disable the split charge relay, which will solve the only potential problem. There may be other functionality like the starter battery voltage sensing and maybe the fridge power while driving, that you will want to retain, and disconnecting the starter battery might disable those functions.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your response much appreciated.👍
 
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