P reg Ducato won't start . . .

[MarionK]

No it wasn't sensor in my case owen
L' Hobo, it ran ok, ish 250 odd miles on journey home. BUT if you read my original post it cut back under load when Higher revs were called for.
As mine had no service history it was fair to guess fuel starvation, with half an idea as I was driving it. Lower revs drove fine.

When main filter changed and fitted properly, then tank filter cleaned..... Problem solved.

Now there's a thought, maybe mine will get over 50mph after this?

 

[jollyrodger]

Now there's a thought, maybe mine will get over 50mph after this?

You wish

 

[jollyrodger]

Not yet, just checking out a video of someone doing a similar manouvre

I think you'll find, if you lay it over with the float lowest to tank you can gingerly pull the filter upwards against the spring and that will give you enough clearance to get the whole lot out.

Only do YouTube for music and travel vids

 

[MarionK]

The left side is a bit cleaner as I wiped a bit off when I tried getting it out before.

 

[MarionK]

Forgot to say I am not having any luck getting the filter off. I think after 25 years, all spring has gone from the lugs.

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[jollyrodger]

Looks like it needs a good Hose pipe on high and a good shake off and whip it back in

And the little lugs are a bit finicky at the best of times

 

[MarionK]

Ok, all done, back in etc. I'll look out for a fuel pump thingy, as there is still crud in the tank.

Any pointers on restarting now the pipes are definitely full of air? Keep the pedal down or not? etc.

 

[jollyrodger]

Ok, all done, back in etc. I'll look out for a fuel pump thingy, as there is still crud in the tank.

Any pointers on restarting now the pipes are definitely full of air? Keep the pedal down or not? etc.

Should self bleed if you have enough cranking amps in the battery


Or a whiff of easy start

 

[jollyrodger]

When available i bought a couple when £9.99

<Broken link removed>

 

[TheBig1]

Not telling you what to do, I would wait till you have suctioned all the crud from the tank before re-trying, it will rapidly block up again. The oil drain pumps on ebay are not silly expensive and have other uses

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I have a similar pump which can be used to change oil, syphon diesel top up the tank from a 25ltr container of diesel. Sucking dirty diesel out is not a nice clean job without. You can use a fine cloth to strain the diesel and reuse once you add bug killer to the new tank of fuel

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[jockaneezer]

When available i bought a couple when £9.99

<Broken link removed>

I'm on my second one of those pumps now, first one blew an internal fuse (think the rubber impeller had swollen up and jammed, but I freed it off and replaced the fuse) then later on, it started leaking through the shaft gland. I had no hesitation in buying another though, at that price they're almost worth it as a single use item !
My only gripe is I store mine in a cut open 5litre plastic container (helps contain the drips) and the hoses take on a "set" if left coiled up and I've needed to cable tie them to a piece of plastic conduit to get them into the far recesses of fuel tanks.

 

[MarionK]

It's definitely sounding like it wants to start, but not quite getting there. Now I know the origin of the problem, I'd have no qualms about trying easy start, but I haven't got any . . .

I realise that the filter will block again pretty quickly, in fact, I'll check the filter again in a minute, but I don't think there's enough in there to block it this fast.

 

[TheBig1]

When available i bought a couple when £9.99

<Broken link removed>

they are in this week £15

 

[jollyrodger]

I bought 3 at the time John 1 for a mate,also with a boat .handy to do oil change and they work .

The others ,thinking at that price they're bound to be a one use and in the bin. But the 1st one is still going strong ,cleaned out the vanes a couple of times ,but that was me being ambitious and trying to suck out the bilge

 

[MarionK]

Didn't manage to get out to the mh again before it got too dark, so will leave it now, and get a pump and some quick start before trying again.
I am a bit worried that I might have knackered the pump with all the cranking without fuel.

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[MarionK]

Argh, apologies in advance but there's going to be a lot of venting in this post!

Not unreasonably imho, I am a bit pissed at the guy who did my oil changes etc.. To be fair, he did come round to try and figure out why it wasn't starting, but he was adamant about changing the battery, as the cause of the problem, and pooh poohed MY suggestion that maybe there is a basic filter before the main filter, and maybe that's the problem . . .
He is the one that said the oil filter was badly fitted and must have let air into the system, but it wasn't his fault (!) someone must have come round and sabotaged it . . .

Now, unfortunately, the mutual friend that recommended that I enlist his assistance has taken umbrage at the fact that I no longer rate his competence!! She is practically insisting that I get him to fit a new battery, but I am unwilling to part with something that I cannot find fault with, ( I feel sure there must be a way of measuring that the output capability is what it's rated at?, (or not, as he says)), especially as he insists on part-exing it.

Simple alternative (you'd think) would be for me to simply buy another battery, swap them over and (hopefully) prove him wrong. Unfortunately, the earth terminal fixing, is somewhat buggered, and should really be replaced, but that means replacing the whole wire, the other end of which is fixed to an extremely rusty part of the chassis (see earlier post for pic) so not really doable. Although, for testing purposes, I can probably work out a way of linking new terminal fixing to the old, along with all it's wires.



Back to the original problem: it still doesn't start, even tho it turns over decently on the battery and fires a bit, and fires quite a lot on quick start. As per previous post, I think I may have buggered the fuel pump with so much cranking previously with no fuel in the pump. But I am getting out of my depth again. I am inclined to try and systematically bleed/prime the system but the filter is on so tight that I can't get it out, and bleeding the injectors seems to be a two man job, so I'd need to get my friend's help again, (she is the partner of the one that has taken umbrage . . .)

Meh, I guess I get the mechanic around again.

 

[MarionK]

I do like it when I'm vindicated!

Ok so it didn't self bleed, like it's supposed to, but it certainly wasn't lack of oomph from the battery . . .

I got the mechanic around and he successfully bled the system, and it's running nicely now. Needs to be run around to get the very last of the air out, and to empty the tank to simplify getting the last of the crud out, but I can't do that until it's MOT'd, so am booking it in for that with the mechanic on hand in case anything untoward happens on the way. Logically, I'm pretty sure it will be fine, but my anxiety levels are through the roof atm.)

Thank you all for your advice and for holding my hand through this, and thanks especially to jollyrodger for putting me in touch with such an ace mechanic.

 

[TheBig1]

Did you put a dose of anti bug treatment in the tank to kill what is left?

 

[MarionK]

Did you put a dose of anti bug treatment in the tank to kill what is left?

Bought but not yet added; I have yet to clear out all the existing gunk.

Plan is to run til almost empty then clean the tank filter again and 'hoover' any remaining loose gunk out with the oil pump. Fill up and add bug killer. I think . . .
Not sure now, as Istr mention of 'hoovering' after I re-fill :S

 

[TheBig1]

I would hoover up the bits you can see now and treat the fuel left in, before contaminating another tank full. The plan to run it to use up the existing fuel is fraught with the danger of putting you right back where you started with the potential of more blockages

Take the tank filter out and wash with fresh petrol, suck up the clusters of gel that you can see. I guarantee you won't get it all as the tiniest bit can multiply very quickly. My preference would be to evacuate the whole tank and strain the fuel through a piece of cloth. Treat that cleaned fuel and return it to the tank. Give at least a few hours for the active ingredients to work before topping up the tank

Diesel bug is a real pain to get rid of in many cases, and you would best be advised to dose future top ups for the next few months, so it can't build up again

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[Stonemags76]

Just read some of this, & wondered if anyone can help my husband who has just replaced the diesel injector pump on his restored Series 3 lightweight Land Rover? He’s has bled through as far as the actual injectors, & the engine fires with easy start a bit, but refuses to start. He says years ago he would’ve towed it to get the engine turning over quickly, but we can’t do that where we live now. He can only think that air is still in the actual injectors - anyone know how that can be removed? Either that, or he’s put the pump back incorrectly, but he’s double checked that. He does seem to be swearing a lot these last few days….

 

[jockaneezer]

Stonemags76, if he's having to crank the engine over to bleed the pump, disconnect the air filter and place a piece of flat wood/metal over the inlet manifold and crank it then. This stops it drawing in induction air and having to compress that, which removes a lot of load off the starter and allows the engine to turn over faster/longer.

 

[TheBig1]

Is he getting full pressure on the injector lines? sometimes they can be fuel starved for no obvious reason. With a partial filter blockage he will see diesel at and after the pump, but not enough to fire. On a friend's series landrover we ended up replacing the fuel lines after a few days of swearing. That cured the issue and we surmised that the old lines were part blocked. Temperamental things landrovers when they start getting on in years

 

[L' Hobo]

Stonemags76, if he's having to crank the engine over to bleed the pump, disconnect the air filter and place a piece of flat wood/metal over the inlet manifold and crank it then. This stops it drawing in induction air and having to compress that, which removes a lot of load off the starter and allows the engine to turn over faster/longer.

Never heard of that one before! if he has cracked the pipes near the injectors and it's pressured there, I should start but I do not like the constant use of Easy-Start, once one uses it.............

I would try and get a slave from another running vehicle to give the starter a bit more umph, presuming of course all the filters have been renewed?

 

[MarionK]

I was going to suggest Stonemags76 start her own thread, but I now declare this thread thoroughly hijacked!

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[Landy Andy]

Is the injector timing correct.

 

[Stonemags76]

Thanks everyone for your help! It started yesterday! He retraced his steps, including dismantling the pump (again!), & after a few more attempts with the double battery situation (don’t ask me..!), I heard it start & the familiar puther of smoke came out of the garage & we both breathed a sigh of relief! It needs fettling, but at least it’s going!

 

[Wildbill]

Ok so you have changed the oil filter that won't stop it starting.
You changed the fuel filter side did your mechanick fill the fillter and then prime the system.
Is the copper washer in good condition that holds the filter on is the O ring ok.
It has a mechanical pump is the diafram on the lift pump ok.
To see if it is a fuile problem south of the hight pressure pump gravity feed it off a temporary tank with a inline filter.
Maybe bleed the injectors and hight pressure pump
Gravity feeding eliminates a few problems then work back
Has the wire com of of the fuile solinode on the hp pump.
Response a say that is I spent a afternoon trying to get the fuile to the hp pump all because of a broken wire
Good luck
Bill

 

[Wildbill]

Sorry just seen your last post dident read right through the thread.
Bill

 

[Mike800966]

Marion K, Great stuff and I'm sure its been a big learning curve!.
That grotty earth connection could cause all sorts of later problems.
Electrically speaking, just cut it off and run a new bond to a solid place as advised, the rust is a different problem!
Glad you seem to be getting there with help from this forum
Wel done all
Mike S

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