P reg Ducato won't start . . .

In one of your posts you mentioned the rac.

I would call them out and see what and how to fix the problem.
kills two birds as they say with one stone. Repair done you know what the problem was and how it was fixed.
and should it reoccur than that would be one of the things to look at.
 
If used with any degree of frequency, an engine will then need it every time to start. That was certainly the case with yacht engines.
I did explain this earlier but what really happens is they use easy start because there is a fault. as it starts on squirt the real cause is never addressed and deteriorates till it wont start on anything and then they blame the easy start you will be hard pushed to find any mechanic who doesnt carry easy start
 
Actually tho, I first heard the 'addicted' line from a professional mechanic. :D I too figured yea 'addicted' is BS, but there's probably good reason for advising against. I asked why? His answer did not impress me tbh. I have seen much more reasoned explanations in this thread alone! Personally I was a bit worried about the possibility of inadequate lubrication causing cylinder damage, like when you try running a diesel engine on petrol, but you can get special 'for diesel' quick start. I'll probably get some eventually, but actually I don't even know where to squirt it, nor do I have anyone who could crank the engine/squirt the stuff for me.
In one of your posts you mentioned the rac.

I would call them out and see what and how to fix the problem.
kills two birds as they say with one stone. Repair done you know what the problem was and how it was fixed.
and should it reoccur than that would be one of the things to look at.
I'm not a member, and I have poor experiences of 'recovery services' in this area.
 
I did explain this earlier but what really happens is they use easy start because there is a fault. as it starts on squirt the real cause is never addressed and deteriorates till it wont start on anything and then they blame the easy start you will be hard pushed to find any mechanic who doesnt carry easy start

You have to go a long way to find a GOOD mechanic that does!

I never have used it in the 50+yrs I've been in the transport game and would quickly get rid of any of my employed mechanics that did!
 
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Actually tho, I first heard the 'addicted' line from a professional mechanic. :D I too figured yea 'addicted' is BS, but there's probably good reason for advising against. I asked why? His answer did not impress me tbh. I have seen much more reasoned explanations in this thread alone! Personally I was a bit worried about the possibility of inadequate lubrication causing cylinder damage, like when you try running a diesel engine on petrol, but you can get special 'for diesel' quick start. I'll probably get some eventually, but actually I don't even know where to squirt it, nor do I have anyone who could crank the engine/squirt the stuff for me.

I'm not a member, and I have poor experiences of 'recovery services' in this area.
Sorry re read the post. The AA. Your post #56
 
sonar No worries, I was generalising. I'm not currently a member of any recovery service, I have bad experiences of AA and Green Flag, at least in this area, elsewhere I have had excellent service from the AA's own people, round here I always got less than satisfactory substitutes. If I do ever join another it will be the RAC.
 
sonar No worries, I was generalising. I'm not currently a member of any recovery service, I have bad experiences of AA and Green Flag, at least in this area, elsewhere I have had excellent service from the AA's own people, round here I always got less than satisfactory substitutes. If I do ever join another it will be the RAC.
It’s about the only solution that I can suggest. Apart from a mobile mechanic. That could cost a lot.

but if you intend to travel breakdown insurance will be worth it even it you don’t use it.
it’s piece of mind knowing that if your in the Do do. You have a way out.
 
Any news on this has it now been resolved …
 
So, fuel is getting to the injectors, but not with any force. Filter is clean, but the mechanic suspects that crud in the tank is blocking the intake, so next step is to check/clean or swap the tank. It's cheaper than replacing the pump, which is the next most likely cause of the problem.
 
One thing not mentioned yet, is diesel bug. The van has been laid up in cold damp weather, so the fuel could be bad and jellied

So, fuel is getting to the injectors, but not with any force. Filter is clean, but the mechanic suspects that crud in the tank is blocking the intake, so next step is to check/clean or swap the tank. It's cheaper than replacing the pump, which is the next most likely cause of the problem.
So Diesel bug is still a likely cause then
 
Maybe, but it's more likely rust flakes, I don't think diesel bug could block the pipe could it? Anyway, dropping the tank out and checking should find it if it's there.
 
Might be worth you checking the fuel cut off solenoid. It can stick and cause a drop in the supply of fuel or fail altogether and stop the fuel getting through. It's a two minute job to remove and take out the plunger as a temporary trial. (Bear in mind if it's faulty and the engine does start you will have to stall the engine to stop it). Its located at the front of the engine just to the right of the fuel pump.
 
If you had diesel bug, I'd have thought there would probably have been signs of it in the filter, hope it's something simple for you ?

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I've just remembered about this photo, the fuel cut off solenoid is the thing with the blue top in the centre of the photo. (Other colours are available)
Screenshot_20220325-133029.png
 
Might be worth you checking the fuel cut off solenoid. It can stick and cause a drop in the supply of fuel or fail altogether and stop the fuel getting through. It's a two minute job to remove and take out the plunger as a temporary trial. (Bear in mind if it's faulty and the engine does start you will have to stall the engine to stop it). Its located at the front of the engine just to the right of the fuel pump.
He checked that. :)
 
If you had diesel bug, I'd have thought there would probably have been signs of it in the filter, hope it's something simple for you ?
It's not done enough miles since replacing the filter for there to be much muck in there even if it does have bug. Thanks, I hope it's the tank.

Whereabouts does bug actually cause problems? If it's at the injectors, then it's not that. The problem is definitely before the injectors. And it's not the filter either.
 
It's not done enough miles since replacing the filter for there to be much muck in there even if it does have bug. Thanks, I hope it's the tank.

Whereabouts does bug actually cause problems? If it's at the injectors, then it's not that. The problem is definitely before the injectors. And it's not the filter either.
If you have access to an air line, why not try blowing back to the tank? OR is there a filter on the tank end of the pipe?
 
It's not done enough miles since replacing the filter for there to be much muck in there even if it does have bug. Thanks, I hope it's the tank.

Whereabouts does bug actually cause problems? If it's at the injectors, then it's not that. The problem is definitely before the injectors. And it's not the filter either.
in the tank, it blocks the strainer on the fuel lift pump that is inside the tank. jollyrodger Mike put up a photo of his earlier in this thread
1648230651119.png

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In the first instance you shouldn't have to drop the tank (but I'm not there sensing it up front)

On the cab floor you should see a D shaped panel in the rubber mat.

There will be two layers and a series of posidrive screws,remove all of them.

You can then see the sender unit plate, which you would have to remove anyway. A series of 8mm nuts to remove with care.

Pop off main fuel line and return pipes (quick fits)

Lift out carefully, angle it to lift out float as well.

On the end of the pick up is a filter (see my previous posts) which never gets touched and is usually the cause.

You can then see down into the tank.

Me I have a cheap lidl fuel/oil transfer pump with a 10 mm pipe on the inlet his will suck up the muck if any.

Diesel bug looks like a black cloud similar to the old lava lamps.

I wouldn't advise blowing back down into the tank with airline as that will send it everywhere.
But each to their own, me I let the tank settle for a day and at the lowest part you will see it if its there..
 
Blowing back would only be a temporary fix in any case.

I'm 90% sure that the tank is cruddy, whether from rust or bug. Even if it's not, checking it out will give me peace of mind. I will (try to) check out the filter in the next few days though.
 
Yuck yuck yuckety YUCK!!! I couldn't actually get the thing out, the float is too big, no idea how it was put in in the first place, but I can see the filter well enough to see that it is thickly covered in gunk, I'm guessing it's bug, it's deffo not rust. I could probably wipe enough off to let fuel through to check that the pump is ok, but the tank surely needs cleaning out (?). I couldn't see much of the bottom of the tank, but what I could see was shiny enough. If that's the lowest point, then the tank is not rusty.

Wondering if I can jiggle the thing out and change it, and then keep treating for bug, would that be enough?
 
Yuck yuck yuckety YUCK!!! I couldn't actually get the thing out, the float is too big, no idea how it was put in in the first place, but I can see the filter well enough to see that it is thickly covered in gunk, I'm guessing it's bug, it's deffo not rust. I could probably wipe enough off to let fuel through to check that the pump is ok, but the tank surely needs cleaning out (?). I couldn't see much of the bottom of the tank, but what I could see was shiny enough. If that's the lowest point, then the tank is not rusty.

Wondering if I can jiggle the thing out and change it, and then keep treating for bug, would that be enough?

It will come out, just takes a bit of jiggering.

The plastic filter has 3-4 little snap on lugs just ease the body of it from the top section, there is a spring in it hich keeps it all in place...wash with warm soapy water (fine mesh) dry and refit.

That is the lowest part of the tank, if its clean your good to go.

The crud/muck on the end will have built up over time, as nobody bothers on a long or major service.

Refit is reverse carful when fitting pipes on again the feed pipe is a bit fiddly, as your probably aware, making sure it is fully fitted.
Good luck
 
in the tank, it blocks the strainer on the fuel lift pump that is inside the tank. jollyrodger Mike put up a photo of his earlier in this thread
View attachment 599333

Re-looking at the picture, while I know its not ideal, to me, there is still 50%+ of strainer that's not blocked so would have expected the vehicle to run, badly perhaps.

Sometimes, failure of a Crankshaft sensor will have similar symptoms of those you describe but if you get a scanner, it will tell you. :unsure:

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Re-looking at the picture, while I know its not ideal, to me, there is still 50%+ of strainer that's not blocked so would have expected the vehicle to run, badly perhaps.

Sometimes, failure of a Crankshaft sensor will have similar symptoms of those you describe but if you get a scanner, it will tell you. :unsure:
That's not my filter, mine is so gunky the only visible bit is the top rim!
 
No it wasn't sensor in my case owen
L' Hobo, it ran ok, ish 250 odd miles on journey home. BUT if you read my original post it cut back under load when Higher revs were called for.
As mine had no service history it was fair to guess fuel starvation, with half an idea as I was driving it. Lower revs drove fine.

When main filter changed and fitted properly, then tank filter cleaned..... Problem solved.
 

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