Orkney and Shetland

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Beltie

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Hi,

We're planning a trip to Orkney and Shetland this spring and summer.

Currently, the planned crossings would be Scrabster - Stromness, Kirkwall - Lerwick, Lerwick - Aberdeen.

Our 'van is 7.69m long and 3.2m high. Are there any issues with the ferries that we should be aware of? How accessible are the inter-island ferries for a 'van of that size?

We would envisage spending three or four weeks on each of the island groups. Is this enough/too much? In 2022 we spent three weeks on the Outer Hebrides, from Barra to Lewis and could easily have spent longer.

I've looked on S4S and there seems to be a reasonable selection of sites and stopovers but again any obsevations would be welcome.

Thanks in advance.
 
Long time since I used those ferries to connect with the Smyril Line's Norrona en route to the Faroes. It was P&O in those days but we often had trouble as the locals had booking priority. I've no knowledge of inter island routes but it may be worth doing a trial booking for the inital trip for the times you want.
 
You won‘t have any problems with the inter-isles ferries in Orkney with your van. You will have to reverse either on embarkation, or disembarkation, though.

Ian

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Beltie said:
Hi,

We're planning a trip to Orkney and Shetland this spring and summer.

Currently, the planned crossings would be Scrabster - Stromness, Kirkwall - Lerwick, Lerwick - Aberdeen.

Our 'van is 7.69m long and 3.2m high. Are there any issues with the ferries that we should be aware of? How accessible are the inter-island ferries for a 'van of that size?

We would envisage spending three or four weeks on each of the island groups. Is this enough/too much? In 2022 we spent three weeks on the Outer Hebrides, from Barra to Lewis and could easily have spent longer.

I've looked on S4S and there seems to be a reasonable selection of sites and stopovers but again any obsevations would be welcome.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
You will have no problems on the inter island ferries. The islands have sheep on most of the islands and they are sent to Aberdeen so are collected in at least 7.5t wagons so your MH will be fine even on the smallest ferry which I think is the Fetlar ferry. We did see a big Concord with a toad on the Shetland ferry and later at a couple of the camp sites.
On your route up you may not need a cabin but coming back from Lerwick to Aberdeen the journey takes either 12 or 14 hours depending on whether it calls in at Kirkwall and a cabin is far better than the seats or pod.
Be aware that you need to book Northlink as far in advance as you can to ensure your trip.
Regards the camp sites on Shetland most are Community Hall parking many with EHU or Marinas with EHU some with Shower blocks, there are a small number of full blown camp sites mainly on Mainland.
If you want to wild camping is not frowned upon but the usual rules apply, don’t block field gates, ask nearest house for permission and be aware on the Western side of the islands the winds can be vicious. No midges and the locals are really friendly. Shopping for food can be spread about with Tescos and big CoOp only in Lerwick with community shops or small CoOps scattered around. Ask away, if I can help I will as we have been going back to Shetland each year since 2013
 
When I went, I used Northlink, they were cheapest a few years ago.
 
Otter Spotter said:
You will have no problems on the inter island ferries. The islands have sheep on most of the islands and they are sent to Aberdeen so are collected in at least 7.5t wagons so your MH will be fine even on the smallest ferry which I think is the Fetlar ferry. We did see a big Concord with a toad on the Shetland ferry and later at a couple of the camp sites.
On your route up you may not need a cabin but coming back from Lerwick to Aberdeen the journey takes either 12 or 14 hours depending on whether it calls in at Kirkwall and a cabin is far better than the seats or pod.
Be aware that you need to book Northlink as far in advance as you can to ensure your trip.
Regards the camp sites on Shetland most are Community Hall parking many with EHU or Marinas with EHU some with Shower blocks, there are a small number of full blown camp sites mainly on Mainland.
If you want to wild camping is not frowned upon but the usual rules apply, don’t block field gates, ask nearest house for permission and be aware on the Western side of the islands the winds can be vicious. No midges and the locals are really friendly. Shopping for food can be spread about with Tescos and big CoOp only in Lerwick with community shops or small CoOps scattered around. Ask away, if I can help I will as we have been going back to Shetland each year since 2013
Click to expand...
Thanks very much for this, very helpful and reassuring re the ferries. Our main interests are remote landscapes and wildlife, so any tips you can offer in that regard would be very helpful.

I'm guessing that Orkney will be busier than Shetland, given cruise ships and direct flights from London.

At the moment, we're planning on maybe three or four weeks on each. How does that sound to you?

I know what you mean about ferry bookings, I've already done a trial booking and cabins - which we'll definitely want - are already pretty scarce.

Thanks again, I may be back!
 
Take the inter island ferry from Toft in the north Mainland to Ulsta in Yell. From there you can then also take the onward ferry from Yell to Unst. Include a wee visit to Shetland Reel distillery up the very top in Unst if you like gin.

I'd advise getting a cabin on the Lerwick - Aberdeen route, especially if you have dog(s). The dog cabins book up very quickly.

Look out for the cake fridges on Shetland.

Oh, and hold on to your van door when you open it or the wind might whip it off. Especially in open places like Sumburgh Head.

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Beltie said:
Thanks very much for this, very helpful and reassuring re the ferries. Our main interests are remote landscapes and wildlife, so any tips you can offer in that regard would be very helpful.

I'm guessing that Orkney will be busier than Shetland, given cruise ships and direct flights from London.

At the moment, we're planning on maybe three or four weeks on each. How does that sound to you?

I know what you mean about ferry bookings, I've already done a trial booking and cabins - which we'll definitely want - are already pretty scarce.

Thanks again, I may be back!
Click to expand...
Many cruise ships visit Lerwick too, there is a list of the ships arrivals via Google stay away from Lerwick if there is a ship due, they take over the largest car park at the harbour and there is a mass exodus of coaches on tours !
 
Hezbez said:
Take the inter island ferry from Toft in the north Mainland to Ulsta in Yell. From there you can then also take the onward ferry from Yell to Unst. Include a wee visit to Shetland Reel distillery up the very top in Unst if you like gin.

I'd advise getting a cabin on the Lerwick - Aberdeen route, especially if you have dog(s). The dog cabins book up very quickly.

Look out for the cake fridges on Shetland.

Oh, and hold on to your van door when you open it or the wind might whip it off. Especially in open places like Sumburgh Head.
Click to expand...
Yes the one constant that I remember about Orkney and Shetland, was the wind. 🤔
 
Hi Beltie - did you make it to Orkney, and if so, any advice / suggestions for those of us planning to do the same in early 2025?

thanks

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Hedgewitch said:
Hi Beltie - did you make it to Orkney, and if so, any advice / suggestions for those of us planning to do the same in early 2025?

thanks
Click to expand...
When I did Orkney and Shetland about 10yrs ago (before the N500) there was no chance of midges because the wind blew constantly on both islands.

Both islands were great with very few people but the ferry from Aberdeen was get fun but expensive, better to use the one/s near John O'Groats, still expensive but less so.

IMPORTANT
When on islands, do not pass stationary School Buses.
It's illegal (or used to be) and the children are used to just walking out from behind the bus, sometimes, without looking!

PS. Because of access restrictions, I was disappointed with Scara Brae.
 
Hedgewitch said:
Hi Beltie - did you make it to Orkney, and if so, any advice / suggestions for those of us planning to do the same in early 2025?

thanks
Click to expand...
We went in May and June this year spending about three weeks on Orkney and four and a bit on Shetland. As per my original post, we travelled Scrabster-Stromness, Kirkwall-Lerwick, Lerwick-Aberdeen, using Northlink Ferries, with whom we were very impressed. It's worth booking early, as space is at a premium. If you can run to it, book a Premium cabin for the return to Aberdeen. This gives you access to the Magnus Lounge where you can have your meals away from the hustle and bustle, and also partake of a couple of free drinks each!

The two island groups are completely different. Orkney is quite verdant, with lots of agriculture, whereas Shetland is much larger, wilder and remote, but, in our view more interesting.

Orkney has a more developed tourist infrastructure with three excellent campsites run by the Orkney Islands Council and a few small private sites. There are also a few semi-authorised parking locations, and plenty of off-grid locations if you're sensible. It's worth doing some of the off islands if you have time. If you can only do one, Hoy is a must, with an excellent stopover with water and waste at Rackwick Bay and a superb walk to the Old Man of Hoy

'Must sees' depend on your interests. There are many archealogical sites, the most famous being Skara Brae. It is, however, quite commercial and we preferred the Broch of Gurness on the other side of the island. Stromness is a lovely small, characterful town, well worth devoting some time to. Of course, the overwhelming attraction has to be the stunning coastal scenery and the abundant birdlife.

The ferry to Lerwick departs at midnight, and loading is 'interesting'. You will have to do a U turn on the vehicle deck, but the crew are excellent and will guide you to the millimetre!

Lerwick is not a pretty town, but it is the commercial hub, and you will undoubtedly spend some time there. The excellent Shetland Museum is well worth visiting. Scalloway, the ancient capital, is a fascinating place and also has a superb museum, much of which is devoted to the wartime story of the 'Shetland Bus' which helped to turn the tide of the war in Norway.

The main attraction of Shetland is, of course, the magnificence of it's scenery and its teeming wildlife. It really does have the feel of 'islands on the edge'.
Our favourite areas were the Westside of Mainland and the Northmavine, as well as the Northern Isles of Yell and Unst which are absolute must sees, particularly the latter. There is tolerated overnight parking with toilets at the ranger centre at Hermaness, from where there is a magnificent walk to the northernmost point of the UK at Muckle Flugga.
The inter-island ferries on Shetland are excellent and extremely good value for money, I believe they are heavily subsidised, and much cheaper than their equivalents on Orkney.

While there are no formal campsites, we made full use of the network of community sites at marinas and community halls. Most have excellent facilities and many are in stunning locations. I would particularly recommend the ones at Skeld on Westside, and Burravoe on Yell. There are loads of opportunities for wild camping, providing that you are respectful of the locals, who in our experience were helpful and welcoming.

As you will have gathered from earlier in this thread, the Shetland guru is Otter Spotter, and the advice he gave me was invaluable.

Rather than take up more bandwidth on here, feel free to send me a PM and I'll be happy to help with anymore information you may want.
 
Beltie said:
We went in May and June this year spending about three weeks on Orkney and four and a bit on Shetland. As per my original post, we travelled Scrabster-Stromness, Kirkwall-Lerwick, Lerwick-Aberdeen, using Northlink Ferries, with whom we were very impressed. It's worth booking early, as space is at a premium. If you can run to it, book a Premium cabin for the return to Aberdeen. This gives you access to the Magnus Lounge where you can have your meals away from the hustle and bustle, and also partake of a couple of free drinks each!

The two island groups are completely different. Orkney is quite verdant, with lots of agriculture, whereas Shetland is much larger, wilder and remote, but, in our view more interesting.

Orkney has a more developed tourist infrastructure with three excellent campsites run by the Orkney Islands Council and a few small private sites. There are also a few semi-authorised parking locations, and plenty of off-grid locations if you're sensible. It's worth doing some of the off islands if you have time. If you can only do one, Hoy is a must, with an excellent stopover with water and waste at Rackwick Bay and a superb walk to the Old Man of Hoy

'Must sees' depend on your interests. There are many archealogical sites, the most famous being Skara Brae. It is, however, quite commercial and we preferred the Broch of Gurness on the other side of the island. Stromness is a lovely small, characterful town, well worth devoting some time to. Of course, the overwhelming attraction has to be the stunning coastal scenery and the abundant birdlife.

The ferry to Lerwick departs at midnight, and loading is 'interesting'. You will have to do a U turn on the vehicle deck, but the crew are excellent and will guide you to the millimetre!

Lerwick is not a pretty town, but it is the commercial hub, and you will undoubtedly spend some time there. The excellent Shetland Museum is well worth visiting. Scalloway, the ancient capital, is a fascinating place and also has a superb museum, much of which is devoted to the wartime story of the 'Shetland Bus' which helped to turn the tide of the war in Norway.

The main attraction of Shetland is, of course, the magnificence of it's scenery and its teeming wildlife. It really does have the feel of 'islands on the edge'.
Our favourite areas were the Westside of Mainland and the Northmavine, as well as the Northern Isles of Yell and Unst which are absolute must sees, particularly the latter. There is tolerated overnight parking with toilets at the ranger centre at Hermaness, from where there is a magnificent walk to the northernmost point of the UK at Muckle Flugga.
The inter-island ferries on Shetland are excellent and extremely good value for money, I believe they are heavily subsidised, and much cheaper than their equivalents on Orkney.

While there are no formal campsites, we made full use of the network of community sites at marinas and community halls. Most have excellent facilities and many are in stunning locations. I would particularly recommend the ones at Skeld on Westside, and Burravoe on Yell. There are loads of opportunities for wild camping, providing that you are respectful of the locals, who in our experience were helpful and welcoming.

As you will have gathered from earlier in this thread, the Shetland guru is Otter Spotter, and the advice he gave me was invaluable.

Rather than take up more bandwidth on here, feel free to send me a PM and I'll be happy to help with anymore information you may want.
Click to expand...
Very helpful indeed for future trips we intend to do. 👍

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Sorry if I’m digressing on this thread but we’re planning our first trip to Orkney in June and I’ve found this thread extremely useful. One thing I’d welcome some guidance on relates to the size of van details when booking on Northlink Ferries. When disclosing the length, is this van only or does it include the rear carrier bike rack?
 
Ingwe said:
Sorry if I’m digressing on this thread but we’re planning our first trip to Orkney in June and I’ve found this thread extremely useful. One thing I’d welcome some guidance on relates to the size of van details when booking on Northlink Ferries. When disclosing the length, is this van only or does it include the rear carrier bike rack?
Click to expand...
Can't give you a definitive answer about Northlink but most Ferries it's overall length not body size.
This makes sense when during busy periods they are trying to fit in as many as possible? 🤔
 
Ingwe said:
Sorry if I’m digressing on this thread but we’re planning our first trip to Orkney in June and I’ve found this thread extremely useful. One thing I’d welcome some guidance on relates to the size of van details when booking on Northlink Ferries. When disclosing the length, is this van only or does it include the rear carrier bike rack?
Click to expand...
It's usually overall length including any 'sticky out bits'.

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