Offside rear lights not working

[The_Kraken]

Afternoon all,

Just checking round our Autotrail Cheyenne 696g SE (2004 Ducato) and discovered that the offside rear lights aren't working. The nearside rear's are fine, indicators on all four corners are fine and the brake lights are ok on both sides. The headlights are also ok.

So, checked all the fuses - all ok
Found the nearside fuse and pulled that out to check for a fused circuit - sure enough, the nearside rear's went out.
The offside is right next to it....and the fuse is good.

Ran a multimeter across the fuse and got 0 reading - got a reading off the nearside fuse next to it.

Ran the multimeter across the light fitting on the nearside - got a reading just fine, the offside was reading 0.

Have checked all bulbs. No signs of corrosion.

Is there a relay? surely there wouldn't be one just for rear side lights (seperated anyway?)

I'm hoping someone might have a quick 'they are well known for this....' fix? before I have to start locating wires and checking back etc.

I can't think of anything maintenance wise I have done over winter that would've caused this?

I think that's all the info I can give you. I hope someone can help?

 

[pappajohn]

LIGHTS ?

More than one each side ?

What do you mean by 'ran a meter across the fuse' ? Do you mean on an Ohm scale

 

[davejen]

You say there was no corrosion, but did you check the bulb lights up? and not blown? just a thought.
Cheers, Dave

 

[pappajohn]

Ran a multimeter across the fuse and got 0 reading

If the fuse was removed and checked using the Ohms scale you should have got a reading of at least 1......continuity.
0 is open circuit...blown.

 

[The_Kraken]

LIGHTS ?

More than one each side ?

Sorry. Let me be clearer. I have the main light cluster / lens down low and a high level round light.

What do you mean by 'ran a meter across the fuse' ? Do you mean on an Ohm scale

I took the fuse out and put the probes of the multimeter (DC) onto the metal connectors where the fuse would go. So I tested the circuit and not the fuse. The fuse was intact. The reading was zero whereas there was a reading for the nearside rear lights when I tested that fuse slot (sorry, I don't know the technical name for it)

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[The_Kraken]

You say there was no corrosion, but did you check the bulb lights up? and not blown? just a thought.
Cheers, Dave

Hi Dave,

Yes, I tried the bulb in the nearside light cluster

 

[Freespirit1]

Afternoon all,

Just checking round our Autotrail Cheyenne 696g SE (2004 Ducato) and discovered that the offside rear lights aren't working. The nearside rear's are fine, indicators on all four corners are fine and the brake lights are ok on both sides. The headlights are also ok.

So, checked all the fuses - all ok
Found the nearside fuse and pulled that out to check for a fused circuit - sure enough, the nearside rear's went out.
The offside is right next to it....and the fuse is good.

Ran a multimeter across the fuse and got 0 reading - got a reading off the nearside fuse next to it.

Ran the multimeter across the light fitting on the nearside - got a reading just fine, the offside was reading 0.

Have checked all bulbs. No signs of corrosion.

Is there a relay? surely there wouldn't be one just for rear side lights (seperated anyway?)

I'm hoping someone might have a quick 'they are well known for this....' fix? before I have to start locating wires and checking back etc.

I can't think of anything maintenance wise I have done over winter that would've caused this?

I think that's all the info I can give you. I hope someone can help?

Don’t go out in the dark - you will get booked!!!

 

[tonyidle]

Sorry. Let me be clearer. I have the main light cluster / lens down low and a high level round light.


I took the fuse out and put the probes of the multimeter (DC) onto the metal connectors where the fuse would go. So I tested the circuit and not the fuse. The fuse was intact. The reading was zero whereas there was a reading for the nearside rear lights when I tested that fuse slot (sorry, I don't know the technical name for it)

If you put the meter, set on Volts, across the fuse you have proved that either (1) 12v is not reaching the fuse; or (2) there is nothing connected beyond the fuse to provide an earth for the meter. Try again to check for 12v entering the fuse but this time put the other meter probe on a KNOWN good earth.

 

[Hymie]

underneath the van towards the back there may be a waterproof junction box on each side, which is presumably no longer waterproof,

rusted connector blocks on mine was causing all sorts of odd things to happen, in my case I fitted new heavy duty boxes and new connector blocks, less than a tenner off ebay, still in good nick 4 years later.

Don't forget to take a picture of each wiring setup, mine were a jumble of colours.

Hymie

 

[PP Bear]

Rear autotrail wiring on my 2006 Dakota, so look and expect anything as the workmanship is so shoddy during assembly.

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[Spriddler]

I had similar problem with my 12v fridge power and spent hours checking everything. The removed fuse when tested on a meter showed good but when it was replaced in the fuse box with the fridge switched on and with the engine running (the fridge only works on 12v with the engine running) the current drawn by the fridge caused the fuse to go open circuit (i.e. fail). When removed and tested on the meter it had returned to reading 'good' but every time I refitted it and switched the fridge on it went open circuit. A new fuse sorted it.

 

[The_Kraken]

Rear autotrail wiring on my 2006 Dakota, so look and expect anything as the workmanship is so shoddy during assembly.

Whoa, reassuringly terrible wiring there! Thanks for the info.