Steve and Denise
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View attachment 192596 View attachment 192598 only just picked this up today not even heard it run yet but it has stood for some time so I will need to clean the tank out and give an oil change before I try to start it DBD34 with RRT2 presently fitted with a concentric carb but I do have the tt one.
Any one on here or know anyone that knows about bsa bantams , I have a 1967 one in the shed , had it a while now , frame and everything fine but we took the engine to bits because it was smoking and we just lost interest in putting it back together but would like to get it going.
.....Bantams tend to smoke, after all its the nature of a 2 stroke engine.Any one on here or know anyone that knows about bsa bantams , I have a 1967 one in the shed , had it a while now , frame and everything fine but we took the engine to bits because it was smoking and we just lost interest in putting it back together but would like to get it going.
Probably a D7 3 speed power unit can be had for about £350 -£500 in good running order. have a look on ebay .Any one on here or know anyone that knows about bsa bantams , I have a 1967 one in the shed , had it a while now , frame and everything fine but we took the engine to bits because it was smoking and we just lost interest in putting it back together but would like to get it going.
Stick with the concentric carb, the GP one was a pig to start it with.
Not my experience. Both are also very capable of allowing pebbles into the engine too. (Don't ask me how l know).Yes I had heard a few folk say similar
Yeah I know , had one back in the day but this one just filled the shed with smoke and wasn't running right......Bantams tend to smoke, after all its the nature of a 2 stroke engine.
Worn crankshaft seals allowing the oil from the primary drive to be sucked in?Yeah I know , had one back in the day but this one just filled the shed with smoke and wasn't running right.
That mate is exactly what we thought, got all the new seals and gaskets and every renewable bits and they are all lying in a cardboard box.Worn crankshaft seals allowing the oil from the primary drive to be sucked in?
They are very simple to strip and rebuild. Hardest job will be undoing the cross head screws which hold the crank cases together. You will need a well fitting screwdriver bit and probably an impact wrench.That mate is exactly what we thought, got all the new seals and gaskets and every renewable bits and they are all lying in a cardboard box.
Done that just wants putting back togetherThey are very simple to strip and rebuild. Hardest job will be undoing the cross head screws which hold the crank cases together. You will need a well fitting screwdriver bit and probably an impact wrench.
If there was enough oil in the primary drive case to reach the crank seals I doubt the clutch would work. The first sign of failed crank seals on an old 2T is difficulty starting when hot.Worn crankshaft seals allowing the oil from the primary drive to be sucked in?
We'll have to agree to disagree, although I do agree starting suffers as well. The vacuum caused when the piston rises causes the oil mist to be sucked in through worn seals.If there was enough oil in the primary drive case to reach the crank seals I doubt the clutch would work. The first sign of failed crank seals on an old 2T is difficulty starting when hot.
Beautiful bike ... I'm jealous ... far better than money in any savings account ...
Cliff's well impressed! A 500 Gold Star. Lucky you - my thoughts were - that's had a lot of Salvo Autosol on it .... I hope Denise is going to keep it looking very shiny ... xx