Leisure Battery Issues

[TOAD on Tour]

Hi all, newbie here after picking up our 2007 Hymer B660 SL last week. I am having issues with the Leisure Battery and would appreciate anybody’s advice. Firstly we are really happy with the van, it is in great condition for its year and has lots of service history etc. However upon collecting the van, I did notice the leisure battery charge % on the display panel was around 25% and no solar was feeding the battery either (it has 2 original solar panels on the roof). I drove it home which was around 120 miles and the leisure battery went up to 75%, so I thought all was well. I have since had it on EHU on my drive and as we have been pottering around inside the battery is now down to 8% left even though it is on EHU (EHU is working as we have been using one of the plug sockets etc). I have reset the electric (is it the MCB or something!), the solar is not pulling in any energy still and 1 of the 3 pin electric sockets is not working (not sure if that is connected to these issues). On the display panel, when on hook up the battery is showing between 13.6 - 14.4V and when I disconnect the EHU it drops to around 13.5V (Definitely stays above 13.0V). I am thinking that it must be something to do with the charger as I believe the engine alternator charges the leisure battery when driving, which seems to be working? But when on EHU it does not charge and the solar is not charging either?
Any words of wisdom or advice would be appreciate......finally, I can barely change a lightbulb, so please treat me kindly!!

 

[Pausim]

Do I disconnect the EHU and then switch the EBL off before removing the fuse? Apologies but I admit I am a complete muppet when it comes to anything technical!!!

You could do. Some people say that little on off switch can wear out and cause problems so they avoid using it. I didn’t have problems with it when I had an EBL.

 

[autorouter]

Do I disconnect the EHU and then switch the EBL off before removing the fuse?

The EBL on/off switch is notoriously fragile, it's best not to switch it unless there really is no alternative. Sometimes you have to switch it on and off a dozen times to get it to work properly. If the step works, the switch is OK and the problem is something else. Leave well alone.

 

[Pausim]

Can you take a picture a picture of your EBL and post it on here? It might help giving you pointers.

Is there a plug in the connector block marked BL6?

This link will take you to an English version of the manual. http://hymerclubinternational.co.uk...robloc-ebl101-wiring-diagram-instructions.pdf

 

[TOAD on Tour]

The solar charger is also in the same place as the EBL. I see the fuse for the solar also. I have some spare fuses so will check I have the right ones and change both the solar fuse and the interness ones as see if that does anything!

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[TOAD on Tour]

The solar charger is also in the same place as the EBL. I see the fuse for the solar also. I have some spare fuses so will check I have the right ones and change both the solar fuse and the interness ones as see if that does anything

 

[paddymcc]

The solar controller you have doesn't have a connector to the EBL so the readings on the control panel (DT201?) will be erroneous. This doesn't mean that it isn't working and a voltage reading across the battery terminals is the way to go as mentioned above. Also the controller you have should show a solid green light when the sun is shining if it is working.
Paddy

 

[TOAD on Tour]

So, I have changed the interness fuse and then reconnected the EHU and the % of battery still is not increasing. I also looked at the solar part and found the attached frazzled fuse and terminal!

 

[TOAD on Tour]

Thanks Paddy, that’s helpful, although I think my last post and picture probably is not helping matters.....I think I’ve probably reached my limitations

 

[paddymcc]

Here is a copy of the manual for your solar controller

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...Vaw0a_XFmWSRM7AcMczXM9w7o&cshid=1604837085014

[/URL]

Hope that works - never sure about web links

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[autorouter]

There are two battery outputs from the solar controller (for leisure and starter batteries). For each battery, measure the voltage at the controller output, and the voltage at the battery. They should be the same. If not, there's a bad connection/blown fuse. If it's sunny, the voltage should be over 13.0V. 13.4 to 14.4V is good.

You could measure the voltage at the solar panel input terminals. It might be a bit higher than 20V, so you might need to switch the meter to a higher range to get a proper reading if it shows 'OVERLOAD' on the 20V range. 18V to 26V I expect.

 

[autorouter]

I see the fuse for the solar also.

That fuse (the 15A one marked Solar on the EBL) doesn't do anything. Some controllers can be plugged into the unused 3-way socket on the EBL, and the solar power would then go through that fuse. Your solar controller is wired direct to the battery, as paddymcc says. There should be a fuse at the battery end of the wire from the solar controller to the battery.

Edit: sorry, missed the bit about the frazzled fuse. That looks like your problem with the solar. I don't know why the fuse would blow, except for a wiring fault or a faulty controller. The solar power is not capable of blowing any likely fuse. Maybe the fuse holder is corroded and the resistance is causing heating of the fuse.

 

[paddymcc]

Is the fuse in post 37 the input to the controller to the solar panel? If that's blown (Should be 10A) you could disconnect the controller and the reconnect in the order leisure battery and the solar. You don't need to have the starter battery connected ( can't see from the pics if there is a connector for battery 2? ) as the EBL will trickle charge that anyway.
The reason for doing it in this order is that the controller needs to recognise that the battery is 12v not 24v and to feed it appropriately.

 

[WynandJean]

On the subject of fuses I have changed all mine (car and van) for LED ones. In the event of a fuse blowing it shows as an illuminated LED so stands out VERY clearly. No more pulling out one at a time looking for the right one!

Wyn

 

[TOAD on Tour]

Thanks for all the help and advice...since coming across the frazzled fuse that seems to be something to do with the solar, I am not planning on poking around any further! I will call around tomorrow and see if any workshops are open during this lockdown In the Devon\Cornwall area. On a positive note I have just had a call from the guy I bought the van from (he’s just small business and sells 2/3 vans at a time) and he has said that he is happy to have it back and rectify whatever the issue is. However he is a 2.5hr drive away.....but at least I have that as a back up if I can’t get anything done locally. Also although the control panel is now showing 2% of power left in the battery (but showing 14.3v on the same panel for the battery) everything 12v related is working fine (still on EHU).....

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[JockandRita]

Thanks for all the help and advice...since coming across the frazzled fuse that seems to be something to do with the solar, I am not planning on poking around any further! I will call around tomorrow and see if any workshops are open during this lockdown In the Devon\Cornwall area. On a positive note I have just had a call from the guy I bought the van from (he’s just small business and sells 2/3 vans at a time) and he has said that he is happy to have it back and rectify whatever the issue is. However he is a 2.5hr drive away.....but at least I have that as a back up if I can’t get anything done locally. Also although the control panel is now showing 2% of power left in the battery (but showing 14.3v on the same panel for the battery) everything 12v related is working fine (still on EHU).....

I once had a solar fuse get extremely hot, to the point the casing had started to melt. Unknown to me, too small a fuse had been installed for the number of amps it had to deal with.
I'm not sure what amperage your controller output is, but going by this link, it's either a 10A or a 20A.

If I was you, rather than take it to someone else just yet, I'd look at the rear of the controller for the amperage output figure, remove the frazzled fuse, and if the connections are good and secure, replace that fuse with one of the correct rating for the controller output. Replacing the fuse holder might be prudent too.
At this time of year, there won't be a significant output from the panels, so very little heat will be generated via the fuse.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[Pausim]

Thanks for all the help and advice...since coming across the frazzled fuse that seems to be something to do with the solar, I am not planning on poking around any further! I will call around tomorrow and see if any workshops are open during this lockdown In the Devon\Cornwall area. On a positive note I have just had a call from the guy I bought the van from (he’s just small business and sells 2/3 vans at a time) and he has said that he is happy to have it back and rectify whatever the issue is. However he is a 2.5hr drive away.....but at least I have that as a back up if I can’t get anything done locally. Also although the control panel is now showing 2% of power left in the battery (but showing 14.3v on the same panel for the battery) everything 12v related is working fine (still on EHU).....

That 14.3V when on EHU means the charger is working and supplying all the 12V circuits. However it doesn’t mean the charge is reaching the leisure battery, the 20A fuse on the EBL is the first place to look but there should be a 50A fuse near the battery.

 

[JockandRita]

That 14.3V when on EHU means the charger is working and supplying all the 12V circuits. However it doesn’t mean the charge is reaching the leisure battery, the 20A fuse on the EBL is the first place to look but there should be a 50A fuse near the battery.

But he did say earlier.......................

On the display panel, when on hook up the battery is showing between 13.6 - 14.4V and when I disconnect the EHU it drops to around 13.5V (Definitely stays above 13.0V).

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[TOAD on Tour]

Thanks Jock, that’s sound advice, unfortunately half the fuse has stayed in its holder as it has melted to it! Well I have 3-4 weeks to try and get it resolved, as we would like to test the van out for a weekend before Xmas and then we are booked in at Old Oaks, Glastonbury for New Year....

 

[JockandRita]

Thanks Jock, that’s sound advice, unfortunately half the fuse has stayed in its holder as it has melted to it!

Hence my suggestion of replacing the fuse holder, which is easy peasy to fit.

Cheers,

Jock.

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[autorouter]

Also although the control panel is now showing 2% of power left in the battery (but showing 14.3v on the same panel for the battery) everything 12v related is working fine (still on EHU).....

The amps measurement into and out of the battery goes though a measuring device inside the EBL. The solar controller bypasses that, so will not be accounted for. You will find that the Amps and % readings are therefore inaccurate, but the voltage display should be OK.

 

[TOAD on Tour]

Jock! That’s the Bobby dazzler.....where do you find that?

 

[TOAD on Tour]

thanks Autorouter, so I should I ignore what the panel is saying regarding the solar reading when I get the solar back up and running? Strange how the % on the leisure battery increases when driving though, or is that because it is direct from the engine in to the battery?

 

[Pausim]

You could buy a plug and feed the solar power through the EBL, it should then register on the panel, The engine charging goes via the EBL and therefore registers on the panel.

 

[TOAD on Tour]

Thanks, i am still confused as to why the % goes down when on EHU

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[TOAD on Tour]

Jock - I found those fuse connectors on Amazon, just ordered a couple

 

[Pausim]

Thanks, i am still confused as to why the % goes down when on EHU

The shunt within the EBL is the last thing on the + line out to the battery. The accuracy of the reading is dependant on there being no other connections to the battery. However one of your earlier pictures showed several connections going directly to the + post on the battery and none of these will register on the shunt, which is what the display is reading. I would trace all those battery connections back and see what they are connected to.

 

[Pausim]

If you want your solar input to register on the panel you need one of these to connect your regulator to the EBL.

Buy SCHAUDT 934118 EBL-Kabel Battery cable | Conrad Electronic

Top %brandid% Selection | Order easily now: SCHAUDT 934118 EBL-Kabel Battery cable | Fast delivery | Reasonable prices

www.conrad.com

 

[TOAD on Tour]

Thanks Pausim, definitely think I need to get somebody with a bit more knowledge than me to investigate further, thanks for all the advice

 

[autorouter]

Thanks, i am still confused as to why the % goes down when on EHU

So am I, the EHU charger output should be going through the EBL measurement device and should be accounted for by the % display.

You can read the amps going in or out on the display. When EHU is connected, if the battery requires charge and there's very little load, you should see amps going into the battery. If you disconnect the EHU and switch on a few loads you should see amps going out of the battery.

The EHU and engine charging should both show up, but as discussed the solar amps won't show up. EHU can be up to 18 amps, and engine charging can be even more, depending on the state of charge of the battery

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[paddymcc]

If you want your solar input to register on the panel you need one of these to connect your regulator to the EBL.

Buy SCHAUDT 934118 EBL-Kabel Battery cable | Conrad Electronic

Top %brandid% Selection | Order easily now: SCHAUDT 934118 EBL-Kabel Battery cable | Fast delivery | Reasonable prices

www.conrad.com

This cable will work with a Schaudt controller LR1218 but I don't think that it does with your controller. I would consider replacing the controller you have with the Schaudt LR1218 (PWM) or LRM1218 (mppt) or Votronic Duo as these are compatible with the EBL . I suspect you originally had a LR 1218 factory fitted as that is what I have (Hymer B525 2006)