Inverter/charger with network compensation !!!

funflair

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I know some funsters will already have one these and understand how it all work but others might be reading through specs and options on a new van and wondering "what the heck is that, and more importantly do I need one ?"

What am I on about ? well it's a unit with inverter and charger combined and sometimes called a "Combi" for obvious reasons, the important bit is what they call "network compensation" or "power backup" they might all be a little bit different and all vans are wired differently but basically what we have with the Buttner (now Dometic) unit is two power circuits, one supplied directly by the mains hook up and another that runs through the inverter, the direct hook up circuit supplies the fridge 240v, Alde heating (and Microwave if I hadn't moved the feed to the second circuit) all this is subject to the maximum current rating of the hook up post. The second circuit runs through the inverter and can be a mix of hook up power or battery power supplied via the inverter, there is a control on the Buttner panel that tells the inverter how much mains power you want it to use and when the batteries should help out.

What does all this mean in practise ? if you are on a low amp hook up say 3A for example you will be forever tripping the post if you try to run a kettle, microwave or hairdryer, if you have a combi inverter/charger you just tell it that there is only 3A available so when you switch on the kettle 8A the charger switches off and the inverter supplies the balance of power from your batteries, when demand falls the inverter stops inverting and the charger switches back on and recharges the batteries.

At the moment we are on a club site and have the heating running on electric and can use close to the 16A limit of the hook up post without tripping, if we then want the microwave or kettle these will till work without tripping as these are on the second or "backed up" circuit we can run another 12A on top of the hook up without any problems (y).

All of the above is based on a 3kw inverter/charger and dependent on having decent batteries that can sustain a continuous draw of over 200A, smaller "combi" units are available and would put less demand on the batteries but ultimately supply less power.
 
Although we hardly ever use EHU I still probably going to fit a Victron Multiplus to the next van as it's not much more expensive than buying all the separate parts which wouldn't have the ability to combine supplies.
Also I like the idea of a 120 amp charger so if I did have low batteries an hour worth of EHU on an Aire would give the batteries a good level of charge.
 
We have a Victron 2000a Multiplus which does the same I have wired all of my sockets through it,
which works well and noticed on a low amp EHU the battery does supplement as required and yes you do need to keep an eye on it if staying on EHU for a longer period. It’s a great piece of kit😊
 
We have a Victron 2000a Multiplus which does the same I have wired all of my sockets through it,
which works well and noticed on a low amp EHU the battery does supplement as required and yes you do need to keep an eye on it if staying on EHU for a longer period. It’s a great piece of kit😊
Yes Victron and Mastervolt are big players, Buttner not as common and I have only seen these on Morelo, or maybe I haven't looked hard enough, great piece of kit as you say ;)
 
Nice write up,
Some use a term peak shave, and it works in the same manner as network compensation. You set max W to be taken from grid, and the rest its added from the battery.
Victron calls it power control, you set the amps that comes in, and there is a min limit that differs from model to model. My multiplus min set is 4.5A. All my ehu its trough the inverter pass trough, that way i can control what i draw. Only one emergency socket is wired before the inverter, directly from ehu. That is for when the inv is off or defect, but still can get ehu in the van.

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This is a synchronised inverter. It is designed to synchronise itself to the incoming mains waveform. Once it has synchronised itself, it can boost the power from a low power hookup by adding power from the inverter.

Most inverter installations don't synchronise. It's either/or, you can't have an appliance running from both hookup and inverter at the same time. If you try doing this, the two waveforms will clash, and you could get up to 700V across your appliance.

The most well-known brand for synchronised inverters is Victron, with its Multiplus range, but there are others, including Buttner.
 
Nice write up,
Some use a term peak shave, and it works in the same manner as network compensation. You set max W to be taken from grid, and the rest its added from the battery.
Victron calls it power control, you set the amps that comes in, and there is a min limit that differs from model to model. My multiplus min set is 4.5A. All my ehu its trough the inverter pass trough, that way i can control what i draw. Only one emergency socket is wired before the inverter, directly from ehu. That is for when the inv is off or defect, but still can get ehu in the van.
Thanks (y) never heard the term "peak shave" but makes sense, the Buttner input current will go down to 1A, the emergency socket makes a lot of sense as well but I am pretty sure that our set up supplies the site power directly to the non backed up circuit so will still work if the inverter died.
 
Mastervolt Combis are a well known product and brand in the marine world, we had a couple of boats with their gear and it was very reliable kit. Went with Victron for the van just because it is a more open platform with Bluetooth coms built in, but the functionality is much the same.
 
Although we hardly ever use EHU I still probably going to fit a Victron Multiplus to the next van as it's not much more expensive than buying all the separate parts which wouldn't have the ability to combine supplies.
Also I like the idea of a 120 amp charger so if I did have low batteries an hour worth of EHU on an Aire would give the batteries a good level of charge.
Out of interest how many 230v amps do you need to kick out 120 12v amps?
 

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