Hymer 2003 rusty AlKo chassis? Should I worry?

[Eddiex]

I’ve posted this in the Hymer section as well but thought my post my be seen by others as well in here,

Im looking to buy a Hymer B584 - on a vehicle I’m considering the rear bolt on section of al ko chassis is quite rusty with surface corrosion but not holed. It’s a 2003 model. Is this a major concern or can it be wire brushed and treated and if so how should I go about it?
Just to clarify - most of the pain and galvaning (if that is what it should look like?) has gone and is quit flaky.

 

[Wikky]

On my 2011 Rapido there are extensions from the Alko chassis to the rear of the mh and then the tow bar. The Alko chassis isn't rusty but the steel extensions have surface rust. The extension are heavy gauge steel. I just sprayed them with ACF50. No need to worry unless yoy drive a lot on salted roads or live on the coast.

 

[Eddiex]

On my 2011 Rapido there are extensions from the Alko chassis to the rear of the mh and then the tow bar. The Alko chassis isn't rusty but the steel extensions have surface rust. The extension are heavy gauge steel. I just sprayed them with ACF50. No need to worry unless yoy drive a lot on salted roads or live on the coast.

Ah, I see. That sounds like what I have going on with thMH. The main chassis looks good but the rear does not!

Hopefully, a couple of sunny days laying under the van on my driveway should have it looking good!

I think I was concerned that I might have something a lot more serious to deal with.
Many thanks

 

[Jamesh]

If it's beyond the rear axle I wouldn't worry about it.

Just rust proof and hammerrite / underseal.


Cheers James

 

[Eddiex]

Great - thanks - that’s reassuring!

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[Emmit]

But, the front sub frame (it crosses the van under the engine, ) is prone to rot
I had to change ours last year.
£1200 for the part alone and 4-5hrs work.
It's worthy of close examination on a ramp. It cannot be examined when it's parked.

 

[Eddiex]

But, the front sub frame (it crosses the van under the engine, ) is prone to rot
I had to change ours last year.
£1200 for the part alone and 4-5hrs work.
It's worthy of close examination on a ramp. It cannot be examined when it's parked.

Thanks - I have read about that issue. Your repair was more than I though that fix would be!!

 

[Eddiex]

If it's beyond the rear axle I wouldn't worry about it.

Just rust proof and hammerrite / underseal.


Cheers James

Yes, I was thinking of Hammerite. I've used a product on an old rusty classic years ago called POR15. I seem to recall it came with a rust 'stopper' treatment and then a top coat that seems to dry like rock! I'll have a look at that I think and see if that might be suitable.

 

[Manic]

Thanks - I have read about that issue. Your repair was more than I though that fix would be!!

I wouldn’t think front cross member would an expensive job, this example shows parts not that dear.

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[Emmit]

Thanks - I have read about that issue. Your repair was more than I though that fix would be!!

The thing is, although a new one is £1200 the second hand price is sub £100.
The problem for me was that I couldn't get a Fiat one and no one, but no one could advise whether the equivalent Citroen and Peugeot part was Exactly the same.
Ordinarily, I would have taken a risk but I was under time management pressure because we were running a rally so I chickened out.

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[Emmit]

I wouldn’t think front cross member would an expensive job, this example shows parts not that dear.

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That 'seems' to be the part on the top of the engine bay (above the rad) The part that rots is far more substantial and fits between the wheels under the engine. It's close proximity to the road (and the wet) contributes to its early demise.

 

[Manic]

The thing is, although a new one is £1200 the second hand price is sub £100.
The problem for me was that I couldn't get a Fiat one and no one, but no one could advise whether the equivalent Citroen and Peugeot part was Exactly the same.
Ordinarily, I would have taken a risk but I was under time management pressure because we were running a rally so I chickened out.

This high price could be related to your Hymer being a more modern on and maybe more involved in changing it, these older type look like they would be a diy job ( of course this depends on bolts coming out ok)
This is definitely a bottom one

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[Figaro]

Is there some confusion here between the front sub-frame and the front cross member ?

I think one carries the front suspension and the other the radiator

 

[pappajohn]

You can get cold galvanising spray paint.
Any electrical outlet should have it.
Used by sparkies to galv the ends of galv conduit after threading

 

[Emmit]

For clarity, the one I changed was on a 2005 Fiat x244 2.8 Lt front end that eventually found itself in a 2007 Reg. Hobby 650