How much battery power does an air fryer use

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Had an upgrade by Offgrid Power Solutions last year:
Swapped 80Ah lead acid for 280Ah Lithium
Upped solar from 100w to 275w
Had 1200w inverter fitted
Had B2B fitted

Now checking out some of our ‘gadgets’ to see what they use, so for anyone that wants to know:

900w air fryer
200 degrees for 10 minutes
Used 10Ah of battery 👍

i.e. Battery fully charged was reading 306Ah and after the above test it was reading 286Ah.
So as a rough guide, the air fryer uses 1Ah per minute at 200 degrees.

Hope this is helpful.
 
Doesn't matter how I do it it's still 12.5a
900w ÷ 12v = 75a per hour
75a ÷ 60 minutes = 1.25a per minute × 10 minutes = 12.5a used in 10 minutes
Air fryer on/off cycle it approx 50 % so you need to divide the result by 2.
 
Air fryer on/off cycle it approx 50 % so you need to divide the result by 2.
That doesn’t change the 20ah in 10 minutes though 😏

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If it used 10 Ah in ten minutes, which is one sixth of an hour, then to do that it will have been taking an average of about 60A over the 10 minutes. However, it should be noted that air fryers do not necessarily take power continously as they are thermostatically controlled, so as that is just an average, it might have peaked at higher than 60A.

From my experience with a 1500W air fryer via my inverter, that seems a bit low as I think my shunt showed a drain of about 120A.
 
Hence my preference for ‘road tests’, physical results and no confusion 😉

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My 1400 watt one takes 125 amps when running and it has a 50% duty cycle.
Sounds about the same then, give or take possible differences in inverter efficiency.

I could be wrong, but I would expect the air fryer to take power continously until it reaches its preset temperature, and only cycle thereafter. Mine certainly seems to get up to temperature pretty quickly.
 
I could be wrong, but I would expect the air fryer to take power continously until it reaches its preset temperature, and only cycle thereafter. Mine certainly seems to get up to temperature pretty quickly.
It does but it gets up to temp quick and being such a small area it holds the heat well so on average it's about 50%.
 
It'll be on continuously for a few minutes while it gets to temperature. Then it'll cycle on and off to maintain that temperature. So initial draw will be 900w. Then the average will drop.
 
We just use ours now and try to stop checking every time we use something. I tend to check when we first put the handbrake on for a stopover, then check again at night just before we go to bed. After a while you get to know roughly what you use during a 24 hour period, so can plan accordingly.

Strangely it doesn't matter what we cook with etc as they all tend to use the same amount of power - but I guess theoretically, that SHOULD be the case? Of course food weight, amount etc and whether cooking from frozen etc all add variables, but we're finding it's all in the same ball park, so now, I'm getting to the point where it doesn't matter how much we use for each specific appliance, so long as I know that driving for a couple of hours can put in more than we use during a one day/night park up.
(Until the B2B stopped working of course!)
 
I tried ours out yesterday. It was a George from Asda low wattage model. Cheap but works very well and draws 950 watts when it warms up. The camping kettle uses 845 watts for comparison purposes.
Phil

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Had an upgrade by Offgrid Power Solutions last year:
Swapped 80Ah lead acid for 280Ah Lithium
Upped solar from 100w to 275w
Had 1200w inverter fitted
Had B2B fitted

Now checking out some of our ‘gadgets’ to see what they use, so for anyone that wants to know:

900w air fryer
200 degrees for 10 minutes
Used 10Ah of battery 👍

i.e. Battery fully charged was reading 306Ah and after the above test it was reading 286Ah.
So as a rough guide, the air fryer uses 1Ah per minute at 200 degrees.

Hope this is helpful.
Can I ask how you got 306Ah from your 280Ah battery?
 
Can I ask how you got 306Ah from your 280Ah battery?
If you do a full charge and rundown test, it's pretty common to have more than the rated capacity. I guess it's partly due to variability in cells. And partly because the manufacturer has got to be confident it'll still meet it's sticker rating in a few years when it's got a bit more tired. Or they'd get too many warranty claims.

But it's also possible the shunt or BMS is just wrong.
 

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