Help please.All electrics apart from plugs have gone off.

[Helen Ariel]

Fridge, water pump, lights have switched off but sockets working. 240v feed in is fine. RCDs are all fine, fuses are fine. We discovered this blackened wire under the seat though. What's this called and is it likely to be the issue. Why would it have overheated? Only thing on was the fridge and hot water.

Many thanks from Málaga

 

[Riverbankannie]

That looks like the main 12v fuse to me.

 

[The Wino]

Looks like a blown fuse to me. I'd get it out switch all the 12 v stuff off replace it with one the same rating and switch things on one by one. If it blows again replace it leave the last thing you switched on turned off and get it looked at as soon as possible. I'd also keep an eye on whether that wire gets warm!

 

[Guigsy]

That looks like the main 12v fuse to me.

I was thinking the same. But wouldn't the fridge still work?

 

[Riverbankannie]

I was thinking the same. But wouldn't the fridge still work?

No, I think 12v to the control panel.

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[Helen Ariel]

 

[scotjimland]

it's not a blown fuse ..

it's a spade connector block on the 12v supply , it has overheated and stopped conducting and in the process melted the insulation

 

[Helen Ariel]

Ok it's back after hitting the 12v button on the control panel but we obviously have some sort of problem we need to get looked at so if anyone knows what this blackened part is so chip in. Many thanks

 

[Helen Ariel]

it's not a blown fuse ..

it's a spade connector block on the 12v supply , it has overheated and stopped conducting and in the process melted the insulation

Many thanks. It's working again now. Will have to find out why it's over heated

 

[scotjimland]

Ok it's back after hitting the 12v button on the control panel but we obviously have some sort of problem we need to get looked at so if anyone knows what this blackened part is so chip in. Many thanks

.. loose connections cause overheating... common with spade tyres

you could use a chocolate block connector

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[Lenny HB]

That looks like the main 12v fuse to me.

That does not look like a fuse, the main fuse will be a 50 amp Mega Blade fuse (a big red thing) by the battery.

The Elektroblock may have shut down due to low battery voltage but should have come back up with the mains on. Yellow wire is often the Fridge in German vans and quite common for them to overheat.

Also no lights on the solar controller are lit so that may have failed, those controllers are not the most reliable.

You need to get a meter first check the battery voltage if that is OK check the fuses by the battery there should be a 50 amp Mega fuse this is the main supply fuse and there should be a standard 2 amp blade fuse beside it, if this fuse has gone the EBL won't turn on.
Check the fuses with a meter a visual check is not reliable.

EDIT:
Too late.

 

[MisterB]

as the others have said, it looks like a poor connection is the problem, the spade connector has for some reason, worked its way loose or perhaps it was always loose and has now got to the stage that its noticeable.

thats why i like WAGO connectors.......

 

[Jimbohorlicks]

Just clean up the spade connections with an emery board or similar. So there is good contact. . Maybe you has some condensation under the seat or its worked loose , more so if its a swivel seat.
Just another comment re the solar controller , its a strange place to have one.

 

[Landy Andy]

View attachment 865626

That is just a spade joiner.

Double version of this.

RS PRO Clear Insulated Male to Male Spade Connector, Adapter, 6.35 x 6.35mm Tab Size | RS

uk.rs-online.com

it is just a double male connector to join to female wire end connectors together. You can replace it as is but check tightness of connections, just join wires together (solder/crimp/wago), or swap one wire end to male and use the other female end. Obviously one connection wasn’t tight enough, as it caused arcing hence the blackness

 

[Helen Ariel]

Yes, I’ve never been happy where JC Leisure fitted the solar controller. It also wasn’t the spec, MPPT, that was supposed to be fitted.
The less said about JC Leisure the better tbf…
Anyway thanks for the help. Fuses all ok, I took the spade connector apart and refitted it. All working now but I’ll keep an eye on it. I also attached the solar controller to a different part of the seat base.

Cheers again, Paul

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[Lenny HB]

View attachment 865626

You trying to confuse me looked like yellow wires in the first post

Not sure what's going on there was only Annie's post when I replied now loads of posts before mine.

For now just squash the female connectors with a pair of pliers so they are a tight fit.

 

[Landy Andy]

Yes, I’ve never been happy where JC Leisure fitted the solar controller. It also wasn’t the spec, MPPT, that was supposed to be fitted.
The less said about JC Leisure the better tbf…
Anyway thanks for the help. Fuses all ok, I took the spade connector apart and refitted it. All working now but I’ll keep an eye on it. I also attached the solar controller to a different part of the seat base.

Cheers again, Paul

If just reusing all the old connections give the two females a light squeeze with pliers or similar to make sure they are a tight fit onto the male parts.

 

[Lenny HB]

Yes, I’ve never been happy where JC Leisure fitted the solar controller. It also wasn’t the spec, MPPT, that was supposed to be fitted.

That is a PWM controller and not very reliable I have come across one charging at a too higher voltage and another that was drawing current from the battery rather than charging it. I expect JC charged you £100 for it you can buy them for £20.

 

[Helen Ariel]

That is a PWM controller and not very reliable I have come across one charging at a too higher voltage and another that was drawing current from the battery rather than charging it. I expect JC charged you £100 for it you can buy them for £20.

Got them to fit solar as part of the deal but it was supposed to be an MPPT controller…

 

[Gizmouk]

You trying to confuse me looked like yellow wires in the first post

Not sure what's going on there was only Annie's post when I replied now loads of posts before mine.

For now just squash the female connectors with a pair of pliers so they are a tight fit.

An engineered solution that's good for a few more years

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[MisterB]

just give the two females a light squeeze to make sure they are a tight fit onto the male parts.

but ask their permission first .......

 

[scotzsue]

Wondering why the block has 40 stamped on it

 

[Lenny HB]

Wondering why the block has 40 stamped on it

Max current 40 amp but I wouldn't put 40 amps through it.

My full air suspension had a standard 40 amp blade fuse. That melted last year on a trip, now replaced with a Maxi fuse.

 

[Landy Andy]

Wondering why the block has 40 stamped on it

It doesn’t.

It has WECO 404 2 on it

Weco 404 Insulated Tab Terminal Strip 2 Connector - Goodspeed Motoring

Currently unavailable - Despite my best efforts, Weco is out of raw materials and will not produce these items any longer.The Weco 404 insulated quick-connect tab connector can connect up to four 6.3 mm (0.250 inch) receptacles seperated into two 2 connector strips or polls The tab face in the...

goodspeedmotoring.com

 

[Lenny HB]

It doesn’t.

It has WECO 404 2 on it

Weco 404 Insulated Tab Terminal Strip 2 Connector - Goodspeed Motoring

Currently unavailable - Despite my best efforts, Weco is out of raw materials and will not produce these items any longer.The Weco 404 insulated quick-connect tab connector can connect up to four 6.3 mm (0.250 inch) receptacles seperated into two 2 connector strips or polls The tab face in the...

goodspeedmotoring.com

Ok I was wong.

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[RustyRuss]

If the spade connector was a little loose to start with it will arc and heat up and the joint will gradually get looser as the metal heats up, causing more arcing and more heat and eventually a fire. The arcing can get to the point where there is no longer any electrical contact and the connection is broken. If you touch it or it gets jogged by vibrations as the van moves it may briefly re-connect and then it will go through the whole arcing cycle again. As Lenny above said, crimp the female connector shut by applying light pressure with a pair of pliers. Make sure the crimped ends are both still tight and push it all back together. Might be worth wrapping it in self amalgamating tape to ensure a vibration proof joint….

Cheers!

Russ