Help needed please, electric has gone off

[littlechancer]

Chausson Flash 10. Im on a campsite and had a few electric appliances going, when all of a sudden everything went off. I checked the mains switch was on and the inside switch has not tripped. They have checked the bollard and that has power so it must be something inside. I’ve turned everything off and then tried one small thing only but nothing is coming on. Any ideas please in simple terms!

I had the same problem a couple of years ago at Whitby.Warden checked the bollard, switches, fuses etc.When disconnecting to use spare cable found wires loose on the inlet socket.

 

[Ingwe]

Really glad the problem was safely sorted.
Just sharing an experience may also be helpful to others. We were parked at a sight in France using ECU. We put the kettle on (a low wattage kettle) and the MCB tripped. As were on a 10amp supply and nothing else significant was being used, this was a surprise. Anyway, to cut to the point, after trying various sockets and appliances, it turned out that the kettle was faulty. Apparently, faulty kettles are one of the major causes of MCBs tripping and doing what they’re supposed to.

Since replacing the kettle, no issues. Also, although it’s printed on the MCB to ”press monthly” up until our last habitation test this year, it wasn’t something we did. Do now!

 

[Richard n Ann]

Don't think I've ever tested ours I am a rebel.

 

[mushy]

I've got you down as a ' living on the edge type of guy Richard '.

 

[MitchandJenny]

Nice one all you guys.
Always plenty of people with more experience/tech knowledge than you and always willing to help
Worth the annual fee ????
Hmmmm
Let me think

Mitch.

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[Fdhadi]

A lot of people new to motorhomes tend to buy a new cheap electric kettle & toaster.
Cheap electrical items can quite often be of a higher wattage than a more expensive one, but because it’s for the Motorhome we tend to have a mindset of "it’ll do" or "don’t want to pay anymore than we need to" attitude.

Using these items on site quite often leads to something blowing.
When using any electrical item such as a kettle or toaster it’s good practice to just use one at a time.
I even turned off the Alde heating on our previous van because it drew so much electric when using other appliances. This applies more so on foreign sites but I’m sure with the huge increase in cost of electric, UK sites will adopt a similar approach.

 

[Ingwe]

A lot of people new to motorhomes tend to buy a new cheap electric kettle & toaster.
Cheap electrical items can quite often be of a higher wattage than a more expensive one, but because it’s for the Motorhome we tend to have a mindset of "it’ll do" or "don’t want to pay anymore than we need to" attitude.

Using these items on site quite often leads to something blowing.
When using any electrical item such as a kettle or toaster it’s good practice to just use one at a time.
I even turned off the Alde heating on our previous van because it drew so much electric when using other appliances. This applies more so on foreign sites but I’m sure with the huge increase in cost of electric, UK sites will adopt a similar approach.

What you’re saying is true but it is relatively difficult to find low wattage appliances. If you go to camping shops etc, they usually have some, albeit a small range. Looking on-line has been the best solution but expect to pay more than cheap, higher wattage stuff, available in the usual outlets.

 

[Lenny HB]

Really glad the problem was safely sorted.
Just sharing an experience may also be helpful to others. We were parked at a sight in France using ECU. We put the kettle on (a low wattage kettle) and the MCB tripped. As were on a 10amp supply and nothing else significant was being used, this was a surprise. Anyway, to cut to the point, after trying various sockets and appliances, it turned out that the kettle was faulty. Apparently, faulty kettles are one of the major causes of MCBs tripping and doing what they’re supposed to.

Since replacing the kettle, no issues. Also, although it’s printed on the MCB to ”press monthly” up until our last habitation test this year, it wasn’t something we did. Do now!

You are confusing the RCD with the MCB, the MCB is like a fuse and trips on current overload. The RCD is the safety device which trips if there is an inbalance between live & neutral currents.

 

[Ingwe]

You are confusing the RCD with the MCB, the MCB is like a fuse and trips on current overload. The RCD is the safety device which trips if there is an inbalance between live & neutral currents.

I stand corrected.

 

[Wonders]

Good team effort. Reassuring to watch and learn from the fountain of knowledge on this site.
Chris

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[Podney]

Good team effort. Reassuring to watch and learn from the fountain of knowledge on this site.
Chris

Yes,MHF at its best! I’ve just read the thread from start to finish and can even understand some of it,which is unusual for me!

Now,can someone please explain why my kettle doesn’t work unless the gas is turned on?

 

[Ingwe]

Have you tried putting water in it?

 

[Podney]

Have you tried putting water in it?

I tried that but when I turned the tap on in the kitchen,it flushed the loo! Oh,this motorhoming mullarkey is so tricky!

 

[TR5]

Those F & S MCB's and RCD's are chinese units, and not uncommon to fail, as poor quality.
IU think you were confused as to the 'electrician' fitting a 100amp MCB as this would be madness, and
provide no protection to the cabling within the van.
I've never seen a 13Amp one before, either. Usually the van has at least two circuits, both on 10amp MCB's.

 

[faraway]

Below is a photo of the new setup. Does everything appear to be in order? Thanks

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[Bessy765]

Given that most UK sites have a 16 amp supply, should an overload occur the sites breaker will trip. Leaving aside the amount of current the trip can carry it is the sensitive differential that matters in the case of a fault it that is rated at 30 mil amp or 60 mil amp that will provide the required protection in the case of a fault or leak to earth. Ideally the RCD should be replaced as soon as possible with either the same as the original one or a 16 amp 30 mil one

 

[faraway]

Many thanks, will do

 

[125BEER]

Can you remember the last item that was on before the supply tripped,is the supply 16 amp?
Post #106...

 

[autorouter]

Ideally the RCD should be replaced as soon as possible with either the same as the original one or a 16 amp 30 mil one

The original one was 25A max current, with a differential imbalance trip limit of 30mA. See photo in post#48. That was fine. The RCD doesn't do overcurrent protection, that's the MCB's job. The 25A simply means it can be used in circuits up to 25A.

This new RCD has a max current of 80A and an imbalance trip limit of 30mA. It will be fine. It's a bit overspecified, being suitable for a small flat with a main fuse of 63A, but no point in changing it now it's in place.

The 16A MCB will be fine too. It's a proper double-pole type, as required on outdoor wiring. Most sockets outside the UK are wired in 16A circuits, with 16A double-pole breakers. It's one of the reasons why hookup posts are 16A, and the blue plugs and sockets are rated at 16A.

 

[faraway]

The original one was 25A max current, with a differential imbalance trip limit of 30mA. See photo in post#48. That was fine. The RCD doesn't do overcurrent protection, that's the MCB's job. The 25A simply means it can be used in circuits up to 25A.

This new RCD has a max current of 80A and an imbalance trip limit of 30mA. It will be fine. It's a bit overspecified, being suitable for a small flat with a main fuse of 63A, but no point in changing it now it's in place.

The 16A MCB will be fine too. It's a proper double-pole type, as required on outdoor wiring. Most sockets outside the UK are wired in 16A circuits, with 16A double-pole breakers. It's one of the reasons why hookup posts are 16A, and the blue plugs and sockets are rated at 16A.

Thank you. I can have it changed, but as long as it is safe, then of course it is easier to leave in place.

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[scally]

Had to go for a 16 amp, which is now all fitted and everything is working well. Thank you so much to the kind fellow camper on site who did the work for me and to all of the forum members on here for their kind advice, helpfulness and encouragement, much appreciated.

Some of us have learned from your misfortune, glad you got it sorted

 

[faraway]

Some of us have learned from your misfortune, glad you got it sorted

Thank you, the help has been amazing.

 

[TR5]

I concur, whilst an 80A RCD is overkill, it will be fine, as will the 16A MCB. Does just one MCB serve the whole van? I know with Autotrail and others they have two MCB's, so if there were a problem with say a heating element in the onboard heater, this would trip, but leave the 13A sockets live. You could then at least use another form of electric heater, until fixed.

 

[faraway]

Many thanks, much appreciated. There is only one MCB.

 

[Jasz]

I also agree. The 80A RCD is just not having to work near its capacity which is fine, the 30mA is to protect you from dying from an electric shock. You wouldn't want to increase the rating of the MCB which is the equivalent of a fuse and is there to protect your wiring.

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