Gas oven won't ignite after service.

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Fleurette Wincester
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Since Jan 2023
Just had a minor service & hab/gas check, but the gas oven now won't ignite by itself. I don't hear the familiar "tick tick tick" of the ignition spark. We'd used it the night before it went in and it worked just fine.

The gas flows (I can light it with a lighter). The the gas hob all works fine.

Could something have been done during the hab/gas check that would cause this? I'd rather not take it back to the garage just yet as it's inconveniently far away from where I am now, so I'd like to check a few basics first (if only I knew what they were!) to see if it's something simple I can fix.

Any suggestions?
 
Im having same issue , starts and goes out ,, gas bottles full hob, oven all fine , Fridge burner and control module and valve all recently replaced .
 
The 'tick tick tick' is produced by an electrical current of some sort. Could be a battery that's gone flat / been dislodged or it might run off the 12v directly.

I'd change battery / check connections / fuses in the first instance.
 
Im having same issue , starts and goes out ,, gas bottles full hob, oven all fine , Fridge burner and control module and valve all recently replaced .
That could be something different. If your spark ignites the flame but the flame fails to stay lit then it's something to do with your thermocouple.

That's essentially a switch that is activated by the heat of the flame and if the flame goes out it cools down and switches the gas off automatically for you. If the switch fails then the (safe) default is to not allow the gas through after ignition.
 
Just had a minor service & hab/gas check, but the gas oven now won't ignite by itself. I don't hear the familiar "tick tick tick" of the ignition spark. We'd used it the night before it went in and it worked just fine.

The gas flows (I can light it with a lighter). The the gas hob all works fine.

Could something have been done during the hab/gas check that would cause this? I'd rather not take it back to the garage just yet as it's inconveniently far away from where I am now, so I'd like to check a few basics first (if only I knew what they were!) to see if it's something simple I can fix.

Any suggestions?
The igniter , if powered from 12v supply, is probably controlled by one of your panel switches. Make sure all switches are on. People doing hab checks often mess with switches and leave them in different positions, just to confuse you.

Geoff

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This is a good reason for not having these so-called hab checks done.

If things come back not working, what confidence can you have that the rest has come back safe?

Had one done many (many) years ago. Never again.
 
The igniter is powered by the 12v circuit.
I’ve had this not work a couple of times when I’d stopped on-route for a cuppa.
Turning on the panel that controls the pump, lights etc. got it going again for me.
 
Well my fridge burner light up ok runs for 5-10s and the cuts out ,,,,,,,,,, last night it did run for 4 hours but now its back to start and cut out ,, Ignighter module is brand new , Burner is new , Gas valve new ....
 
If yours is like mine the igniter only works with door open, not closed. Are you trying with door open? If yes trying working door back and forward as it must have a switch on it to know if door is open or not, and could be sticking.

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Has someone turned off the isolator? It will be a set of three of four red controls possibly hidden behind a drawer front. Just make sure they are all on. The clicking is the igniter sparking.
 
Has someone turned off the isolator? It will be a set of three of four red controls possibly hidden behind a drawer front. Just make sure they are all on. The clicking is the igniter sparking.
The gas is getting through because OP says it stays lit if he lights it with a lighter. That rules out thermocouple. I would look at the sparker / igniter it may need replacing or even bending/moving a little closer towards the “gas bar” the service guy may have cleaned it and caught it perhaps with a vacuum and not realised he’s moved it -has the wire to igniter been moved ?
 
Apologies I misread it. I thought the hob worked if he used a lighter. Reading it again, you are correct.
 
Probably worth ringing the place that did the service/hab checks and see if they have any ideas what they might have done.
 
If yours is like mine the igniter only works with door open, not closed. Are you trying with door open? If yes trying working door back and forward as it must have a switch on it to know if door is open or not, and could be sticking.
Yeah, door open for mine too. I'll give that a go...

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The gas is getting through because OP says it stays lit if he lights it with a lighter. That rules out thermocouple. I would look at the sparker / igniter it may need replacing or even bending/moving a little closer towards the “gas bar” the service guy may have cleaned it and caught it perhaps with a vacuum and not realised he’s moved it -has the wire to igniter been moved ?
I guess I'll have to take the thing out to check that - well out of my comfort zone :) hey ho, if I must, I must ...
 
Has someone turned off the isolator? It will be a set of three of four red controls possibly hidden behind a drawer front. Just make sure they are all on. The clicking is the igniter sparking.
Everything looks like it's on, and the gas hob works which I assume would be from the same isolator?
 
Thanks everyone, deep down I know I need to pull it out and check the electrics behind it (all fuses that i can find seem ok).

I hate pulling things out that are securely fixed in ...
 
I guess I'll have to take the thing out to check that - well out of my comfort zone :) hey ho, if I must, I must ...
No need to take oven out simply look where the flames come from and usually it’s on one side or middle where the igniter is - it’s that what you need to check - may need moving slightly closer to the gas bar to close the gap -take a pic of it-usually a 2/3 mm gap
Edit sorry my brain is not working hence not proper name gas bar
 
Just had a minor service & hab/gas check, but the gas oven now won't ignite by itself. I don't hear the familiar "tick tick tick" of the ignition spark. We'd used it the night before it went in and it worked just fine.

The gas flows (I can light it with a lighter). The the gas hob all works fine.

Could something have been done during the hab/gas check that would cause this? I'd rather not take it back to the garage just yet as it's inconveniently far away from where I am now, so I'd like to check a few basics first (if only I knew what they were!) to see if it's something simple I can fix.

Any suggestions?
Give your hab checker a call and see if they can help.

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We have a switch marked auxilliary, nothing much works till it is switched on.
 
Right brain now working it’s the burner😁 the ingniter May be covered by a plate to stop crap getting into/onto it you can usually bend this up or it may be held in position by a small screw either way you don’t need to take oven out -you will have to put your head in the gas oven 😁😁😁😁
 

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