Fridge ignition not stopping once lit

[Cush]

Hi All,
Got an issue that I have a theory about but would like to draw on the collectives experience.

I have Dometic rm 6163 in a 2003 van. The type where you hold the Gas knob in to get the gas flowing and release when you hear the whoosh.

Fridge lights well, there is a strong sounding spark but the spark doesn’t stop after ignition. I’m assuming it’s lit at heat come out the flue after the gas knob is released.

After a few minutes, the clicking frequency changes to varying gaps between clicks and back to the early speed.

Could it be a misaligned igniter/ thermo couple or something else?

TIA. Cush

 

[Jimbohorlicks]

The electrode tips may just need cleaning. If they don't "see" the heat they will click on.

 

[Cush]

Now to look for a post on how to get to that part . Thank you

C

 

[Jimbohorlicks]

Now to look for a post on how to get to that part . Thank you

C

Just try to clean the electrode tips and the thermocouple tip.

 

[Cush]

Just try to clean the electrode tips and the thermocouple tip.

I like your use of the word “just”. When you don’t know, you don’t but I’m on the way to finding out how to get it out from the housing and expose it. Tomorrows job. Now is for YouTube!

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[GeoffnDee]

Cush ,If you are looking for information to follow I think your model will be a Dometic RM6361 (not RM6163)

 

[Just smiffy]

If the flame wasn’t touching the thermal couple the flame would go out and the sparking would continue, but if the flame is still lit after a while and it still sparks then my guess is a faulty thermo coupler….

 

[Cush]

Cush ,If you are looking for information to follow I think your model will be a Dometic RM6361 (not RM6163)

You are absolutely right. I even have a photograph of the sticker on the inside
No wonder I can’t find the info I need! I won’t blame the . Note to self. Thanks GnD GeoffnDee

 

[Cush]

If the flame wasn’t touching the thermal couple the flame would go out and the sparking would continue, but if the flame is still lit after a while and it still sparks then my guess is a faulty thermo coupler….

Faulty? rather than just needs a clean? Is this a job best left for a travelling hab-man or diy able?

I bet a shop in Morocco would have it fished in no time!

 

[Manic]

Mine sometimes does that, I just turn flashing switch off, just have to make sure the fridge is still alight.

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[Cush]

Mine sometimes does that, I just turn flashing switch off, just have to make sure the fridge is still alight.

Unfortunately I don’t think mine has that facility without also turning off the grass. It’s sort of auto mystic ignition until the thermocouple turns it off. Think Just smiffy may be on the money.

 

[Cush]

*automatic, but I think I prefer “auto mystic”

 

[Cush]

Found a thread on another forum that had exactly the same problem back in 2008. I’ll give their suggestions a go and let you how I get on

 

[GeoffnDee]

The spark plug/electrode is also the flame sensor and is controlled through the electronic ignition/re-igniter module , you could try checking any connections or earths you can get to.

 

[Cush]

The spark plug/electrode is also the flame sensor and is controlled through the electronic ignition/re-igniter module , you could try checking any connections or earths you can get to.

Thank you. Will do

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[Simonjdcooper]

Now to look for a post on how to get to that part . Thank you

C

You need to undo the outside lower vent. On the right hand side is the burner and ignite and burn sensor. There is likely a acre holding the shielding in place attached to the back of the fridge unit. Undo that lift the chimney shield up a little and undo any other screws holding the heat shield in place. With a bit of carefully wriggling you should have the heat shield out. Then your burn sensor is held in place by a clamp with a philips screw, undo that and give it a clean, make sure you put it back and test it before reassemling all the shields etc. Drop me a message if you want more info.

 

[Clive Beeza]

I like your use of the word “just”. When you don’t know, you don’t but I’m on the way to finding out how to get it out from the housing and expose it. Tomorrows job. Now is for YouTube!

just ask on you tube very helpful videos

 

[thenomad]

Hi All,
Got an issue that I have a theory about but would like to draw on the collectives experience.

I have Dometic rm 6163 in a 2003 van. The type where you hold the Gas knob in to get the gas flowing and release when you hear the whoosh.

Fridge lights well, there is a strong sounding spark but the spark doesn’t stop after ignition. I’m assuming it’s lit at heat come out the flue after the gas knob is released.

After a few minutes, the clicking frequency changes to varying gaps between clicks and back to the early speed.

Could it be a misaligned igniter/ thermo couple or something else?

TIA. Cush

Hi first thing to do is to remove the burner and clean the jet. BE careful not to lose it and when putting it back make sure it's the right way around. If that doesn't work you might need to adjust the thermocouple other than that is probably the control unit may be a bad connection on the control unit they quite often go rusty on the connectors

 

[Cush]

The spark plug/electrode is also the flame sensor and is controlled through the electronic ignition/re-igniter module , you could try checking any connections or earths you can get to.

Been bacZ

You need to undo the outside lower vent. On the right hand side is the burner and ignite and burn sensor. There is likely an acre holding the shielding in place attached to the back of the fridge unit. Undo that lift the chimney shield up a little and undo any other screws holding the heat shield in place. With a bit of carefully wriggling you should have the heat shield out. Then your burn sensor is held in place by a clamp with a philips screw, undo that and give it a clean, make sure you put it back and test it before reassemling all the shields etc. Drop me a message if you want more info.

Thank you both. Went back to the van again today. Ran the fridge. After about 20 minutes the clicking become much less frequent. I guess it got hot enough, maybe it’s moved out of alignment or there’s a problem with conductivity?

There is no way on this green earth I can get access to a screw to remove gubbons without removing said fridge .

I feel I have two options…
1) replace the ignition unit, it’s expensive but cheaper than

2) getting my hab man to pull the fridge forward, check the igniter and give it a good old service. (I couldn’t even get the selector know off to remove the front panel )

I think I’ll get the man in

 

[Just smiffy]

If you’re getting the fridge out to service may as well change the thermocouple, the igniter is obviously working..

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[Cush]

you might need to adjust the thermocouple other than that is probably the control unit may be a bad connection on the control unit they quite often go rusty on the connectors

Thank you. Connections all look nice and shiny. Pull the plug out and it stops too.

 

[Cush]

If you’re getting the fridge out to service may as well change the thermocouple, the igniter is obviously working..

He certainly will be told to do that

 

[Cush]

The spark plug/electrode is also the flame sensor and is controlled through the electronic ignition/re-igniter module , you could try checking any connections or earths you can get to.

GeoffnDee , do you think a faulty green box would let the flame stay lit while keeping the re ignition going?